Heads Up for RT622 owners

[PW2013STL]

Decided yesterday to repack my trailer bearings. I did that last year about this same time. Last year the bearings and races looked like new so did the repack. This year expecting the same, but found that three of the four bearings had wear on the rollers and all four races showed wear. Both rears had the most wear. I guess the Alaska trip with the great roads we encountered had an adverse effect on them. :banghead:

I pulled all the races and ordered a set of bearings and races through Amazon from here for under $27.00 including shipping. Grease seals may not fit, but I already have a set of those
Westernprime Trailer Hub Wheel Bearing Kits L44649 L44610 Spindle 1.063'' (1 1/16-Inch) Grease Seal 15192TB I.D. 1.500'' for 2000# EZ Lube Axles

If you have not looked at your trailer bearings you may want to check them to avoid on the road unpleasant surprises.

Once installed I will be ready for Spyderfeust!:yes::yes::yes:

[Bob Denman]

Cruzr Joe had a thread about 622 bearings last year... Thanks for reminding everyone! :clap:
BRP seems to be getting their bearings from the lowest bidder. :banghead:
Replacing them with higher quality pieces, :lecturef_smilie: and lubing them properly, is obviously a cheap preventative course of action! :thumbup:

[Grandpa Pete]

Thanx for the reminder Les:thumbup:

[PW2013STL]

Thanx for the reminder Les:thumbup:

Pete,

If yours needs new bearings let me know. We could do it at my place as long as we have the parts it should not take more then 2 hours to complete.

Les

[ARtraveler]

Thank you for the reminder. That will surely save someone from grief. :yes:

[murphybrown]

End of ryding season, I had my bearings checked. survived NTA. all was good, BUT I did add the Bearing Buddy "system"... just for extra 'insurance' since I pull trailer 90% of my Spyder travels... see you guys soon..... :yes:

[WA5VHU]

Let's all remember this thread (I know I will) next time you folks want to jump into another thread about the Harbor Freight or whatever you consider to be Chinese (or other places) junk trailers with their cheap bearings and/or tiny little wheels.

I haven't had any problems with mine and there are some here with 50,000 plus miles with no bearing problems.

I will climb off my high horse now and leave you folks up there in the saddle. Happy traylering.


Charles

[PW2013STL]

End of ryding season I had my bearings checked.survived NTA .all was good BUT I did add the Bearing Buddy "system"... just for extra 'insurance' since I pull trailer 90% of my Spyder travels...see you guys soon.....:yes:

Karyl,

I am considering adding the Bearing Buddy in the hopes that it supplies more grease to the rear bearings. See you and the rest of the NTA group on 4/26 :ohyea:

[Brentc]

Decided yesterday to repack my trailer bearings. I did that last year about this same time. Last year the bearings and races looked like new so did the repack. This year expecting the same, but found that three of the four bearings had wear on the rollers and all four races showed wear. Both rears had the most wear. I guess the Alaska trip with the great roads we encountered had an adverse effect on them. :banghead:

I pulled all the races and ordered a set of bearings and races through Amazon from here for under $27.00 including shipping. Grease seals may not fit, but I already have a set of those
Westernprime Trailer Hub Wheel Bearing Kits L44649 L44610 Spindle 1.063'' (1 1/16-Inch) Grease Seal 15192TB I.D. 1.500'' for 2000# EZ Lube Axles

If you have not looked at your trailer bearings you may want to check them to avoid on the road unpleasant surprises.

Once installed I will be ready for Spyderfeust!:yes::yes::yes:

I just was looking at the BRP parts breakdown for the RT 622 that I have, 2010. Did I read it correctly that you cannot get bearings separately? You have to buy the entire hub assembly? How can I determine what bearings I need? I'd like to replace the ones I have.
Any assistance appreciated.

[IGETAROUND]

Would be my strong suspicion that no matter the year BRP most likely kept the exact same axles and bearings. The quoted set of bearing replacements in this thread would appear to have you covered. And if on the outside they are the wrong bearings and races, you're not out much if any money if you go with the amazon link provided. Just my thoughts; which are frequently incorrect :yes: :yes: :yes:

Here is the link: Westernprime Trailer Hub Wheel Bearing Kits L44649 L44610 Spindle 1.063'' (1 1/16-Inch) Grease Seal 15192TB I.D. 1.500'' for 2000# EZ Lube Axles

[PW2013STL]

Brentc; You are correct BRP doesn't offer the bearings, or the seals. :banghead:

The link in my first post will work for you as well, and I checked on the seals that come with the kit and they are the correct ones.

Can't go wrong for the price. :thumbup:

[Brentc]

Brentc; You are correct BRP doesn't offer the bearings, or the seals. :banghead:

The link in my first post will work for you as well, and I checked on the seals that come with the kit and they are the correct ones.

Can't go wrong for the price. :thumbup:

Great info. However, now I have another to do on the list.......

Oh well, I guess it's the price we pay for ryding. :shocked:

[Brentc]

Any special tools required to get the bearings out? My trailer is t the shop getting painted, but when it gets back I want to pull the wheels and check the bearings.

[nslowmotion]

End of ryding season I had my bearings checked. survived NTA, all was good, BUT I did add the Bearing Buddy "system"... just for extra 'insurance' since I pull trailer 90% of my Spyder travels... see you guys soon..... :yes:

which bearing buddy fits on the trailer behind the rim?

[PW2013STL]

Any special tools required to get the bearings out? My trailer is t the shop getting painted, but when it gets back I want to pull the wheels and check the bearings.

The bearings slide in and out by hand, but the races require a puller to remove and a stepped plate to install without damage.

When you pull the hub and if the bearings look and feel (spin them slowly and feel for any rough spots as well as lessen for any noise) good then just repack them. If bad you can take the hubs to trailer shop and have them r and r them.

[PW2013STL]

which bearing buddy fits on the trailer behind the rim?

Number 1980ss is what I ordered.

[rcturner]

I don't intend to be a smart a** here but, do these bearings really require repacking? From my days of hand packing bearings, (40 years ago) most bearing issues were encountered after repacking. The issues were generally caused by leaving solvent in the bearings from cleaning or from preload adjustments being incorrect. In todays world, you seldom repack the rear bearings on your front wheel drive car or front wheels on your 2 wheel drive pickup. Again, and just as a question, is repacking really necessary? If re-greasing is necessary, would Bearing Buddies be a better solution?

[pitzerwm]

Ordered a set, as I figure, I'll need them sooner or later.

[scott16119]

I don't intend to be a smart a** here but, do these bearings really require repacking? From my days of hand packing bearings, (40 years ago) most bearing issues were encountered after repacking. The issues were generally caused by leaving solvent in the bearings from cleaning or from preload adjustments being incorrect. In todays world, you seldom repack the rear bearings on your front wheel drive car or front wheels on your 2 wheel drive pickup. Again, and just as a question, is repacking really necessary? If re-greasing is necessary, would Bearing Buddies be a better solution?

Forty years ago, most wheels were 14" or 15" or larger. You are right, you didn't need much bearing maintenance then. The smaller wheels on these trailers spin much faster. As far as the rear wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car, the bearings are all maintenance free bearings. I'm not familiar with two-wheel drive pickups, but my guess would be most all standard duty modern day cars and pickups have maintenance free bearings...

[PW2013STL]

I don't intend to be a smart a** here but, do these bearings really require repacking? From my days of hand packing bearings, (40 years ago) most bearing issues were encountered after repacking. The issues were generally caused by leaving solvent in the bearings from cleaning or from preload adjustments being incorrect. In todays world, you seldom repack the rear bearings on your front wheel drive car or front wheels on your 2 wheel drive pickup. Again, and just as a question, is repacking really necessary? If re-greasing is necessary, would Bearing Buddies be a better solution?

I do not use solvent. What I do is wipe them down with paper towels as best that I can and then using clean grease hand pack them forcing out the old grease. I like to do this as then I can inspect them and replace as needed to prevent issues on the road.
The Manuel that comes with the trailer recommends this be done yearly, or after so any miles.
There have been a number of reports here of bearings going out and one account that I read had less then 1000 miles on their trailer - so yes I think it needs to be done.

As for the Bearning Buddies I will be installing a set in the hopes that it will help keep the rear bearings in grease due to the pressure from the spring as well as keeping out contaminits trying to enter pass the rear seal.

Even with the Bearing Buddies I still plan on inspecting the bearings once a year, but that's me.

[cptjam]

Any bearing shop or most industrial supply house:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=125478&stc=1

[cptjam]

These work great! Joe

[stillnjeve]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

[Peter Aawen]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

:oldpost: Cptjam is still around stillnjeve, so he might see this & answer; but this thread is from back in 2016, so it might be a good idea to send a PM...

It ALWAYS pays to check at least the date on the opening post in a thread, AND the last few posts in the thread before posting a new question! :lecturef_smilie:

That's not saying you shouldn't bring up any old threads, if it's adding to the knowledge base, it's always better to keep it in one place rather than creating yet another thread and making it harder for EVERYONE/ANYONE to find the complete range of info; just don't be in a hurry for responses. :thumbup:

[PMK]

What puller did you use for getting the race out? I can't see how anything would grip the races. Cheers from Australia.

The bearing cups on the RT622 hubs were not intended to be removed by design. There is no edge or lip of the bearing exposed that allows driving out the bearing cups.

I replaced bearings on a local riders RT622 years ago. For that task, it required that I create the means to get to the bearing cup. For that, with the hub off and degreased, I used a straight die grinder, with a carbide rotary file and by hand carefully cut two notches per bearing cup area in each hub casting. This semi circular notch allowed me to drive out the old bearing cups. With the cups removed, again by hand with the same tools, I made each notch cut, look pretty, uniform and as if made at oem.

I did not use the welding technique, and will not if ever replacing bearings on our RT622, but many say this works. You use a stick welder or MIG welder and run a simple bead around the bearing cups wear surface. Word is, as the weld cools, the bearing cup shrinks and will drop out. Never tried this, but have read it works.

Overall though, a poor design unless you just replace the hubs as Can Am expects. Notching the hub is easier and less risky, but does require proper tools. You might get it done with a Dremel, but I doubt it and it would take a long time. The die grinder and carbide cutter, for all 4 areas took maybe 30 minutes from start to tools put away.

[PW2013STL]

I have a 3 arm puller that expands outward and it treads onto my 5# slide hammer. By tightening the puller as tight as I can between the hub and race edge with a few good hits with the slide hammer I was able to move the race enough to get the puller arms behind the race. From there its just a matter of working the slide hammer to finish pulling the race out.
You might scratch the hub, but the new race will cover those, and will not effect the bearings.