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I have some fault codes, DBS and VSS codes, check engine light comes on and off, when i do the code search (the mode hold and 5 bright clicks of the switch), says NO active codes..
I am wondering if those codes can't be reset without a dealership and their computer
Bike seems to run and start just fine..
Thanks ALL!
I changed the battery, same codes, checked ground, etc... more when the weather gets a little more reasonable here in the mid-west
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Many codes reset when the cause is fixed............ I would sure check the battery connections. first. Year and model of your ryde is very helpful. Many of us put that info in the signature file.
Lew L
sorry 2009 Spyder SM5Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew L
I bought a new battery and connections are tight, i had to put in a new ground bolt underneath the seat b/c it was loose and stripped-- guess i should double check that also, but we made sure it was tight and havent rode it
:chat: The codes will stay in the bikes 'Black Box'. That being said you can not delete the Fault codes. Only the Dealers and BRP will be able to delete most codes. You Know 'insurance protection' for the Dealer and BRP. ......:thumbup:
Did you put your 'New Battery' on charge for at least 12 hours before installing it?? Have you checked & load tested your 'New Battery' since installing it to make sure it's good & holds a good charge?? :dontknow: Just cos a battery is 'New' it doesn't necessarily mean it's got a proper/full charge or that it's 'good'. :lecturef_smilie:Quote:
Originally Posted by laser1972
I've seen quite a few 'New Batteries' that were effectively 'dead' on installation!! There's been more than one thread reporting new batteries like that here too!! :banghead:
If your codes are due to poor voltage/dead battery, then charging your 'New Battery' properly or getting it replaced for one that you KNOW has been put on a charger for at least 8 hours before installation (preferably because you did it yourself ;) ) and that has tested as fully charged & load tested as good should clear all those codes just by connecting it all up & ryding it for a bit, without the need to connect it to BUDS! :thumbup:
When the problems go away the light will go off but just in case clear the codes by disconnecting the battery and touch the positive and the negative leads together for 30 seconds to clear the memory from the computer.If the same codes come back you definitely have a problem.
Yes when the battery came in the mail, it wasnt charged, so i had it on the charger overnight and put it in the next dayQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
I have left it for a few days and the battery still starts the bike right up, maybe I do need to ride it a bit to clear the codes, just dont want it to go into limp mode (It never has done that, but still..)
I might try the other suggestion to touch the leads for 30 sec and see if it clears the codes or not, then next would be test the battery with a meter to see if the battery has correct voltage
T
Thanks for all the advice and help!...
I'd do that first!! :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by laser1972
If the battery wasn't charged at all before you got it, chances are it REALLY needed a good 12+ hour charge to bring it up to speed AND some ryding there-after! Every start you try will effectively need about 30 mins of ryding at hwy speeds to properly replenish the drain the attempted start, so given what you're seeing now, just check it!!
Connect a multi-meter across the battery terminals (correct pos/neg connections please! ;) ) before you try anything to check that there's 12.5 plus volts in there when the battery is resting & unused for some hours (8+... ); then watch to make sure that it doesn't drop below about 12 volts when you just turn the ign on; that it stays above 10.6 - 11 volts while the starter is actually cranking (or while the solenoid is clicking... :p ) and then IF it happens to start, it should show about 13.6 or more volts with the engine running at a fast idle.... All that's not as good as a proper load test, but it'll give you an idea of the battery's state of charge. :thumbup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
battery tested at 12.4 or so and the bike has sat for a few days, tested it after it started and peaked at 13.-14 volts
Still bearing in mind that this isn't necessarily a simple 'low battery/dead battery' issue, and that a multi-meter test isn't as good as doing a proper Battery Load Test, that first reading above is 'sorta OK' - not great tho, I would've expected a higher resting voltage from a fully charged new battery, but it's possibly not suggesting anything awful yet; and the second reading is suggesting to us that your Spyder's charging system is in good nick. :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by laser1972
Did you also check the voltage with just the ign turned on (turn ign on & then read voltage before trying to start the engine ;) ) & then again while the starter was actually cranking the engine, cos given that first result you've shown us above, those other two could be very revealing.... or maybe not?! :rolleyes:
BTW, what sort of battery charger do you have?? A proper Smart Charger with Multi-stage Charging Levels & Maintenance Mode, or just a Battery Tender? :dontknow:
Ok, i will do the other test and report back.. Will have to get batteries for my tester, my dad came over to watch the football game and we used his ..
I have 3 or 4 battery chargers, i use a fancy one that tells me percentage, volts and even has wireless app that i can use on my phone that tells me the same info
also have a speed charger which i can use from 2v to 12V fast charge.... and a generic old school battery charger that is not digital..'
ok had tjhe charger on overnight, even the charger went into maintenance modeQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
I did the test again but this time also included the start but not run voltage
battery was around 12.4, starting it up went into 13.5 or so, just hitting the starter it dropped into 11 volts
any ideas... I might just return the battery and get another one... Just strange that it was dead on arrival and the guy telling me it should be at 70 percent charged
11 volts while cranking is borderline... possibly functional in some vehicles, but not really good enough for a power hungry Spyder! :banghead: . You might be able to restore that battery to some semblance of useful life by properly charging it & running it thru a maintenance cycle followed by a full charge cycle a few times; but if it's dropped below 12 volts just once at the start of its life, then it's never likely to work as well or last as long as it should! :cus:Quote:
Originally Posted by laser1972
So I reckon that either it came to you less 'charged' than it should've been & you probably didn't charge it properly/for long enough when you first got it to compensate for that; or you simply got a dud new battery that was DOA - it does happen occasionally, more often than you might think. :mad:
Either way, it's probably dead or dying now, and as a 'new battery', it shouldn't be - the supplier should replace it, but might want to see proper load test results first to confirm that it's really cactus.... :rolleyes:
Once you get a new, 'new battery', charge it on the appropriate charging cycle (wet cell or AGM, etc as appropriate for the battery type - altho a motorbike/Spyder battery should be at least an AGM battery! ;) ) for at least 12 hours before installing it; and then once installed & you start your Spyder up, either take your Spyder for at least a 30 min road speed ryde, or put it back on the maintainer to replace the battery drain imposed by starting the engine & not ryding it long enough to recharge it and top it up! :lecturef_smilie: . The ryde should clear all those codes & lights etc from active status, but they will remain recorded in the history for the tech to see next time your Spyder is connected to BUDS. :thumbup:
Good Luck! :cheers:
Thanks, i am returning the battery --
Do you happen to know a good brand etc to order one from ebay?... Yuasa was the one i ordered, but when it came it doesnt say it anywhere on the battery, just PowerStar..
Just do not want to make the same mistake, locally, they want over $100 for the same battery
Remember the saying? You get what you pay for? I would NEVER purchase a battery from ebay, but....that’s just me.
So after yet another battery (got one for $125 MotorAtt AGM yellow battery), I doubt it was the culprit.
Same codes ABS/VSS/EBD, -- No check engine light and I drove it around the block and church parking lot for a good 15 min
People are saying the sensor on the wheel or cable might be bad....