The hinge on the R/H Pannier has broken, any ideas on how to fix it?
The hinge on the R/H Pannier has broken, any ideas on how to fix it?
I would help if I could, but I (nor anyone) have no idea what veh. you are talking about? ..... Add pertinent info please .... Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussi
I added some model detail for you Aussi. ;)
As for your question, like I said over on OzSpyderRyders in my reply to you there (as Old 85 ;) ) there was a time when we could get an A/mkt Hinge Reinforcement, altho I don't know if anyone is still making/selling them. And Stu gave you the applicable OEM part numbers & Oz prices back there too. :thumbup:
Just typing 'hinge' into the Search field (Top Right of the page) & selecting 'Search Titles Only' in the drop down list before submitting the search reveals that there are quite a few threads here on the Forum about this, here's one that might help a bit:
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ighlight=hinge
So apart from doing that search & some reading, unless someone here knows of anyone still making/selling those A/mkt Hinge Support parts, then as I said in that post, your best bet might be to do some DIY work to support & strengthen the area the hinge connects to, both on the bike side AND on the lid side of the pannier - I know that some have used fibreglass to do this; others have used plasti-bond or similar on the inside bits where you can't see it; and then there are a few who've used longer/wider pieces of metal screwed/bolted thru the outer panels to spread the load of the lid itself & that each open/shut hinge movement applies.... and then try not to ever fill it so full that you need to jam it shut! :rolleyes:
If no-one else has the other info mentioned and it gets that far, it'll come down to your choice of trying to do an invisible repair; doing an obvious repair; or buying/replacing all the damaged bits as appropriate. Stu's prices on those items on the other Forum are usually pretty good for Oz, but he is in Adelaide SA so P&H wouldn't be cheap - hopefully there's someone like him nearby, or at least a dealer who can help if you decide to go down that path. MickQ (who's in FNQ btw, up beyond Cairns towards Atherton. ;) ) may be able to help you with some more local info on that sorta thing. :dontknow:
Over to you. Good Luck! :cheers:
Aussi -- the 1st owner (I'm the 3rd) broke one of the two hinges on the RH trunk lid and repaired it with a strip of thin steel. It's cold and dark now. I'll send you pictures tomorrow.
I might have done something similar to what BertRemington might show. One of the hinges on my sister's RT broke. Actually, the hinge was OK, it was the floor of the pannier that broke. I cut a piece of sheet metal to fit on the bottom side of the floor. Had to do some trimming around some bracing, but used longer bolts through the hinges to also hold the sheet metal. Added some fasteners to attach the sheet metal to the pannier floor to hold it all together. Seems to have held up quite well for the remainder of last riding season. It's about 500 miles away from me, so no pictures.
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Pictures would help us help you.
After sitting on my fat butt in front of the computer screen instead of enjoying the beautiful sunny day outside, I finally took the promised pictures. Yeah, I've replaced all the Torx machine screws, pushpins and many bolts with stainless steel flanged button head hex machine screws.
Now it's beer cat time.
Thanks Bert I have copied photos and will start on repair tomorrow again thanks George Peter I must change my signature as time has now caoght up with me now old 93
I have made the repair as Berts photos all looks good time will tell Aussi
Thanks for the great information. I am not greatly skilled in repairs nor do I have a good place to work on the fix, but am willing to try. I know that it will need to be shortened but do you think this metal strip would work or does a solid piece work better?Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
Thanks again.
LI -- the PO fixed the hinge so I don't know materials. It looks thinner (say 1/32) and is solid. I would think pre-punched wouldn't provide the strength and besides you know the innate animosity of inanimate objects means the holes would never be in the right place.:D
Thanks. I'll muddle through it I have all winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
IMHO I would use thin ( ie 24/26 ga. galvanized sheet metal ) ..... that you first shape and epoxy ( like JB weld ) to the area at issue .... it's easy to bend and drill .... Over the years I have slowly added this to most of the plastic panel TABS of the tupperware, they tend to break or crack over time just from the normal vibration your Spyder undergoes ..... good luck .... I have seen small pieces sold at Home Depot and Lowe's for not much money...... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by LongIsland
Mike -- when I did my Torx=>hex conversion, I got 5mm longer screws and installed them with washers to spread the force across the ABS plastic surround. Now you have me thinking maybe I should glue the washers to the plastic. Thoughts?
The problem is the material that is failing was NEVER strong enough to begin with. ..... adding larger washers will Spread the load ..... however, if they are not BONDED to the orig. material, they will NOT actually strengthen that material.... If the area in question is not broken or cracked etc. .... just adding the larger washers is likely to just prolong the inevitable.... I would glue/bond/epoxy them. ..... The plastic TABS on my tupperware (some cracked - most hadn't yet) were not abused or poorly mounted ..... Spyders take a lot of vibration from NORMAL use ..... IMHO, BRP would be wise to consider using a different type of PLASTIC - One whose formula was a bit more flexible; I think the current type is too brittle & thin for what it's expected to do. The TABS that I have strengthened with sheet metal/epoxy have not had any issues, and I really doubt they ever will. Even 30 Ga. sheet, if properly epoxied, should prevent this issue ..... Mike :thumbup:..... a few years ago I decided I could no longer shovel/remove SNOW from my low pitch garage roof. I consulted an engineer who told me (based on the size, pitch, & truss design) to add a "Plylam" beam under the center of the truss system ..... I bought two (because ONE would have been too heavy for me to install) & I glued and bolted them together, (per the instructions) & put it in place by myself (using a simple come-along). This effectively DOUBLED the weight carrying ability of my roof. That was four years ago. I don't shovel it anymore and have had two feet of snow on it and then a two-day Rain event and the roof didn't collapseQuote:
Originally Posted by BertRemington
:clap: :clap: :clap: ...... Good Luck with your project.
Thanks Mike.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911