Monster Fuel Injection flash

Steve from Monster Fuel Injection flashed my F3 ECU and I have been riding 500 miles with the new set-up. It has been real blast to drive my Spyder now, it is pulling so hard from the start that it is hard to hold the handles. Bike has steady pull from 0-120 mph and the throttle response is much better than before. It has released the beast and I can now feel the 1330 cc motor performing as it should. The bike has become live now and you can feel the change through whole rpm range. I also noticed that bike rides much smoother, especially on the first gear. I would like to thank Steve for the support and the flash. Best upgrade for 350 USD that I have done for my bike. The best thing is that the fuel consumption haven`t changed a bit although I have been driving my F3 really hard.

PS. I noticed that nanny doesn`t kick in when the wheels do some sliding in the corners. Before it used to cut me off right away. I now need to do some improvements to my F3 (buy some better front tires, shocks + Baja Ron sway bar), because I am able to go through corners in much higher speeds than before.

Thanks again Steve for waking up my Spyder!

Allan

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Originally Posted by AllanSpyder

Steve from Monster Fuel Injection flashed my F3 ECU and I have been riding 500 miles with the new set-up. It has been real blast to drive my Spyder now, it is pulling so hard from the start that it is hard to hold the handles. Bike has steady pull from 0-120 mph and the throttle response is much better than before. It has released the beast and I can now feel the 1330 cc motor performing as it should. The bike has become live now and you can feel the change through whole rpm range. I also noticed that bike rides much smoother, especially on the first gear. I would like to thank Steve for the support and the flash. Best upgrade for 350 USD that I have done for my bike. The best thing is that the fuel consumption haven`t changed a bit although I have been driving my F3 really hard.

PS. I noticed that nanny doesn`t kick in when the wheels do some sliding in the corners. Before it used to cut me off right away. I now need to do some improvements to my F3 (buy some better front tires, shocks + Baja Ron sway bar), because I am able to go through corners in much higher speeds than before.

Thanks again Steve for waking up my Spyder!

Allan

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.....Thanks for the report ...... and the " STICKIEST " tires I have used on a Spyder were Toyo Proxes - T 1 R in 185-55 -15's .... you will probably have to SHIM out the wheels from the Hubs for clearance, but it will be worth the effort ................. Mike

Nice to have reviews on these kind of upgrades. Know many are watching to see how it all works out with the other components of the spyders inner workings...:bowdown:

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Originally Posted by AllanSpyder

Steve from Monster Fuel Injection flashed my F3 ECU and I have been riding 500 miles with the new set-up. It has been real blast to drive my Spyder now, it is pulling so hard from the start that it is hard to hold the handles. Bike has steady pull from 0-120 mph and the throttle response is much better than before. It has released the beast and I can now feel the 1330 cc motor performing as it should. The bike has become live now and you can feel the change through whole rpm range. I also noticed that bike rides much smoother, especially on the first gear. I would like to thank Steve for the support and the flash. Best upgrade for 350 USD that I have done for my bike. The best thing is that the fuel consumption haven`t changed a bit although I have been driving my F3 really hard.

PS. I noticed that nanny doesn`t kick in when the wheels do some sliding in the corners. Before it used to cut me off right away. I now need to do some improvements to my F3 (buy some better front tires, shocks + Baja Ron sway bar), because I am able to go through corners in much higher speeds than before.

Thanks again Steve for waking up my Spyder!

Allan

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I've seen some figures on other threads around this topic, but would you mind sharing what you listed on the request form for your setup to achieve this flash? I myself have a 2015 F3-S and am very interested in this process :doorag: Thanks in advance and congrats on the new performance!

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Originally Posted by trobbins27

I've seen some figures on other threads around this topic, but would you mind sharing what you listed on the request form for your setup to achieve this flash? I myself have a 2015 F3-S and am very interested in this process :doorag: Thanks in advance and congrats on the new performance!

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Im also interested. Not sure what to do 1st. Ecu, sway bar, cat delete, rear shock, drag bar or chopped rear fenferfender?

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

.....Thanks for the report ...... and the " STICKIEST " tires I have used on a Spyder were Toyo Proxes - T 1 R in 185-55 -15's .... you will probably have to SHIM out the wheels from the Hubs for clearance, but it will be worth the effort ................. Mike

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Thanks for the advice! I have Toyo Proxes T1R on the back and in dry condition this tire runs great. I agree that 185-55-15 would be good good choice and these Toyo tires is easy to get in Europe.

Allan

I sent my order details to you.

Allan

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Originally Posted by trobbins27

I've seen some figures on other threads around this topic, but would you mind sharing what you listed on the request form for your setup to achieve this flash? I myself have a 2015 F3-S and am very interested in this process :doorag: Thanks in advance and congrats on the new performance!

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Originally Posted by AllanSpyder

I sent my order details to you.

Allan

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Is it a PM? Not seeing it...

I re-send it a minute ago.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trobbins27

Is it a PM? Not seeing it...

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by trobbins27

I've seen some figures on other threads around this topic, but would you mind sharing what you listed on the request form for your setup to achieve this flash? I myself have a 2015 F3-S and am very interested in this process :doorag: Thanks in advance and congrats on the new performance!

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I have made it easy. And just updated flash form to reflect this.

Stage 1 flash. (current only released option)

User choice of stock 8100rpm limiter or 8600 rpm

91+ octane fuel or 100+ octane fuel.

Mapping works for all combinations of complete stock exhaust, cat delete / bypass and / or free flow muffler. You can even change parts around and see what you like about the subtle differences between sound vs torque curve. Personal preference.


Notes about fuel / octane.

Minimum 91 is recommended.

You can use 87 in a pinch. But stay below 1/2 throttle. This can safely get you home or where your going with no ill effects. After 91 is back in - have at it again.

92, 93, 94, 95 octane can all be used. And should increase overall running and power output. Results will vary as fuel quality does. (Rather its ethanol based, crap additives or derived form different regions of Canada, USA or the world) One BIG problem is that expensive premium gas in certain regions can be a slow seller. So if it sits around in tanks for months - its probably no better than 91 (or even 89 or 87) So always buy your premium from a busy station.

In any event,
All the benefits are gotten just from reinstalling ecu and driving with whatever 89+ fuel is in tank. People who spend a lot of time on their bikes and are sensitive to how it runs. Will notice the subtle differences in which fuel "their" bike likes best. Run what it likes. Or run what your pocket like paying for.

100+ is race use and fairly rare. But there are weekend warriors that do and would run straight race gas or oxygenated and just want as much as possible. Sometimes the smell is just nice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AllanSpyder

I re-send it a minute ago.

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Got it, thanks :)

:clap: It's good to see these "Reports From The Saddle" coming in! :2thumbs:
They all seem to be saying the same thing: "Wow!" :D

It's like getting a new Spyder. Best mod so far :yes:

Did you go with the 8,600 rev limit?
If so, what is the power pull like from 8,100 stock to the new red line 8,600?
Can you control wheel spin in 1st gear? Does 2nd gear break loose and free spin as well?
Can you confirm your exhaust configuration?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm dying for some feed back on how the flash performs in an F3.
Dennis

p.s. I told you in a pm that this flash is going to be mind blowing for the RT and F3 owners. I have 2,500 miles on my RT flash and I seldom have a need to go above 6,500 rpm because the pull is so strong starting at 5,000 rpm.

Hi Dennis!

Yes, I decided to go 8600 rpm rev. limit. To be honest, the bike has now some much more power and acceleration that there is actually no need to raise the rev limit. But it is always good to know that you have some buffer when needed :)
The bike is pulling really hard from 5000-8600 rpm and has constant pull. Basically it feels like it wants to go even higher.

On the 1st gear it is really easy to get the rear wheel spinning. But it is also possible to have a quick launch without the spinning, it just needs some practice now because of the increased torque. I have Toyo Proxes T1R tire on the back and it has fairly good grip in dry conditions and won`t spin so easily as Kenda did. You can get the wheel spinning also in 2nd gear (if you want). Before the second gear felt kind of lazy, but know it is just want to go :)

My F3 has a cat. still on and I have Akrapovic Straight Shot silencer. Otherwise it is stock (air filter etc.).

And yes it is true, the bike is pulling now so good that in every day rides there is no need anymore to go above 6000 rpm range.

Allan

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Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi

Did you go with the 8,600 rev limit?
If so, what is the power pull like from 8,100 stock to the new red line 8,600?
Can you control wheel spin in 1st gear? Does 2nd gear break loose and free spin as well?
Can you confirm your exhaust configuration?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm dying for some feed back on how the flash performs in an F3.
Dennis

p.s. I told you in a pm that this flash is going to be mind blowing for the RT and F3 owners. I have 2,500 miles on my RT flash and I seldom have a need to go above 6,500 rpm because the pull is so strong starting at 5,000 rpm.

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Good Afternoon...... Any more feedback on the ECU front? I have been waiting for a rainy week to send mine in. Just not sure where to go, two different people doing it now and would love to just see some more finished results?

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Originally Posted by Sweetwater

Good Afternoon...... Any more feedback on the ECU front? I have been waiting for a rainy week to send mine in. Just not sure where to go, two different people doing it now and would love to just see some more finished results?

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.. ..I have been following both Threads on this topic ..... from what I have read I think the Main difference in the two is the one from Australia doesn't start to show a benefit / change until you reach 8,000 rpm's ..... The one from Canada ( Monster Fuel ) activates when the Throttle is above 60% which can occur well below 8,000 rpm's ..........jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

I have been following both threads as well. I have a few questions maybe someone might know?

1. With a Stage 1 tune (only one currently available), and the availability of changing exhaust, intake, and bypass "after" the tune how is the tune gaining anything other than a conservative tune? Especially if you can add the accessories after the fact.

2. Based on the info sheet for the flash, it looks to me that it is just adjusting the rev limiter and when limp mode, cooling fan, and torque limiting is being adjusted to the riders preference? Maybe I'm missing something?

3. When flashing the ECU, are the A/F ratio's adjusted? And if so, by adding exhaust, air intake, and bypass after, wouldn't the A/F ratios need to be adjusted to gain the best HP/TQ curve?

4. If the HP/TQ curve is adjusted, what is used as a baseline for the available exhaust options out there?

4. Is the "stock" ECU parameters saved, just in case there is an issue and you need to return the ECU back to stock performance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

.. ..I have been following both Threads on this topic ..... from what I have read I think the Main difference in the two is the one from Australia doesn't start to show a benefit / change until you reach 8,000 rpm's ..... The one from Canada ( Monster Fuel ) activates when the Throttle is above 60% which can occur well below 8,000 rpm's ..........jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

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To clarify,

Power is increased at ALL throttle positions off 0%.

Under 60% throttle, fuel mileage is the same. Fuel and timing mapping is the same. Ecu uses o2 sensors.
(If more power is made at xx throttle - user uses a lower throttle opening to maintain same speed. Therefore we can make more power and not burn more fuel. Its just efficiency is increased)

Under 60% throttle, the only way you would know you had more power per throttle position would be to markgrip with something before and after ecu reprogramming. Otherwise, you just turn throttle until you get the desired pull or power output you want. So under 60%, usually goes unnoticed.

Once you go above 60% throttle. At ALL rpm. You notice the power increase. The way a user rides or what they are used to will notice different things or not in the 2000-4000 range. But after 5000, there is such a difference everybody just knows.

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Originally Posted by M109Dreamer

I have been following both threads as well. I have a few questions maybe someone might know?

1. With a Stage 1 tune (only one currently available), and the availability of changing exhaust, intake, and bypass "after" the tune how is the tune gaining anything other than a conservative tune? Especially if you can add the accessories after the fact.

2. Based on the info sheet for the flash, it looks to me that it is just adjusting the rev limiter and when limp mode, cooling fan, and torque limiting is being adjusted to the riders preference? Maybe I'm missing something?

3. When flashing the ECU, are the A/F ratio's adjusted? And if so, by adding exhaust, air intake, and bypass after, wouldn't the A/F ratios need to be adjusted to gain the best HP/TQ curve?

4. If the HP/TQ curve is adjusted, what is used as a baseline for the available exhaust options out there?

4. Is the "stock" ECU parameters saved, just in case there is an issue and you need to return the ECU back to stock performance

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1- No mention of intake change anywhere. Its only exhaust.

1A - In easiest explanation. The Canam Spyder setup uses a closed loop oxygen sensor system. If changing exhaust changes engine efficiency and its mixture, the ecu sets correction % so its back to stoich. The same multiplier is then used elsewhere when in open loop. Thus changing mapping through out the range.

1B - You must understand the way "new school" ecu algorithm's operate. (Or any ecu really) If airflow is change / more air is trapped in a combustion event / cylinder is filled more. Or more power is output. These can be measured by ecu in 4 ways. Air Pressure sensor, speed sensor, oxygen sensor, crank shaft sensor.
A factory tune would go into a protection mode. And pull power when something out of ordinary is seen. When I reprogram ecu, I can make different reactions happen. Like add power, add fuel, etc.

1C - With new school style ecu's now days. Its easy to make mapping multidimensional. In where different changes can be seen and accommodated. Old school ecu's were more basic and more probe to remaps as volumetric efficiency changed. Setups with electronic throttle actually control volumetric efficiency. (they close throttle to maintain what is wanted) so you can add parts and increase air into engine, but throttle will be closed to maintain the same "allowed" air and power output.

Programming an ecu is much much more than just simple fuel and timing changes.

2 - Performance over stock is increased everywhere possible. While retaining smooth drivability, mileage and low throttle emissions. Rev limit is a user option. Cooling fan is not an option on stage 1.

3 - Yes AFR is adjusted. And as reply 1 states, new targets are maintained as exhaust is changed.

3a - Again, no mention of intake change. Or option for it. (An Intake change will need remapped as this would induce changes in reversion between cylinders under all throttle positions. (post throttle body) Which is more indepth than simple scavenging or volumetric efficiencies as with exhaust.

4 - Exhaust can be any combination of stock, cat delete or free flow muffler.

4a - (does not include headpipe change, but that's not available anyway) If you were to install a really really open, loud, megaphone style. Then a fuel tuner would probably be need to be added. Both to ensure wot AFR are in check but also stop throttle chop back fires. I don't think any system is available like this. But if it is, a tuner would be sold with it.

I have now ridden 4000 miles with Monster FI flash and I am happy to say that my Spyder is still one piece and performing good. No problems detected and everything seems working fine :) I am still really happy with flash and hopefully I can test out stage II flash next season. Sadly my season is ended for this year because winter arrived to Northern-Europe and my Spyder is now waiting the Spring 2018 in my garage. Can`t wait to get back on the road with my Spyder :)

Here is one cool vid from the snowmobile riding crew who tested out Spyders in Finland:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIk4JEau4A8

Now I'm trying to convince the wife she needs to have her ECU remapped.....just imagine the look she gave me. Followed buy....if you break it I'm getting a new one....:yikes: