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copilot
08-18-2015, 07:35 AM
A lot of people have replaced the rear tire on their Spyder and was wondering what is the best way to determine if the axle bolt is properly tightened?

Highwayman2013
08-18-2015, 08:22 AM
Torque wrench.

Bob Denman
08-18-2015, 08:54 AM
:D Yup! :thumbup:
There's nothing magical about it; just use the right tools, for the right job! :2thumbs:

pegasus1300
08-18-2015, 10:08 AM
If you don't have one Auto Zone or O'Rielly's will rent you one cheap. Or you can go to Harbor Freight and buy one for 10 bucks. Not the best in the world but adequate for the amount that you will use it.

copilot
08-19-2015, 05:31 AM
If you're using a torque wrench, are you going to torque the nut side or bolt side and where would a person get this torque information. I have never heard of a nut and bolt being torqued. I guess two torque wrenches on both sides or something like that so both sides are equally torqued.

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 07:01 AM
You put the torque wrench onto the nut... (The side being tightened.) :thumbup:

You have your lovely assistant hang onto the bolt-end of the deal! :clap:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113970&stc=1

copilot
08-19-2015, 07:12 AM
So what would this be torqued to?

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 07:40 AM
According to my 2014 RT manual: 155 to 177 pound/feet of torque.
It's in the specifications section at the back of the manual.

Dan McNally
08-19-2015, 07:56 AM
According to my 2014 RT manual: 155 to 177 pound/feet of torque.
It's in the specifications section at the back of the manual.


Only six of us have ever read the manual, Bob. (yes, SpyderAnn01 - I know you are one of the six! ) :roflblack:

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 08:12 AM
:lecturef_smilie: There will be a quiz, at the end of Class... :shocked:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aa3HXdqNWIM

finless
08-19-2015, 08:35 AM
According to my 2014 RT manual: 155 to 177 pound/feet of torque.
It's in the specifications section at the back of the manual.

Previous years it was 99 lbf. This came up before and some think 115 to 177 is too high and possibly a misprint!
My manual for my 2011 RTS says 99 lbf.
If they raised it in 2014, I do not know why as far as I know nothing else changed with the rear tire and axel setup!

Bob

trikermutha
08-19-2015, 09:15 AM
Just did mine 166lbf on a 2014 RTL

Chupaca
08-19-2015, 09:34 AM
2012 RS manual recommends 96 lbs. That seems to be the the area 95-100 lbs but I have not seen the other manuals. :dontknow:

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 10:12 AM
Previous years it was 99 lbf. This came up before and some think 115 to 177 is too high and possibly a misprint!
My manual for my 2011 RTS says 99 lbf.
If they raised it in 2014, I do not know why as far as I know nothing else changed with the rear tire and axel setup!

Bob


Just did mine 166lbf on a 2014 RTL


2012 RS manual recommends 96 lbs. That seems to be the the area 95-100 lbs but I have not seen the other manuals. :dontknow:

The moral to THIS story...

Read your manual! :thumbup:

AeroPilot
08-19-2015, 11:08 AM
The moral to THIS story...

Read your manual! :thumbup:

I know that the manuals shows a much higher torque rating for the 2014-2015 models and to some extent I agree that the higher belt tension/HP/Torque to the rear axle may warrant some of thisg.

The 1/2" torque wrench and crowfoot allow you to get on the right side easily enough, and a Big A crescent with cheater as backup on the left will work, but it still feels a little heavy handed to torque it that high. Did they change the grade of steel used in the axle?

A 36 MM socket and 25" breaker bar hold backup well when I hold it down with one knee (I don't have Bob's lovely assistant), and 120 ft-lbs feels right to me on a cleaned and lightly lubed nut and axle combo. JMHO. I have done the last two tire changes and no problem so far with about 5,000 miles running.....

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 01:32 PM
:shocked: Should that nut be getting any lube on it, before it gets torqued??? :shocked:
I seem to vaguely recall reading something about that once... :dontknow:

AeroPilot
08-19-2015, 05:17 PM
:shocked: Should that nut be getting any lube on it, before it gets torqued??? :shocked:
I seem to vaguely recall reading something about that once... :dontknow:

All I found was some other links regarding reducing torque for wet or oiled fittings. They suggest reducing the spec dry torque by 10-25% depending on source. They also note that torque should not be reduced if Loctite or similar is applied, but it just doesn't feel right:bowdown:

:dontknow:

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html




http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf

Bob Denman
08-19-2015, 05:31 PM
Thanks for this info about wet torque... :thumbup:

Glad to see that nobody is getting "torqued-up", and arguing over any of this!! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

IGETAROUND
08-19-2015, 07:30 PM
2014 RS 98 FtLbf for rear axle :dontknow:

IdahoMtnSpyder
08-19-2015, 08:05 PM
If you're using a torque wrench, are you going to torque the nut side or bolt side and where would a person get this torque information. I have never heard of a nut and bolt being torqued. I guess two torque wrenches on both sides or something like that so both sides are equally torqued.
2013 RT is 96 lb-ft. Based on your questions I suggest you do some studying about torque. It's much too serious of a concept to not have a good understanding of it, particularly in relation to all the nuts and bolts on the Spyder. Torque is an indirect measure of how much a bolt is stretched when the nut is tightened. It's the stretching of the bolt that holds the pieces together. Think of them as super stiff rubber bands.

Here are a couple of good explanations.

http://study.com/academy/lesson/what-is-torque-definition-equation-calculation.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque

IdahoMtnSpyder
08-19-2015, 08:14 PM
All I found was some other links regarding reducing torque for wet or oiled fittings. They suggest reducing the spec dry torque by 10-25% depending on source. They also note that torque should not be reduced if Loctite or similar is applied, but it just doesn't feel right:bowdown:

:dontknow:

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html




http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf

Here's a page with a diagram showing the components of the torque in tightening nuts and bolts. A small change in turning friction can cause a huge change in the stretching component, which can have a tremendous impact on the tightness and safety of the bolt.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tighten.htm

The chart here shows how the recommended torque varies widely based on the strength of the steel in the fastener.
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/
(http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/)
These variables show why it is important to pay attention to the manual specifications. It's easy to over torque or under torque a fastener. Put too great a torque on soft steel you'll have failure. Put insufficient torque on high strength steel fastener and you can have a failure.

IdahoMtnSpyder
08-19-2015, 08:22 PM
A bit of trivia in relation to torque. I don't remember exactly, but the bolts that hold down the head on the vessel that contains a nuclear reactor are something on the order of 5" or 6" diameter and 3' or 4' long. Those are bolts you DO NOT want to not hold! You can imagine what a challenge it would be to properly torque bolts like those. So instead they clamp onto the end of them with a hydraulic puller and stretch the bolt to it's required tension. Then they just simply spin the nuts snug and release the stretcher. Those bolts now hold very tightly! :thumbup:

You torque a nut not to make sure it stays on, but to make sure the fastener is clamping the pieces sufficiently!

copilot
08-20-2015, 05:32 AM
Bob sorry to burst your bubble but the reason I asked was because my manual says 91-101ft pounds. Just curious why you think you are one of six who think your the only ones the read the manual. Obviously you just have to show that you are not too bright. Now if you can explain in detail why a 2014 is different I will listen.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Bob Denman
08-20-2015, 07:33 AM
"Not too bright"? :shocked::hun:
You can do better than that; can't you? :D


What bike do you have? :dontknow:
What MY manual says is correct for MY bike; is 155 to 177 ft/lbs...
I just double-checked it, because there is always the chance that I misread it...

...I didn't. :thumbup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114070&stc=1