Does anyone have any driving lights that can be wired directly to the battery?
My accessory port is occupied with an LED grill light.
My bike is a '22 Ryker Sport.
Thanks
Does anyone have any driving lights that can be wired directly to the battery?
My accessory port is occupied with an LED grill light.
My bike is a '22 Ryker Sport.
Thanks
These won't work for me, they use the accessory port for power.
:hun: . But they don't HAVE to be connected that way.... :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by staneric
They're just provided that way as an easy 'plug'n'play' connection kit for those who aren't up for doing the full-on connection thing themselves.... you just hafta cut a couple of wires; then do the strip, solder, fuse, connect thing to the battery, a junction box, or wherever/whatever else you want to connect them to! :lecturef_smilie:
That's one of the wonderful things about electrical wiring - if you don't like the plug that's on the end of something you just bought, you can simply cut it off & change it to some other 'more suitable to your needs' connection, or if you prefer, maybe even connect it somewhere else entirely!! :ohyea:
Just Sayin' ;)
Edit: Mind you, after watching Lamonster's vid, it looks like you can piggyback another accessory off the same plug, so there's a good chance you could run both these lights AND your LED Grill lights off that accessory plug. ;)
Any 12v accessory can be wired directly the battery. :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by staneric
You're missing the whole point, I think. You can wire ANY 12v accessory directly to the battery, including this one. But, why would you want all your accessory wires cluttering up your battery posts?Quote:
Originally Posted by staneric
You need to be mindful of total current draw when doing this. That circuit is on a 5A fuse, and that includes the USB power port.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
True that, but LED's generally don't draw a heap... :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DickB
But if you're concerned about the current draw thru that circuit getting too high, you could always just use it to trigger a relay for switching the lights on - that'd leave that fuse with minimal added load and let you draw the main power load for the lights straight off the battery. :ohyea:
You might be surprised. Many motorcycle driving lights draw 60W (5A). Denali D7 LED driving lights draw 10A. You can get cheap driving lights that draw less than 2A - is that what you want?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Staneric, the poster who asked the question prompting this thread, already has the OE optional grill LED's on that particular accessory circuit, so it's probably not suffering from too much current draw just yet... ;) And I have no idea what Driving Lights he might want to or even end up running, but in my post above (ie. in post #8, the one I posted in reply to you just a few minutes after your original warning about being mindful of the current draw... :rolleyes: ) in the sentence immediately after that portion of my post #8 that you did quote (so yeah, in the bit that you left out...) I mentioned:Quote:
Originally Posted by DickB
{my emphasis added ;) }Quote:
.....
But if you're concerned about the current draw thru that circuit getting too high, you could always just use it to trigger a relay for switching the lights on - that'd leave that fuse with minimal added load and let you draw the main power load for the lights straight off the battery. :ohyea:
By using that circuit to only provide power for a trigger for an extra set of Driving lights which could then be run off a relay powered directly from the battery, it might add maybe as much additional draw to that circuit as 1 whole amp :shocked: ..... or maybe not that much at all?! :dontknow:
The point is, there's a whole raft of ways to get around any concern or practical issues that Staneric might have/see re adding another accessory to that particular circuit, which is clearly not carrying any majorly excessive load/current draw atm; one option being simply to use it to power a trigger for a relay powering extra lights he wants to add as previously mentioned, instead of powering the extra lights entirely via the accessory circuit, and thereby being extremely unlikely to overload that circuit.... Simples really, & definitely not anything that's too hard to overcome &/or circumvent any issues that might arise due to any greater current draw, and certainly no more than the existing circuit &/or the wiring itself can handle. :thumbup:
Thanks for all the input, much appreciated.
I'm probably going with Slingmods grill guard and the 12" LED light bar that goes with it.
I have their LED headlights, so I saved some wattage there and hopefully I won't be overloading the charging system.
Can you mount those fog lights on a f3 limited?
The light bar is specifically designed for the grill guard which is proprietary to the Ryker.
.1 to .2A.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
It's not what most people here think of as 'driving lights', which are designed to throw a lot of light far down the road vs lighting up a wide swath close in.Quote:
Originally Posted by staneric