MY BROKEN RT...

[PatriotRider]

If I in fact have a defective, lemon machine, I assume I have to take it up with Can Am. Anyone have any contacts with them or advice of who I call, email, or contact concerning my situation.

There is a "certified" Spyder mechanic nearby. Do you advise I bring it to him and let him check it out and see what he finds?

from previous thread, my new to me 2010 RT SE5 had an oil problem yesterday with oil light coming on. The story is doing 70+ on a state highway, all is well, light comes on, I look for a safe place...Chevron fuel station in sight, and pull in shutting it off. Almost immediately in that distance at speed, engine begins clunking.

I bought the bike exactly 2 weeks ago on Aug 25.
originally purchased in Aug 2010...first owner through a dealership/broker on commission, sells me the bike...5 yrs old with 1450 miles on it. It shows now 1800, so I put 350 miles on it till it broke.

thanx for any advice or support you can give...I'm admittedly devasted...first payment isn't even till Oct 15th :banghead:

[SpyderAnn01]

I'm pretty sure that lemon laws only apply to the first owner of a vehicle. You need to take it to a BRP mechanic to find out what is wrong. Did you get any kind of warranty from the place you purchased it?

Were you able to restart the Spyder? Did you look for error codes? Push the Mode, Set and Turn Signal Cancel buttons at the same time, with the key on, and tell us if there are any codes there. If you have no codes the screen will be blank. Just saw your other post.

[murphybrown]

Are you checking your oil, per instructions? my '10 RT luved it's oil...Granted mileage is low, but are you dealing with all new fluids, levels, etc. etc. etc.? Yep spend the $ and take to a certified Spyder dealer...ask if the tech has been around the 998 engine...different "animal" from the 1330. Lemon law...this is JMHO...no facts...but thinking a '10 is past that. Never hurts to contact BRP customer service directly...I find them great/helpful folks to work with.

[Chupaca]

You can't do much till it is checked out at a dealer and they can determine what has happened. Once you know you can start checking with your warranty company, if any, and brp if it was caused by a not wear part . Hope they find it is not as serious as it sounds to you....

[PMK]

Add 1/2 a quart oil. Fire it up. Damage if any has been done. I would expect a shop will do the same to troublshoot it.

PK

[Bob Denman]

Was the dealer that you purchased it through also a Spyder Dealer? :dontknow:

[retread]

First, get the VIN of your Spyder, then, check with a dealer to see what kind of work and/or problems are on it's record. I'm thinking the previous owner had a reason for selling.

john

[bruiser]

I responded on his other thread on General discussion. Yes, take it to a certified dealer tech. BUDS will show the trail of service By a Can Am dealer only. I would still contact BRP Customer Service and have them start a ticket on it. What I'm afraid of is the age of the bike. Because it is five years old and a pre owned unit, there may be little BRP can do warranty wise nor are they obligated to. My suggestion, take it up with the selling dealer and the previous owner.

[Bob Denman]

:agree: You should have some recourse against at least one of them...
Please let us know what happens next; Good Luck! :thumbup:

[Mickay]

Look if you have the o-ring on your oil cap,...Last time i check my oil level the o-ring fall down and i put back the oil cap. A few miles after spyder throwing some motor and transmission code...And like you i was riding at 70mph. So i go out of the highway to check my oil level , at that time i realise the o-ring missing...It cause some air leak in the oil tank and affect the pressure for the pump...the oil is not feeding trought the motor as fast has it need. At home i put oem o-ring...and road test all code are gone.



If I in fact have a defective, lemon machine, I assume I have to take it up with Can Am. Anyone have any contacts with them or advice of who I call, email, or contact concerning my situation.

There is a "certified" Spyder mechanic nearby. Do you advise I bring it to him and let him check it out and see what he finds?

from previous thread, my new to me 2010 RT SE5 had an oil problem yesterday with oil light coming on. The story is doing 70+ on a state highway, all is well, light comes on, I look for a safe place...Chevron fuel station in sight, and pull in shutting it off. Almost immediately in that distance at speed, engine begins clunking.

I bought the bike exactly 2 weeks ago on Aug 25.
originally purchased in Aug 2010...first owner through a dealership/broker on commission, sells me the bike...5 yrs old with 1450 miles on it. It shows now 1800, so I put 350 miles on it till it broke.

thanx for any advice or support you can give...I'm admittedly devasted...first payment isn't even till Oct 15th :banghead:

[PatriotRider]

Can Am, based on being out of warranty for 3 yrs, declined to do anything after the certified mechanic opened a ticket and documented what he found, and my followup contacting them as well.

To get it back on the road, my choices are replacing the engine with a used one from a salvage yard, or a more expensive repair of the broken engine which both top & bottom end are toast.

Now they are saying damaged parts of the clutch went into the engine clogging the oil flow.

:shocked:

[Thunderduck]

The Lemon Laws in Florida only apply to cars, not motorcycles. I was having problems with mine pulling to the right when I took my hands off the handle bars. This is what I received from BRP, they told me that was a built in Safety feature. So if you a person would fall asleep while driving it would take them off the road without hitting another car.

[Bob Denman]

:welcome: But the O.P. is in Louisiana... How do the laws apply there?

[taxmyzer]

The Lemon Laws in Florida only apply to cars, not motorcycles. I was having problems with mine pulling to the right when I took my hands off the handle bars. This is what I received from BRP, they told me that was a built in Safety feature. So if you a person would fall asleep while driving it would take them off the road without hitting another car.

That makes no sense. What if you're in the far left lane of 2 or 3 lane road? I guess the bike should pull to the left so you hit the divider.

[Utah Geezer]

Sorry to hear this. Doubting that the previous owner knew of the problem prior to selling the machine to you. Don't think he could have disguised this to sell it to you without it being obviously issued. Sounds like bad luck and timing. Hope you can get it back on the road soon. Weigh your options and do what you think will get you the best bang for your buck. Both options have their pros and cons. Can you get a warranty on the used engine for 90 days or so and will the dealership warranty their work if they rebuild your broken engine for a certain amount of time.

Good luck,


Can Am, based on being out of warranty for 3 yrs, declined to do anything after the certified mechanic opened a ticket and documented what he found, and my followup contacting them as well.

To get it back on the road, my choices are replacing the engine with a used one from a salvage yard, or a more expensive repair of the broken engine which both top & bottom end are toast.

Now they are saying damaged parts of the clutch went into the engine clogging the oil flow.

:shocked:

[007james]

Has any member ever gotten Quotes on havng their 998 Engine completely rebuilt? If so, does the Manufacturer do the rebuilding of the old engines, or just the Core? I wonder if there are any Dealers fully capable of doing complete engine overhauls? And, if so, approximate price? I have only seen used engines from salvage yards sold on eBay once in awile, but with no guarentee if they even run, much less waurentees. Reading the mileage Threads here, it appears the conscensise of mechanics is 100,000 miles expectation on the 998 is a reasonable number, if routine mantenance is done. Then, I am wondereing if the cost to rebuild the engine complete with new clutch, etc. Vs. buying a brand new engine would be worth keeping the Spyder, or trading it in, as is , for a new 1330 six speed? Many of us prefer the 998 over the 1330 for personal
reasons, such as we like the Vibes of the V- Twin haven become addicted to our V- Twin 2 Wheelers throbbing along for the last 30-40 years! At 100,000 miles. I would assume all accessories would also need overhaul, including Throttle-bodies, radiator, etc. Thanks. 007james



Sorry to hear this. Doubting that the previous owner knew of the problem prior to selling the machine to you. Don't think he could have disguised this to sell it to you without it being obviously issued. Sounds like bad luck and timing. Hope you can get it back on the road soon. Weigh your options and do what you think will get you the best bang for your buck. Both options have their pros and cons. Can you get a warranty on the used engine for 90 days or so and will the dealership warranty their work if they rebuild your broken engine for a certain amount of time.

Good luck,

[finless]

So just some things I have read here over 2 years about the clutch comping apart and damaging the engine.

There was a guy that posted this same issue about 8 months ago or so. He too was out of warranty. He pressed BRP and fought with them for a while and eventually they did help him out. His thread is here too somewhere. As I recall they funded they engine replacement / rebuild and he paid labor or some part of it.

As for engine rebuild or a new engine. A new engine is about $7K last time I checked. No clue what they charge for labor to replace it.
There is a thread here where a guy DIY an engine rebuild himself and shared many pictures and discussions. It's a really good thread should you decide to do that.

Now another story. A friend of mine has a 2011 RT. He decided to do his own oil change and put the filter in backwards and burned up his engine. The dealer replaced the engine and it cost him $9K all up. This was about 2 years ago so that probably will be more today.


Just some info.

Bob

[PatriotRider]

So just some things I have read here over 2 years about the clutch comping apart and damaging the engine.

There was a guy that posted this same issue about 8 months ago or so. He too was out of warranty. He pressed BRP and fought with them for a while and eventually they did help him out. His thread is here too somewhere. As I recall they funded they engine replacement / rebuild and he paid labor or some part of it.

As for engine rebuild or a new engine. A new engine is about $7K last time I checked. No clue what they charge for labor to replace it.
There is a thread here where a guy DIY an engine rebuild himself and shared many pictures and discussions. It's a really good thread should you decide to do that.

Now another story. A friend of mine has a 2011 RT. He decided to do his own oil change and put the filter in backwards and burned up his engine. The dealer replaced the engine and it cost him $9K all up. This was about 2 years ago so that probably will be more today.


Just some info.

Bob

to fix the engine with a rebuilt was quoted $5500...rebuild both the bottom and top end. I was offered $3000 to trade the current engineless bike in on a new one. The sales mgr/service mgr said they would replace it with a new and complete engine for $7000 their cost..

certified mechanic strongly requested of BRP technical division the I pay labor and BRP provide parts courtesy assistance and was denied as of this date. They merely harp on the fact the bike is a 2010 and is out of warranty 3 years. Within the first warrantyless year, it is more common for courtesy assistance.

In the crotch rocket/sport touring world, used engines from insurance claim recoverys and picked up at auction by salvage companies are used to replace blown engines all the time. I personally know of two. On ebay were sales of engines with attached video showing a bike with bent forks into the radiator, but the engine running & purring. They then pull the engine, put it on a shelf, and sell it. One has to be careful...there are complete engines and "short units." A complete engine is everything bolted to the case less the fuel injection unit. Starter, Stator/Alternator, Clutch, etc.
A used engine currently for sale is $1900. Labor for swap is $1500.
But yooz take ya chanzez.