1330 oil drain plug

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05-13-2019, 10:09 AM
CBXBob

1330 oil drain plug

The 1330 oil drain plug has an extended shank for o rings between the plug and gasket sealing surface and the threads. Other than providing additional sealing for the oil drain plug do the o rings have any other purpose as sealing an oil passage or routing some oil? Or could the proper length/size drain plug with out o rings be used.
05-13-2019, 10:12 AM
jcthorne

The 1330 has a dry sump oil system with the oil tank and crankcase internal to the block. The plug goes through both the crankcase and into the sump. Pulling the plug drains both. The o-rings seal one from the other. Installing a plug with no o ring will cause oil to drain back from the sump to the crankcase and overwhelm the evacuation pump.
05-13-2019, 11:59 AM
Grandpot

BRP went through a lot of trouble designing and building that fancy plug. My advice is to use it and change the O rings regularly
05-13-2019, 01:13 PM
Chupaca

See above....

Treat it kindly and don't overtighten as that plug with o-rings runs about $40.00 and probably more at the dealer. Some things are best left alone and this would be one of them. O-rings and crush washer run about $6.00. :thumbup:
05-13-2019, 10:26 PM
BLUEKNIGHT911

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chupaca

Treat it kindly and don't overtighten as that plug with o-rings runs about $40.00 and probably more at the dealer. Some things are best left alone and this would be one of them. O-rings and crush washer run about $6.00. :thumbup:

Gene I'm 99.99% sure the plug is Stainless Steel , I would worry about the Aluminum case it threads into as the thing that will get damaged ….. and yes I have heard of DIMPLE brand plugs breaking at the threaded section ….. but I'm pretty sure the thin walls caused that …… jmho ….. Mike :ohyea:
05-13-2019, 11:27 PM
IdahoMtnSpyder

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

Gene I'm 99.99% sure the plug is Stainless Steel , I would worry about the Aluminum case it threads into as the thing that will get damaged ….. and yes I have heard of DIMPLE brand plugs breaking at the threaded section ….. but I'm pretty sure the thin walls caused that …… jmho ….. Mike :ohyea:

I don't think it is SS. Stainless steel and aluminum don't play well together. You can readily get severe galvanic corrosion in the aluminum that is in contact with stainless steel. I'm sure BRP engineers wouldn't make that mistake. More likely the plugs are corrosion resistant treated steel.
05-14-2019, 03:37 AM
CBXBob

Thanks jcthorne. The exact information I was looking for., And all who responded. I wasn't concerned about the costs of the o rings. After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.
05-14-2019, 08:29 AM
IdahoMtnSpyder

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBXBob

After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.

You sure you're using the right wrench? One of the drain plugs is Torx, the other is hex.
05-14-2019, 08:33 AM
BLUEKNIGHT911

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBXBob

Thanks jcthorne. The exact information I was looking for., And all who responded. I wasn't concerned about the costs of the o rings. After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.

:agree: .... The " Hex " plug has a much deeper cavity / hole, than the torx ….. and it holds the tool better …. I only changed the Torx to a Hex Head plug ( Gold brand ) …… something I learned years ago from a mechanic was to set your Ratchet to loosen / remove prior to using it ….. because the oil procedure is generally done up-side down, it's easy to get it wrong and mis-takenly TIGHTEN instead of loosen …. with tragic results ….. Mike