Enclosed Trailer for RT Questions

I know its been hashed before but I'm looking for an enclosed trailer to haul a RTs behind my motorhome. Questions are as follows:

1. What Size? want a bit extra room so thinking 7x12 Thoughts
2. V nose or square? Reasons?
3. Pay extra to have the etrax sunken in the floor or just get it mounted onto the flooring?
4. What about the low approach angle? any suggestions? I have a bump skid but it doesnt add much to the lack of clearance.
5. Can I do this easily with a single axle? If so, what is the approx tongue weight after loading?
6. Has anyone had to move theirs around after loading with a tongue dolly or just a caster? Is it possible?

I know.. lots of questions.. but I figure someone out there has been there, done that... and trailers are just too expensive to do a trial run .....
Also I live in SE Texas in case you know a good dealer. Dont mind driving a bit to pick up for a good deal.
THANKS everyone.

Looking at a Continental 7 by 12 myself. Did rent a 6 by 10 to haul it when I bought it but it was a tight fit. Had a 66 inch wide ramp so barley fit passed the wires on the tailgate. I heard a radius nose is the best because v-noses have a problem in crosswinds. Also recommended not to have a flat roof so water won’t pool. It is a single axle.

We have a 7x14 Pace trailer that we used to haul the BMW’s. It will hold one Spyder but not two. This is a motorcycle optimized trailer so it sits a bit lower than a standard cargo trailer. The unit has dual wheels and electric brakes (required when the total weight exceeds 2000 pounds, IIRC).

The door has a beaver tail extension so loading angle is ok. There is just enough clearance to drive between the wires on the door. The door opening is no problem after that.

You mention wanting to move the trailer around on the driveway. An enclosed trailer capable of hauling 2000 pounds of cargo will probably be a dual wheel setup (and brakes required by some states). Ain’t no way you are going to move my trailer unless you have a power dolly. I’ve got the trashed manual dolly to prove it. (It collapsed the wheels and no one makes a replacement wheel with a 1 inch axel). You could possibly find an open single axel trailer that is long enough for two spyders, Aluma might have something. An enclosed trailer will throw you into the 2k weight range and dual axels/ebrakes.

just looked at the Aluma 8818 ATV trailer and it is a dual axel with brake combo.

I have a 7 x12 v nose and there is plenty of room . For the clearance I bought a tilt a hidge they work great

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Originally Posted by RedRTS

I know its been hashed before but I'm looking for an enclosed trailer to haul a RTs behind my motorhome. Questions are as follows:

1. What Size? want a bit extra room so thinking 7x12 Thoughts
2. V nose or square? Reasons?
3. Pay extra to have the etrax sunken in the floor or just get it mounted onto the flooring?
4. What about the low approach angle? any suggestions? I have a bump skid but it doesnt add much to the lack of clearance.
5. Can I do this easily with a single axle? If so, what is the approx tongue weight after loading?
6. Has anyone had to move theirs around after loading with a tongue dolly or just a caster? Is it possible?

I know.. lots of questions.. but I figure someone out there has been there, done that... and trailers are just too expensive to do a trial run .....
Also I live in SE Texas in case you know a good dealer. Dont mind driving a bit to pick up for a good deal.
THANKS everyone.

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I have been pondering a similar move. What I was thinking was to haul the Spyder to somewhere, like events, pull it out, then camp inside the trailer. I could create a fold up bed easily, haul cooking gear and food maybe even a portolet. This would save a lot of travel expenses. I have a trailer for the Spyder and camping gear, but I am not keen on the camping in a tent any longer.

i was thinking that a 7 x 14 would work out great but as mentioned you will be dual axle with that. Actually I have found that you can get a 7 x 10 in single axle and that would work out fine, particularly with a walk-in side door toward the front. With the single axle and lower GVWR rating, I can still pull it with my GMC Terrain (<3,500#). Look around at your trailer dealers, they may not have it on the ground but they can get them.

Joe

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Originally Posted by Littleantlers

I have a 7 x12 v nose and there is plenty of room . For the clearance I bought a tilt a hidge they work great

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What is a tilt a hinge?

Joe

I have not trailered my rt as of yet, but I have plenty of years trailering snowmobiles! If your going to haul it behind your RV I don't think a v-nose is really going to give you much other than a little extra storage space, being than close to your rv that will cut the wind for you and go over the top of the trailer. Look to see how the trailer is put together, the roofs on some are put on the frame work first, and the sides are brought up around and sealed over the top, making a hell of a swimming pool up there that will ice up in cooler areas. Another thing I will tell you is that some trailer aren't set up to load or unload with out being hooked to a vehicle, some like the single axle trailers you cannot even walk up the ramp with out jack stands if you don't have some kind of a load over the front side of the wheels. Moving it around loaded, two axle or one, is going to be a tug, good luck, unloaded maybe! They are making some great trailers out there with the torsional spring set up that pull and ride great and have the grease able hubs so keeping your bearings in good shape is a breeze. Good luck you'll find the right fit I am shore.

I’ve a ProLine trailer made by NHtrailer.com and in New Hampshire that has built in floor tracks, not E-track but a more universal aluminum track# and patented eyebolt system. 32” walk through door, interior lights, LED lights outside, jack st@nds etc. it’s an all aluminum trailer that works for me and others. Worth checking out...

ALUMA makes a great aluminum flatbed trailer. They have a model specifically for trikes.

https://www.alumaklm.com/components/..._w270_h148.jpg

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Originally Posted by Spyder 42

We have a 7x14 Pace trailer that we used to haul the BMW’s. It will hold one Spyder but not two. This is a motorcycle optimized trailer so it sits a bit lower than a standard cargo trailer. The unit has dual wheels and electric brakes (required when the total weight exceeds 2000 pounds, IIRC).

The door has a beaver tail extension so loading angle is ok. There is just enough clearance to drive between the wires on the door. The door opening is no problem after that.

You mention wanting to move the trailer around on the driveway. An enclosed trailer capable of hauling 2000 pounds of cargo will probably be a dual wheel setup (and brakes required by some states). Ain’t no way you are going to move my trailer unless you have a power dolly. I’ve got the trashed manual dolly to prove it. (It collapsed the wheels and no one makes a replacement wheel with a 1 inch axel). You could possibly find an open single axel trailer that is long enough for two spyders, Aluma might have something. An enclosed trailer will throw you into the 2k weight range and dual axels/ebrakes.

just looked at the Aluma 8818 ATV trailer and it is a dual axel with brake combo.

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I am only going to carry one spyder... so that's kinda why I was trying to stay with single axle. Single might be easier to move around as well. What kind of power dolly did you go with? I am looking at those as well. Since I dont know what I'm going to be facing when pulling into RV parks, might have to move trailer/spyder to a spot alongside the unit or elsewhere. Did you just add a 12v batt to your trailer for the dolly?

[QUOTE=RedRTS;1343693]I know its been hashed before but I'm looking for an enclosed trailer to haul a RTs behind my motorhome. Questions are as follows:

1. What Size? want a bit extra room so thinking 7x12 Thoughts Sounds good
2. V nose or square? Reasons? I like the rounded
3. Pay extra to have the etrax sunken in the floor or just get it mounted onto the flooring? On mine the floor is low enough
4. What about the low approach angle? any suggestions? I have a bump skid but it doesnt add much to the lack of clearance. Mine has no issues
5. Can I do this easily with a single axle? If so, what is the approx tongue weight after loading? Yes, I thing mine is in the 300 lbs range
6. Has anyone had to move theirs around after loading with a tongue dolly or just a caster? Is it possible? I move and set it up first then load it. But it can be moved loaded

I know.. lots of questions.. but I figure someone out there has been there, done that... and trailers are just too expensive to do a trial run .....

[QUOTE]

I have a Ironhorse enclosed that I tow behind my jeep or motorhome. It is about 6' tall closed and very aerodynamic. It weights 1000 lbs dry so with the bike that would be 2000lbs. I keep a storage tote in the nose that I have basic tools, small floor jack, and other odds and ends in. If you look at the inside photo on the link there is a storage bin that I keep oil, brake fluid, WD40, wax and cleaner in. I keep a 5gal wash bucket in it and when traveling there is plenty of room for prob 4 full size coolers (I only carry one) or tote bins if needed. It cost a little more but I really like it. I got mine used, I am sure if you look around you can find one used also.
Also I live in SE Texas in case you know a good dealer. Dont mind driving a bit to pick up for a good deal. See the links below

https://www.ironhorsetrailers.com/motorcycle-trailers/2-bike-fliptop-motorcycle-trailer/


https://youtu.be/OSJB0_O1hy0



Good luck Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikey

I have not trailered my rt as of yet, but I have plenty of years trailering snowmobiles! If your going to haul it behind your RV I don't think a v-nose is really going to give you much other than a little extra storage space, being than close to your rv that will cut the wind for you and go over the top of the trailer. Look to see how the trailer is put together, the roofs on some are put on the frame work first, and the sides are brought up around and sealed over the top, making a hell of a swimming pool up there that will ice up in cooler areas. Another thing I will tell you is that some trailer aren't set up to load or unload with out being hooked to a vehicle, some like the single axle trailers you cannot even walk up the ramp with out jack stands if you don't have some kind of a load over the front side of the wheels. Moving it around loaded, two axle or one, is going to be a tug, good luck, unloaded maybe! They are making some great trailers out there with the torsional spring set up that pull and ride great and have the grease able hubs so keeping your bearings in good shape is a breeze. Good luck you'll find the right fit I am shore.

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Thanks for all the great info. Especially what to kinda look for. I was figuring on having to have jack stands... as it will be a issue getting it loaded / unloaded without them. Also kinda looking for a power dolly to move it around. With 1 spyder and no other cargo (except helmets and jackets maybe) just having a hard time justifying dealing with the dual axles... but still open to all the good information here... Ya had figured the vnose was gonna do nothing for me but buy just a bit of space. Didn't know if that was really worth it or not. I saw someone with a square 7x12 that had a spyder in it and it really looked perfect.... again THANKS for the info

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Littleantlers

I have a 7 x12 v nose and there is plenty of room . For the clearance I bought a tilt a hidge they work great

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IS yours single axle or dual? If single, is the weight of the spyder pretty evenly distributed so the tongue weight is not real high? With the 12, is there room in the front for the extra bit of storage for a few extras?

TIA

[QUOTE=Zip;1343780][QUOTE=RedRTS;1343693]I know its been hashed before but I'm looking for an enclosed trailer to haul a RTs behind my motorhome. Questions are as follows:

1. What Size? want a bit extra room so thinking 7x12 Thoughts Sounds good
2. V nose or square? Reasons? I like the rounded
3. Pay extra to have the etrax sunken in the floor or just get it mounted onto the flooring? On mine the floor is low enough
4. What about the low approach angle? any suggestions? I have a bump skid but it doesnt add much to the lack of clearance. Mine has no issues
5. Can I do this easily with a single axle? If so, what is the approx tongue weight after loading? Yes, I thing mine is in the 300 lbs range
6. Has anyone had to move theirs around after loading with a tongue dolly or just a caster? Is it possible? I move and set it up first then load it. But it can be moved loaded

I know.. lots of questions.. but I figure someone out there has been there, done that... and trailers are just too expensive to do a trial run .....

Quote:

---

I have a Ironhorse enclosed that I tow behind my jeep or motorhome. It is about 6' tall closed and very aerodynamic. It weights 1000 lbs dry so with the bike that would be 2000lbs. I keep a storage tote in the nose that I have basic tools, small floor jack, and other odds and ends in. If you look at the inside photo on the link there is a storage bin that I keep oil, brake fluid, WD40, wax and cleaner in. I keep a 5gal wash bucket in it and when traveling there is plenty of room for prob 4 full size coolers (I only carry one) or tote bins if needed. It cost a little more but I really like it. I got mine used, I am sure if you look around you can find one used also.
Also I live in SE Texas in case you know a good dealer. Dont mind driving a bit to pick up for a good deal. See the links below

https://www.ironhorsetrailers.com/motorcycle-trailers/2-bike-fliptop-motorcycle-trailer/


https://youtu.be/OSJB0_O1hy0



Good luck Jeff

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Awesome info and answer! That is a bit pricey, but worth considering... especially if I can pick one up used. Yeah... I own a motorhome and a spyder and price is an issue.... lol. Everything for the MH and spyder is expensive! :)
There are three used ones out there now but ones that would work are still proud of them. ... and pretty far off. Makes me thing twice about a standard box trailer though....

An enclosed trailer is the only way to go. I special ordered mine. I also got it for behind a motorhome.
1-8X12 , the extra width is nice for getting around the spyder. At times I wish I went for 8.6X12 as that was the width of the motorhome.
2-Wedge nose. The extra room is great for storage and a cloths rack.
3- Torsion and tandem axles. Sits lower for easy loading and can load and store spyder without using jack stands when not hooked up to motorhome. Also has compartment in floor for spare tire and extra storage.
4- One piece aluminum roof for leak proof.
I can also haul 2 snowmobiles or 2 quads and a 12 foot lund fishing boat that loads itself onto the roof and the motor on its own rack inside.
It has an RV side door and windows plus 2 roof vents with fans plus 12 volt and 120 volt floresent lighting so can also be used for camping. I just
mension this to give you some ideas or thoughts before buying then wish you had of done things different
Roger

I have a 7wide 12 long 7tall Freedom in closed trailer. It dual axle has fold jack stands at back of trailer (5 min to lot down) Had walls and ceiling insulated wired 120 volts lights and a roof ac unit. Thinking of camping when I got to a rally. I ride my Spyder to all the rallies. I've have 2 RT's and now have a F3. I 've had no issues loading any. In fact I store my spyder in it mow even though I have2 barns that I can park it in. That being said if I had it to go over again I would buy a 8 X 14ft just for the extra room. If all you are going to use it for pulling your spyder than a 7 X 12 should suit your needs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RedRTS

I know its been hashed before but I'm looking for an enclosed trailer to haul a RTs behind my motorhome. Questions are as follows:

1. What Size? want a bit extra room so thinking 7x12 Thoughts
2. V nose or square? Reasons?
3. Pay extra to have the etrax sunken in the floor or just get it mounted onto the flooring?
4. What about the low approach angle? any suggestions? I have a bump skid but it doesnt add much to the lack of clearance.
5. Can I do this easily with a single axle? If so, what is the approx tongue weight after loading?
6. Has anyone had to move theirs around after loading with a tongue dolly or just a caster? Is it possible?

I know.. lots of questions.. but I figure someone out there has been there, done that... and trailers are just too expensive to do a trial run .....
Also I live in SE Texas in case you know a good dealer. Dont mind driving a bit to pick up for a good deal.
THANKS everyone.

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Check out Iron Horse trailers. There built for what your looking for. Well worth the investment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Buckeye Bleau

What is a tilt a hinge?

Joe

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It is a hitge that has multiple holes in it with a pin .When you want to unload or load you pull the pin and jack the front of your trailer up to lessen the angle of your ramp. It works great

I just purchased a 7 X12 Wells Cargo trailer with tandem axles and brakes. I installed ramps from pit products and a slider plate that closes off the gap between the ramp and the trailer. I installed t-tracks on floor and walls and purchased some d ring clamps so that I can secure it in place. A six foot wide trailer is not wide enough if the door has cables for closing assist. You would have about an inch clearance on either side.
Don't know what you plan to tow it with, but brakes are a good idea. Tandem will tow smoother. Mine is v-nose. My dry weight is 1800 lbs, add the spyder and you are towing just under 3000 lbs.

I wanted the smallest trailer I could find. I have a Cargomate 6 1/2 x 10 with v-nose and a side door and it works perfectly. Single axle is good for 3500 lbs. total. Weight of trailer 1400 lbs. Spyder 1025 lbs. With about 6-8 inch clearance in the back at the ramp door, the front tires are directly over a steel crossbar. I weighed the hitch weight before leaving for Florida and it was 235 lbs. Out the door price in Elkhart Indiana $2395 and they made it in about 2 weeks. And, with my wife pushing a bit at the back we move it around quite easily with the spyder inside.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RedRTS

I am only going to carry one spyder... so that's kinda why I was trying to stay with single axle. Single might be easier to move around as well. What kind of power dolly did you go with? I am looking at those as well. Since I dont know what I'm going to be facing when pulling into RV parks, might have to move trailer/spyder to a spot alongside the unit or elsewhere. Did you just add a 12v batt to your trailer for the dolly?

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My power dolly is a Ford F-250. ��. At the time power Dollys ran $4k and I was too cheap to put that kind of $$$ into something that I would only use on occasion. I already had the truck so that’s what I use to move it.

FWIW, I did see a manual dolly meant to move heavy trailers. If I can find a link, ill post it.


heres what I saw.

https://www.trailervalet.com/shop/tr...SABEgJ-9fD_BwE

I have a 7x12 haulmark tandem axle with electric brakes.You will find the tandem axle hauls better than a single axle less bouncing on the hitch.Lots of room to load the bike plus it,s a v nose
Bill