Looking for suggestions for how many miles to break in new F3 Limited??
TIA
Printable View
Looking for suggestions for how many miles to break in new F3 Limited??
TIA
I've always done the no high RPM's and vary your speed for the first 600 miles routine with my bikes.
Just ride it to 3,000 miles and change the oil.
Read the operator's guide. It has specific instructions; find them in the Table of Contents.
Ride it like you stole it...If I'm going to break in so to speak, I want it broke in the way I'm going to ride it. PS: this is is my opinion only may not be the best but it is my bike and I have had no problems doing so.
I drove mine the way I always ride from day one. No break in. Change oil at 3000
Years ago, I was talking with a MC dealer who told me about a customer who bought a new bike. After a while, the customer brought the bike in stating it has a number of running problems and consumes oil and left it for the shop to take care of it. Knowing this guy doesn't want to hurt his engine, so he keeps the revs low, they took his bike for a vigorous ride, hitting the red line a few times. Problems solved! He never seated the piston rings.
I went by the operator manual. Don't take but a couple rides and it is not that slow. Mostly it is varying the speeds and keeping RPMs down.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by bmccaffrey
Try this method; it works.
I believe in this system to an extent. I was told by an old engine guy to make at least 10 hard full power full throttle, but mid-RPM range pulls through the gears, with appropriate cool down cycles between the runs. The hard pulls are to seat the rings, but keeping the revs off of redline lets all the other stuff wear in smoothly. Best of both worlds.Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderyderjim
Ride it normal for the first 100 miles. Vary your speeds and don't lug the motor. Lugging a motor is worse than high revving. Also, manually down shift as this helps load your rings properly. Remember, "break in" isn't always about your motor. Everything is new. Brake pads need to be mated to rotors, transmission gears need to be meshed, tires need to be scrubbed in, etc.
When I took delivery of my 2014 RT, I put on 50 miles local riding the first day. The next day I did a 475 mile day trip to the NC mountains and rode it hard in the curvy mountain roads. 3 years later I was delivered my 2016 F3T while on my mountain vacation and put about 1300 miles on it in the NC/Tenn mountains. I did take care and kept my revs below 6k rpm's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Igofshn
:agree: x 2. Brake pads and tires are a consideration for the first 350 miles or so. After that, normal riding and varying the speeds to make the motor work a little bit. You should be good to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by troop
The suggestion to follow the break-in information in the manual is good.
I agree with this method also. The ring to cylinder mating is probably the most important process during break-in. And from what I can tell. This method works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderyderjim
Riding easy does not put pressure on the rings to expand against the cylinder wall. Short, hard acceleration causes the rings to expand against the cylinder wall creating a better mating surface, less blow by, and speeding up the seating in process. I use it.
You do want to stay away from the lower and upper RPM limits until you get some miles on the engine.
I just rode mine like I normally would, I don't high rev any of my bikes but I did change the oil at 1800 miles. I didn't want the contaminated oil sitting in the bike for the winter months, I always store them with fresh oil so they're ready to go come March bike week.
Ditto. Ran them all like that. All 30 or so of them (lost count). Spyder too (only three wheeler in my stable's list) and quads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasinsparks