flashing cam an on dash

[Thundercat]

Battery went dead and was replaced. Bike fire right up now but the dash just lights up can am then will go blank and repeat. I've pressed the mode button. The bike will start without pressing the mode button. Is there a reset somewhere.

[Mazo EMS2]

Year and model?

[Thundercat]

2012 RT SE5

[HamburgerHelper]

You have flakey ground.
Look for a ring connector left off the negative terminal of the battery

[Thundercat]

OK I'll check that out

[Thundercat]

I checked the grounds they appear to be tight I even wiggled wires with the bike running with no change. The dash continues to flash can am.

[Bob Denman]

Try disconnecting the battery, and see if that allows the system to clear it's throat...

[Mazo EMS2]

Could this be a DESS issue? Is this one of those cases where the battery has to be reconnected, key pulled out and "taken for a walk" while the battery is reconnected and system resets? Just asking for my own knowledge as well.

[Thundercat]

I disconnected the battery n still the same thing. Is it safe to ride until I figure this out

[HamburgerHelper]

I still believe you have a bad/disconnected ground.
Since you replaced the battery it was logical to assume it was there but it could be anywhere.

[Bob Denman]

:agree: Since that's the last thing that was fiddled-with; it's the first place to start the search. :thumbup:

[PMK]

Someone else recently had some odd electrical problem, almost think it was the same flashing screen.

As I recall, there are two ground wires and the other topic found that the person only connected one ground wire when they replaced the battery.

Don't kill me if I'm wrong...

PK

[Thundercat]

Both grounds are hooked up. I tried the key away from the bike thing but then I remembered I have the spare key in the frunk. So I'll try it again tomorrow. I'm suppose to ride about 160 miles tomorrow do you think it will be ok? I hate to take this thing to a dealer and find out it was something simple.

[HamburgerHelper]

Both grounds are hooked up. I tried the key away from the bike thing but then I remembered I have the spare key in the frunk. So I'll try it again tomorrow. I'm suppose to ride about 160 miles tomorrow do you think it will be ok? I hate to take this thing to a dealer and find out it was something simple.

A constantly rebooting display module can't be a good thing for longevity. Yours or your Spyder's.

[Thundercat]

OK checked every ground I could see, wiggled wires, unhooked the battery several times no luck. Guess I'll have it towed to a dealer. Sad thing is the closest dealer is about 100 miles. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know the turnout

[billybovine]

OK checked every ground I could see, wiggled wires, unhooked the battery several times no luck. Guess I'll have it towed to a dealer. Sad thing is the closest dealer is about 100 miles. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know the turnout

Did you check the negative and positive jumper posts under the seat. Make sure it is tight. Warning do not loosen the negative if it is tight. It is a bear to tighten again.

If you have a volt meter. It would be interesting to know the voltage of the system. At rest and with the engine running.

[Thundercat]

Jumper ground is tight. 12v not running n 13v idle run

[HamburgerHelper]

Here's something to try.
1. Connect one jumper cable end (use black for example) to the Negative Post of the battery
2. Connect other end (other black end) to some point on the frame like the rolled gas tank lip running under the tupperware.

Try starting it & see if the reboot happens.

[HamburgerHelper]

Here's why I still believe probably have a ground problem.

I realize there could be wide variations in voltmeter accuracy or even how you report the voltages, but having said that here's my take.
You should actually read 12.7 Volts at rest and something close to 13.8 at idle or above 2500 rpm.
If you don't there are three possible reasons that come to mind.

1. You are rounding off the numbers or have a free Harbor Freight Voltmeter.
2. Your charging system has a problem.
3. You have a high resistance ground connection that is eating part of the voltage.

My vote is number 3.

If you measured the voltage with respect to frame ground and not the negative terminal then the voltage gap of a half a volt or so is significant.

The display will reboot if it sees a voltage of less that 12.4V or so and the only reason it would see that would be either your charging system isn't working (stator or voltage regulator) or a bad ground.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[Thundercat]

You are correct it's a voltmeter from harbor. Ran jumper like you said still doing the same thing.

[HamburgerHelper]

You are correct it's a voltmeter from harbor. Ran jumper like you said still doing the same thing.
Okay I have to say UNCLE on the ground thing.

Have you tried replugging the relays in your fusebox?

[Thundercat]

I've pulled the 2 n 3 relay I believe n checked all the fuses. I read somewhere about switching relays but can't remember which ones

[billybovine]

The display will reboot if it sees a voltage of less that 12.4V or so.

I am not sure of your source for the 12.4V but that has to be incorrect. During engine crank a new fully charged battery would have trouble maintaining 11V and BRP states in in the service manual anything above 10V is acceptable.

[gypsy_100]

Jumper ground is tight. 12v not running n 13v idle run


Here's why I still believe probably have a ground problem.

You should actually read 12.7 Volts at rest and something close to 13.8 at idle or above 2500 rpm.

The display will reboot if it sees a voltage of less that 12.4V or so and the only reason it would see that would be either your charging system isn't working (stator or voltage regulator) or a bad ground.



I am not sure of your source for the 12.4V but that has to be incorrect. During engine crank a new fully charged battery would have trouble maintaining 11V and BRP states in in the service manual anything above 10V is acceptable.

But you have to admit that the 12 and 13 (if accurate), do indicate a problem. The voltage definitely should be 12.6 or 12.7 minimum at rest -- and it's important to note that must be truly at rest, several hours after being charged or the engine run. Immediately after being charged or the engine has been run (and charging), the voltage will be higher and taper off gradually. The BRP spec for charging for the 998's is 13.0-14.0 V at 4,000 rpm with high beams on, both grips on Hi, nothing else turned on. When I checked mine several times while running, it never went below 13.8V, even at idle. So either Thundercat's voltmeter is off by 0.7 V or he's got a problem with too low a voltage, using my 2011RT's voltage as a standard for comparison.

[HamburgerHelper]

I am not sure of your source for the 12.4V but that has to be incorrect. During engine crank a new fully charged battery would have trouble maintaining 11V and BRP states in in the service manual anything above 10V is acceptable.
A typo
I calculate it as 11.4V (a nominal 12V minus a 0.6 V diode drop which is standard for LSI modules, but I won't defend it any further.

[loisk]

Maybe it's an even simpler solution - new battery is a dud ?? It does happen...