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What is the ohm resistance supposed to be ? I read 3.0 on my dmm on other 3 solenoids and 1.7ohms on this solenoid also doesn't seem to return like it's supposed to when 12 volts is not applied it floats back and forth if it's pushed in it will come out on 12 volts but if it's out already nothing.. Any help is appreciated bike wasn't shifting out of first
I never dug as deep as you and you are elbows deep. So I don't know how the solenoids are supposed to act. Sorry. I would be interested in how you got here. So some background may be good.
So you have GS/RS SE5, what year?
How long have you had it?
Has it worked as you expected since you owned it?
Please explain it won't shift out of 1st. 1st to neutral, 1st to 2nd or both?
When it fails to shift. Does the throttle blip to 2000 rpm up to 3 times?
My manual for the 2008 - 2011 GS/RS shows the following values at 68 degrees F.
The first set of numbers are the pins (wires) at the Transmission Control Module (TCM) connector for the solenoids. The second set of numbers are resistance in ohms. It isn't totally clear, but I believe these are taken at the TCM connector. I hope this helps.
SOLENOID CONNECTOR PIN @ 20°c (WIRE COLOR) (68°F)
Upshift
1 8
2.50- 2.80 n
(RED) (WHITE)
Downshift
2 7
2.50 - 2.80 n
(RED) (WHITE)
Clutch
3 6
2.50- 2.80 n
(RED) (WHITE)
Clutch 4 5
1.00 - 1.50 n
modulation (ORANGE) (WHITE)
rmr2011
Yes thank you the ohm value has tested correct but I still believe the solenoid to be faulty. Going to order a new one and compare before installing maybe hopefully it will only cost me either the part of the restocking fee of the part😂 as to the previous question of how I got here. I am a fixer of things that are broken. You name it and I will try to find a way to improve or fix whatever is wrong. Current problem is 1/2012 can am spider rs se5 Not wanting to shift out of first or kick into neutral when coming to a stop causing bike to stall. When I restart it or try to its stuck in first and will only kick into neutral if I manually move shifter to neutral. Which then it will start idle press shifter into 1st it engages I take off and it will not shift into 2nd and when I stop it dies again. Manually shift into neutral and everything's fine.. The solenoid valve I have traced it to doesn't seem to operate correctly at any angle which I would think it would not matter what angle the solenoid was at it should operate. Just needing reassurance before I drop 300 on a part that may fix it.
From the symptoms described. Why doesn't the centrifugal clutch not disengage when you come to a stop? That should happen regardless if the clutch valves work or not. The clutch solenoid valves only function to disengage and override the centrifugal clutch function.
The clutch solenoid modulation valve. Will only operate correctly in both directions when under hydraulic pressure from the HCM. That may explain why it does not function as you expect when not under pressure.
Some of your symptoms point to a clutch problem and others point to a HCM pressure problem. It is possible they are related in that the o-rings in the clutch slave cylinder have gone bad and starting to leak internally. That drops the overall HCM hydraulic pressure for all functions. Damaged o-rings can cause metal to metal contact and interfere with the function of the mechanical centrifugal mechanism.
Those are my thoughts anyway.
Very valuable information thank you. I hope its this solenoid after looking into what I need to do to replace said orings😂... Went to American motorsports in Madison tn today they went over the solenoid with me and what my other problems might be as well.. Also showed me the service manual about how to check oil pressure and it says 174lbs is perfect with 131 being low and 232 being too high .... So I'm going to put everything back together check pressure and compare the solenoid I ordered should be here tues or weds. They are actually going to let me check it out before purchasing... Guys there seem to be very polite much appreciated.. Hopefully I will get this thing back together soon. I will keep y'all updated thanks for all the help so far
So I picked up part and inspected it and you was right it only resets under pressure and it ohm'd out correctly. Luckily the place was cool and didn't make me buy the part. So I put mine back together and I don't know if I just work on too much stuff and got lost on what the problem was or what but.. It does not stall when I come to a stop it will stay idling and I can get it to go in reverse from neutral but when I try to shift out of reverse nothing... I can see the shifter arm attempting to work the shifter peg but it does not shift, so I have to manually shift it by hand to get it back to neutral so then I can restart. And it shifts into 1st but will not shift into 2nd or higher gears.
Low oil pressure my guess. Most likely internal oil leak. But there is something else easy to check. Take apart the pressure regulator and measure the free length of the spring. If it's short that may be your problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Do you have the measurements of what length the spring is supposed to be? Also I was able to take a 13mm wrench and get through the gears all the way up to 5 and down to 1 and neutral but it wasn't back to back shifting it took some rolling and moving the gear shifter lever a little back and forth before finding gears. I figured it would be smooth like any other motorcycle or atv with consistent up and down shifting? But also the vehicle wasn't running while I shifted through gears
The free length of the spring is 110 mm. That is in the service manual. Do you have one? If not, I recommend you do. Digital versions are cheap enough. http://stores.ebay.com/Midwest-Manua...=p4634.c0.m322
Shifting manually without the engine running is not going to be smooth. Normal. Square cut gears with little to no lead cut into the teeth.
You really need to do an oil pressure test. The procedure and equipment is in the service manual.
So I pulled the spring and its measuring 106.5 with no compression on it. Will probably pick one up tomorrow when I get off work just to get it back in spec. Going to order pressure gauge to check oil pressure. And I guess I need to break down and get the service manual. Thanks guys ill keep you updated.
Was thinking about using a spacer but not having a gauge to check what I had done could be mechanical suicide so I will wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roninassasin
106.5 is good enough. That is not your problem. So don't waste money on a new spring. Don't get a pressure gauge until you read the service manual. There is more than a gauge. You can download a service manual in less than an hour. Depending on your internet speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roninassasin
New spring came in its at 115mm free standing?Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Let us know how it works out.
When I swapped out the spring on my 09. The old spring was about 95mm free length, if I remember right. There was improvement with the new spring.
Some improvement. shifting is getting louder when shifting from neutral to 1st and I can shift out of reverse as long as I shift out of reverse while I'm going backwards under a little throttle. Even got it into 2nd once and shifted out of 2nd back down to 1st but seemed it was pure luck can't get it to do it again... I'm thinking clutch o rings next? Still haven't got the manual lol maybe tomorrow after payday.. All in all it seemed to help a Lil. But the problem continues
So would the clutch cover o rings and compression spring be my next best area to cover?
Still guessing it is low oil pressure. It would nice if we knew for sure.
If you want to tackle the clutch slave cylinder. Here is the exploded view. Also available on BRP website.
http://parts.spyder.brp.com/cgi-bin/...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8
Do you happen to have torque specs on bolts for procedure sorry I'm so needy 😂 thanks for all your helpQuote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Yeah I was thinking that maybe if I replaced the o rings in the clutch cover it might raise pressure in system if they are bad or leaking.
A couple basic items that have not been mentioned.
Have you checked the HCM oil suction line screen in the oil tank. Maybe some debris stuck to it restricting restricting oil flow.
When was the last time the HCM filter has been changed? Is it the newer long one or the old style short one? A dirty filter could restrict oil flow.
Both oil filters have been replaced but I haven't checked the screen on the oil line
Interesting thread. But seems never got to a conclusion.