Now I'm in trouble - 2014 RTL rear brake re-assembly - any helpful ideas?

My bad :banghead::banghead: :banghead: :banghead: - only problem is - how to get out of it? And the Spyder is out of commission until I do! :banghead: :yikes:

Apparently, I was not involved enough over the last few months to notice my rear brake pads were way up on their lifespan. Fronts are OK, with probably half of their life still waiting. I have routinely recorded data like this over the years we've been riding and thought I was "probably OK" until we finished our much-needed vacation trip of approx 2000 miles a few weeks ago. I didn't check the rears when we got back, but did the fronts, which came in with 4/32 good pad depth. Today I decided it was past time to address the rear pad status, and I found there was "0" brake pad left on 1 shoe. Note thst I had NO indication of a possible issue while riding.

OK, now I have actually disassembled the system for the rear wheel and found "0" lining on the inner pad and "min" on the outer pad. In addition, I can NOT turn the piston in with needle nose or one old scanner I have, at all (at least not while holding it myself or also with a helper.) The only thing keeping the caliper attached right now is the brake line. I hesitate to disconnect that and try things using my vise and .....?

ANY help at all with "what might work" or something like that would be appreciated.

Brake Cleaner & Blow off with air compressor, maybe wiggle spanner back & forth in process. Good luck

It is likely that you've exceeded the thread depth on the piston adjuster. If this is the case you will need to get a good deal of force on the piston as you turn it to re-engage the threads. There is a formidable spring pushing out on the piston. These are very fine threads so it is important to have a straight push and not cock the piston as you turn it. This is not easily done, in any case. But is easier with the caliper off the bike. Pulling the brake line will introduce some air into the system. But there are ways to minimize this. If you get too much air, you will then need to bleed the entire system, including the VSS module. And I know this possibility is what is keeping you at your current status.

It is unlikely that you will be able to accomplish this with needle nose pliers. But the good news is, it is doable.

Yep you're in trouble.

I bought my RT-S with 77K miles so brake pads were on the immediate to-do list. Fronts looked good, maybe half worn but rears were almost down to the backing just like yours. Even with BajaRon's tool I could not retract the piston. So it was obvious the previous owner tried to change the rear pads without success and mangled the threads. I bought a used rear brake assembly on eBay for a song, easily retracted its piston with the caliper assembly in a vise, quickly swapped calipers with minimal fluid loss, installed new pads and proceeded to bleeding the brake system. You will want speedbleeders or equivalent. Bleed all three calipers in sequence twice. And if you haven't used 16oz of fluid then you haven't fully flushed your brake system so do it again.

If you do get air in the brake lines, then you will need to bleed the VSS too. At this point it gets serious because your brakes will probably be spongy. Patch things together as best you can and carefully ride to a mechanic with the BUDS service tool.

Best wishes.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

It is likely that you've exceeded the thread depth on the piston adjuster. If this is the case you will need to get a good deal of force on the piston as you turn it to re-engage the threads. There is a formidable spring pushing out on the piston. These are very fine threads so it is important to have a straight push and not cock the piston as you turn it. This is not easily done, in any case. But is easier with the caliper off the bike. Pulling the brake line will introduce some air into the system. But there are ways to minimize this. If you get too much air, you will then need to bleed the entire system, including the VSS module. And I know this possibility is what is keeping you at your current status.

It is unlikely that you will be able to accomplish this with needle nose pliers. But the good news is, it is doable.

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Thanks for the response, Ron. With the help of my "understanding" soulmate wife I (we) did finally get a BIG clamp on the parts, and I did manage to "feel like it turned in a few turns" and looks like it may be seated again/ok. I did get a feeling I had turned it clockwise a few turns and that it went in some. Tomorrow will tell the story when the pads are in, and everything buttoned up.

:thumbup:

Well done and good work.

Bloke after my own heart.

Now , about that preventive maintenance ..... nojoke

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Originally Posted by teninospyder

Thanks for the response Ron. With the help of my "understanding" solemate wife I (we) did finally get a BIG clamp on the parts and I did manage to "feel like it turned in a few turns and looks like it may be seated again/ok. I did get a feeling I had turned it clockwise a few turns and that it went in some. Tomorrow will tell the story when the pads are in and everything buttoned up.

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It is good to have a GOOD navigator that can turn a wrench every now and then!!!:congrats: Hope your on the road to miles of smiles!!

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Originally Posted by teninospyder

Thanks for the response Ron. With the help of my "understanding" solemate wife I (we) did finally get a BIG clamp on the parts and I did manage to "feel like it turned in a few turns and looks like it may be seated again/ok. I did get a feeling I had turned it clockwise a few turns and that it went in some. Tomorrow will tell the story when the pads are in and everything buttoned up.

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Awesome! Sounds like you're on your way to a Good Day! The rear pads are harder to check. But those are the ones that will get you every time. Glad you got it worked out. Were you able to do it on the bike? Or did you take the caliper off?

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

Awesome! Sounds like you're on your way to a Good Day! The rear pads are harder to check. But those are the ones that will get you every time. Glad you got it worked out. Were you able to do it on the bike? Or did you take the caliper off?

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Caliper off but connected, both of us holding and twisting and squeezing as much as we could! I just wrapped everything up this AM, after fighting the new shoes to get them to go over the brake disc as required. They didn't want to stand apart long enough to get completely over the disc. ANYWAY - THANKS VERY MUCH for your support along the way! It won't be forgotten !!

It's an 'All's well that ends well' scenario. Perseverance and teamwork pays off.

:2thumbs:...Glad you were able to get the job done. Any tips for how to make this 'Brake Job' a little bit easier? I need to check out my rear brakes too.

Enjoy your Ryde Times. ....:thumbup:

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Originally Posted by Little Blue

:2thumbs:...Glad you were able to get the job done. Any tips for how to make this 'Brake Job' a little bit easier? I need to check out my rear brakes too.

Enjoy your Ryde Times. ....:thumbup:

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Little Blue,
From the front of the caliper assy, with help from a small mirror and a small flashlight, I was able to get a glimpse of how much pad is left. holding your cell phone up in that area can also produce a view...if you try a few shots.

Note: Ours is a 2014RTLSE6 purchased in June 2014.
I document mileage readings all the time, for maintenance items history as well as "just want to know" for some things.
For the rear brakes my recorded data shows me that on:
02/07/18 we had put 20,396 miles on original set of rear pads - thought they were "down to limits" (may not have been) - but I replaced them with OEM.
0n 05/14/21 ( 43,300 miles on Spyder and 22,904 miles on this set of pads) I checked and found No Lining Left - replaced with OEM.
On 07/17/23 (61,000 miles on Spyder and only only 16,700 miles on rear pads, I found No Lining on 1 pad and a slim sheet of lining on the other. Have now replaced with OEM for 3rd time.

First off, I do not consider these "lifespans" to be a condemnation of OEM pads.
Our riding habits have changed significantly over the past few years (primarily with now towing a trailer a lot and"using interstate travel and associated increased braking requirements". )
Secondly, I WILL be checking the rear pad linings for depth more often now (even though it is a "PITA" to do with any confidence).
Thirdly, I WILL be getting the tool for turning in the piston on the rear caliper !!

Don't know if this helps or hinders, but just my data and comments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Little Blue

:2thumbs:...Glad you were able to get the job done. Any tips for how to make this 'Brake Job' a little bit easier? I need to check out my rear brakes too.

Enjoy your Ryde Times. ....:thumbup:

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My $.02 worth here. It helps a lot to open the caliper bleeder (with a tube and bag/bottle attached) when turning the piston back in. It lessens the force required by not having to force brake fluid back to the reservoir. It also gives you the twofer of flushing out some of the old fluid. When you're finished with the job, just remember to check the fluid level in the reservoir.

Hey Bert! Did you mean ABS not VSS? Just asking to clarify for others. Thanks Dave

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Originally Posted by BertRemington

Yep you're in trouble.

I bought my RT-S with 77K miles so brake pads were on the immediate to-do list. Fronts looked good, maybe half worn but rears were almost down to the backing just like yours. Even with BajaRon's tool I could not retract the piston. So it was obvious the previous owner tried to change the rear pads without success and mangled the threads. I bought a used rear brake assembly on eBay for a song, easily retracted its piston with the caliper assembly in a vise, quickly swapped calipers with minimal fluid loss, installed new pads and proceeded to bleeding the brake system. You will want speedbleeders or equivalent. Bleed all three calipers in sequence twice. And if you haven't used 16oz of fluid then you haven't fully flushed your brake system so do it again.

If you do get air in the brake lines, then you will need to bleed the VSS too. At this point it gets serious because your brakes will probably be spongy. Patch things together as best you can and carefully ride to a mechanic with the BUDS service tool.

Best wishes.

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Dave - neither... my mistake!

Thanks to everyone who posted to this. I was having the same problem and neither of my manuals gave me this information. needless to say I was getting very frustrated. thanks again.