Help!!! Trailer Has No Lights

[sjcpanther]

Getting ready to leave on a trip, and I have no lights to my Aluma XL trailer.

Any options to try? I don't know if this is a problem with the Spyder or with the trailer. Replaced fuse for trailer, and no luck.

Any ideas?

[JayD]

It is probably the wiring harness control module on the bike. I had the same problem. The XL trailer wiring is not grounded to the trailer frame. Needs to be. You probably burned out the control module. I endedup buying the bike wiring harness from Big Bike. It bypasses the spyder system and pulls power straight from the battery.

[stillriding]

Getting ready to leave on a trip, and I have no lights to my Aluma XL trailer.

Any options to try? I don't know if this is a problem with the Spyder or with the trailer. Replaced fuse for trailer, and no luck.

Any ideas?I had the exact same problems with my aftermarket trailer. The BRP module blew. Replaced the module and grounded the trailer to itself and all is well.

[sjcpanther]

Thanks, but it just doesn't help me right now. I've had this trailer 2 years, and not a problem until just right now. :banghead:

[billybovine]

You replaced the fuse. Was it blown or not? Did the new fuse blow too or is that not your problem?

[PrairieSpyder]

OK, I don't have any answers, but I'll apply what I learned from dealing with computer users.


Did you buy the lights option?
Is it plugged in?
Unplug it and plug it in again and then restart.


133265

[sjcpanther]

Yes, replaced the fuse, but it wasn't burnt.

The dealer installed the harnesses, all Can Am parts. All lights on Spyder work fine. Just a dead trailer.

[CapeSpyder]

you need a test light
bike running
hook the clamp side to the exposed pin on the bike side plug.
then use the prob side and test each of the remaining spots if the prob lights up you haave a trailer problem if the prob does not
bike module problem

[Johnny_Swindle]

I guess I will ask a dumb question.....how did you ground the trailer to itself? I just had the trailer lights go out on my aftermarket trailer. I have not had a chance to check the fuse, but if it is blown and I replace it and I manage to get trailer lights, I guess I will need to do this also.


I had the exact same problems with my aftermarket trailer. The BRP module blew. Replaced the module and grounded the trailer to itself and all is well.

[pitzerwm]

Yes, you need to see if you are getting power from the bike plug, then you will know if its the bike/module or the trailer. It is usually something simple. i.e. don't rewire the trailer until you know that it is indeed the wiring.

[stillriding]

I guess I will ask a dumb question.....how did you ground the trailer to itself? I just had the trailer lights go out on my aftermarket trailer. I have not had a chance to check the fuse, but if it is blown and I replace it and I manage to get trailer lights, I guess I will need to do this also.Had my dealer do it when he replaced the module: spliced into the trailer's ground wire near the coupler and ran it to a bolt that holds one of the safety chains to the coupler. About 4 or 5 inches long. As an extra precaution I had him ground the new module to the Spyder. By the way, these actions were suggested by contributors on this forum for which I'm grateful since I know nothing about electrical stuff.

[trikermutha]

yep as others have stated get a test light or a volt meter and check for power.

Or take it someplace that can test for you.

[sjcpanther]

Same problem has happened again.

It does seem like the trailer needs to be grounded. A couple of members have recommended this.

My question is -- Exactly how do I ground the trailer to itself???

Can someone give some easy to understand explanations?

[billybovine]

Same problem has happened again.

It does seem like the trailer needs to be grounded. A couple of members have recommended this.

My question is -- Exactly how do I ground the trailer to itself???

Can someone give some easy to understand explanations?
.

When a trailer is made of all steel and welded together. If you attach the ground wire to the tongue and the lights are grounded to the trailer chassis. Everything will work well for a long time. As long as the tin coated copper wire end connection to the steel is kept corrosion free. Of course steel is heavy. So substitute some parts with aluminum. Can't weld aluminum to steel so bolt it together. Also not many good aluminum welders around so bolt those parts together too. Bolts and screws do not come in aluminium. They are zinc plated steel or stainless steel. If you attach the ground to the tongue. It may work for while but there are too many different kinds of metals bolted together. Add water and you get corrosion between the joints and poor or intermittent ground continuity from the lights to the tongue will result. Intermittent ground continuity will kill a isolator module. So add a couple dollars of extra wire to the trailer and run the ground wire all the way to each of the major rear lights. It's ok to attach the ground to the trailer chassis along the way and you may have too for the small side marker lights.