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Probably this questions already been answered here, however, I'd like to ask again. Just got 2020 Spyder RTL, love this machine, but I'm afraid that my motorcycle jack will be no good for this one. RTL seems too wide, and lifting it up for oil change and maintenance could be a problem for me. I don't want to put a lift table in my garage, not enough space. What other budget options are available for lifting RTL? TIA!
Drive it up on two car ramps and jack up the rear at the shock.
A big +1 for car ramps. I don't bother jacking the rear wheel either. If you look at the locations of the crankcase plug and clutch cover plug (a bit difficult to get a 6 mm Alllen wrench fully into from what I read) they are both located rearward of the center line of the transversely mounted engine so having the rear tire on the garage floor is no big deal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
One more suggestion, secure at least one front tire to it's ramp so as not to allow the spyder to freely roll backwards. Simply for safety reasons.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
Works fine for fluid changes on my Ryker
Thank you guys, I was thinking along the same lines, thanks for confirming that!
A pair of high strength "plastic" (reinforced nylon?) ramps from Auto Zone have served me well. not expensive and they will never rust.
Probably the same as post 5 photo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arion
Rhino RHN 11909 from O'Reilly's for $49.99, $44.99 with military/veteran discount.
That's what my parking brake is for. My ramps also have a hump at the forward end of the incline portion as well as at the horizontal terminus so the front wheels can't roll in either direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
I set my ramps down on the floor at the rear of the tires and back up the ramps, that way I am not fighting the slope of the ramp when I do my oil on my RT! After I am up on the ramps, I just put a floor jack under the back lift it up and put a safety stand under the swing arm
Certainly looks like that's the case. I should have examined the photo more closely.Quote:
Originally Posted by SportsterDoc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey
Never thought of doing it that way. Don't know about current F3, but prev RT wouldn't go up my metal ramps without serious rubbing of front scoop. I made three "boxes" out of 2 X 8's, jack it up with regular hydraulic jack, put one under each wheel.
OMG, thanks JayBros. I never would have thought of that. Keep the good thoughts.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
I should have said to back it onto the ramps. That keeps them out of your way.
Great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
If it is on a cement floor the ramps may slide. Solve it by putting 2 pcs of 2x8 under the leading edge of the ramps. they are not as steep and it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc
Yes, the steel ramps will slide on your cement floor. I solved this by putting inserts for 1/4 lag bolts in the floor to clamp down 2 pieces of 1x2x8 long wood. Removable when not needed (leave this inserts in the floor) and prevents the ramps from sliding when put against them. I changed my oil with the rear wheel on the floor without issue.