Ryker Battery Life - any 2019/20 Ryker owners replaced theirs yet?

Hello Ryders, I'm wondering if you owners of the 2019, '20 Rykers have purchased a new battery yet, due to it getting weak & old(?) If you did replace it, at how many miles. I had mine on a tender 'til early March. I hooked it up, and started the Ryker up, everything comes on, but while twisting the throttle it doesn't rev., just "misses" but in an equal pattern. 92 octane gas, and Sta-Bil in tank. I think the battery doesn't have enough AMPS to really kick it on.
A new battery is on the way. Any ideas what else it could be? Oh, I do hear the fuel pump kicking on.

Observations: Unfortunately most batteries (maintainer or not) only 3-5y life spans. Lipo maybe longer but yet to be determined.

What is battery voltage off tender?
What is battery voltage immediately after ignition on, before starting?
What is battery voltage while starter operates (field load test)?

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Originally Posted by SportsterDoc

What is battery voltage off tender?
What is battery voltage immediately after ignition on, before starting?
What is battery voltage while starter operates (field load test)?

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I was aware that I should check the problem out with a Multimeter which I don't have. My Ryker Rally bought in 7/19, manf. as I recall in 9/18. (#132 of production) so I jumped to buying a battery as I'm crossing my fingers. I just thought...maybe my neighbor has a multimeter. The past Winter (not this one) I unplugged the tender every couple days. This year I left it plugged in. I've been reading debates today that (some) tenders CAN fry batteries IF plugged in too long. My headlights don't dim at all while starting.

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Originally Posted by canamryder

Hello Ryders, I'm wondering if you owners of the 2019, '20 Rykers have purchased a new battery yet, due to it getting weak & old(?) If you did replace it, at how many miles. I had mine on a tender 'til early March. I hooked it up, and started the Ryker up, everything comes on, but while twisting the throttle it doesn't rev., just "misses" but in an equal pattern. 92 octane gas, and Sta-Bil in tank. I think the battery doesn't have enough AMPS to really kick it on.
A new battery is on the way. Any ideas what else it could be? Oh, I do hear the fuel pump kicking on.

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I would think that if it actually starts and everything comes on (ie. you don't lose the dash or dim the lights, get a bunch of warning lights or codes) then it's probably not an immediate battery problem, even if the battery might be getting a bit old & starting to feel tired.... :rolleyes:

The fact that it hunts in a regular way (I assume that's what you mean by 'misses in an equal pattern' ;) ) while it's running sorta suggests to me that it's more likely going to be due to a dirty throttle body, a fuel delivery problem (dodgy/clogged fuel pump inlet or filter??) or maybe an air leak somewhere on the inlet side.... :dontknow:

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Originally Posted by canamryder

I was aware that I should check the problem out with a Multimeter which I don't have. My Ryker Rally bought in 7/19, manf. as I recall in 9/18. (#132 of production) so I jumped to buying a battery as I'm crossing my fingers. I just thought...maybe my neighbor has a multimeter. The past Winter (not this one) I unplugged the tender every couple days. This year I left it plugged in. I've been reading debates today that (some) tenders CAN fry batteries IF plugged in too long. My headlights don't dim at all while starting.

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No debating involved on that particular bit AT ALL, it's a proven fact that some tenders &/or leaving your battery plugged into a tender ALL the time if it's not also a battery MAINTAINER (with a charge/battery maintenance cycle) is not good for batteries, especially as they get older/tired-er :lecturef_smilie: But the fact that the headlights don't dim AND that it starts and runs without losing the dash &/or giving you codes/anything else strongly suggests that this is NOT your battery (Yeah, I know, it is me saying this! :p ) Maybe you should be looking under the tupperware for cracked or rodent chewed fuel lines &/or wiring; spraying some throttle body cleaner into the TB's; checking for blocked filters; or possibly leaky air hoses &/or inlet trunking that's been dislodged/pulled off their connections? Is the air filter lid seated properly & the filter in good condition?? :dontknow:

Got me curious. As a relatively new/old Ryker owner...how can you even rev the engine?

With the brake on it just goes up to about 1,400 rpm and starts that missing. Take the brake off and it goes. I have tried to find the neutral position with the gear selector but that throws a code if i try to rev it. How would you rev a Ryker?

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Originally Posted by Captainmal

Got me curious. As a relatively new/old Ryker owner...how can you even rev the engine?

With the brake on it just goes up to about 1,400 rpm and starts that missing. Take the brake off and it goes. I have tried to find the neutral position with the gear selector but that throws a code if i try to rev it. How would you rev a Ryker?

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Which brake do you have on. Find that neutral spot, keep foot off of brake pedal, use parking brake if needed. My Ryker throws no codes, but no revving. I think it has bad air intake as PETER AaWEN has questioned. Waiting for new battery first though. It gets too chilly to work out in the shed here in N Illinois. I bought (Amazon) a pack of Throttle Cleaner & Air sensor(?) safe cleaner. Probably a couple of last years dried up old Grasshoppers in there somewhere....ha!

I had to buy new battery for my 2019 Ryker month ago. Old one died suddenly, even if properly charged it had no enought amps to crank the engine. I bought lithium one as a replacement. It is expensive but much lighter and smaller. Time will tell what the durability is

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Originally Posted by Fixxxer

I had to buy new battery for my 2019 Ryker month ago. Old one died suddenly, even if properly charged it had no enought amps to crank the engine. I bought lithium one as a replacement. It is expensive but much lighter and smaller. Time will tell what the durability is

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Which battery did you get? I have a 2019 that will probably need a battery soon.

2019 15K miles original battery no tender, have aux driving lights, stereo, and a few other small electrical items.

Tried to rev it just yesterday. Parking brake on and in a neutral position. No rev. Then tried with no brake, foot or parking, on and in that neutral position. Same deal as if you have it in gear or neutral with parking brake on. Just goes up a couple hundred rpms and staggers.

Hope you find the problem and/or the new battery fixes it.

JUST GOT BACK FROM A 20 MILE RIDE!! I sure wish I knew how the Ryker started behaving. The only thing I can think of is last week I syphoned out most of the gas, keeping the fuel pump partially covered and added some Sea Foam in the tank, along with a Heet. Ryker sat like that for a couple days.
Starting it a couple times, did see moisture come out of tailpipe, why I added Heet. Then filled up tank with what I took out (Sta bil included) and added a dash more Sea Foam. Ryker seemed to start wanting to move with sooner throttle response. I got brave enough to drive around the block after a couple in/outs of shed. I knew I had been short running it, so I took it out for the 20 miles. seems A OK. My battery may be getting old. It took a while for the Tender to go off charge after the ride. New battery due tomorrow. I may be glad I have it.

So as of now you think it was fuel related.

Hauled a friends John Deere quad back to south Florida from my place in Georgia. it also would not rev after sitting in a shed there all winter. I think his fuel filter is plugged. Tries to go but then slows down like it is running out of gas. Bet he did not put some Stable or the like in his fuel before he left it last year.

Run it hard after the new battery is in and maybe make a final conclusion.

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Originally Posted by Captainmal

So as of now you think it was fuel related.

Hauled a friends John Deere quad back to south Florida from my place in Georgia. it also would not rev after sitting in a shed there all winter. I think his fuel filter is plugged. Tries to go but then slows down like it is running out of gas. Bet he did not put some Stable or the like in his fuel before he left it last year.

Run it hard after the new battery is in and maybe make a final conclusion.

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For now I would assume it was fuel related. I'm hoping that Sea Foam cleaned up the fuel filter somewhat, and injectors. Maybe that stuff is the answer to having to buy a $400.00 FILTER- Pump for a while longer.

"...while twisting the throttle it doesn't rev., just "misses" but in an equal pattern"

It's not clear to me that you ever had a problem. What you describe in your original post sounds completely normal if you had the parking brake on or the gearshift lever in fake "neutral".

There is no true neutral on a Ryker, and you cannot rev it without moving.

The gearbox has a Forward - Reverse selector, and switches to indicate each position. You can find a mid position of the gear selector where neither Forward or Reverse is engaged, but in that case neither the Forward or Reverse gear selector switch is active either, so the display will show a "-" and the ECU will not allow you to rev the engine.

The primary clutch sheaves are spread far apart at low RPMs, so the sheaves cannot grp the belt. As you increase RPMs the sheaves move together and grab the belt. If you have the gear selector mid position displaying a "-", or you have the parking brake on, the ECU will allow RPMs to increase to the point where the primary clutch sheaves are grabbing the belt, at which point the ECU cuts RPMs. It repeats this cycle for some reason.

What you describes in your original post sounds completely normal if you had the parking brake on or the gearshift lever in fake "neutral".

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Originally Posted by DickB

"...while twisting the throttle it doesn't rev., just "misses" but in an equal pattern"

It's not clear to me that you ever had a problem. What you describe in your original post sounds completely normal if you had the parking brake on or the gearshift lever in fake "neutral".

There is no true neutral on a Ryker, and you cannot rev it without moving.

The gearbox has a Forward - Reverse selector, and switches to indicate each position. You can find a mid position of the gear selector where neither Forward or Reverse is engaged, but in that case neither the Forward or Reverse gear selector switch is active either, so the display will show a "-" and the ECU will not allow you to rev the engine.

The primary clutch sheaves are spread far apart at low RPMs, so the sheaves cannot grp the belt. As you increase RPMs the sheaves move together and grab the belt. If you have the gear selector mid position displaying a "-", or you have the parking brake on, the ECU will allow RPMs to increase to the point where the primary clutch sheaves are grabbing the belt, at which point the ECU cuts RPMs. It repeats this cycle for some reason.

What you describes in your original post sounds completely normal if you had the parking brake on or the gearshift lever in fake "neutral".

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I'm going to 99% agree with you. The other 1% is that I don't want to admit it was throwing me an April fools day all this while. I think my senior brain got too much frost bite in it over the Winter season up here in Northern Illinois. Doesn't help not to be on the Ryker riding it for 5 months either.

I have Skyrich Lithium HJT12B-FP, I am not sure you can buy it in US. But you can buy battery with these parameters (60Wh and 300A) of some other brands

Don't know if the Ryker is as power hungry as the Spyder, but if so, batteries can be an issue. If you are concerned about longevity, get a small battery tester such as this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Works well. Does load test, charging test, and internal battery health. Inexpensive and is a good DIY shop tool. Check battery at start of riding season, and maybe when you put the Ryker away for the off season. Good Luck.

Ryker 2021, purchased new.

The battery died a year and a half after purchase...

My battery didn't last a year. Replaced under warranty, used a trickle charger on the replacement, is working fine. If I don't ride for a couple of weeks it goes on the charger.