Compressor/Airbag system

[Windagetray]

SO, pursuant to a former post of mine, the compressor died and there is probably a leak somewhere. I'm not really happy about any of that considering it's JUST out of warranty. I don't really trust my local Spyder dealer to do anything but install that same crap compressor, air bag, valves, and connectors that BRP used in the first place so, I've decided to build a system the way is SHOULD have been built in the first place. Since I have to strip the damn thing apart to begin with, I have nothing to lose over paying the stealer**** to do this for me.

I have seen posted on here an upgraded compressor (Viair 097C) and will use that unless someone suggests something better. (not cheaper but BETTER) ....I intend to upgrade the piping as well as the connectors. By question is does anyone know of any place to source a better (or BEST) air bag that would fit this application? If anyone knows of better quality release and check valves to use in the system, I am ALL EARS. I'm also planning to install a by-pass so that if the on-board leveling electronics ever goes "tilt" (which actually could have started all my problems in the first place), I'll be able to by-pass the whole leaking, broken mess such that the Schrader valve basically goes directly to the air-bag and I can pump it up manually without interrupting a ride too badly.

As always, thank you in advance for any advice you may offer on better or BEST components to use in this system!

Mike

[Roadster Renovations]

Good luck on finding another AB manufacturer. I was able to determine the OEM AB is made by Goodyear in Mexico. That was as far as I was able to get. That compressor is the same one I used on our RT and even though the AB has a small leak, the compressor is still working strong. I went in under to replace mine. Posted the video in a previous post.

[Grandpot]

You may want to consider doing this. Check thread:. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98827-Air-Ryde-Rock-Guard

[Windagetray]

Good luck on finding another AB manufacturer. I was able to determine the OEM AB is made by Goodyear in Mexico. That was as far as I was able to get. That compressor is the same one I used on our RT and even though the AB has a small leak, the compressor is still working strong. I went in under to replace mine. Posted the video in a previous post.


For what it's worth, I just ordered the Air Ryde Guard and cat spring tool. However.... now that you mention that YOU have a small leak in your airbag...I'm hoping at least the guard did it's job???

Did you find you had to turn the compressor output 180 degrees to match the stock configuration ...and have a tight squeeze installing it like a poster mentioned who posted the procedure?

What do you mean by "I went in under to replace mine"? Does that mean I don't have to remove the seats, backs, rear storage assembly and fender?

Any chance you have an old AB to get dimensions and mounting details?

[Windagetray]

You may want to consider doing this. Check thread:. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98827-Air-Ryde-Rock-Guard


On order along with a new airbag and compressor!

[Windagetray]

So, now I am in contact with the fine folks at Viair and they are considering making direct replacements for us. However, I need to give them information on the original connector used on the BRP EOM compressor. Anyone have one of these out who can get me the make and model number off the plug/connector used on the compressor? It would be so great to have a part at 1/5 the price of the OEM and is more then 2 times reliable!

[Roadster Renovations]

For what it's worth, I just ordered the Air Ryde Guard and cat spring tool. However.... now that you mention that YOU have a small leak in your airbag...I'm hoping at least the guard did it's job???

Did you find you had to turn the compressor output 180 degrees to match the stock configuration ...and have a tight squeeze installing it like a poster mentioned who posted the procedure?

What do you mean by "I went in under to replace mine"? Does that mean I don't have to remove the seats, backs, rear storage assembly and fender?

Any chance you have an old AB to get dimensions and mounting details?

Ok, let's take these in order. When I found the leak and contacted the dealer they refused to exchange it for a new one. Said the work had to be done by them. I then decided to put 3 oz. of green slime in the airbag and put it all back together with the rock guard in place. It turned a leak that was bad enough to bleed off all the air in 2 hours' ryde time to only have the compressor come on for about 5 seconds after sitting for 24 hours. Since the duty cycle of that particular compressor is 10%, it can run as much as 6 minutes total in one hour. Pumping up like it is now, it will never have a problem with running too much. I may change it this winter, but I am almost to the point of not worrying about it. I think the Rock Guard actually helps seal the bottom of the air bag when it is pumped up. It may be losing a little, but not very much at all.

Yes, you will have to change the orientation 180 degrees. I used the original securing cage with longer bolts. Both compressors are very close in size, the motor area of the aftermarket is slightly larger, hence the longer bolts.

Here is the video I made to do this repair. It is very simple to drop the wheel and remove the upper inner fender. This gives you perfect access for everything. Here is the order of removal. Air Ryde sensor, Loosen tire axle bolt and bottom shock bolt remove the bottom air bag bolt and place jack just before the cat and support, then remove bottom shock bolt, then axle bolt and jack up rear high enough to remove tire after removing belt. Make sure you have the front tires chocked. Once the tire is out, let bike down to a better angle, the take off the two side panels under the seat. This will give you access to the 4 push pins that hold the inner shield on. It is a little work to remove it, but once it's off you are right where you need to be. Might want to remove the upper shock bolt and set assy aside for easier access.

I don't have an old one (put it back on) but the paper was torn up on the bottom so that was all the info I could get.

Before reassembly, I would clean the area very well where the bag sits of any debris. Here are two videos; one for the compressor and one for the rock guard. You will not need to remove exhaust parts since you are replacing the compressor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9INHWKUqYo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4Q-mrDHtWY

Contact me if you need any help.

[Roadster Renovations]

So, now I am in contact with the fine folks at Viair and they are considering making direct replacements for us. However, I need to give them information on the original connector used on the BRP EOM compressor. Anyone have one of these out who can get me the make and model number off the plug/connector used on the compressor? It would be so great to have a part at 1/5 the price of the OEM and is more then 2 times reliable!

BRP needs to change suppliers to these guys. Good, quality product.

BTW: Have them contact me. I think I have the old compressor with the pigtail still connected to it. I can shoot it to them if they want.

[Windagetray]

BRP needs to change suppliers to these guys. Good, quality product.

BTW: Have them contact me. I think I have the old compressor with the pigtail still connected to it. I can shoot it to them if they want.


Doc, I will have Ryan get in contact with you Re: the compressor connector. Thank you for all your help above. I'm not crazy about removing the wheel again (just did a rear tire change) but if it means not having to remove all the rear Tupperware and seats it's probably worth it. Thank again.

[Bob Denman]

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:

[Roadster Renovations]

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:

You could probably rig something to do that as long as you didn't exceed that 10% duty cycle. I'll just stick with the Habor Freight cheapy compressor in the side case for now though.

It is a superior compressor to BRP's IMHO though.

[pegasus1300]

For those attempting to replace their compressors I learned something interesting at Red Rocks Rally. I was watching Spyder Lyter put an American flag LED on the rear of my Spyder. This required that the panels under the trunk be removed. His comment was "let's see if these tabs are broken". There are 2 tabs one on each side and sure enough,they were both broken off. I know that these panels were off only one other time and that was ehen the dealer replaced my compressor under warranty. So be aware and watch what you are doing to not break these tabs. Sorry I can't tell you how as both mine were broken already,but be careful.

[Bob Denman]

You don't need to worry too much about the absence of those tabs. nojoke
The eight screws that hold it in place; do a pretty good job! :thumbup:

[Windagetray]

Must that panel come off using Doc's method to get to the compressor via tire removal?

[Roadster Renovations]

Must that panel come off using Doc's method to get to the compressor via tire removal?

The two panels just in front of the side cases. Not hard to remove. You might fish the pins out, but my hands were too large. I fought it for about 10 minutes and then broke down and pulled them. Maybe someone else has found a "shorter" shortcut! ;)

[Windagetray]

This sure looks like an interesting project; the best of luck to you! :thumbup:
Question: Does the Viair compressor also give you the capacity to pump-up (or at least top-off), tires also? :dontknow:


Thank you about the project. I am just so sick of the crappy, inferior parts BRP used in my $30,000.00 machine as well as the $#!tty way they treat their customers when they try to hold them accountable. If the dealer had bothered to tell me that the rear tire would last only 6K miles and then cost me $500+ to put another 6K tire on it, I do believe my machine wouldn't be sitting in MY garage right now (with a defective ACS that's gonna cost me hours of time and hundreds of dollars to repair. OK...so I'm don't venting. MAYBE.

I think Doc answered the Viair pumping up tire question. You could probably use it to top-off the tires but till you carried around a long enough hose and jury rigged a way to do it, you could easily carry a smaller compressor with a good plug kit and be done with it.

Anyhow... when I find out what killed my compressor (i.e. find the leaking part) I will make sure it never leaks again and then install the compressor according to Doc's directions.

[gerard]

Is anyone aware whether BRP has resolved the compressor/air bag issues that were prevalent in 2014 RT models?

[Bob Denman]

:shocked::hun: You're the first person to use the word "prevalent"; why??
How many have failed? I don't recall seeing all that many 2014 gripes over the bags... nojoke

[larryd]

SO, pursuant to a former post of mine, the compressor died and there is probably a leak somewhere. I'm not really happy about any of that considering it's JUST out of warranty. I don't really trust my local Spyder dealer to do anything but install that same crap compressor, air bag, valves, and connectors that BRP used in the first place so, I've decided to build a system the way is SHOULD have been built in the first place. Since I have to strip the damn thing apart to begin with, I have nothing to lose over paying the stealer**** to do this for me.

I have seen posted on here an upgraded compressor (Viair 097C) and will use that unless someone suggests something better. (not cheaper but BETTER) ....I intend to upgrade the piping as well as the connectors. By question is does anyone know of any place to source a better (or BEST) air bag that would fit this application? If anyone knows of better quality release and check valves to use in the system, I am ALL EARS. I'm also planning to install a by-pass so that if the on-board leveling electronics ever goes "tilt" (which actually could have started all my problems in the first place), I'll be able to by-pass the whole leaking, broken mess such that the Schrader valve basically goes directly to the air-bag and I can pump it up manually without interrupting a ride too badly.

As always, thank you in advance for any advice you may offer on better or BEST components to use in this system!

Mike



When my air comp. failed this summer I could air up the air bag with the valve under the seat but as soon as I started the machine it would exhaust all the air...With the help of someone on this forum, they said to unplug the single wire going to the dump valve...Unplugging this wire required the use of most of my four letter word vocabulary, but it worked...I was able to air up the system and ride until my dealer made the repairs...

Over the winter I plan on making a disconnect that is accessible under the seat so when this happens the next time I can easily unplug this and air up the bag manually with the small air comp. I carry in the trunk...

If any company is going to make a retrofit kit for our Spyders I would like to have one in stock for the next failure...Please keep me advised...

larryd 2014 RTS

[R FUN]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger

[gerard]

:shocked::hun: You're the first person to use the word "prevalent"; why??
How many have failed? I don't recall seeing all that many 2014 gripes over the bags... nojoke

Bob, My choice of the word "prevalent" stems from the apparent number of riders who have expressed their displeasure with this matter in their posts. Spyders are a very expensive purchase for some people and it's a pity to have what seems an apparent fault reoccur on a regular basis. One might expect such an issue on older machines but not on those barely out of warranty.

[lou49]

Bob, My choice of the word "prevalent" stems from the apparent number of riders who have expressed their displeasure with this matter in their posts. Spyders are a very expensive purchase for some people and it's a pity to have what seems an apparent fault reoccur on a regular basis. One might expect such an issue on older machines but not on those barely out of warranty.

:agree: I remember wheh i posted a thread title: why? meaning, why after so many complaints about this machines, do we keep buying them! Boy, did i got scolded, probably by some of the same people that have complaint at one time or another about some problems with their machines! I'll probably get scolded again, but i dont care. this is a good machine, but at 30k price tag, brp sould build a better product! just my opinion!

[Windagetray]

When my air comp. failed this summer I could air up the air bag with the valve under the seat but as soon as I started the machine it would exhaust all the air...With the help of someone on this forum, they said to unplug the single wire going to the dump valve...Unplugging this wire required the use of most of my four letter word vocabulary, but it worked...I was able to air up the system and ride until my dealer made the repairs...

Over the winter I plan on making a disconnect that is accessible under the seat so when this happens the next time I can easily unplug this and air up the bag manually with the small air comp. I carry in the trunk...

If any company is going to make a retrofit kit for our Spyders I would like to have one in stock for the next failure...Please keep me advised...

larryd 2014 RTS

I took a "guess" that the airbag had been damaged and added about 3/4 cup of "Slime" into the Schrader valve. I then pumped it up to about 60#'s with a bicycle pump. I don't "think" the air is exhausted by the bike but if it ever does, I'll look for this wire. I have everything I need to do my upgrade but, I got lots going on so, I'm hoping the Slime gets me by until I can make the system what I THOUGHT I paid for in the first place.

Thanks for your input!

[Windagetray]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger


I'm planning on installing a "bypass" hose with two extra valves so I can totally bypass a failed system without it being a major project.

[Ben Burped]

Seventy five thousand posts. We need to have a go fund me page to pay for a golden poster award for this achievement. Possibly add an award for the spouse that would tolerate this.

[trikermutha]

And I remember when he hit 60k..:roflblack:

Now back to the thread..Really good reading/Discussion..:thumbup:

[Windagetray]

When my air comp. failed this summer I could air up the air bag with the valve under the seat but as soon as I started the machine it would exhaust all the air...With the help of someone on this forum, they said to unplug the single wire going to the dump valve...Unplugging this wire required the use of most of my four letter word vocabulary, but it worked...I was able to air up the system and ride until my dealer made the repairs...

Over the winter I plan on making a disconnect that is accessible under the seat so when this happens the next time I can easily unplug this and air up the bag manually with the small air comp. I carry in the trunk...

If any company is going to make a retrofit kit for our Spyders I would like to have one in stock for the next failure...Please keep me advised...

larryd 2014 RTS


Anyone know if there is a fuse that would prevent discharge of manually input air from the A/B system from the Spyder's control of the system without disabling something else? Disabling the compressor would be OK because we assume if you are adding air manually, the compressor is shot anyhow.

[larryd]

Anyone know if there is a fuse that would prevent discharge of manually input air from the A/B system from the Spyder's control of the system without disabling something else? Disabling the compressor would be OK because we assume if you are adding air manually, the compressor is shot anyhow.


Windagetray, You have a PM...

[oldguyinTX]

My compressor died last August, and both it and the (leaking) bag were replaced under warranty. The new compressor died in late September. Back to the dealer. He orders a new one, installs it and guess what - IT'S DEFECTIVE!:banghead::banghead: I mean, really? So, he has ordered yet another one which he will test before he installs it. I have found during 3 years owning this bike that there are a LOT of cheap parts from both China & Mexico on these machines. Yet we pay top dollar for both these machines & OEM parts. Come on, BRP, get a clue.

[Windagetray]

My compressor died last August, and both it and the (leaking) bag were replaced under warranty. The new compressor died in late September. Back to the dealer. He orders a new one, installs it and guess what - IT'S DEFECTIVE!:banghead::banghead: I mean, really? So, he has ordered yet another one which he will test before he installs it. I have found during 3 years owning this bike that there are a LOT of cheap parts from both China & Mexico on these machines. Yet we pay top dollar for both these machines & OEM parts. Come on, BRP, get a clue.

I agree 100%. I have spent WAY too much money on my machine to have to basically buy it again IMMEDIATELY upon the warranty expiring. I've always been a believer in the thought that if a product is so poorly made or made of such poor quality components that and "extended warranty" make sense... what you have there is a product that us such a piece of crap that no one in their right mind should buy it anyhow. My 2014 RTS SE6 is exactly such a product. Why?

Riding 2 up on the STOCK bike was HORRIBLE with the front end bottoming out and the sloppy handling. It's nothing that appropriate front shock adjusters and an appropriately sized anti-sway bar wouldn't fix. SO, many hundreds of dollars and many after-market parts later, it's handling and riding the way it should have from the beginning.

Rear tire dead after 6,000 miles/1 season of riding and dealer will do nothing but install the same crappy tire for MANY hundreds of $$$'s

Drive belt- stone punch through because BRP doesn't have it properly protected. With 2 front tires positioned as they are it is LIKELY that stones shooting off the inside of the right front tire head directly to the belt-sprocket junction. DUH. Dealer does NOTHING. I spend $300+ on a new belt plus and after market "missing belt guard" which is very good but, alas not good enough. SO....looks like I'm spending another $300+ on a new belt and then must engineer a perfect belt guard.

The dealer from which I bought my brand new Spyder claims to have the laser alignment system. I don't know if they bothered to use it on brand new Spyders leaving their dealership but, after 8,000 miles, the front tires are cupping badly. I don't know what will have to be done about this but, once again, I'm sure it will cost ME more money and time making it right.

The crappy air bag system has died and once again am I out riding my new Spyder? NOPE. It sits until I get the HUNDREDS of dollars of new part to include upgrades and rock guards, better hose and connectors, etc. because BRP FAILED to make a quality machine.

HELL, I can hardly wait for the front windshield bracket to crack, for the computer to start throwing all kinds of crazy codes I'll have to spend THOUSANDS of dollars to have a dealer track down, to get all kinds of crazy "mystery vibrations", for it to start overheating or having the Throttle Pos sensor die, or start hearing those "crunching gears", or the speakers to die.......

I really like riding it WHEN....I can actually ride it. When I'm not saving up money for needed parts or waiting for mail-order parts or waiting until I can devote time to making my Spyder "right". I sorta assumed that's what my $30,000.00 was getting me. If I could go back and advise myself on what to buy, I would advise myself NEVER buy one of these machines. I waited a long time....salivating at how cool they looked and "supposedly" performed. I would have thought all the "bugs" were worked out by now. NOT!!

[Ben Burped]

I agree 100%. I have spent WAY too much money on my machine to have to basically buy it again IMMEDIATELY upon the warranty expiring. I've always been a believer in the thought that if a product is so poorly made or made of such poor quality components that and "extended warranty" make sense... what you have there is a product that us such a piece of crap that no one in their right mind should buy it anyhow. My 2014 RTS SE6 is exactly such a product. Why?

Riding 2 up on the STOCK bike was HORRIBLE with the front end bottoming out and the sloppy handling. It's nothing that appropriate front shock adjusters and an appropriately sized anti-sway bar wouldn't fix. SO, many hundreds of dollars and many after-market parts later, it's handling and riding the way it should have from the beginning.

Rear tire dead after 6,000 miles/1 season of riding and dealer will do nothing but install the same crappy tire for MANY hundreds of $$$'s

Drive belt- stone punch through because BRP doesn't have it properly protected. With 2 front tires positioned as they are it is LIKELY that stones shooting off the inside of the right front tire head directly to the belt-sprocket junction. DUH. Dealer does NOTHING. I spend $300+ on a new belt plus and after market "missing belt guard" which is very good but, alas not good enough. SO....looks like I'm spending another $300+ on a new belt and then must engineer a perfect belt guard.

The dealer from which I bought my brand new Spyder claims to have the laser alignment system. I don't know if they bothered to use it on brand new Spyders leaving their dealership but, after 8,000 miles, the front tires are cupping badly. I don't know what will have to be done about this but, once again, I'm sure it will cost ME more money and time making it right.

The crappy air bag system has died and once again am I out riding my new Spyder? NOPE. It sits until I get the HUNDREDS of dollars of new part to include upgrades and rock guards, better hose and connectors, etc. because BRP FAILED to make a quality machine.

HELL, I can hardly wait for the front windshield bracket to crack, for the computer to start throwing all kinds of crazy codes I'll have to spend THOUSANDS of dollars to have a dealer track down, to get all kinds of crazy "mystery vibrations", for it to start overheating or having the Throttle Pos sensor die, or start hearing those "crunching gears", or the speakers to die.......

I really like riding it WHEN....I can actually ride it. When I'm not saving up money for needed parts or waiting for mail-order parts or waiting until I can devote time to making my Spyder "right". I sorta assumed that's what my $30,000.00 was getting me. If I could go back and advise myself on what to buy, I would advise myself NEVER buy one of these machines. I waited a long time....salivating at how cool they looked and "supposedly" performed. I would have thought all the "bugs" were worked out by now. NOT!!

This is only a suggestion, but I suggest that you consider selling the motorcycle. It is not giving you pleasure and is causing you emotional pain. No machine is worth what you are going through. You made an assumption about a $30,000.00 machine and it apparently hasn't lived up to your expectations. Face it. It's time to sell.

[Windagetray]

This is only a suggestion, but I suggest that you consider selling the motorcycle. It is not giving you pleasure and is causing you emotional pain. No machine is worth what you are going through. You made an assumption about a $30,000.00 machine and it apparently hasn't lived up to your expectations. Face it. It's time to sell.


LOL! NO....it did NOT live up to my expectations and I sense that MANY on this board are not 100% satisfied with the effort, engineering, techniques and materials BRP used to create them. BUT....I just about have it re-manufactured to where it SHOULD have been in the first place. Had I know then what I know now, the dealer could have kept the damn thing. By next spring after all the emotional, and financial pain, I'll have the machine for which I THOUGHT I had already paid! No time soon....but ONE DAY...someone is going to be able to buy one hell of a good 2014 RTS!

People should know that one of these machines will end up costing them at least 30% more than the purchase price within the first three years of ownership. For what it's worth...do YOU think my machine (assuming I have not lied or exaggerated about the misgivings) would be living up to YOUR expectations?

[Roadster Renovations]

LOL! NO....it did NOT live up to my expectations and I sense that MANY on this board are not 100% satisfied with the effort, engineering, techniques and materials BRP used to create them. BUT....I just about have it re-manufactured to where it SHOULD have been in the first place. Had I know then what I know now, the dealer could have kept the damn thing. By next spring after all the emotional, and financial pain, I'll have the machine for which I THOUGHT I had already paid! No time soon....but ONE DAY...someone is going to be able to buy one hell of a good 2014 RTS!

People should know that one of these machines will end up costing them at least 30% more than the purchase price within the first three years of ownership. For what it's worth...do YOU think my machine (assuming I have not lied or exaggerated about the misgivings) would be living up to YOUR expectations?

Running my own automotive shop since 1999, I have seen some really pitiful engineering from some car manufacturers and it seems they all will use shortcuts and less-than-the-best quality parts. So, it's not uncommon.

I just purchased a '17 F3 Daytona AFTER having owned a '14 RT for over 2 years. Even knowing that yeah, they come with crappy tires, the side case hinges aren't as strong as they should be, and the airbag system, don't get me started..... I bought because that 1330 engine and transmission have been rock solid. I can fix and make better the other stuff. I want the strong Can Am frame, and that awesome power plant and transmission. That is something I can build on. That's why I bought Can Am again. And I would do it again in a heartbeat. They put the quality where it counts.

[bostondick]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger

Hi roger i have a 2012 rt on second bad compressor, i want to do the bypass you describe can you post or email me how you did it. Thanks Dick

[Saluda]

....... I bought because that 1330 engine and transmission have been rock solid. I can fix and make better the other stuff. I want the strong Can Am frame, and that awesome power plant and transmission. That is something I can build on. That's why I bought Can Am again. And I would do it again in a heartbeat. They put the quality where it counts.



The quality should not end there, if it really does then they should reduce their price. Unfortunately today quality is being sacrificed for profit. Things are not made to last as they used to.
Shouldn't be too hard on that person with complaints (issues). I'd be upset too. Selling, you usually take a hit.

[harrisrljc]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger

I have a 2014 RTs and I'm having the same problem. I assume the procedure should be somewhat similar. Please tell me how you did yours.
thanks

[irvin48]

can anyone verify that brp has a new updated compressor out now? i dont know what
the old part # was, but the dealer says my friend just got his 4th compressor in his
14[one new one was even junk] and brp told him it is a new design and improved compressor.
i sure would like to get the facts. i too put docs rock guard on. cheap insurance!--irv

[k7xi]

Well, the compressor died. And you know, the warranty expired about 3 months ago. I watched it being done on you tube a few times. So I ordered a Viair 098. Looking at the specs, it looked like a better fit than the 097. Anyway I took the bike all apart on Saturday and finished on Sunday. Now I work pretty slow and don't start early, so I think it could be done in a day. Hard part seemed to be getting the new compressor to fit in the rubber while holding the 2 clamps while trying to put a bolt through while standing on your head. 3 handed monkey stuff. I did have to change the compressor output, the wire connection and had to use longer bolts to hold the compressor in the bracket, just as stated in the videos. Almost had a heart attack until I put it in gear and released the e-brake.......working now!! My thanks to all of you who went down the path ahead of me.

[Roadster Renovations]

Hey, guys, I put a $75 Viair 98C air compressor on my 14 RT in early 2015. I had a pin hole leak in the bottom of the air bag. I put 4oz of Green Slime, theyn put a Air Ryde Rock Armour cup on the bottom of the airbag. Problem solved. Still running after 2 years and 30k miles. Works like brand new.

[larryd]

We just finished our first two days of riding this year and my BRP 2nd air compressor is not sounding good...I want to order a Viair compressor but I see there are two different part number compressors being used...What is the difference between the 97C and the 98C??? One better than the other???

[Grandpot]

I don't know the difference, but the 97c worked for me.

[irvin48]

mine is going in this week for the orange screen of death. the warranty[brp]has 3 weeks left. put away working
and first ride this year its gone.

[Roadster Renovations]

They are both the same. The 98C comes with an Omega bracket is the only difference I see. Need to change the outlet orientation 180 degrees.

[sboxster986]

Did you ever find out how to connect the schrade valve to the air bag. I see a couple have asked someone to explain but find no one that has told us how to do this "easy" fix. Sure would like to know. TIA

[Peter Aawen]

Sboxster, if you lift the seat you can see the Schrader valve. Underneath that fitting, there's an air hose that runs pretty much straight down to the air bag, only there's a tee fitting part way down that length of hose which tees in the compressor so it can add air & also connect the release valve so it can bleed excess air out when triggered. :)

All you need to do in order to by-pass all that and connect up the schrader valve directly to the air bag is to replace that tee fitting with a straight thru connector; or better yet, simply replace the entire OE length of hose, tee and all with a one piece length of hose about 2-300mm long - going straight from the schrader valve direct to the top of the air bag. You can go in via removing the RH side tupperware, or by dropping the rear tire & removing the mud-guard liner, altho some have said they've managed without doing either.... Regardless, it's really a Simple as task..... :lecturef_smilie:

You will probably also want to unplug the electrical connectors to the compressor & the bleed valve too, just so they don't keep on trying to do their thing despite no longer being connected into the air line between the schrader valve & the air bag. Job done. :thumbup:

Cheers :cheers:

[larryd]

Just Like Peter Aawen said...Yes, you'll need to unplug the dump valve...