A vastly improved way to lift the Spyder ….

[bmwlarry]

I have always had a J&S jack that I used on my 2011 Spyder RT. I also had a full size Handy lift. I lived the handy lift but even with the spyder off the ground, the clearance between the lift table and the bottom of the bike was so close that a service jack was necessary to get more room underneath. When using the J&S for the spyder it was a tricky job to get the balance right and I still needed jack stands up front and a floor jack under the rear tire for safety. I heard that J&S was now making a spyder adapter for the jack so I ordered it. When I got it I realized that the adapter was for the RS and dint fit the right places. I contacted Steve at J&S jacks and we talked over the problem. Yesterday I received the new improved adapter for the 2015 RT. The adapter is perfect. It sits directly on the jack rails with cutouts for the existing bolts. There is a little padded block that fits into the tiny opening just infron go the rest exhaust hangers. Even with the spyder jacked up to the highest (20 in.), it is perfectly balanced. The jack itself has knobs that can be turned that puts little rubber feet on the garage floor keeping it in place. With these feet raised, you cane very easily spin the spyder all around as needed!! Freaking AMAZING and Handy! It is not cheap, though! I prefer to not talk pricing but you can contact Steve at J&S jacks for info.

J&S jacks (http://www.jsjacks.com)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fim0yZYgdds

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130512&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130513&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130514&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130515&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130516&stc=1

[Sam Mac]

Just looked at the J&S site, the jack is not cheap but dropping an RT would cost a lot more.

[irvin48]

what the distance between the rails on your jack
[center to center]? thank you!

[M109Dreamer]

Wonder if the same extension could be used on other jacks?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Chupaca]

The base is what I see most using in different brands but the adapter makes the difference. Looks like a nice set up and :agree: will it fit any other brand....??

[bmwlarry]

what the distance between the rails on your jack
[center to center]? thank you!

The actual jack rails are 16.5 in. apart but the spyder adapter rails are 18 in. apart.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'm having a hard time seeing what's so great about the adapter. :hun:

[bmwlarry]

I'm having a hard time seeing what's so great about the adapter. :hun:

First of all, the jack is far superior than the HF and sears models but you pay for it. J&S Jacks has the best service I have had ever!! the adapter spreads the weight out evenly and the jack has two safety pins that lock in position. When I tried "another" jack that kind of looks the same, it was hard to find a safe balance point. This adapter has a locating block sticking up so the jack is automatically at the optimal balancing spot. the jack has two rubber footed knobs that screw down to lock position on floor and when up, I can by myself, roll the spyder and spin it !! Its would be great for those that have limited space. you could pull in garage, slide in jack, raised to first stop, set safety pins and roll the bike to a place where it doesn't take up as much space like agains a wall!

Does any of this make sense? Of course, its only my view!!

[Gray Ghost]

Does any of this make sense? Of course, its only my view!!

You are spot on. I don't have the same jack or the adapter, but I do have an adapter for my Venture that makes all the difference in raising the bike. The guy that built that adapter also built it with a locking rod and a place to insert legs at the corners. That allows me to jack the bike up, then set the legs in place and move the jack out of the way. Makes maintenance on the underside much easier.

Thanks for including the rail dimensions, I will check my jack in hopes that the adapter might fit.

[Culpjp]

First of all, the jack is far superior than the HF and sears models but you pay for it. J&S Jacks has the best service I have had ever!! the adapter spreads the weight out evenly and the jack has two safety pins that lock in position. When I tried "another" jack that kind of looks the same, it was hard to find a safe balance point. This adapter has a locating block sticking up so the jack is automatically at the optimal balancing spot. the jack has two rubber footed knobs that screw down to lock position on floor and when up, I can by myself, roll the spyder and spin it !! Its would be great for those that have limited space. you could pull in garage, slide in jack, raised to first stop, set safety pins and roll the bike to a place where it doesn't take up as much space like agains a wall!

Does any of this make sense? Of course, its only my view!!

Makes perfect sense to me!

[Denno]

First of all, the jack is far superior than the HF and sears models but you pay for it. J&S Jacks has the best service I have had ever!! the adapter spreads the weight out evenly and the jack has two safety pins that lock in position. When I tried "another" jack that kind of looks the same, it was hard to find a safe balance point. This adapter has a locating block sticking up so the jack is automatically at the optimal balancing spot. the jack has two rubber footed knobs that screw down to lock position on floor and when up, I can by myself, roll the spyder and spin it !! Its would be great for those that have limited space. you could pull in garage, slide in jack, raised to first stop, set safety pins and roll the bike to a place where it doesn't take up as much space like agains a wall!

Does any of this make sense? Of course, its only my view!!

Thanks for the great pictures. I ordered mine last week and it was delivered in just 3 days. Workmanship is top notch and very heavy duty compared to my Craftsman aluminum jack. I ordered the air version since I was spoiled with my lift table I have used so long with my former 2 wheelers.
The directions were lacking a bit in how to use the adapter with the Spyder but your pics took all the guesswork out of it.

Thanks again!

[pegasus1300]

Is the adapter available separately and from where? J & S?

[bmwlarry]

The adapter is available separately - see the original post. It is , however, made specifically for the J&S Jack so no promises are avail that it it work or work well with other brands of jacks.

[marty1096]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=4701 We replaced pipes with longer 67 inch thicker walled and capped the ends and painted them yellow, installed 6ea. PVC for spacers 7-1/2 inches and painted them red, used ramp that came with table for rear wheel, bought some ramps and used some 2x6's to merge the ramp to the table extensions, used 2ea on each side 2x6" clamped on to extension on table as a stop/chock. installed friction tape over the plate and pinned it. the plate that is removable (the one that allows you to rotate your rear mc tire...


If this link does not work, look at my album in my profile. Marty1096

[GaryinWI]

I too had a J&S jack for years and loved it for my 2 wheeled bikes. Tried to use it when I got my F3L and it was too tippy. I contacted the company many times and they refused to work with my on an adapter for the F3s. So I unloaded the J&S ( and took a killing) and am using a combination of a MoJack XT on front wheels on a tall ramp for rear. Works fine. Was very disappointed in J&S response to my issue.

[UtahPete]

I too had a J&S jack for years and loved it for my 2 wheeled bikes. Tried to use it when I got my F3L and it was too tippy. I contacted the company many times and they refused to work with my on an adapter for the F3s. So I unloaded the J&S ( and took a killing) and am using a combination of a MoJack XT on front wheels on a tall ramp for rear. Works fine. Was very disappointed in J&S response to my issue.

Their website is pretty sparse on info, so I'm thankful for the OP for his pictures.

My dilemma right now is understanding the pros and cons between a jack such as this and a lift table, such as the TR1500 from Redline (which is designed for rear wheel trikes). I like the table for stability but wonder about accessibility to the underside, particular the rear wheel.

Another option I'm considering is a combination of wheel ramps for the front wheels and a jack such as the J&S for raising the back. The problem with wheel ramps is they can get in the way of work being done on the bike, such as oil change.

With the dearth of qualified shops (or long wait times for an appointment), I'm thinking I will have to be doing more of my own work than I'd expected when I bought our two RTs.

Still mulling it over....

[KyBill]

Does the J&S adapter work with Ryker models or just Spyder? Debating selling my J&S with my 2 wheeler but if it can fit Ryker maybe I’ll hang onto it.

Also re “air version”, remember seeing a post sometime in the past that Northern Tool has an air bottle hydraulic that can fit in the J&S frame for $75 or so, though might need to reverse the mounting in the baseplate or something similar.

[pegasus1300]

Their website is pretty sparse on info, so I'm thankful for the OP for his pictures.

My dilemma right now is understanding the pros and cons between a jack such as this and a lift table, such as the TR1500 from Redline (which is designed for rear wheel trikes). I like the table for stability but wonder about accessibility to the underside, particular the rear wheel.

Another option I'm considering is a combination of wheel ramps for the front wheels and a jack such as the J&S for raising the back. The problem with wheel ramps is they can get in the way of work being done on the bike, such as oil change.

With the dearth of qualified shops (or long wait times for an appointment), I'm thinking I will have to be doing more of my own work than I'd expected when I bought our two RTs.

Still mulling it over....Try reversing the ramps Pete, so you have to back up the ramps. That puts the front ramps pointing forward away from your work. I then jack up the rear and put another ramp under the rear.

[Sarge]

OK ... yeah I know ... But hey, a buck is a buck. I have the cheaper one and used it to lift my 2010 Kawasaki VN1700 Voyager at +900lbs

172261

Same bike but in "Velocity Yellow" (A GM color like Corvette or Camaro) looks much better. She's for sale now that Deb can't ride with me anymore.

$79.99
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/1500-lbs-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-60536.html

OR this one ...

$169.99
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/1500-lbs-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

[bmarkel]

The J & S jack looks identical to the Pitbull Motorcycle Lift made Springville, TN. ( www.pitbullmotorcyclelifts.com) Pierre @ CanAm Spyder Accessories sells them in Canada and has a video of one in use under an RT. He rolls the RT around his shop while lifted to max height.
For what it is worth, TENN FAB, INC. - DBA/Pittbull, claims to have been the original manufacturer of this style of lift.
Mine is built like a tank and is easy to use for lifting both my wife's RT and my F3-S. I've saved more than the cost of the lift in shop fees installing Bump Skids, bags on my F3 and other accessories. Not to mention how much my back loves not bending over the bike to work on it!
Elka shocks are next on my bucket list for the F3-S

[alchaz]

Marty,

I did pretty much the same thing with my APlus MT1500X. Except that I user 2x2 cut to 8" and installed magnets to space the outer rails the correct distance. Also, longer and heavier pipes. This way I can just remove the spacers and slide the side rails in when working on my lawnmower or riding tractor. Also, I put the entrance ramps on the opposite end. This way, I have 2 supports under the front wheels.

Glad to see someone else who is thinking outside the box! :yes:

Allen

[UtahPete]

Marty,

I did pretty much the same thing with my APlus MT1500X. Except that I user 2x2 cut to 8" and installed magnets to space the outer rails the correct distance. Also, longer and heavier pipes. This way I can just remove the spacers and slide the side rails in when working on my lawnmower or riding tractor. Also, I put the entrance ramps on the opposite end. This way, I have 2 supports under the front wheels.

Glad to see someone else who is thinking outside the box! :yes:

Allen

Pictures would be appreciated.