Not always Shifting from First to Neutral - paddle shifter or what??

Specifically, down-shifting from first to neutral.

During my last two rides, I stopped for gas and put my foot on the brake, set the parking brake, then attempted to downshift from first to neutral before shutting off the engine.

Wouldn't do it - stayed in first. Tried about 4-5 more times without success, so I shut the engine down and gassed up. Started up after that and went on my my way. All other gearshifts were normal, including a few more pit stops where it did shift into neutral normally.

Happened a second time later during the ride once more. I could shift from 1st directly into reverse, then directly to neutral when this event happened. Then, subsequent stops behaved normally.

Today, the same thing happened. I made certain that I was pulling back on the shifting paddle firmly and correctly. I tried about 5-6 clicks in rapid succession and it finally went into neutral.

Experimented a few more times during traffic stops and found the condition to be very sporadic - behaved properly more often than not.

Oil and filters were changed about 1K ago and the oil level is normal. Gear shifting linkage is tight.

Wondering if the paddle switch is going bad (no other shifting issues, tho) or something else is going on. Tranny is the SE5.

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Originally Posted by ARNIE R

Specifically, down-shifting from first to neutral.

During my last two rides, I stopped for gas and put my foot on the brake, set the parking brake, then attempted to downshift from first to neutral before shutting off the engine.

Wouldn't do it - stayed in first. Tried about 4-5 more times without success, so I shut the engine down and gassed up. Started up after that and went on my my way. All other gearshifts were normal, including a few more pit stops where it did shift into neutral normally.

Happened a second time later during the ride once more. I could shift from 1st directly into reverse, then directly to neutral when this event happened. Then, subsequent stops behaved normally.

Today, the same thing happened. I made certain that I was pulling back on the shifting paddle firmly and correctly. I tried about 5-6 clicks in rapid succession and it finally went into neutral.

Experimented a few more times during traffic stops and found the condition to be very sporadic - behaved properly more often than not.

Oil and filters were changed about 1K ago and the oil level is normal. Gear shifting linkage is tight.

Wondering if the paddle switch is going bad (no other shifting issues, tho) or something else is going on. Tranny is the SE5.

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I think the SE transmission doesn't consider " neutral " to be a GEAR ..... you go into reverse, which allows you to up-shift to FIRST .... then you can downshift into Neutral..... I have a 14 1330 RT and this is how it works on mine ..... Mike :thumbup:

Do you have your foot on the brake when you try to shift?

Could be the shifting paddles are going bad. There was a warranty left cluster replacement because of this.

To shift into reverse you need to be pressing the reverse button. It can’t upshift to reverse as it’s a separate gear.

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

I think the SE transmission doesn't consider " neutral " to be a GEAR ..... so it goes into reverse, which allows you to up-shift to the " neutral " position. I have a 14 1330 RT and this is how it works on mine ..... Mike :thumbup:

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Blueknight: I have the same bike and mine works directly opposite of yours. From reverse I can only up-shift to 1st gear. With a delicate touch I downshift from 1st into neutral.

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Originally Posted by Flamewinger

Do you have your foot on the brake when you try to shift?

Could be the shifting paddles are going bad. There was a warranty left cluster replacement because of this.

To shift into reverse you need to be pressing the reverse button. It can’t upshift to reverse as it’s a separate gear.

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Yes. Bike is stopped. Foot on brake. Parking brake set. Pullback of paddle shifter to set it into neutral, which it has always done for the past 5 and a half years. Just now, it is very sporadic that it is not doing so during my last two rides. But it will shift perfectly from 1st to reverse without issue and back to neutral or first.

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Originally Posted by ARNIE R

Yes. Bike is stopped. Foot on brake. Parking brake set. Pullback of paddle shifter to set it into neutral, which it has always done for the past 5 and a half years. Just now, it is very sporadic that it is not doing so during my last two rides. But it will shift perfectly from 1st to reverse without issue and back to neutral or first.

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Think you need to have it checked by a Spyder tech. I’d check the battery and make sure it’s good. Anything loose on the left grip? As mentioned, it could be the paddle shifter is failing. Means replacing the whole cluster.

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Originally Posted by LongIsland

Blueknight: I have the same bike and mine works directly opposite of yours. From reverse I can only up-shift to 1st gear. With a delicate touch I downshift from 1st into neutral.

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:agree: ..... I had a brain fart:lecturef_smilie: ..... You are correct I also have to go up to first then I can downshift to neutral .... It sucks getting OLD ...... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by Flamewinger

Could be the shifting paddles are going bad. There was a warranty left cluster replacement because of this.

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I had a similar problem and found this while doing my research. However according to this doument it only addresses the 2018 F3 and RT models.

Double check oil level

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Originally Posted by gkamer

I had a similar problem and found this while doing my research. However according to this doument it only addresses the 2018 F3 and RT models.

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But the PROBLEM concerns - in-ability to engage - REVERSE .... this is not the OP's issues ..... Mike :thumbup:

I feel an unfortunate visit to the stealership pending.

Today, in addition to the odd shifting issue, I discovered that the high beam function ceased to operate correctly. When I pushed the switch to the high beam selection, nothing happened. Also, pushing the switch to the flash-hi-beams failed to happen.

Tried a few more times during my ride and the high beams would sporadically come on normally, however, when revving the engine, they would start to flicker/pulse slightly, then return to normal brightness at idle. Pulled and replaced the high beam relay and fuses without any change. There is no flickering/pulsing in the low beam position.

All other functions on the left handgrip selector switch unit still work okay. Before I dump $509 on a new unit, is there something else I might look into first? (yes, I did check the battery connections for tightness/corrosion)

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Originally Posted by ARNIE R

I feel an unfortunate visit to the stealership pending.

Today, in addition to the odd shifting issue, I discovered that the high beam function ceased to operate correctly. When I pushed the switch to the high beam selection, nothing happened. Also, pushing the switch to the flash-hi-beams failed to happen.

Tried a few more times during my ride and the high beams would sporadically come on normally, however, when revving the engine, they would start to flicker/pulse slightly, then return to normal brightness at idle. Pulled and replaced the high beam relay and fuses without any change. There is no flickering/pulsing in the low beam position.

All other functions on the left handgrip selector switch unit still work okay. Before I dump $509 on a new unit, is there something else I might look into first? (yes, I did check the battery connections for tightness/corrosion)

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" IF " you switched to LED headlights, it's quite possible one of the wires is interfering the shutter mechanism .... lots of folks here have had this issue .....IF not I can't advise a different fiz .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

" IF " you switched to LED headlights, it's quite possible one of the wires is interfering the shutter mechanism .... lots of folks here have had this issue .....IF not I can't advise a different fiz .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

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RT maybe but sorry Mike FYI the ST’s don’t have the shutter just a H4 bulb. Does sound like more going on & symptoms just slowly appearing.:gaah::sour: additional question before dealer: did you get the fuse block service bulletin:dontknow: there was one side required something because water would seep into somehow.

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

RT maybe but sorry Mike FYI the ST’s don’t have the shutter just a H4 bulb. Does sound like more going on & symptoms just slowly appearing.:gaah::sour: additional question before dealer: did you get the fuse block service bulletin:dontknow: there was one side required something because water would seep into somehow.

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:agree: Before going to the dealer. Check the fuse boxes and make sure everything in there is dry and up to code! Very cheap & easy check! ......Bill :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

RT maybe but sorry Mike FYI the ST’s don’t have the shutter just a H4 bulb. Does sound like more going on & symptoms just slowly appearing.:gaah::sour: additional question before dealer: did you get the fuse block service bulletin:dontknow: there was one side required something because water would seep into somehow.

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Never heard of the fuse block service bulletin.

When I first discovered the high beam malfunction this morning, I pulled both the high beam relay and fuse to check for any terminal damage or corrosion and found none. After re-inserting both components is when the system started operating randomly off and on, with the flickering/pulsing when the engine was revved.

I am concerned over whether the left handgrip cluster is experiencing intermittent malfunctions since both the shifter and high beam switch are both on it.

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

RT maybe but sorry Mike FYI the ST’s don’t have the shutter just a H4 bulb. Does sound like more going on & symptoms just slowly appearing.:gaah::sour: additional question before dealer: did you get the fuse block service bulletin:dontknow: there was one side required something because water would seep into somehow.

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Mea Culpa :yikes: .....Sorry I missed that ...... Mike :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by Knizar

:agree: Before going to the dealer. Check the fuse boxes and make sure everything in there is dry and up to code! Very cheap & easy check! ......Bill :thumbup:

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Odd you should mention that point. Pulled the cover off and found condensation droplets inside. Furthermore, the main relay marked headlamps had corrosion on its bottom contacts. I also noticed that when I wiggled the relay in the high beam position, it would go back and forth between high and low beam settings. I went out and purchased new relays for all three headlamp positions. We’ll see if that has any positive effect upon the problem.

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Originally Posted by ARNIE R

Odd you should mention that point. Pulled the cover off and found condensation droplets inside. Furthermore, the main relay marked headlamps had corrosion on its bottom contacts. I also noticed that when I wiggled the relay in the high beam position, it would go back and forth between high and low beam settings. I went out and purchased new relays for all three headlamp positions. We’ll see if that has any positive effect upon the problem.

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:clap: Cleanup each metal contact by scaping off any old green rusty crap, add a dab of electrical grease to each and every metal contact. (I also spray with a silicone lubricant). :thumbup: & Good Luck....Bill