stripped oil plug

[Semper Fi]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.

[Copperman]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.

Look at goldplug.com

Theirs are about $40.00 for the pair.

[cptjam]

Buy the Dimple or Gold plug, and be done with it. I'm not finding a quality alternative, and I do lots of oil changes. Go first class, Marine!

[Lew L]

I switched over on the first oil change. Honestly cant remember which one. When I did the next oil change ( dealer did the first, checked off and signed the owners manual) it was soooooo easy. No guessing weather it's a hesx or a torx, no stripped out bolt, easy torque setup.
Stripped oil plugs cause::::::::

Kaos

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
Dear Mr. Semper Fi,...... in order to assist additional info would be most helpful !!!! ....Is the " T " tool referred to a TORX head tool ? ....Also what Spyder ( year and model ) are you working on ????. And the OIL PLUGS don't strip, they are made from steel .....it's the aluminum case that strips out !!! .... you have a bigger problem than think...........Also I don't think the expensive DIMPLE brand costs that much. ( the GOLD brand is even less ) .....So what brand costs $63.00 ...............We can help , if you help us .....Mike :thumbup:...................PS, thank you for your service :firstplace:

[beefybudds]

I would get a gold plug.
I had a dimple plug snap in 2 leaving half the plug in the clutch cover. It was a $1100 job to get replaced.
There is also another forum member who had the same plug snap in the same spot.
I did compare both dimple and gold plugs and the gold plug seems like a better quality product.
Just a note that the dealer installed the dimple plug during first oil change.
They claimed they did not over torqued the plug.
Also the member who had the same problem happen also claimed he didn't over torqued the plug.

[Semper Fi]

Dear Mr. Semper Fi,...... in order to assist additional info would be most helpful !!!! ....Is the " T " tool referred to a TORX head tool ? ....Also what Spyder ( year and model ) are you working on ????. And the OIL PLUGS don't strip, they are made from steel .....it's the aluminum case that strips out !!! .... you have a bigger problem than think...........Also I don't think the expensive DIMPLE brand costs that much. ( the GOLD brand is even less ) .....So what brand costs $63.00 ...............We can help , if you help us .....Mike :thumbup:...................PS, thank you for your service :firstplace:
Yes the "T" does mean torx tool. I have a 2015 F3-S and yes the head of the drain plug is stripped out. I looked at the dimple brand and found them to be $63.00. That is way to much. IMHO

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

The Gold Plugs MP-01 and MP-18 are a total of $40 without shipping. Go to goldplug.com

[palover]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.

Striped my T plug as well on 1st oil change. Spend the money and buy the Dimple set.

[Bob Denman]

It baffles me, why folks will spend $20,000 or so on a motorcycle, and then balk at the cost of an aftermarket accessory for it...nojoke

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes the "T" does mean torx tool. I have a 2015 F3-S and yes the head of the drain plug is stripped out. I looked at the dimple brand and found them to be $63.00. That is way to much. IMHO
OK now I know what your issue is, and the answer is the GOLD PLUGS , they have strong magnets and work just as well as the Dimple brand.................I only re-placed the large PLUG ( the Torx ) the small one ( HEX insert ) was never an issue when using a Ratchet .................Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It baffles me, why folks will spend $20,000 or so on a motorcycle, and then balk at the cost of an aftermarket accessory for it...nojoke
I doubt anyone thinks of the DRAIN PLUGS ( Dimple or Gold brand ) as an accessory or Farkle or Mod .....jmho, Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

I doubt anyone thinks of the DRAIN PLUGS ( Dimple or Gold brand ) as an accessory or Farkle or Mod .....jmho, Mike :thumbup:

:D If it didn't come stock on the bike: it's got to be called something... :thumbup:
While it's certainly not as "sexy" a piece, as is Lamont's By-pass pipe: it still will have value...
I've got a set of "Dimples" here in my desk. I was supposed to have them installed with my oil change in August, but I completely forgot to take them up to the Dealership... :opps:

[Semper Fi]

I just ordered a set of plugs, gold plugs, on EBay. They cost $43.00. That is better than the $63.00.

[Bob Denman]

:congrats: :clap: They're a good choice! :2thumbs:

[Semper Fi]

the oil plugs that were $63.00 were the dimple plugs. I went to their website.

[Roadster Renovations]

Yes the "T" does mean torx tool. I have a 2015 F3-S and yes the head of the drain plug is stripped out. I looked at the dimple brand and found them to be $63.00. That is way to much. IMHO

Hey, fellow Marine! Diego or Parris??? I did mine at PI in '74. Don't mind Mike, he is working on his social skills......right, Mike??? :gaah:

[Sccar]

Which ones do u need for the F3S. Gold plug has 3 listed for the F3S; MP-01, MP-02 & MP-18

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hey, fellow Marine! Diego or Parris??? I did mine at PI in '74. Don't mind Mike, he is working on his social skills......right, Mike??? :gaah:
Doc, if trying to get the OP to give a better explanation of what He's referring to rather than just me doing the SWAG thing is somehow NOT PROPER ....well just chalk that up to me a Cop for 37 years where you just weren't allowed to GUESS what someone said :yikes:........ Mike :thumbup:

[Semper Fi]

Hey, fellow Marine! Diego or Parris??? I did mine at PI in '74. Don't mind Mike, he is working on his social skills......right, Mike??? :gaah:

I did the PI in '83. Semper Fi

[Semper Fi]

Doc, if trying to get the OP to give a better explanation of what He's referring to rather than just me doing the SWAG thing is somehow NOT PROPER ....well just chalk that up to me a Cop for 37 years where you just weren't allowed to GUESS what someone said :yikes:........ Mike :thumbup:

I got out of the Corps in '93 and worked in a Federal Penn for 22 years. I had to deal with all the crap you put in jail!!

[spyderryder53]

I would get a gold plug.
I had a dimple plug snap in 2 leaving half the plug in the clutch cover. It was a $1100 job to get replaced.
There is also another forum member who had the same plug snap in the same spot.
I did compare both dimple and gold plugs and the gold plug seems like a better quality product.
Just a note that the dealer installed the dimple plug during first oil change.
They claimed they did not over torqued the plug.
Also the member who had the same problem happen also claimed he didn't over torqued the plug.

that was me, my dimple plug broke in half right at the magnet the very first time I put it in and it WAS NOT over torqued.
I think some may be defective. VERY EXPENSIVE OIL CHANGE.
Leon

[jcthorne]

Yes the "T" does mean torx tool. I have a 2015 F3-S and yes the head of the drain plug is stripped out. I looked at the dimple brand and found them to be $63.00. That is way to much. IMHO

On your F3, one plug is torx, the other is hex. What sort of tool were you using? You need a torx drive socket and ratchet, not a key. If the head striped out, the wrong tool was used or not fully inserted.

I do not recommend the dimple plugs. They are worse than the OEM in terms of failure. Having done MANY spyder oil changes, the OEM plugs are just fine if you use the right tools to remove and install them. Dimple refused to stand behind their defective product. Once you see a snapped off Dimple plug, its easy to see why they fail from the very thin wall under the o-ring. Bad product.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

On your F3, one plug is torx, the other is hex. What sort of tool were you using? You need a torx drive socket and ratchet, not a key. If the head striped out, the wrong tool was used or not fully inserted.

I do not recommend the dimple plugs. They are worse than the OEM in terms of failure. Having done MANY spyder oil changes, the OEM plugs are just fine if you use the right tools to remove and install them. Dimple refused to stand behind their defective product. Once you see a snapped off Dimple plug, its easy to see why they fail from the very thin wall under the o-ring. Bad product............JC, I have the GOLD brand and I've seen pics of the Magnet in the Dimple brand ...... It looks like the Dimple has a larger magnet and I think this is the problem .......the larger magnet causes them to drill a larger hole in the plug , thus making the walls thinner, thus the failure...................jmho.......Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

I do not recommend the dimple plugs. They are worse than the OEM in terms of failure. Having done MANY spyder oil changes, the OEM plugs are just fine if you use the right tools to remove and install them. Dimple refused to stand behind their defective product. Once you see a snapped off Dimple plug, its easy to see why they fail from the very thin wall under the o-ring. Bad product.

:shocked: I almost wish that I hadn't seen this... Are the Gold Plugs any better? :dontknow:

[Bob Denman]

Which ones do u need for the F3S. Gold plug has 3 listed for the F3S; MP-01, MP-02 & MP-18

If I'm reading things correctly... you need the 01, the 02, and the 18. :thumbup:
BUT! Check that with someone who knows for sure... :opps:

[JayBros]

Yeh, Bob, JC's comment can be scary. I'll find out in the not too distant future with the Dimple crankcase plug I installed at my last oil change. Oh well!

I did notice on my OEM crankcase plug that the Torx splines are only about 4.24 mm deep while the bored hole is a shade over 8 mm deep. If the splines were deeper it might prevent some rounding. Mo betta still, be certain the Torx bit is straignt and fully seated.

[Grayfox]

Pi in 65 Semper Fi

[spyderryder53]

138208
that was me, my dimple plug broke in half right at the magnet the very first time I put it in and it WAS NOT over torqued.
I think some may be defective. VERY EXPENSIVE OIL CHANGE.
Leon

photo of dimple plug that broke off at magnet

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

138208

photo of dimple plug that broke off at magnet
.Thanks, but could you turn them so we can see the flat surface ( and take new Pics ) I think the size of the Magnet they used weakened the PLUG to much ....... I think the GOLD plug magnet is smaller ......Mike :thumbup:

[kbwitt]

It baffles me, why folks will spend $20,000 or so on a motorcycle, and then balk at the cost of an aftermarket accessory for it...nojoke

What baffles me is why would a company who has to know about the plug problems keep charging as much as 20,000. _32,000 and not address the iissue and solve the problem that would probably not cost them a dollar more to solve.
Kenn

[jcthorne]

...........JC, I have the GOLD brand and I've seen pics of the Magnet in the Dimple brand ...... It looks like the Dimple has a larger magnet and I think this is the problem .......the larger magnet causes them to drill a larger hole in the plug , thus making the walls thinner, thus the failure...................jmho.......Mike :thumbup:


This may very well be true. I have not seen a snapped off gold plug. What you say about a smaller magnet would make sense as it leaves more metal at the weakest point.

[spyderryder53]

138218
.Thanks, but could you turn them so we can see the flat surface ( and take new Pics ) I think the size of the Magnet they used weakened the PLUG to much ....... I think the GOLD plug magnet is smaller ......Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

138218 IMHO, the size magnet they used caused the threaded section to become so thin, it could not support even a small amount of TORQUE. It would be interesting to compare a GOLD PLUG .... it wouldn't have to be broken, just a PIC of the flat side ....... to compare the wall thickness ...................Mike :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

That is the exact same spot my dimple plug snapped. I purchased the gold plugs and purchased another set of dimple plugs to compare the 2. The gold plugs are a better quality in my opinion. I felt confident enough with them that I installed then in my Spyder. I sold my dimple plug.
The broken half with the magnet of my dimple is still in my clutch cover that I had to have replaced at a cost of $1100.
The owner of dimple "Richard" told me there was no way his plug would snap under correct torque but I thing he is wrong.Since you have BOTH close at hand ....is the magnet in the GOLD PLUG smaller then the DIMPLE ? ? ? ......Thanks ......Mike :thumbup:

[beefybudds]

Since you have BOTH close at hand ....is the magnet in the GOLD PLUG smaller then the DIMPLE ? ? ? ......Thanks ......Mike :thumbup:
The magnet on the gold plug is smaller. The dimple plug that is breaking is the clutch cover plug. Not the one with the 2 o-rings.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The magnet on the gold plug is smaller. The dimple plug that is breaking is the clutch cover plug. Not the one with the 2 o-rings.
Thanks for looking and reporting back .......Doesn't matter which plug !!! ..... If the GOLD plug has a smaller Magnet , then the thread walls are thicker and less likely to break !!!!! ...............:yes::yes::yes: .... Mike :thumbup:

[beefybudds]

On your F3, one plug is torx, the other is hex. What sort of tool were you using? You need a torx drive socket and ratchet, not a key. If the head striped out, the wrong tool was used or not fully inserted.

I do not recommend the dimple plugs. They are worse than the OEM in terms of failure. Having done MANY spyder oil changes, the OEM plugs are just fine if you use the right tools to remove and install them. Dimple refused to stand behind their defective product. Once you see a snapped off Dimple plug, its easy to see why they fail from the very thin wall under the o-ring. Bad product.
I stand corrected.. I guess the other dimple plug with the o-rings is also failing.

[spyderryder53]

138225
.Thanks, but could you turn them so we can see the flat surface ( and take new Pics ) I think the size of the Magnet they used weakened the PLUG to much ....... I think the GOLD plug magnet is smaller ......Mike :thumbup:
Mike I used my caliper and here is what I got. outside dia.of threaded area 0.465, outside dia. of magnet 0.320 which means 0.145 is the diam. of both side of thread so 1/2 of that is 0.072.5 total for the outer thickness of the wall.
also I noticed that the magnet is sticking out a lot more than the pic of a new one not sure if that was from trying to remove it or if it was like that when I got it.( I couldn`t move it when I tried ) I THOUGHT IT WAS STICKING OUT when I got but can`t be sure. (I will give dimple the benefit of the doubt and say it moved when it was removed)

IF SOMEONE GETS ONE THAT IS STICKING OUT LIKE IN THE PIC DON`T USE IT BECAUSE THERE IS A 0.128 " hollow gap between the magnet and plug.
Leon

[Aracknoid]

Just a question: Why are dimple bolts so expensive? Is Dimple a bolt manufactuer or just a jobber?

I made my own oil plugs with magnets and use magnets on the out side of the oil reserve. Prevention
is cheap.

Good Luck

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: I think that I might just leave the Dimples in the desk, and order some Gold Plugs... nojoke
One thing that I DON'T want; is trouble!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:shocked: I think that I might just leave the Dimples in the desk, and order some Gold Plugs... nojoke
One thing that I DON'T want; is trouble! Bob, why people even use a Torque wrench on an OIL PLUG is beyond :banghead: ..... The amount of OIL pressure isn't very much so wrench tight is plenty tight enough.....if you see a drop of OIL on the floor tighten it a bit more.......jmho...Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:D Do you actually think that the Missus would let me anywhere NEAR the bike with a torque wrench? :D
She barely lets me check the tire pressures... :opps:
I'd be worried about what the techs at my dealership would do... nojoke

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

:D Do you actually think that the Missus would let me anywhere NEAR the bike with a torque wrench? :D
She barely lets me check the tire pressures... :opps:
I'd be worried about what the techs at my dealership would do... nojoke
.:lecturef_smilie:....Now that's something I can understand :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: ............ Due to this thread I think everyone has learned something very important ......Maybe even " DIMPLE " :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:..........The small difference in Magnet size and it's ability to attract metal particles ( which is infinitesimal ) appears to make a MAJOR difference in the over-all STRENGTH of the THREAD WALL ....... and not just mho .... Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

I once opined to her, that it would be nice to change the Spyder's oil on my own...

:shocked: It got ReAlLy ugly!

138236

There's not a whole lot of things, that I wish I had never said... THAT; was one of them! :opps:

[AeroPilot]

As long as the "red wagon" is ready to go, parts don't fall off (blue threadlok is my friend), and I can show my wife that my time is cheaper than the shop time I get to practice my wrenchin!

And I can buy a few new tools along the way.. it's all good! (thanks to the hints and guidance from SL)

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: I envy you... :bowdown:

[Semper Fi]

I got the "gold plugs" today and put them in. They fit great, look great, and work well. I am so glad to have gotten them today, my Spyder sat for 3 days and I couldn't ride it. The plugs are so much easier to tighten and remove, they have a head on each. One is a 15mm and the other is a 17 mm. In about 9000 miles, I am sure they will be very easy to remove.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I got the "gold plugs" today and put them in. They fit great, look great, and work well. I am so glad to have gotten them today, my Spyder sat for 3 days and I couldn't ride it. The plugs are so much easier to tighten and remove, they have a head on each. One is a 15mm and the other is a 17 mm. In about 9000 miles, I am sure they will be very easy to remove.........Even tho they have that great HEX head ..... when you put the socket on give it a decent rap with a hammer to break the varnish SEAL........Mike :thumbup:

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

I once opined to her, that it would be nice to change the Spyder's oil on my own...

:shocked: It got ReAlLy ugly!

138236

There's not a whole lot of things, that I wish I had never said... THAT; was one of them! :opps:

I guess I am lucky. When it comes to any of our vehicles, as long as I don't get us stranded, Pebbles don't care what I do to our machines.

[Sccar]

I got the "gold plugs" today and put them in. They fit great, look great, and work well. I am so glad to have gotten them today, my Spyder sat for 3 days and I couldn't ride it. The plugs are so much easier to tighten and remove, they have a head on each. One is a 15mm and the other is a 17 mm. In about 9000 miles, I am sure they will be very easy to remove.

What are the part numbers for the Gold Plugs?

Thank you

[JKMSPYDER]

www.goldplug.com. I love mine. Great investment!

[GDA]

I will remove the dimple plug next time i change my oil:yikes::yikes::yikes:

[Ex-Rocket]

Ok, I'm still confused. Could somebody list the 2 gold plugs part numbers to do an oil change. I have the dimple plugs in there now and I'm due for an oil change. Are they the MP-01 & MP-18 that is needed for the 1330 engine?

[Bob Denman]

That's what I just ordered for my RT... :thumbup:

I'm chickening-out, and leaving the Dimples in my desk... :shocked:

[Semper Fi]

That is the 2 I got my F3-S. I am sure they will work for you.

[Bob Denman]

Can I have your Dimples, I may need spares.
PM me your mailing address... they're yours! :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

Received, and :thumbup:

[beefybudds]

PM me your mailing address... they're yours! :thumbup:
Very good choice to get rid of them. You couldn't pay me enough to use dimple plugs.
I guess I would take $1100 to use clutch cover plug and $2000 to use main engine plug.
I'm very happy with the gold plug.

[beefybudds]

FWIW, in a sad way, had they done a better method on the original design from Rotax / BRP the issue would not be a concern. Using a metal gasket to seal a drain in the modern era is for cost cutting. The drain plug itself and the mating surface should have been designed to use a Loc-O-Seal or an O ring. With that system snug plus is all it takes.

The measured dimensions on the the Dimple Plug of over .070" is not bad. Also consider that the depth of the thinned portion is not to the bottom of the threaded area. So under torque, several threads of full strength are securing the drain plug.

The entire breakage issue has happened and is real, no doubt.

Unless the Dimple drain plugs are failing immediately on install and not during removal this would indicate a weak drain lug. If however the drain plug fails on removal, possibly the drain plug has bonded itself via the oil or galled to the aluminum, causing it to have a failure not related to tension while installing, but rather a torsional force and tension while being removed.
My dimple failed on install as did spyderryder53

[hillrider]

My 2 cents. I have a '15 RTS, the MP01 listed for the transmission does NOT fit my transmission. (I'll stop there).

[Ex-Rocket]

My 2 cents. I have a '15 RTS, the MP01 listed for the transmission does NOT fit my transmission. (I'll stop there).

Why didn't the gold plug MP-01 not fit? Please explain.:pray: This is getting very confusing.

[Ex-Rocket]

My dimple failed on install as did spyderryder53

How do you know when the plug failed? Explain please..

[spyderryder53]

How do you know when the plug failed? Explain please..

When i installed my plug i got it snug and then it seemed to loosen up, when i took it off it just spun .it broke off between the magnet and the base
It could be beefybudds and l got defective plugs.
Leon

[beefybudds]

How do you know when the plug failed? Explain please..
Dealer installed mine and stated that as they started to tighten the plug it started to just spin.
Yes the dealer could of over torqued but with multiple people having same issue I believe the plug was faulty.

[hillrider]

Why didn't the gold plug MP-01 not fit? Please explain.:pray: This is getting very confusing.

MP01 was too large.

[Bob Denman]

Why didn't the gold plug MP-01 not fit? Please explain.:pray: This is getting very confusing.
:agree: That's the one that their locator suggests... :dontknow:

[Ex-Rocket]

Went to website and for the 1330 engine I found the following plugs. MP-01 transmission plug, MP-02 oil reservoir plug and MP-18 1330 engine which this plug has the double O-rings. So I think that what is needed is the MP-02 & MP-18. I don't know what the transmission plug is. Others chime in their thoughts. Or is someone has ordered the gold plugs and know they fit correctly please tell us which one's you bought.

[beefybudds]

Went to website and for the 1330 engine I found the following plugs. MP-01 transmission plug, MP-02 oil reservoir plug and MP-18 1330 engine which this plug has the double O-rings. So I think that what is needed is the MP-02 & MP-18. I don't know what the transmission plug is. Others chime in their thoughts. Or is someone has ordered the gold plugs and know they fit correctly please tell us which one's you bought.
I purchased the mp-01 and mp-18 for my 2014 RTS.
It could be they engraved the plugs with the wrong model number.
The mp-02 is even bigger than the mp-01
mp-01 12mm
mp-02 14mm
Also there website search is not correct. There are not 3 drain plugs for the 1330 motor.

[Semper Fi]

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Price:
US $37.99

This is what I bought my plugs with last week.

[Semper Fi]

I am not the best at coping EBay but, now you know what to buy.

[Bob Denman]

Base upon what I read in their website: the MP-01 and MP-18 drain plugs; are the way to go! :thumbup:

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

Base upon what I read in their website: the MP-01 and MP-18 drain plugs; are the way to go! :thumbup:

I have the MP-01 and it fit in my bike.

[Ex-Rocket]

Ok, I guess its the MP-01 & MP-18 that most people say will fit the 1330 engine.:yes::yes::yes: I will order today

[zuni]

And why not this one from a SL Vendor? http://store.valueaccessories.net/MagneticOilDrainPlugs.aspx at a whopping $6.

CJ JAX

[jaherbst]

Removing drain plugs and not over tightening when installing #101

Trying to figure out why so many here are stripping out (threads) plugs.

1. Turning the wrong direction when removing? Righty tighty- Lefty Loosey! (facing the plug--remember the plug is upside down)

2. Cross/threading when installing?

3. Over torquing when installing (I have never used a torque wrench to install) moderately tight and check for oil leaks after running) Torquing steel to an aluminum pan is a DS idea.

In my thirty years on the farm, working as a mechanic and aviation Mech (Technician for you young kids out there) and owning several hundred vehicles and toys in my lifetime I have never "stripped a plug" for the above reasons or any other reasons. ( I have made up several new swear words and thrown wrenches but never stripped a plug) IMO most are turning the plug the wrong direction (tightening to remove) and stripping the threads. More than a new plug here is needed to repair. Several different ways to do this.

Please for your next oil change lay on your back next to the ole spyder look up and decide right there if it is "lefty loosey" before you try that oversized wrench on the drain plug. Laying on your back, hand in the air, turn your fingers counter clock wise. That is how the plug is loosened.

On any plug always use a new crushed washer or O ring and one that is specified. Never reuse the
washer or O ring that you removed regardless of how good it looks.

One mentionable here is the factory installs these plugs dry (no oil) at the factory. Oil is added after install. The above is even more important in the first oil change as it will be seated dry and may be more difficult to remove and thus damage the threads. Subsequent changes will be easier because you ARE NOT GOING TO OVER TIGHTEN ARE YOU? Small wrench and never more than moderate hand tightening.

Jack

[lou49]

Which ones do u need for the F3S. Gold plug has 3 listed for the F3S; MP-01, MP-02 & MP-18
MP 01and MP 18on the gold plug for the f3! check with the seller to make sure!

[JimVonBaden]

I find this "don't use a torque wrench" idea interesting. I have a fairly calibrated arm, but I often use a torque wrench for critical fasteners.

[lou49]

Ok, I'm still confused. Could somebody list the 2 gold plugs part numbers to do an oil change. I have the dimple plugs in there now and I'm due for an oil change. Are they the MP-01 & MP-18 that is needed for the 1330 engine?
YUP!

[DrewNJ]

IMHO if you are not comfortable enough tightening drain plugs without the use of a torque wrench, and/or are stripping oil drain plugs/plug holes, then you should really consider leaving the tools in the toolbox and letting someone else change the oil for you.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[JimVonBaden]

IMHO if you are not comfortable enough tightening drain plugs without the use of a torque wrench, and/or are stripping oil drain plugs/plug holes, then you should really consider leaving the tools in the toolbox and letting someone else change the oil for you.


How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches? :dontknow:

Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/XS400%203_1.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Breakdown.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Paint%20Finish%205.jpg

100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.

Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.

Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.:opps:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches? :dontknow:

Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/XS400%203_1.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Breakdown.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Paint%20Finish%205.jpg

100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.

Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.

Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.:opps:
.Sorry if I missed seeing any " Proof " ..................Drew, I trust your opinion :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: ......Mike :yes:

[Bob Denman]

You can call it "Stupid", "Old-Fashioned", or just being cheap; but I just tighten them back up, with the same effort that it took to remove it...:dontknow:

[JimVonBaden]

Of course not! :rolleyes:


.Sorry if I missed seeing any " Proof " ..................Drew, I trust your opinion :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: ......Mike :yes:

[JimVonBaden]

You can call it "Stupid", "Old-Fashioned", or just being cheap; but I just tighten them back up, with the same effort that it took to remove it...:dontknow:

I'm not calling it any of those things. I just don't see any harm in using them.

Then again, I don't tend to break or strip bolts, so there is that!:roflblack:

[pegasus1300]

And why not this one from a SL Vendor? http://store.valueaccessories.net/MagneticOilDrainPlugs.aspx at a whopping $6.

CJ JAX

Anybody used these?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Anybody used these?
It looks like a less expensive alternative - there were some problems reported with the LARGE MAGNET Dimple plugs - but these aren't those, so I would have no concerns in that area ......jmho..... Mike :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: It looks as if they're packing a lot less magnet; than the others... :dontknow:

[DrewNJ]

How is anyone supposed to learn what the proper torque feels like without using a torque wrench? I certainly can assemble nearly anything without one, but why not use it if you have it, assuming it is properly calibrated and you know how to use it? I don't understand this dislike of torque wrenches? :dontknow:

Just so I can "prove" my competence, I took this from this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/XS400%203_1.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Breakdown.jpg

To this:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/JVB%20Productions/XS-400/Paint%20Finish%205.jpg

100% by myself, without needing a torque wrench except engine assembly.

Want further "proof" of my competence, click on the link in my sigline.

Sorry if I seem a bit defensive.:opps:

Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.

Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[JimVonBaden]

Wasn't looking for proof, and honestly wasn't anything directed toward you specifically. Just a general statement. Sorry you got your panties in a bunch... If you've taken anything apart then you obviously know how silly it really is to feel the need to use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. Especially, a steel plug threaded into aluminum. Next people will be asking for what torque specs to use on the body panel bolts. The specific torque on a drain plug with a crush washer or oring just isn't that critical.
However, since you asked on how someone is supposed to get the feel. The way I was taught, and the way I taught my kids is to use mostly 1/4" drive starting out. Nearly impossible to gorilla tighten with 1/4".
Anymore I only use a torque wrench when I have multiple bolts that need to be consistent like on a motor or trans. Other odds and ends too....but not a drain plug.

Which is why I made the statement that if someone isn't confident enough in their ability to tighten a drain plug without feeling the need to throw a torque wrench on there, then maybe they should leave the tools in the box
Best of luck!


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I just threw in the proof because some here seem to need it to even listen to the new guy.

As for using a torque wrench, I still fail to see the harm in it, especially for someone starting out wrenching. I do believe that certain critical fasteners should be properly torqued. This includes wheels, brake components, etc. If you disagree that is fine, your call on your bike. I would not trust my bike to someone who looks down on others for wanting to be sure, and I sure would not belittle others who wish to use their torque wrenches on their bikes.

Oh, and body panel screws are usually 8-10Nm.

[DrewNJ]

Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I have nothing to prove and have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[JimVonBaden]

Personally, I've never felt the need to be accepted by any particular group, and have never been one to try and post up "proof" of any accomplishments. I honestly have never cared what anyone thought or believed, especially on an internet forum. But hey, whatever works for you....👍

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!:2thumbs:

[DGoebel]

Even though I don't have a 1330 engine, I wanted to thank SemperFi and Copperman for starting this thread and answering it quickly. I now know about Gold plugs, Dimple Plugs, and alternatives, but have decided I'd get the goldplugs myself and do this maintenance myself.

[zuni]

Anybody used these?

4 of them. 2014 RTs, 2015 F3s and 2 2016 F3t. Magnet size is fine. Thinking about how many miles over a whole bunch of years without magnets I see it as more of insurance. You really want to know what is in the oil spend the $25 once a year for analysis. Learned that I was tossing out good oil on my HHR. Over time increased the interval from 3500 miles between changes to 14K using Mobil 1 and Blackstone Labs said I could probably go another 3,000. Going from monthly to quarterly was enough savings for me.

CJ JAX

[DrewNJ]

Cool, then I am perfectly comfortable disagreeing with you!:2thumbs:
Glad your making yourself comfortable😎

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[pegasus1300]

I think the $6 magnets will work just fine for me. Just ordered 2 from Value.

[DGoebel]

4 of them. 2014 RTs, 2015 F3s and 2 2016 F3t. Magnet size is fine. Thinking about how many miles over a whole bunch of years without magnets I see it as more of insurance. You really want to know what is in the oil spend the $25 once a year for analysis. Learned that I was tossing out good oil on my HHR. Over time increased the interval from 3500 miles between changes to 14K using Mobil 1 and Blackstone Labs said I could probably go another 3,000. Going from monthly to quarterly was enough savings for me.

CJ JAX

CJ Jax, +1 on the Blackstone reports, I add the extra TBN reports and have routinely found I could extend my oil usage on different IC engines I've used. Not to mention the comfort I get when (knock wood) I've always got good reports back from them.
Now I'm thinking about checking out the Valueparts plugs

[JimVonBaden]

I think the $6 magnets will work just fine for me. Just ordered 2 from Value.
They had photos on the site, but post up real photos if you will. I may order a pair just to have them. Cheap enough to toss in a drawer.:thumbup:

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing, they are generally over a foot long. so they already are like pry bars. they can be flexible scale or breaker type but regardless very easy on over shoot your desired torque. I have 4 and use them rarely but especially not on smaller nuts and bolts...if you do not have mechanical abilities it is wise to use them carefully...:thumbup: the rest of us can feel the torque pretty well...

[JimVonBaden]

Here's the thing, they are generally over a foot long. so they already are like pry bars. they can be flexible scale or breaker type but regardless very easy on over shoot your desired torque. I have 4 and use them rarely but especially not on smaller nuts and bolts...if you do not have mechanical abilities it is wise to use them carefully...:thumbup: the rest of us can feel the torque pretty well...

Please don't be offended by this, but if a torque wrench is too hard to use correctly, then any wrench is going to be a challenge! :banghead:

[JimVonBaden]

Jim, you might be amazed at how many people are unaware of how to properly use a torque wrench, store a torque wrench or calculate proper torque even how to properly read the setting on a click type wrench.

Add to this, most torques listed in manuals are for dry clean threads. If the threads are lubricated in any way, and the required torque is a dry spec not wet torque, the fastener and mating component, be it a nut, threaded hole or even a shaft can be stretched, stripped, crushed or broken.

The over torque of wet vs dry is approximately 30% increase in net load into the threads.

No, I wouldn't be amazed by a lack of knowledge. I teach motorcycle maintenance. BUT, that is not my point. Fear of torque wrenches makes no sense to me. If you are going to avoid torque wrenches, you will often over or under torque fasteners, and either break them, damage the threads, or under torque them and have leaks or fasteners that fall out.

If a torque for a drain plug is listed, it will not be listed as a dry torque, that would be stupid.


As for these broken Dimple Drain Plugs, I was not there, and none of us have witnessed exactly what happened. I do give benefit of doubt that the plug failed and all torques, turning directions were correct.

Our oil is due to be changed. Bob D was kind enough to send me a second pair of Dimple drain plugs as he was hesitant to install them. When I received them, based on memory, I thought the set from Bob appeared different. My original Dimple Drain Plugs I thought were quite shiny and jewel like, also appeared to be made from stainless. I am not sure if they are stainless or not, but should know more once I change the oil. The set I got from Bob, had a more dull gray appearance, and a texture almost as if they had been shot peened. I am not sure of the vintage (date purchased) on Bobs plugs, but the set I installed was an early pair of Dimple Drain Plugs.

I will report back as I have more info to add.

I also was discussing this with my friend and forum member JTORO yesterday. Something I had not heard before but he informed me that upon accomplishing the first oil change by him on his 2015 RTS, he had an oem drain plug fail by breaking and leaving a section in the case. He also informed me he was able to remove the broken section and continue on installing Dimple Drain Plugs.

I don't have any experience with these plugs, so I am learning as I go. All this is good info to me. If this many plugs are breaking, and people are using the correct torque, then it is obvious the plugs are defective. If they are not using a torque wrench, however, then it is hard to say if it is ham fisted wrenching, or defective plugs.

[JimVonBaden]

FWIW, I have taught aircraft maintenance and repair, sometimes a bit frightening. The moto guys are often worse and I have worked with them also.

As for being stupid to list a dry torque on a drain plug, agree it would be stupid but is common to see a standard not corrected torque spec. I need to look up the spec on the Spyder, but it seems high for a wet torque though about correct for dry torque.

It is completely possible that the listed spec is incorrect, if it is for a dry thread. I'll look it up tonight. A good manual will have the spec listed, and tell if it is wet, dry is assumed.

Thanks for the interesting discussion and information! :thumbup:

[DrewNJ]

Common sense guys...Torque specs are assumed dry unless otherwise stated. The torque specs are originally implemented for production/assembly. From there they are later extended out to service manuals.

Most torque wrenches are considerably larger/longer than a regular socket or box wrench. The extra size transitions to extra leverage making it much more possible to strip threads. You really have to try to strip threads with a regular wrench.
You guys really like to over think something so simple. Snug it, tug it and be done.
Ride more, worry less!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[JimVonBaden]

Common sense guys...Torque specs are assumed dry unless otherwise stated. The torque specs are originally implemented for production/assembly. From there they are later extended out to service manuals.

Most torque wrenches are considerably larger/longer than a regular socket or box wrench. The extra size transitions to extra leverage making it much more possible to strip threads. You really have to try to strip threads with a regular wrench.
You guys really like to over think something so simple. Snug it, tug it and be done.
Ride more, worry less!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Saying the length of a torque wrench is the problem is like saying the strength of the person is the problem. What is a "tug", how does that translate to properly crushing a crush washer? I'm pretty sure someone who can't properly use a torque wrench is no more likely to properly use a regular wrench! You are under thinking it. :banghead:

[Bob Denman]

You guys really like to over think something so simple. Snug it, tug it and be done.
Ride more, worry less!
:agree: With this... :thumbup:

139588

[JimVonBaden]

By the way, back to the whole point of this, unless people are properly using torque wrenches when tightening these plugs, you can't really blame the plug for failing if you are "snugging it and tugging it" tight. :lecturef_smilie:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Paul, thanks for going the extra mile on this..... interesting info. Correct me if I'm wrong but the case that these oil plugs go into is Aluminum , correct !!!! ..... and these plugs are Billet Steel !!! .... So how come the Aluminum THREADS didn't .. STRIP ... before the plug snapped ????? .......Mike :thumbup:

[JimVonBaden]

Paul, thanks for going the extra mile on this..... interesting info. Correct me if I'm wrong but case that these oil plugs go into is Aluminum , correct !!!! ..... and these plugs are Billet Steel !!! .... So how come the Aluminum THREADS didn't .. STRIP ... before the plug snapped ????? .......Mike :thumbup:

Good question! One would think the threads on the plug are stronger than the aluminum they thread into!

[DrewNJ]

Hopefully he meant they were made from rolled steel and NOT billet? Billet steel is the softest and most malleable since it's only the second stage of steel production.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The obvious answer is the aluminum threads are stronger than a drilled fastener, but the real question is not the degree or component that fails, but rather how tight does the plug need to be.

The photo that showed the snapped drain plug indicated from the long burr that the section that remained in the case had intact threads. The point of fracture showed the long burr. And I would speculate that when the failure occurred, the few remaining aluminum threads in contact with the solid section of drain plug did strip out of the case.

It is not a test of a fastener to see if the internal or external threads strip first. Rather can the fastener reach proper torque repeatedly without stretching or failure to either part.

Mike, your logic reminds me of how some aircraft mechanics tighten stuff. Tighter than hell and half a turn more.
Paul, lately I get the impression that my SIMPLE questions are annoying you.!!!!!..... I'd love to borrow your crystal ball so I could ALSO tell what people are thinking and what is really behind the statements they make ......... Here's the GOOD news, I won't ask any more questions involving you ............... :clap::clap:.....Mike :thumbup:

[JimVonBaden]

Maybe if time permits, I need to drill and tap an aluminum block. Use the Dimple plug and video it being brought to book spec dry torque. Or better still, use a dial style torque wrench and destroy the drain plug to see the peak torque it fails at.

I will need an oem drain plug and also a Gold Plug to destroy also for comparison if someone could please send them to me.

On a BMW Boxer motor the valve cover bolts are steel and the heads aluminum. I know there are size differences, but it only takes about 20NM to strip out the threads in the head. I have heli-coiled dozens of them from ham fisted wrenchers (not using torque wrenches, though I never use one on them). The bolt has a shoulder on it to prevent smashing the cover seal.


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/24%20K%20service/22-place-donut.jpg

I suspect the plug itself is weak compared to a standard plug. The BMW Boxer motors all have magnetic plugs that will strip the threads before the plug itself breaking.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b238/JimVonBaden2000/R1200GS/24%20K%20service/34-trans-drain-nuts.jpg

Engine and trans drain plugs.

[Grandpot]

This is getting to be a really l o n g thread.
💣

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Having a bad Mike? Actually my crystal ball fell of the table and shattered, my magic wand broke and I am fresh out of pixie dust.

Back to the topic, your questions are often not simple. If you prefer a simple answer, aluminum is a weaker material than steel, but less steel could be weaker than aluminum.

As for knowing what people are thinking and no what is behind their statements, you are a difficult person to read. You post something in jest one place and apparently serious in another.
........This is the problem ...... you ( and others ) are trying to read BEHIND the lines / words that are written. Just take the words at FACE value and stop trying to IMAGINE what my mental motive MIGHT be for the question. In your previous Post on this you used the WORD - LOGIC ..... My question had nothing to do with the LOGIC of anything ....... It was purely a question .... I'm not trying to be obtuse .... I value your friendship and intelligent thoughts ..... but lately I feel your criticism towards things I say are going beyond the Academic ...................Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
As for the failed drain plugs, you bring forward a great point of view. Mine work fine, so why should we even bother with other peoples troubles. They may have caused their own problem, and as they say, if you are gonna be stupid you better be tough or have enough money to pay someone to fix it.
My answers are in red above ........Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Richard then indicated that Dimple Drain Plugs has now gone to a third, and even better improvement in the coatings. He explained the name, it is a zinc process that is very modern and utilized by Mercedes Benz on automotive parts.
It would be interesting to know just exactly how zinc plays a part in this process. If the coating process leaves zinc as a coating on the plug that is not good. Zinc and aluminum do not play well together when they are in direct contact because of the inclination of the zinc to corrode due to the difference in the electromotive force of the electrons in them. Zinc will sacrificially corrode when in contact with aluminum if there is a return path for the electrons. It's actually the same process as in a battery. Water will provide the return path, and the bottom of the engine gets wet from water splashing up against on a wet road. The possibility exists, I believe, that there could be corrosion between the zinc coated drain plug and the aluminum engine case causing the plug to seize up in the threads.

In reality, this is most likely a very low probability corrosion occurrence but why create the risk in the first place?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Two different brands of magnetic drain plugs, both long drain plugs sure appear to use the same size / diameter of magnet.

When you consider one brand is made from stainless and the other from steel, and in many fasteners made from stainless they are often not as strong as steel, plus stainless against aluminum has natural tendency to gall or seize and will corrode the nearby aluminum.
Did you see " lou49's " - thread " Oil Change " ( and yes they are from the 998 engine ) those GOLD PLUGS have considerably more THREAD material around their Magnets ..........Mike :thumbup:...............PS , I do think both engines share one plug size, but it isn't the large one.....

[Bob Denman]

Two different brands of magnetic drain plugs, both long drain plugs sure appear to use the same size / diameter of magnet.

When you consider one brand is made from stainless and the other from steel, and in many fasteners made from stainless they are often not as strong as steel, plus stainless against aluminum has natural tendency to gall or seize and will corrode the nearby aluminum.

Hi Paul,
For those of us who have trouble "keeping up" with the metallurgy aficionados in this thread: can you tell us which brands are stainless, and which ones aren't? :dontknow:

[Gator37]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.

Why so many stripped oil plugs? Are they making them out of plastic or something? That is kind of ridiculous for people to have to go out and buy another because the manufacturer can't make a decent plug.
:banghead:

[jcthorne]

Why so many stripped oil plugs? Are they making them out of plastic or something? That is kind of ridiculous for people to have to go out and buy another because the manufacturer can't make a decent plug.
:banghead:

At
the moment, its the aftermarket plugs that are failing. I have no problem with the OEM plugs if you use the right tools.

[beefybudds]

Richard and I spoke about the failed drain plugs. He knows his product well. He asked if it was the long or short drain plugs. I explained that there had been failures posted here on Spyderlovers. His words to me were that he had not heard of any failures. He also informed me, and I don't know the criteria for the test, but they accomplish testing on each design to validate that the design is mechanically sound and will not fail with normal use.
Until I read this I had respect for Richard but after reading that he has no knowledge of his drain plug not having any failures is a complete lie.
Next time you talk to him ask about talking to Joel from Minnesota. I probably spent over 2 hours talking to him over several occasions. Some topic was not related to dimple but the initial contact with him was regarding broken dimple plug.
He even sent me out a new pair of dimple plugs.
It makes me so mad to be told he denies knowing about his faulty plugs.
I would think that before the dimple plugs would snap the threads in the aluminum casing would strip out first if the plug was not at fault.
But I could be wrong since I'm not a mechanic or machinist with knowledge in that area.

Went back and looked up when I talked to richard



06/20
6:56PM
To
704-320-0700
45minutes





7/30
1:48PM
To
704-320-0700
25minutes



OK so I kinda over stated the time i talked to him but it was several months ago and I new we did have some lengthy conversations.

[Bob Denman]

Nobody ever admits to have ever heard of any problem over the phone: it opens up too many cans of worms for them... nojoke
If you take life with a grain of salt or two: things DO taste a bit better... even the bull****! :D

[beefybudds]

Not sure if this matters on the quality of the dimple plug vs gold plug but the gold plugs both the short and the long did weight more than the dimple plug.

Also I got this reply back from gold plug today when I asked them the question about there plug in an aluminum case causing corrosion or any problems.

"No need to worry. Those 2 metals only fight in constant salt water contact or when electrical current is running through them.

You will not have any problems with our stainless plug in your aluminum case. We have sold hundreds of thousands of plugs over the last 16 years and have not had any problems."

[jaherbst]

Let's put this puppy to bed. You guys are starting to dig the Fly Specks out of the Sugarbowl again. It's

amazing how these things can morph in to the superfluous. Move on, take a breath go for a ride etc. etc.

etc. "when going through life keep your eye upon the Donut and not upon the Hole" !

Jack

[trikermutha]

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Let's put this puppy to bed. You guys are starting to dig the Fly Specks out of the Sugarbowl again. It's

amazing how these things can morph in to the superfluous. Move on, take a breath go for a ride etc. etc.

etc. "when going through life keep your eye upon the Donut and not upon the Hole" !

Jack
Yeah, but if you look through the hole you can see the other side!! :roflblack:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I replaced my large plug with a GOLD plug ( in 1330 eng.) 11/21/15 , then checked it at oil change 6-18-16, it looked fine ..... I will be checking it again very soon. I'll pay close attention to what it looks like............ Mike :thumbup:

[beefybudds]

I just think the evidence is in the reports of all the aftermarket plugs being faulty are the dimple plugs with no reports of the gold plugs being faulty.

[keith1]

Mine did the same, I just welded a nut to the bottom of the striped plug. Now I just use a ratchet and socket :banghead:

[pegasus1300]

One thing I discovered with my stock plugs (and yes I am going to admit here that even with 50 years of motorcycle experience behind me I can be lazy and stupid,both at the same time) when I had trouble removing a plug I had not inserted the torx all the way into the hole. Make sure the allen or torx is ALL the way in before you begin to pull. ALso if I set the ratchet to remove before I go upside down I don't make as many mistakes.

[spyderryder53]

I would get a gold plug.
I had a dimple plug snap in 2 leaving half the plug in the clutch cover. It was a $1100 job to get replaced.
There is also another forum member who had the same plug snap in the same spot.
I did compare both dimple and gold plugs and the gold plug seems like a better quality product.
Just a note that the dealer installed the dimple plug during first oil change.
They claimed they did not over torqued the plug.
Also the member who had the same problem happen also claimed he didn't over torqued the plug.


I`m the other guy that had a DIMPLE PLUG plug snap off 1st time I put it in hardly got it snug and bingo broke in half .
it may be that some were defects don`t know for sure but I would go with the gold plugs
Leon

[jcthorne]

I keep a supply of OEM plugs on hand at the shop. If a bike comes in with one of these dimple plugs installed, I refuse to reinstall it. Far to much liability and a known failure point. We replace the factory plug at the owners expense and hand them the dimple plug. Have not had a bike come in with gold plugs installed yet but would give me pause.

[bluep]

These 5.95 plugs from value accessories.net are for the 989 v twin not the 1330 ace motor

[Bruiser37]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
I have always changed oil on my autos and motorcycles and never stripped a plug. Always use a reliable torque wrench, always use new drain plug gasket washer, (cheap insurance) and never ever more than 12 to 14 ft lbs torque. Never had a leak. Stripped drain plugs are caused by mechanics??? who don't use torque wrenches and believe the tighter the better end up with next oil change and stripped plugs and your stuck with a serious and expensive problem. My 2016 F3-T manual drain plug oil sump cover torque specifications "21 ft. lbs." Magnetic drain plug clutch cover "15 ft. lbs" Both over kill and dangerous. Think 12 - 14 ft. lbs.

[UtahPete]

How do you strip the threads of a plug with only 18# or 21# of torque?

[Mad Mac]

How do you strip the threads of a plug with only 18# or 21# of torque?

I :agree:, how does one "strip" the threads?? I changed mine over to Gold Plugs in fall due to the fact that the hex portion of the plug stripped out(oil plug, not trans. plug) while using new Torx bits and making sure it was seated properly. Real "peanut-buttery" in my opinion. I had to use an SAE oversize allen wrench and tap it into the hex portion to wedge it tight enough to hold and them un-thread it, luckily I got it out without too much verbiage and getting the neighbors too excited!!! Hopefully the G.P.'s will give me long service life, since I can use a socket on them. Mac:doorag:

[Ex-Rocket]

:agree: Gold plugs are the way to go.:yes::yes::yes:

[UtahPete]

I have always changed oil on my autos and motorcycles and never stripped a plug. Always use a reliable torque wrench, always use new drain plug gasket washer, (cheap insurance) and never ever more than 12 to 14 ft lbs torque. Never had a leak. Stripped drain plugs are caused by mechanics??? who don't use torque wrenches and believe the tighter the better end up with next oil change and stripped plugs and your stuck with a serious and expensive problem. My 2016 F3-T manual drain plug oil sump cover torque specifications "21 ft. lbs." Magnetic drain plug clutch cover "15 ft. lbs" Both over kill and dangerous. Think 12 - 14 ft. lbs.
I just completed the oil and filter change on both my 2014 RTs. The clutch drain plug on one took some effort to remove; obviously the dealer mechanic had applied too much torque at the previous oil change. But the hex wrench did not slip in the bolt socket. In fact it was a very tight fit. I don't understand how anyone can experience the problem described in this thread using the correct tools and torque on the OEM drain bolts.

[eddieshep999]

Just as a matter of interest has anyone considered using one of these in place of a drain plug

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

[spyderryder53]

I have seen that other people have replaced the oil plugs on their bikes. I did the first oil change on mine today but, I had an oil plug strip on me. I had the correct "T" tool and it still stripped out. I did get it out and drained the oil. I do not want to put that one, or the other one back in there. I have looked and found another oil plug that others have used but $63.00. I will look and ask if anyone knows of any that do not cost that much.
I had dimple plugs and the clutch cover plug snapped in two on the first use. Its to thin around magnet . That was a $900 oil change. I put the original ones back in , just tap them to make sure they are in all the way and you won't strip it.
Leon

[Mad Mac]

Just as a matter of interest has anyone considered using one of these in place of a drain plug

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

If I'm looking at the correct illustration, I would not want to take the chance on knocking one of those off if I accidently drug the bottom of the frame/motor on something. I usually install skid plates (even on oil pans) of my off-road vehicles including dirt bikes, sand rails, etc. and have seen what happens when you bottom out or drag a pan on something hard. Mac:doorag:

[UtahPete]

If I'm looking at the correct illustration, I would not want to take the chance on knocking one of those off if I accidently drug the bottom of the frame/motor on something. I usually install skid plates (even on oil pans) of my off-road vehicles including dirt bikes, sand rails, etc. and have seen what happens when you bottom out or drag a pan on something hard. Mac:doorag:
I don't know if you noticed but the member is in England. Not too much off-roading there probably! Loose cobblestones maybe...:joke:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just as a matter of interest has anyone considered using one of these in place of a drain plug

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

They were discussed in this thread. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?99119-making-oil-change-cleaner-1330-RT&highlight=fumoto. Clearance is the main concern.

[Mad Mac]

They were discussed in this thread. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?99119-making-oil-change-cleaner-1330-RT&highlight=fumoto. Clearance is the main concern.

Exactly the point I was making in my post and was not being too critical. Must not have any steep curbs/driveways/culverts?? Mac:joke:

[RudyB]

Buy the Dimple or Gold plug, and be done with it. I'm not finding a quality alternative, and I do lots of oil changes. Go first class, Marine!
Listen to Joe he knows what he's talking about😃

[RudyB]

The Gold Plugs MP-01 and MP-18 are a total of $40 without shipping. Go to goldplug.com
Please confirm MP-01 and MP-18 are for 1330cc thanks

[Little Blue]

NOT on My SPYDER!!:gaah: USED this type of Drain plug on the Riding Mower ONLY. :thumbup: PS: I broke one off of my ATV. :coffee: