Supporting the Spyder on ramps

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03-03-2015, 09:09 AM
OverHillAndDale

Supporting the Spyder on ramps

To install the Baja Ron anti sway bar, I've got to get at least 22" of clearance under the front of my Spyder. My car ramps don't come close.

I've got a couple of 2 by 8 boards I can set up as ramps, but I don't know what they can hold. Since I'll be under the bike I'm a bit concerned.

Assuming the boards are in good shape with no cracks, can 2 by 8 ramps be trusted? The Spyder weighs just over 1000 lbs, and since these will be supporting the front I'm guessing maybe 700 lbs will be supported by the ramps, so 350 lbs each. Boards are 8 feet long and I'd angle them at 30 degrees or so.
03-03-2015, 09:41 AM
bullant12

Quote:

Originally Posted by OverHillAndDale

To install the Baja Ron anti sway bar, I've got to get at least 22" of clearance under the front of my Spyder. My car ramps don't come close.

I've got a couple of 2 by 8 boards I can set up as ramps, but I don't know what they can hold. Since I'll be under the bike I'm a bit concerned.

Assuming the boards are in good shape with no cracks, can 2 by 8 ramps be trusted? The Spyder weighs just over 1000 lbs, and since these will be supporting the front I'm guessing maybe 700 lbs will be supported by the ramps, so 350 lbs each. Boards are 8 feet long and I'd angle them at 30 degrees or so.

I wouldn't trust wood, particularly 2 inches thick. Try jacking both sides as high as you can, place the front tires on cinder blocks, then place the jack on the same level cinder blocks and keep raising until you can place a few blocks that gives you the 22" or more.
03-03-2015, 12:57 PM
jcthorne

Very bad advise.

DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.
03-03-2015, 01:57 PM
OverHillAndDale

I've got jack stands, but not a jack that will get the bike that high. Also, is it safe to jack using a floor jack from the center of the bike? If it tipped either way the bike would slide off.

Harbor Freight sells some cheap ($89) ramps rated at 1000 lbs, 500 lbs each. They are for loading stuff onto a pickup, but I could build a stand attached to my garage wall to rest them on. Thoughts?
03-03-2015, 02:01 PM
Orange Spyder Man

No reason to work under your spyder while jacked up... put your spyder on ramps... loosen all the bolts that need to be taken off... I used 2 x 12's on the back of my truck... pull your spyder up the 2x12's until you get enough clearance to remove the old sway bar.. ... put the new one in place.. back your spyder down.. put it back up on the ramps ..... and tighten all the necessary bolts & nuts...
ONE WORD OF CAUTION.. THE PARKING BRAKE PROBABLY WILL NOT KEEP YOUR SPYDER FROM BACKING DOWN THE 2X12'S... USE A CHOCK IN BACK OF THE REAR WHEEL.. GET SOMEONE TO SIT ON THE BIKE AND HOLD THE BRAKE UNTIL YOU GET THE REAR WHEEL CHOCKED.. !!!

if you have any questions that I can help with... PM me

osm
03-04-2015, 02:28 PM
bullant12

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcthorne

Very bad advise.

DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.

Forgot to clear something:

Cinder blocks below jack stands OR the cinder block on the tires. But do not use cinder blocks on the a-arms!
03-06-2015, 01:13 AM
IdahoMtnSpyder

3 Attachment(s)

When I changed my sway bar I used the Craftsman ATV lift and concrete blocks. I had a friend hold the bike steady on the lift until I had it resting on the blocks. Since the lift wouldn't go high enough the first time I put it on a pallet to raise the bike high enough to get on the second block. The center of gravity is such that bike lifted more in front than back so I ended up with only one block under the back tire. With the parking brake on it didn't move. JC says not to use concrete blocks but they are plenty solid and stable the way I used them. In fact I tend to trust them more under the tires than jack stands under the suspension.
03-06-2015, 01:43 AM
2dogs

RIGHT ON!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcthorne

Very bad advise.

DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.

Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. :pray: I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.
03-06-2015, 10:30 AM
scarecrow

1 Attachment(s)

This is what I used to put on the swaybar. It work great and had enough height to remove and replace bar.
03-06-2015, 12:36 PM
SpyderMouse22

Quote:

Originally Posted by scarecrow

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...d=103191&stc=1 This is what I used to put on the swaybar. It work great and had enough height to remove and replace bar.

I have been looking for a good way to raise the bike and I like this idea. Looks like you have enough room to the the job. Also looks safe for man and bike.
03-06-2015, 07:35 PM
Spyder-rider

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2dogs

Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. :pray: I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.

Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side.
Many many years ago I used to lay brick and blocks for a living, so I will re-affirm that blocks are not to be used for load bearing in a sideways position. Upright position they were used for some load bearing walls, but depending on the load may require the webs being filled with concrete. If you are going to use them for the Spyder please turn them upright and put a 2x8 block of wood on top to cover the entire block, just to be safe.
just my friendly suggestion for safety, your mileage may vary, Ron
03-06-2015, 11:28 PM
IdahoMtnSpyder

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2dogs

Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. :pray: I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spyder-rider

Many many years ago I used to lay brick and blocks for a living, so I will re-affirm that blocks are not to be used for load bearing in a sideways position. Upright position they were used for some load bearing walls, but depending on the load may require the webs being filled with concrete. If you are going to use them for the Spyder please turn them upright and put a 2x8 block of wood on top to cover the entire block, just to be safe.
just my friendly suggestion for safety, your mileage may vary, Ron

IMO you guys are overthinking it. First let's be clear. We're talking concrete blocks, not cinder blocks. Big difference. If we consider the center web only it's at least 1" thick by 8" wide. That's 8 square inches. The concrete is going to have a compressive strength of at least 2000 psi, if not 3000+. That's 16,000 pounds just for the center web. Admittedly in the configuration I used them the end webs will contribute very little. At most the front end of the Spyder is 800#, or 400# per tire. That's a safety factor of 20. I'm not worried in the least.
03-09-2015, 07:31 AM
OverHillAndDale

I ended up buying some folding ramps from Northern Tool (rated at 1000 lbs) and supporting them on two 30" 4x4s that I bolted to my concrete block garage walls. Worked perfectly.