Not Happy

[Zip]

Not happy with New Jersey Power-sports / Long Island power-sports right now. I purchased a used 2010 rt in NJ and they shipped it to Long Island for me. I was told that everything was good tune up, tires, brakes, oil change etc. I picked it up this past Sat and have been driving it around put about 100 miles on it. Yesterday a whole 4 days later I was fiddling around and decided to see how easy it was to get to the dipstick. Imagine my surprise to find that the bike was a quart low on oil.

On a side note Thanks to this forum I did not loose the O- ring, which can easily happen. Need to get a few spares of them.

[Bob Denman]

Did you follow the procedures for checking the oil EXACTLY as they are outlined in the owner's manual?
I hate to have to ask this, but if you don't follow what's in the book: you'll never get an accurate reading. nojoke

Engine fully warmed up, and at least 30 seconds of idling before starting to pull the stick...

[Zip]

Did you follow the procedures for checking the oil EXACTLY as they are outlined in the owner's manual?
I hate to have to ask this, but if you don't follow what's in the book: you'll never get an accurate reading. nojoke

Engine fully warmed up, and at least 30 seconds of idling before starting to pull the stick...

Thanks for the input, The owners manual says let it warm up for 30 sec. I let it idle until the temp gauge was at half way. At this point the dip stick was dry. I put in a half quart warmed it up again and it was at the add line.

[Bob Denman]

That's not exactly what it says...

3. With the engine already at normal
operating temperature, start engine
and let it run for at least 30 seconds.
NOTE:
Running engine for at least
30 seconds allows the suction oil
pump to drain the oil from the engine
crankcase back into the oil tank. Not
carrying out this step could result in
overfilling the engine oil.
4. Stop engine.
5. Unscrew and remove the oil dipstick.
rmo2010-001-062_a
1. Oil dipstick
2. Oil tank
6. Wipe off the dipstick.
7. Reinsert and
completely screw in
the dipstick to assure an accurate
reading.
8. Unscrew and remove the dipstick
again.
9. Check the oil level on the dipstick.

What we have found out, is that if you check the oil level with the engine cold, (And only a 30 second idle...), it will read at the bottom "Add Oil" line. When you warm the bike up to full operating temperatures; the same level of oil will read to the "full" line...

[BajaRon]

Thanks for the input, The owners manual says let it warm up for 30 sec. I let it idle until the temp gauge was at half way. At this point the dip stick was dry. I put in a half quart warmed it up again and it was at the add line.

If you do it this way you will get a low reading. Probably not a quart low. But you'll end up adding oil and be way over full.

Coolant temperature is not an accurate representation of your oil temperature. It takes a long time to get the oil up to operating temperature. It may never get there by idling your Spyder (which, by the way, is very bad for any engine).

You need to ride your Spyder for at least 15 minutes to get the oil to operating temperature. I usually check mine when I stop for fuel on a ride or when I get home. Checking your Spyder before a ride is probably the worst way to do it.

[murphybrown]

Sooooo very important to check oil EXACTLY as manual says. Ditto on what Ron says about idling engine. Your 998 engine is more of an oil "lover" than the 1330 engine...so be prepared to add oil 'often'. When I had my '10 RT it wanted oil added about every 500-800 miles (depended on my driving attitude/conditions)...and then averaged 8-10 oz. added. Just one of the nuances of the beast/engine. Enjoy your ryde...they are a great machine. :thumbup::yes:

[Bob Denman]

I found the thread that discussed a cold-engine oil check...

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?98642-1330-Engine-Oil-Level-Check

Please keep in mind that this is NOT a BRP-sanctioned method, but it seems to give consistent results... :thumbup:

[Chupaca]

The best way to check it is after a ryde when you get to your destination. This way you are set for the next leg or ryde as it may be. As stated the V-twins do use oil and you will always have to add between changes and as Murphy Brown states 500 +/- is a good reference point...Not to say they did not fill it properly and it was low....double check...:thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The best way to check it is after a ryde when you get to your destination. This way you are set for the next leg or ryde as it may be. As stated the V-twins do use oil and you will always have to add between changes and as Murphy Brown states 500 +/- is a good reference point...Not to say they did not fill it properly and it was low....double check...:thumbup:
:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:: agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::agree::a gree::agree::agree: .......This is without a doubt guaranteed to give you an accurate reading .....plus it doesn't WASTE TIME ..... and you know you are good to go for NEXT ride !!!!!!! ...... PS, make sue you are on level ground ... Mike :thumbup:

[Cruzr Joe]

If you overfill it, be prepared to remove some oil. a little low is as bad or worse than overfilled


Cruzr Joe

[ARtraveler]

The posters above have you covered pretty well. Best time to check the oil--IMO--is after you have completed a ride. You will have the operating temperature up and then follow the directions per the manual from that. Oil checks on the :ani29: are a PIA, but a necessary evil. The 998 does use oil and the 1330's do not. :thumbup:

[SteveLaoyster]

Good that this thread was started. I checked my oil recently & found that it is very difficult to read the level of oil on the dip stick on a '16 RT-S. Anyone else having this problem & anyone have a solution??? Thanks!
:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: