Aftermarket trailer hitch

[IGETAROUND]

I am running the Show Chrome non BRP trailer hitch on my RS. After pulling my Time Out trailer to California and back I found a very disquieting problem; the hitch was moving up and down on the swing arm pivot point!! There is a 8mm allen head set screw in the bottom of the side pieces that mount over the axle nut. This set screw is a pointed end that contacts the swing arm. I had tightened these as much as I could twist with a 4mm T-handled allen wrench before leaving and again in California as I had to remove the hitch to replace the rear tire.
After returning home I attended a Mi. Spyder riders meeting and mentioned this problem to a member that had a identical hitch. His recommendation was to replace the allen head set screws with a conventional head bolt that was flat on the bottom; so I did this and after just returning from the UP trip, the hitch remains solidly in place.

SOOOOO my recommendation to others is if you use the aftermarket hitch on your bike to replace the pointy ended allen head set screws with a flat bottomed conventional wrench head 8mm bolt.

And I'm sorry to report that I can't remember this gentleman's name, but he and his spouse were riding an 2015 RT. Thanks again for a great solution to this issue. :bowdown::thumbup:

[billybovine]

I looked at that the last time I reinstalled the hitch after a tire change. I wondered why the allen screws where pointed and thought that a flat bottom screw would be better. So your post confirms my thoughts and I will change them out.

Thanks

[blacklightning]

I am running the Show Chrome non BRP trailer hitch on my RS. After pulling my Time Out trailer to California and back I found a very disquieting problem; the hitch was moving up and down on the swing arm pivot point!! There is a 8mm allen head set screw in the bottom of the side pieces that mount over the axle nut. This set screw is a pointed end that contacts the swing arm. I had tightened these as much as I could twist with a 4mm T-handled allen wrench before leaving and again in California as I had to remove the hitch to replace the rear tire.
After returning home I attended a Mi. Spyder riders meeting and mentioned this problem to a member that had a identical hitch. His recommendation was to replace the allen head set screws with a conventional head bolt that was flat on the bottom; so I did this and after just returning from the UP trip, the hitch remains solidly in place.

SOOOOO my recommendation to others is if you use the aftermarket hitch on your bike to replace the pointy ended allen head set screws with a flat bottomed conventional wrench head 8mm bolt.

And I'm sorry to report that I can't remember this gentleman's name, but he and his spouse were riding an 2015 RT. Thanks again for a great solution to this issue. :bowdown::thumbup:
Thank you very much for this post. I just finished installing this very same trailer hitch on my 2014 RT just 30 minutes ago. I will be going out today and picking up the conventional bolt. I know it is a 8mmx12mm set screw, but what length conventional bolt did you get?

[Fatcycledaddy]

Thanks for the report back. I am very glad it worked for you as well as it did for me. :yes:

[IGETAROUND]

I will be going out today and picking up the conventional bolt. I know it is a 8mmx12mm set screw, but what length conventional bolt did you get?

I got one twice as long as the set screw, that way there is plenty of length to adequately tighten down and not run out of threads to do so. :thumbup::yikes:

[Fatcycledaddy]

I will be going out today and picking up the conventional bolt. I know it is a 8mmx12mm set screw, but what length conventional bolt did you get?

I got one twice as long as the set screw, that way there is plenty of length to adequately tighten down and not run out of threads to do so. :thumbup::yikes:

Exactly right. If you get a bolt too long it will interfere with the brake caliper. Also be careful when tightening the bolt and don't over tighten to the point of putting a major dent in the swing arm.
I also used a little locktight on the bolt to make sure that it does not loosen up with the road vibration.
I also used double faced tape on the back of the hitch where it mounts to the swing arm. It is easy popped loose with a screwdriver when needed to be removed, but helps to hold everything solid.

This has now worked great with over 5,000 miles of trailer towing after the fix, and over 12,000 miles of non trailer towing, with one rear tire change in the middle of all of it.

[trikerbiker645]

I had the same experience to the point of the original pointed screws almost wore a hole thru the frame on a 1200 mile trip from rocking back and forth or up and down. Doesn't matter how tight you get the set screws. I replaced them with flat bolts with an extra lock/jam nut on the bolt but after 3oo miles the problem was back with hitch rocking up and down. Just starts denting the frame in. Unfortunately I didn't get the results Fatcycledaddy did. So after getting home and doing some investigation i found that the real issue is that the brace pieces with the set screw that go on the swing arm that have the axle bolt go thru are too big [wide] loose what ever you want to call it for the Spyders swing arm frame. I assume it was made a touch big for installation ease and they figured the set screw would stop the rocking, which it doesn't. It still allows it to rock up and down after a few miles regardless of how tight you get the screw or thru bolt even if you've replaced the pointed screw. I thought of adding a 2nd set screw on the other end so it could be tightened evenly which might take care of the rocking. But........

My fix was to measure and make a metal flat iron "shim" the full length and width of the show chrome bracket. I then attached the shim to the bracket flange with adhesive to keep it in place with a small rivet so it can't work out. I have brackets now so that I need to tap the bracket on to the swing arm frame. I put my "shim" on the lower side of bracket in case I still needed to use the set screw or bolt to take any play out and I didn't want to make a bigger dent in the swing arm frame. Turns out I don't even need the set screw/bolt now. Everything stays solid and tight. I actually needed a 3/16" shim for the left side and a 1/16th was all that was needed for the right [caliper] side. Every one could be different. To check what I'm trying to describe take your frame bracket set screw out, then hold the bracket against the swing arm frame with the hole for the bikes axle bearing nut being in the right place and use your other hand and see if you can rock it up and down. If so you need a shim .
I don't think that this would be an issue if you purchase the BRP hitch from the install videos I've watched. They have to be tapped on from the get go. Get what you pay for I guess. safe riding!

[IGETAROUND]

I don't think that this would be an issue if you purchase the BRP hitch from the install videos I've watched. They have to be tapped on from the get go. Get what you pay for I guess. safe riding!

Ok, I agree to some extent about getting what you pay for; however it shouldn't be @ DOUBLE the price to have something that fits properly. :yikes::yikes:

Thank you very much for the insight on how to properly resolve this problem. Will look into getting some stainless steel shims fabricated this winter after the bike comes off the road. So far the flat bottom bolt has done the trick for 1000 miles of trailering. Will remain to be seen if this will hold long term or whether I need to go the shim route. :bowdown::thumbup::thumbup:

[billybovine]

One of my plates I have to tap on and off with a hammer now. So I won't have to shim it. The other one slips on without effort. May need a shim in that one.

In regards to BRP hitch. They have plastic shims glued to their brackets to get the right fit. Also there are different hitches for different years, because the swing arms are slightly bigger on 2013 and later models

[trikerbiker645]

billybovine, thanks for the tidbit of the brp having shims, didn't know that. Maybe Show Chrome should include shims in their kit, would have saved me some grief! safe riding!:2thumbs:

[Deer Slayer]

I replaced the set screws about a year ago with bolts. Then i marked one flat on the head with paint. Now I can tell if the bolt moves.
:riding:

[SpyderAnn01]

One of my plates I have to tap on and off with a hammer now. So I won't have to shim it. The other one slips on without effort. May need a shim in that one.

In regards to BRP hitch. They have plastic shims glued to their brackets to get the right fit. Also there are different hitches for different years, because the swing arms are slightly bigger on 2013 and later models

The hitch on my 14 RT came off an 11 RT and it fits fine.

[billybovine]

The hitch on my 14 RT came off an 11 RT and it fits fine.

There recently was a thread where someone bought an older BRP hitch and it would not fit. His fix was to buy a new BRP hitch. Until then I did not know there was a difference. In that thread a couple folks posted that their older hitch fit their new Spyder. The same as your experience. Luck of the draw I guess. Also I have seen a couple postings about their hitch being loose. I wonder if a used newer hitch used on an older Spyder may be a factor.

[jaherbst]

For a few dollars more you could have bought the genuine BRP hitch and bypassed all this grief. I have

read numerous problems on here using an after market hitch. Everything from this problem to welds

cracking, receiver sleeve breaking off etc. Some times saving money costs you more. ( dollars and grief)

I have not read about any problems with the BRP hitch.

Jack

[Deer Slayer]

There is nothing wrong with non BRP hitches. Just some folks get their BRP underware in a wad!
:roflblack:

[trikerbiker645]

Jaherbst, to quote another member's response to my post and since we aren't actually talking "just a few dollars" Ok, I agree to some extent about getting what you pay for; however it shouldn't be @ DOUBLE the price to have something that fits properly. :yikes::yikes: I tend to agree, but then I can fix most things myself if there's a issue, so other than my time its more of a challenge to me to see if I can fix it right so I usually will go for the cost savings first. safe riding.:D

[jaherbst]

I knew a little uneasiness in the "Herd" (Gary Larsen) would be created by my Post #6. By time you repair, find a suitable wiring solution , burn out several modules etc. the price in the end usually turns out to be about the same for the BRP or the Aftermarket. (not to mention all the grief you took out on the poor wife by your bad decision making)

Me, I have enough problems without knowingly adding to them. Each person has to make their own choice. As Charley Brown would say "good grief, who needs the grief". ;)

​Jack

[Deer Slayer]

There are some of us that like to color outside of the lines. I just love it when someone says I can't do something. Fabricator = one who makes neat stuff you don't have.
:ohyea:

[ABQSpyder]

Aftermarket Hitch $249.00
Custom Harness by site sponsor Electrical Connection.
Works and performs great.