13/16 spark plug socket for lugs?

Since I started removing my lugs on my spyder, I have always used my 3/8 drive snapon deep 13/16 sparkplug socket with the rubber insert. Due to the rubber insert, you get about 3/4 inch of grip since there’s about about 3/8 of rounded nubs on the end of the lugs. My cousin in NC just pulled the trigger on a new spyder on the 23rd. We talked yesterday for a bit on the phone and he was asking about what tools are needed. Gave him a list of the primaries. He’s a Mac guy. He asked why he couldn’t use his deep impact and I explained that there’s no clearance, needed standard chrome 3/8 drive or 1-1/16 external diameter to fit. He has a set of standard chrome deep sockets and both 21 and 13/16 so he’s good to go. I said use the 13/16 better fit. I told him to join this forum but said I’d find out this answer first. When “I” push the sparkplug socket in, the end of the lug pushes into my rubber as I spin out the nut. The rubber in my opinion would stop any marring of the end. I care less about the sides since you can’t see them anyway only the ends. I always impact out but finger tighten in and torque wrench in. If using a standard chrome deep socket, even using ziplock bag over the end wouldn’t that mar up the ends since most deep sockets are only 7/8 deep of hex? Does anyone use standard 13/16 deep socket or only sparkplug?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wmoater

Does anyone use standard 13/16 deep socket or only sparkplug?

---

Yes I do. I now have the metric socket in a six point deepwell to do the job, but the sparkplug socket works just fine.

Does the standard deep well scratch the end of the lugs since the nub is pushed against the transition from hex to index hole for a bolt to slide into on the socket? All my deepwell sockets are only 7/8- a inch deep of hex before the transition.

I found that the 13/16 th's socket was just a Hair tighter .... I use a 1/2 in rachet drive so the sockets are a bit longer. so deep socket isn't necessary ( even tho I have them ) ..... Mike :thumbup:

Fellows! The machine is designed and made in Canada. Maybe a spark plug socket works just fine. But is not the correct tool. Metric tools in Canada.

Been riding over 50 years and wrenching for a living just as long. 13/16 is actually 20.65 mm. and 13/16 actually fits my lugs better than the "required" 21mm. Many of the metric nuts/bolts on our bikes have a standard equivalent that will work. 1/2 will work on 12mm. 9/16 will work on 14mm. I don't make it a habit to do this, but when it's cold, wet, and your on the side of the road you don't refuse help because he only has a set of standard wrenches.

Standard/ metric :popcorn: whatever , definitely want a deep 6 point thin wall either way & or both(good for back up). Impact wrench handy but not necessarily required for torque :thumbup:

One shouldn't need an impact wrench to remove the lug nuts but a torque wrench should be used when tightening them. The spec, 77-83 lbft, wouldn't be in the operator's guide if BRP didn't think it important.

So yesterday I was completely bored. No snow, lots of rain and 42. Not good for any type of riding including the SXS. So Unburied the totally stripped down spyder in the back of the garage. Moved all the mousetraps and all the parts neatly stacked ontop and removed a single lug. I took some really good measurements and here is what I found…………….. I mic’d the head diameter of the lug. Then I grabbed the following sockets 1/2 drive 13/16 snapon deep (chrome flank), 1/2 drive 13/16 snapon deep (industrial black flank), 1/2 drive 13/16 snapon deep (impact thin wall) and 3/8 drive 13/16 snapon deep (flank). I measured mic’d all 4 of them. Sounds dumb but here is my findings. Standard chrome 1/2 drive (chrome flank) allows the lug to slide in the farthest as mike says above. The hex allows for about 7/8 grip and the round ended lugs fits perfect into the round bolt inlet so only the slight hex edges will scratch if pushed against the lug. I slid out the rubber plug from my sparkplug socket and inserted it in the 1/2 drive. The hole diameter is larger on the 1/2 drive so it can’t lock in but would work to prevent all scratching. Once the rubber is slid in it’s identical measurements to sparkplug socket at 3/4 grip. So you loose about 1/8” ability to slide lug in since it hits the rubber. So 1/2 drive chrome flank does grip more than sparkplug and will not scratch much if any at all.

The 1/2 drive industrial fits identical since it’s the same socket EXCEPT since the black finish is rougher, 2 things. It’s very tight sliding the socket into the wheel hole itself. It fits but is very snug. The interior is also black finish so it’s actually tighter around the lug but if impacted out, which I am lazy and do, will probably scratch the ends a bit. So for the tightest fit the industrial is even tighter fit than chrome around lug. The inner circle for the lug hits for sure so it will put a small circle scratch where the hex to head starts if pushed hard. So chrome 1/2 drive is better than 1/2 drive industrial as in no scratches but industrial has tighter tolerance so will scratch the end of lugs.

1/2 drive thin wall impact doesn’t fit at all. It’s a touch thicker than industrial.

3/8 drive chrome deep flank has all the same measurements as 1/2 drive EXCEPT the inner circle is 1/8 smaller so the head of the lug will get a ring like the 1/2 drive industrial. Since it’s smaller the lug can not slide in as far. If the rubber is placed in that it’s identical inside to the sparkplug socket.


So…………..for total clearance and least amount of scratching either use sparkplug with rubber insert socket or for most grip and least scratching 1/2 drive deep chrome. I use a stubby 3/8 rigid 20V Impact for getting into tight places so I never tried any half’s since I knew the impact didn’t fit. I use a 1/2 drive torque wrench so I’ll start tightening with that instead of using an adapter with toque. So now I know I have 2 different drives I can use. Guess what? We got an inch of snow overnight and I’m bored again. Hmmmmm what useless information should I discover today?

Information isn't useless plus you had some fun :2thumbs:

Great info. Thanks to all.

But... CURSED be anyone using an impact to tighten ANY vehicle wheel bolts/nuts. I have many tales about sitting alongside the road or trail using unseemly language to describe the person and lineage of the tire ape that decided that a 3/4 drive impact was the correct tool to fasten the wheels to the vehicle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by budC

Great info. Thanks to all.

But... CURSED be anyone using an impact to tighten ANY vehicle wheel bolts/nuts. I have many tales about sitting alongside the road or trail using unseemly language to describe the person and lineage of the tire ape that decided that a 3/4 drive impact was the correct tool to fasten the wheels to the vehicle.

---

Impact guns work great as long as you use a torque stick. But you must use the stick for sure. Been using one on aluminum wheels for years.

When I first tried to remove the wheels, they were torqued so tightly from the factory that I had to use an impact to get the lug nuts off. There's no reason why those things should be on THAT tight. I think the robots on the BRP assembly line need to have their wrenches calibrated ....