Gauges (Newbie)

[PatriotRider]

after searching and reading:

pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

TIA

[Bensonoid]

after searching and reading:

pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

TIA
You might want to consider a power supply on that side. When I did mine there was the spade connector that was power and a bullet connector that was the ground.

[Bob Denman]

While I admit that the fuel gauges on the 2010 RTs weren't the most accurate ones I've ever seen... :gaah:

The one on my 2014 IS!.:2thumbs:
(Sorry; I just had to brag a little bit... I feel better now... :shocked:)

[Bensonoid]

While I admit that the fuel gauges on the 2010 RTs weren't the most accurate ones I've ever seen... :gaah:

The one on my 2014 IS!.:2thumbs:
(Sorry; I just had to brag a little bit... I feel better now... :shocked:)
Is the clock any better? Or am I expecting too much all at once?

[Pampurrs]

I also disabled my analog gauges a couple of days ago. Now I have two dead gauges sitting there doing nothing. I would love to have a volt meter like the OP asked about. If anyone can post wiring instructions that would be much appreciated.

I was going to post this question anyway, but since PatriotRider posted it, I'll just politely hijack it ;)

Pam

[rhinozxq]

The answer to the power for the volt meter is to connect your positive wire from the volt meter to the red spade wire that was connected to your analog gauge and your negative wire from the volt meter to the center pole of the 3 hole connector that was on the back of your analog gauge.

You can power a clock the same way except that a clock also needs an always on power to accurately keep time. My question is what is close to these gauges that I can use for and always on power source for my new led clock?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115390&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115391&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115389&stc=1

[Bob Denman]

Is the clock any better? Or am I expecting too much all at once?
The clock still gains about three minutes each Month... :gaah:

[Pampurrs]

after searching and reading:

pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

TIA

What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

Pam

[Cruzr Joe]

What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

Pam


The openings on the dash (after you remove the gauges) need a 52MM Voltmeter or other type of device.


Cruzr Joe

[Pampurrs]

The openings on the dash (after you remove the gauges) need a 52MM Voltmeter or other type of device.


Cruzr Joe

Thanks Joe :thumbup:

Pam

[SpyderAnn01]

I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.

[Cruzr Joe]

I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.


Except to make your dash look cooler.


Cruzr Joe

[Pampurrs]

I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.

I disabled mine simply because I prefer the digital gauges. Plus, now I can install a volt meter which I've had on previous bikes and really miss.

Pam

[fratzba]

I disabled mine on my '15 RTS because I wanted to use the space for power. One dual USB, and one "cigarette lighter" socket.

-Fratz

[Cruzr Joe]

I disabled mine on my '15 RTS because I wanted to use the space for power. One dual USB, and one "cigarette lighter" socket.

-Fratz


I hope that you put the Cigarette Lighter on its own wiring and fuse, the wiring that is there can handle the USB, but not a 12 Volt socket.


Cruzr joe

[PatriotRider]

What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

Pam

ebay search '2" digital voltmeter gauge'

I went with a XTune at $49
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtune-Digital-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-52MM-Smoke-GA-D6238-/271792017959?hash=item3f48111227&vxp=mtr


the JDM and "no names" ($20ish) had complaints on "bleed through" light coming through, so I went with the recommended next level up unit with a next level up price
many many went with the JDM cause of price with no complaint

anything measuring 2" or 52mm will work

I'm putting a clock in the left side hole
blue digits $39
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291553900915?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
yes, will have to have available switched & unswitched power


I'll post a followup when installed & some experience riding

[PatriotRider]

final decision on the clock is this one with blue digits and yellow bar graph...matches the voltmeter look I already purchased

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201008639085?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[manxman]

after searching and reading:

pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

TIA
Are you selling those gauges ? if so email me. manxman80@hotmail.com

[PatriotRider]

Are you selling those gauges ? if so email me. manxman80@hotmail.com

sorry, no
someone posted a question for more specific info on what I'm doing
I purchased these gauges new for my own use on current gauge replacement project

best to you

[M109Dreamer]

I disabled mine simply because I prefer the digital gauges. Plus, now I can install a volt meter which I've had on previous bikes and really miss.

Pam
Pam,
I have the one below for the voltmeter. I used posi-taps to get the power from the wires coming off the plug. This way if I ever want to change it back I can throw the stock gauges back in and not having to cut any wires.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/271792017959?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F7 11-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5575056175%26toolid%3D1000 1%26campid%3D5337487392%26customid%3D35386%26mpre% 3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252FXtun e-Digital-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-52MM-Smoke-GA-D6238-%252F271792017959%253Fhash%253Ditem3f48111227%2526 vxp%253Dmtr%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D894238024841&_mwBanner=1

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[Pampurrs]

Pam,
I have the one below for the voltmeter. I used posi-taps to get the power from the wires coming off the plug. This way if I ever want to change it back I can throw the stock gauges back in and not having to cut any wires.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/271792017959?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F7 11-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5575056175%26toolid%3D1000 1%26campid%3D5337487392%26customid%3D35386%26mpre% 3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252FXtun e-Digital-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-52MM-Smoke-GA-D6238-%252F271792017959%253Fhash%253Ditem3f48111227%2526 vxp%253Dmtr%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D894238024841&_mwBanner=1

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What gauge wire is that so I know which posi-taps to order?

Thanks

Pam

[M109Dreamer]

What gauge wire is that so I know which posi-taps to order?

Thanks

Pam
20-22 ga. The ones with the grey end piece. They are a little snug getting on but I like then smaller versus going up to the larger size because it gives the wire less chance to roll inside the connector and makes sure that the splice/point of the connector (middle) section hits the wire in the middle.

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[Pampurrs]

20-22 ga. The ones with the grey end piece. They are a little snug getting on but I like then smaller versus going up to the larger size because it gives the wire less chance to roll inside the connector and makes sure that the splice/point of the connector (middle) section hits the wire in the middle.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Thanks :bowdown:

I hope I get to meet you before you move to Texas!

Pam

[M109Dreamer]

Thanks :bowdown:

I hope I get to meet you before you move to Texas!

Pam
Me too. Everything is moving fast. Packer are coming next week.

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[PMK]

The clock still gains about three minutes each Month... :gaah:

Agree, the oem digital clock is cool but a joke, it can not keep accurate time.

Leave it to BRP to screw up a digital clock. I can ever recall a digital clock that was not accurate.

PK

[Pampurrs]

The clock still gains about three minutes each Month... :gaah:

During the three months I've had my :spyder2:, the clock has gained two minutes. That's not bad considering how many times I've used the flux capacitor to get through the space-time continuum.:dontknow:

Pam

[finless]

My opinion. For the new Spyder with the new gauges, I would not tap into the 12V coming to the gauge!

The old style gauges had 4 wires.
12V to run the light bulb in the gauge.
A ground line.
And 2 wires that run the gauge, one of which will read 12V with a meter.

The new gauges DO NOT have the dedicated 12V line to power the light bulb as the new gauges now use a low power LED for a light.
Thus they only have 3 wires now as part of the new gauge plug.
Thus this 12V line that ran the light bulb is now missing!
The other lines run through the cluster!
You are taking a risk tapping into these lines to run a gauge and possibly taking out the cluster (dash).

It's happened before to people with the old gauges when they did not tap into the 12V light bulb line and tapped into the 12V line coming from the cluster.

So be aware!

If I was to do this on a 2015 with the new gauges, I would run a proper 12V line.

Bob