PDA

View Full Version : Welding... Scotty/bjt/anyone....


ataDude
03-05-2009, 09:59 PM
... else with the knowledge.

I may need to weld a rod to the frame as the upper part of of an isolated tail pipe hanger for one side of the dual-sided mufflers I'm building. I used the stock rubber isolator/rod for the left side but am scratching my head for the right. I have the rubber and steel rod but....

Question: With all of the micro-processors we have on board... even with the battery disconnected... is there a potential for harming the processors using my little old 110V / 80 amp wire welder?

Help!
Roaddog2
03-05-2009, 10:07 PM
Worst thing that can happen it could end up looking like Brians :spyder::joke:
ataDude
03-05-2009, 10:12 PM
Worst thing that can happen it could end up looking like Brians :spyder::joke:

Oh, boy. Now, I'll sleep well. :yikes: :D

.
MSGTDOC
03-05-2009, 10:34 PM
I'VE BEEN A WELDER FOR 30 YEARS AND MY WELDER IS A PULSE WITH ONBOARD COMPUTER CHIP. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU SHOULD BE FINE. MAJOR CONCERN IS GAS FUMES. BUT OTHER THAT THAT IF YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY YOU SHOULD BE FINE. I'VE ADDED HOLDING PIPES TO MY WELDER FOR THE STINGER AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK
ataDude
03-05-2009, 10:37 PM
Thanks!


I'VE BEEN A WELDER FOR 30 YEARS AND MY WELDER IS A PULSE WITH ONBOARD COMPUTER CHIP. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU SHOULD BE FINE. MAJOR CONCERN IS GAS FUMES. BUT OTHER THAT THAT IF YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY YOU SHOULD BE FINE. I'VE ADDED HOLDING PIPES TO MY WELDER FOR THE STINGER AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK
gjco
03-05-2009, 10:40 PM
I use to weld at a company that contracted to halliburton. we did all of there maintenance and fab work on all of there trailers and 18 wheelers. When we did all the welding all we did is disconnect the batteries. With all the welding that we did on the Kenworths we never had a problem. I would not hesitate to disconnect the batteries and weld on my own bike.
Sara
03-05-2009, 10:43 PM
--------------before welding, place a good fan opposite the place you're working, blowing air away from the Spyder to the outdoors----could help fumes you can't detect-------
gjco
03-05-2009, 10:51 PM
the fan is a good idea if you are going to Stick weld it. I would assume that you are not going to do it this way. The best would be to TIG weld it, but for this purpose I will assume again that you will be MIG welding your parts. This will work just as good, Just be sure to set the machine up and test your settings on a piece of scrap that is close to the same material that is to be welded.
pathfinderjoe
03-05-2009, 10:57 PM
The most important aspect of welding on any object with sensative electronics to to make certain that you have a good ground. Make sure you remove all paint etc. from the base metal and assure that your ground cable and ground clamp have not degraded over time. Most people never think about changing their ground clamps.:thumbup:
ataDude
03-06-2009, 08:06 AM
MIG. :2thumbs:

.


the fan is a good idea if you are going to Stick weld it. I would assume that you are not going to do it this way. The best would be to TIG weld it, but for this purpose I will assume again that you will be MIG welding your parts. This will work just as good, Just be sure to set the machine up and test your settings on a piece of scrap that is close to the same material that is to be welded.
ataDude
03-06-2009, 08:10 AM
Thanks, all!


I use to weld at a company that contracted to halliburton. we did all of there maintenance and fab work on all of there trailers and 18 wheelers. When we did all the welding all we did is disconnect the batteries. With all the welding that we did on the Kenworths we never had a problem. I would not hesitate to disconnect the batteries and weld on my own bike.


--------------before welding, place a good fan opposite the place you're working, blowing air away from the Spyder to the outdoors----could help fumes you can't detect-------


The most important aspect of welding on any object with sensative electronics to to make certain that you have a good ground. Make sure you remove all paint etc. from the base metal and assure that your ground cable and ground clamp have not degraded over time. Most people never think about changing their ground clamps.:thumbup:
bjt
03-06-2009, 11:17 AM
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
NancysToy
03-06-2009, 12:44 PM
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.
ataDude
03-06-2009, 02:34 PM
Thanks, bjt and Scotty!


I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.


I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.
ataDude
03-06-2009, 08:15 PM
Thanks to all who responded.

As it turned out, I didn't have to weld on the frame at all. I double-stacked a second rubber isolator on the existing frame rod and then ran a 3/8" rod over to the right side pipe. :clap:

.
NancysToy
03-06-2009, 08:46 PM
Thanks to all who responded.

As it turned out, I didn't have to weld on the frame at all. I double-stacked a second rubber isolator on the existing frame rod and then ran a 3/8" rod over to the right side pipe. :clap:

.
That spiked thinking cap in your avatar seems to be working. :D
-Scotty
ataDude
03-06-2009, 08:49 PM
Heh... only after laying on my back on the concrete and staring up at it for about 30 minutes.
.


That spiked thinking cap in your avatar seems to be working. :D
-Scotty
NancysToy
03-06-2009, 08:52 PM
Heh... only after laying on my back on the concrete and staring up at it for about 30 minutes.
.
Yeah, but those "Aha!" moments are so satisfying.
-Scotty
ataDude
03-07-2009, 09:30 PM
.... duals are mostly done. Fitted, ready to bolt together tomorrow after coating and baking tonight. :thumbup:

The stock 2-to-1 is on the left... note that the top inlets are where the troublesome slip-joint gaskets reside. One is still in... kind of. :(

I'll run for a while without a cross-over pipe to see how they perform. The O2 sensor bung is on right pipe... if that doesn't work well, I'll put in the evoluzione sensor eliminator.

More to come.:popcorn:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1285
gjco
03-08-2009, 01:02 AM
Hey atadude what are you going to put at the end of those Bad boys? PIC Please Dont be shy.
ataDude
03-08-2009, 08:53 AM
Hey atadude what are you going to put at the end of those Bad boys? PIC Please Dont be shy.

It's a secret... GSXR 1000 mufflers... triangular, short, black.

.
ataDude
03-11-2009, 03:22 PM
gjco... the related, finished exhaust post:

Clicky: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=78971&postcount=116
.


Hey atadude what are you going to put at the end of those Bad boys? PIC Please Dont be shy.
Big Arm
03-11-2009, 05:27 PM
ata Dude, You are a craftsman !!! CONGRATS !!!
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
ataDude
03-11-2009, 05:52 PM
Thanks.


ata Dude, You are a craftsman !!! CONGRATS !!!
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Lamonster
03-11-2009, 09:10 PM
Nice job Bro. How do they sound?
gjco
03-11-2009, 09:45 PM
great job. looks good. How do you like them?
Director
03-11-2009, 10:23 PM
gjco... the related, finished exhaust post:

Clicky: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=78971&postcount=116
.

That looks fantastic, ataDude! Like a factory option. Very, very professionally done. :congrats:

Bruce
ataDude
03-12-2009, 10:22 AM
Nice job Bro. How do they sound?


great job. looks good. How do you like them?


That looks fantastic, ataDude! Like a factory option. Very, very professionally done. Bruce

Thanks, guys. The sound is a little louder than a Hindle... but not nearly as loud as a Micron. It has a distinctively different sound than any I had, or had heard, so far... you can hear each cylinder doing its job rather than the mix through the 2-to-1.

I love it so far...
M2Wild
03-13-2009, 10:31 AM
ataDude .... since you did your dual, I would like your opinion on this setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270355402353&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...1%7C240%3A1318)

Is it worth it? Thanks.
ataDude
03-13-2009, 11:03 AM
First, for $499, it might be worth it just for the mufflers. I don't know anything about the "Arrow" brand, though, or their resale value.

As for the piping, it retains the 2-to-1 stock junction and just adds an extra 180* turn to get the exhaust out the left side. So, what you have is a 2-to-1-to-2 plumbing routing which appears to be more restrictive than stock. The mufflers (if they're a straight-through design) might offset that, though.

I wouldn't build one that way (I did think about it) but... it does appear to be a easier/cheaper way to get duals. Building one from scratch like I did is a real pain in the rump and a much bigger job than I had originally envisioned.

I'm guessing that if you bought it, and didn't like it, you wouldn't be out much as you could probably sell the mufflers separately for $100-150 each. You're probably risking only about $200 if you wind up selling it piece by piece. I've got more than that just in parts that I didn't use for my setup. :D
.



ataDude .... since you did your dual, I would like your opinion on this setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270355402353&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Is it worth it? Thanks.
M2Wild
03-13-2009, 11:23 AM
As for the piping, it retains the 2-to-1 stock junction and just adds an extra 180* turn to get the exhaust out the left side. So, what you have is a 2-to-1-to-2 plumbing routing which appears to be more restrictive than stock. The mufflers (if they're a straight-through design) might offset that, though.


Very good observation (I missed the 2 to 1 to 2 setup) .... that's why I always ask the experts on this board. :bowdown:

Thank you very much for your input.
ataDude
03-13-2009, 11:52 AM
.... that's why I always ask the experts on this board. :bowdown:

A definition of an expert: "ex" = has been + "spurt" = a drip under pressure:yikes: :D
NancysToy
03-13-2009, 12:02 PM
A definition of an expert: "ex" = has been + "spurt" = a drip under pressure:yikes: :D
Being retired from the water and wastewater industry, that describes me to a "T"! :D
-Scotty
ataDude
03-13-2009, 07:26 PM
Being retired from the water and wastewater industry, that describes me to a "T"! :D
-Scotty

:bowdown: :D

.
ataDude
04-10-2009, 07:53 PM
Welding, round two. During my pre-trip inspection, I noticed that the weld on one of my 3/8" round hangers broke loose (first structural failure I've ever had even though they're ugly).

I disconnected the battery (both terminals), hooked up the ground on the pipe two inches from the weld... and just fired away... with my fingers crossed.

It still runs. :2thumbs:



I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.


I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.