Help Please - raw fuel running fm cannisterectomy hose!

I preformed the canisterectomy on my 2012 RS-S SM5. I routed the hose up the side of the air box and down the frame to exit underneath the front of the frunk. After riding for a couple of hours yesterday I came home and parked it and there was raw fuel that was dripping from the hose for about 10 minutes then then turned to fuel vapors for another 10 minutes or so.

So, the help that is needed is why is raw fuel coming out of the hose?

Thanks for any help and guidance.

I recommend running the line to the rear, and not through/over the hot engine components. 1st you want to be sure the fuel line goes well upwards right out of the tank. If you run it straight out you will get some raw fuel sloshing into the hose. If the hose then runs downhill, as yours does, you'll create a siphon action, potentially pulling yet more raw fuel out of the tank. Another situation avoided if you run the line back along the right frame rail to the rear and terminate about mid fender.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

I recommend running the line to the rear, and not through/over the hot engine components. 1st you want to be sure the fuel line goes well upwards right out of the tank. If you run it straight out you will get some raw fuel sloshing into the hose. If the hose then runs downhill, as yours does, you'll create a siphon action, potentially pulling yet more raw fuel out of the tank. Another situation avoided if you run the line back along the right frame rail to the rear and terminate about mid fender.

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So, by rear mid fender are you referring to before or after the exhaust. Sorry, i am more of a visual person hence the reason I ran it to the front because thats the video that explained it.

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Originally Posted by Mightyms54

So, by rear mid fender are you referring to before or after the exhaust. Sorry, i am more of a visual person hence the reason I ran it to the front because thats the video that explained it.

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it's not critical. Just go past the top of the arch in the rear fender and you should be good. I also puta clear lawn mower fuel filter at the end. This keeps the hose clear (probably not necessary) but also gives you a visual if any raw fuel is making it to this point. It should never have raw fuel in it. If it does you have not raised the vent hose enough coming out of the top of the tank.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

it's not critical. Just go past the top of the arch in the rear fender and you should be good. I also puta clear lawn mower fuel filter at the end. This keeps the hose clear (probably not necessary) but also gives you a visual if any raw fuel is making it to this point. It should never have raw fuel in it. If it does you have not raised the vent hose enough coming out of the top of the tank.

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Okay. Much appreciated for your help.

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Originally Posted by BajaRon

it's not critical. Just go past the top of the arch in the rear fender and you should be good. I also puta clear lawn mower fuel filter at the end. This keeps the hose clear (probably not necessary) but also gives you a visual if any raw fuel is making it to this point. It should never have raw fuel in it. If it does you have not raised the vent hose enough coming out of the top of the tank.

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About the only thing that really IS critical is that your 'diversion hose' MUST go UP from the tank and stay up higher than the top of the tank for long enough to stop fuel from sloshing &/or running into it as you ride the Spyder!! The gas in your tank will slosh around under the forces of ryding, as you accelerate, turn, and brake; and it WILL be able to be forced into that hose, so your hose must go UP above the tank/fluid level and stay up for some distance or you'll collect raw fuel in the hose thru that sloshing & it will eventually get forced out the far end by the fumes evaporating off the gas in the tank. :lecturef_smilie:

And even tho you've done a cannisterectomy, because of the above it's still a good idea to avoid over-filling the tank!! The fuel in the tank will almost always be a lower temperature than ambient air temp when you fill your gas tank at the bowser, so once the gas gets into the tank, it WILL start expanding, even if just a little, as its temperature increases to ambient! And then it'll expand even more as you ryde & the engine starts bringing everything up to ITS operating temp in turn; altho you will be using some fuel then... altho you might like to think you're using fuel faster than it's expanding (unless you're ryding gently & slowly in warm/hot conditions) - but then again, you might be very surprised at how much fuel actually does expand as its temperature increases, especially if the ambient & engine temps are warm enough for ryding, but the fuel temp was pretty cold when it came outta the bowser.... saaaayy, as cold as it'd be coming up from an underground tank that's buried in 'winter temperature' soil & concrete etc!! :rolleyes:

So don't fill your tank to the absolute over-flowing limit and make sure your cannisterectomy line goes UP & over the top of the tank level, stays that high for some distance, & heads to the REAR of the machine so that it can vent fairly well clear of obstruction or heat sources - & btw, if you're concerned about the risk of being close to the muffler/exhaust end, even just putting it on the side away from the muffler is generally far enough away from any of that to be fine; but in any event, it's WAAAYYY better being vented back there than it is being vented up front where ANY FORWARD MOTION (ie, you ryding!! :shocked:) means that your hose WILL be venting flammable gasses over a larger, hotter heat source that also has the potential for creating the odd spark or two!! :yikes:

Good Luck! :cheers:

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Originally Posted by Peter Aawen

About the only thing that really IS critical is that your 'diversion hose' MUST go UP from the tank and stay up higher than the top of the tank for long enough to stop fuel from sloshing &/or running into it as you ride the Spyder!! The gas in your tank will slosh around under the forces of ryding, as you accelerate, turn, and brake; and it WILL be able to be forced into that hose, so your hose must go UP above the tank/fluid level and stay up for some distance or you'll collect raw fuel in the hose thru that sloshing & it will eventually get forced out the far end by the fumes evaporating off the gas in the tank. :lecturef_smilie:

And even tho you've done a cannisterectomy, because of the above it's still a good idea to avoid over-filling the tank!! The fuel in the tank will almost always be a lower temperature than ambient air temp when you fill your gas tank at the bowser, so once the gas gets into the tank, it WILL start expanding, even if just a little, as its temperature increases to ambient! And then it'll expand even more as you ryde & the engine starts bringing everything up to ITS operating temp in turn; altho you will be using some fuel then... altho you might like to think you're using fuel faster than it's expanding (unless you're ryding gently & slowly in warm/hot conditions) - but then again, you might be very surprised at how much fuel actually does expand as its temperature increases, especially if the ambient & engine temps are warm enough for ryding, but the fuel temp was pretty cold when it came outta the bowser.... saaaayy, as cold as it'd be coming up from an underground tank that's buried in 'winter temperature' soil & concrete etc!! :rolleyes:

So don't fill your tank to the absolute over-flowing limit and make sure your cannisterectomy line goes UP & over the top of the tank level, stays that high for some distance, & heads to the REAR of the machine so that it can vent fairly well clear of obstruction or heat sources - & btw, if you're concerned about the risk of being close to the muffler/exhaust end, even just putting it on the side away from the muffler is generally far enough away from any of that to be fine; but in any event, it's WAAAYYY better being vented back there than it is being vented up front where ANY FORWARD MOTION (ie, you ryding!! :shocked:) means that your hose WILL be venting flammable gasses over a larger, hotter heat source that also has the potential for creating the odd spark or two!! :yikes:

Good Luck! :cheers:

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Thank you for your help. I definitely appreciate it.

OK....Mine drips a bit as well......Was wonderin if a check valve would fix this? I checked my mileage n did not see a difference. TYIA

How would a check valve work in the line? TYIA