1330 Engine Oil Level Check

[robhowen]

Has anyone found a reasonably accurate way to check the engine oil level besides getting it up to temperature and then letting it idle for 10 minutes? Is there a faster, but perhaps a bit less accurate method? I'd rather check it more often with reasonable accuracy than never given the current instructions.

Rob

[Bob Denman]

That's NOT what the book says...

3. With the engine already at normal
operating temperature, start engine
and let it run for at least 30 seconds.
NOTE:
Running engine for at least
30 seconds allows the suction oil
pump to drain the oil from the engine
crankcase back into the oil tank. Not
carrying out this step could result in
overfilling the engine oil.
4. Stop engine.
5. Unscrew and remove the oil dipstick.

[jcthorne]

I have found checking the oil cold, after a 30 second idle period, will show the oil level just below the lower (add oil) bump on the dipstick. The same oil content will show in the upper range of normal once warmed up to operating temp. Just below full.

This same procedure for checking the oil cold used to appear in the owners manuals years ago but was removed due to confusion.

[Bob Denman]

Hi JC!
Could you post us some pictures that document that? :dontknow:
Ideally: one taken with the engine cold and just idled a little bit...
And another one after the engine has been fully warmed-up?

(Not that I don't trust you: I just like to verify what I've been told...)

[JayBros]

DIY: take the time to measure the oil level once at the end of a long ride after letting it sit per the instructions from BRPCare in this link: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73737-Proper-Oil-Level-Verification-Procedure-on-1330-engined-Spyders&highlight=level+verification

If it's correct let the bike cool overnight and recheck the following morning. Whatever level it reads cold should be a good reference point.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

DIY: take the time to measure the oil level once at the end of a long ride after letting it sit per the instructions from BRPCare in this link: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73737-Proper-Oil-Level-Verification-Procedure-on-1330-engined-Spyders&highlight=level+verification

If it's correct let the bike cool overnight and recheck the following morning. Whatever level it reads cold should be a good reference point.
" Bingo " - this is the common sense method so :agree: :agree: :agree: ......... Mike :thumbup:

[Trbayth]

DIY: take the time to measure the oil level once at the end of a long ride after letting it sit per the instructions from BRPCare in this link: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73737-Proper-Oil-Level-Verification-Procedure-on-1330-engined-Spyders&highlight=level+verification

If it's correct let the bike cool overnight and recheck the following morning. Whatever level it reads cold should be a good reference point.


Let me play devil's advocate for a minute.

If you follow the book to check the level, then let the bike cool overnight without starting the engine again, shouldn't the level be exactly the same? And if it's not, meaning the level changed on its own as the engine cooled, isn't it almost impossible to estimate by how much it will change? And couldn't it theoretically be different each time?

[robhowen]

Bob, thank you. This is what I tend to do, but I was beginning to doubt if this was correct given all that is posted here about idling for 10 minutes (2 fan cycles), etc. I guess I'll keep doing what I'm doing and assuming that it's reasonably correct. I do oil changes about every 6K miles and I've not had to add oil yet between oil changes.

Rob

[Bob Denman]

Let me play devil's advocate for a minute.

If you follow the book to check the level, then let the bike cool overnight without starting the engine again, shouldn't the level be exactly the same? And if it's not, meaning the level changed on its own as the engine cooled, isn't it almost impossible to estimate by how much it will change? And couldn't it theoretically be different each time?
The key to this proposed method; is that you STILL have to let the engine idle for at least thirty seconds, before pulling the stick. That gives the oil pump time to do it's thing, and get to a reliably level of oil in the tank.

[SpyderAnn01]

The key to this proposed method; is that you STILL have to let the engine idle for at least thirty seconds, before pulling the stick. That gives the oil pump time to do it's thing, and get to a reliably level of oil in the tank.

And that is key! I checked mine the other day and hadn't let it idle do the dip stick showed no oil. Fired it up and let it idle then rechecked it and all was good.

[robhowen]

Understood.
Rob


The key to this proposed method; is that you STILL have to let the engine idle for at least thirty seconds, before pulling the stick. That gives the oil pump time to do it's thing, and get to a reliably level of oil in the tank.

[robhowen]

Thanks for all of your inputs.

I measured the oil level cold and it showed at the minimum level bulb on the dipstick. I then rode the bike to full operating temperature and came back home and let it idle for 30 seconds before turning it off and checking the oil. The oil level at this point is now at maximum level. This seems consistent with the variety of inputs I got from all of you.

Thanks,
Rob

[Bob Denman]

This information is interesting and useful... Thanks! :thumbup:

The key thing to remember:
If you check the oil level "cold", and it's at the "Add" mark...
:lecturef_smilie: DON'T! :shocked:
It's already perfect! :D

[SteveLaoyster]

I checked my oil recently & found that it is very difficult to read the level of oil on the dip stick on a '16 RT-S. I tried in sunlight & in the shade of the garage & it was still hard to read the level. I think it was just off the max level bump. Anyone else having this problem & anyone have a solution??? Thanks!

[SteveandBelinda]

Yes, just bought this 2014 RT, and just had the 3000 miles service done. I checked several times on my 900 mile journey home, just to see if it had changed, and I have still yet to be able to see the oil on the dipstick. Only thing I can see is the oil in the little holes, and that is it. The clean oil is pretty close to same shade as the dipstick.


I checked my oil recently & found that it is very difficult to read the level of oil on the dip stick on a '16 RT-S. I tried in sunlight & in the shade of the garage & it was still hard to read the level. I think it was just off the max level bump. Anyone else having this problem & anyone have a solution??? Thanks!

[SteveLaoyster]

Yes, just bought this 2014 RT, and just had the 3000 miles service done. I checked several times on my 900 mile journey home, just to see if it had changed, and I have still yet to be able to see the oil on the dipstick. Only thing I can see is the oil in the little holes, and that is it. The clean oil is pretty close to same shade as the dipstick.

:agree: Looking for the oil in the little holes was about the only way I found where the oil level was. Thanks!

[Bob Denman]

Take a piece of paper towel, and carefully set the dipstick down on it.
(Don't move anything around!!!)
You should be able to see the oil on the paper towel, and just match that up, to where it was on the dipstick. :thumbup:

[SteveLaoyster]

Take a piece of paper towel, and carefully set the dipstick down on it.
(Don't move anything around!!!)
You should be able to see the oil on the paper towel, and just match that up, to where it was on the dipstick. :thumbup:

That will work too. Thanks Bob!

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: My eyes are bad enough, that only bats are jealous of me! :D
...And this technique helps me to see the oil level! :thumbup:

[Zummyannie]

DIY: take the time to measure the oil level once at the end of a long ride after letting it sit per the instructions from BRPCare in this link: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73737-Proper-Oil-Level-Verification-Procedure-on-1330-engined-Spyders&highlight=level+verification

If it's correct let the bike cool overnight and recheck the following morning. Whatever level it reads cold should be a good reference point.

I followed the direction to check a warm engine and followed up with a cold check in the morning today. Both reading read above the max and onto the rod itself. I used an extractor to take out 8 oz and it now reads half way between the min and max where it should be. When I had my 3000 mile service I said I wanted the left over oil from the kit and was told it took all 6 quarts. Now I know they just put it all in which is to much oil

[JayBros]

My prior comment about doing the engine hot and day later cold check is purely speculation; I've never wasted my time trying to confirm it works because I always check at the end of the ride, letting the engine idle for the 10 min while I get out of my gear and then forget it until the next check in 1K miles or so. As Steve from BRPCare says the three scavenger pumps and the oil pressure pump have to do their things. I have no idea what the scavenger pumps are doing and only assume that they are equalizing the level of oil somehow that results in an allegedly accurate level according to BRP. My standard fill after an oil and filter change is 5qt plus 4oz. That leaves me with a hot level that's just a bit below the Max bulb on the dipstick.

[Firefly]

My prior comment about doing the engine hot and day later cold check is purely speculation; I've never wasted my time trying to confirm it works because I always check at the end of the ride, letting the engine idle for the 10 min while I get out of my gear and then forget it until the next check in 1K miles or so. As Steve from BRPCare says the three scavenger pumps and the oil pressure pump have to do their things. I have no idea what the scavenger pumps are doing and only assume that they are equalizing the level of oil somehow that results in an allegedly accurate level according to BRP. My standard fill after an oil and filter change is 5qt plus 4oz. That leaves me with a hot level that's just a bit below the Max bulb on the dipstick.

Idling for 10 minutes when the engine is already hot makes zero sense and is simply not necessary. 30 seconds is all that is needed and you should check the level within 60 seconds of shutdown.


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[Bob Denman]

144549
Having the oil in a separate tank requires different protocols, than having it in the crankcase... nojoke

[Highwayman2013]

It's just easier to check it when you get back from a ride.

[Bob Denman]

yup! :agree: :thumbup:

[Roadster Renovations]

Has anybody ever actually had to add oil in their 1330? In 37k miles it has not used a drop of oil.

[Bob Denman]

I haven't either; but my mileage is a lot less than yours. :opps: