I'm gonna skin my Spyder

[Pampurrs]

We're having record high temperatures here in the Valley of the Sun, and I don't feel much like riding until later in the week when the temperature is supposed to return to a more comfortable 100 degrees. So, I'm gonna do like you guys up north do in the winter, and tool with my machine in the garage.

I've been watching videos by Finless and Shawn, and have been reading the "Body" section of my service manual. So, I'm gonna skin off the tupperware just for practice. This will give me a chance to examine the inner workings, and become more intimate with my :spyder2:. Hopefully I can get the skin back on before the cooler temps come in a few days, so I can go riding.

While I'm at it, I'm hoping to be able to fix the glove compartment cover that won't latch. Finless tells me that I should be able to fix it once I get the tupperware off.

I'm gonna run into town early in the morning (before it gets too hot) to get a 12 pack of :cheers: and a fresh box of swear words in case I need them. Whooo hoooooo :dg1:

Pam

[Rawhide kid]

Gopher it!!

I have a bunch of farkles sitting next to my spyder. Just too dang hot right now, even at 6 am, to put them on right now. Frustrating!

[ARtraveler]

Sounds like a fun party. Enjoy. :yes:

[Chupaca]

Take your time, take a break if things get tangled, drink only one :cheers: till your done. Then finish them off and enjoy a job well done.. Its not a race :thumbup:

[Bfromla]

Take pics & notes. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113788&stc=1 Look where to add farkles or a stash :hun::roflblack:.

[Bob Denman]

Hi Pam!
Will you be shooting any video of this exercise? :D
Send me your email, and I'll fax you some of my favorite left-handed metric cusswords for the party! :yes::yes:
Once you get the mirrors off; it's all just push-pins and screws... :thumbup:


Most damage to the keyhole clips comes from improper or overly physical removal of the mirrors. I have never broken a clip on two RT's, although the mirrors have been removed frequently. To remove without damage I recommend the following:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.
INSTALLATION:
First, make sure the mirror spring wires are straight and parallel. If they are bent inward they may not catch the post,
and if they diverge or bend outward, the mirror will be loose. It can help to put a very tiny bit of lube on the outer,
conical part of the post only. I'm talking about a film here, not a glob. Make sure there is none on the back side (post notch).
Engage the keyhole slot first. Then rap downward firmly (but politely) on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the bottom latch.
Now rap forward on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the front latch. You can rap a little harder than you can taking the
mirrors off, because they won't fly across the room, but don't get carried away. Problems seating the latches are usually
caused by bent spring wires.

[NovaSpyder]

I too plan to do some garage work on the bikes because it is supposed to be hot here, 32C (90F). That's probably a nice temp for Az but hot for here.
100F is the melting point of .....me:yikes: I got a growler to sip on to help as well

Good tips from PMK. Also I like keep the fasteners with the body panels, I use little snack baggies cuz I can get disorganized in a hurry. :banghead:

[Bob Denman]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113797&stc=1

Where can I get one of these??? :D :2thumbs:

[Pampurrs]

Hi Pam!
Will you be shooting any video of this exercise? :D
Send me your email, and I'll fax you some of my favorite left-handed metric cusswords for the party! :yes::yes:
Once you get the mirrors off; it's all just push-pins and screws... :thumbup:


Most damage to the keyhole clips comes from improper or overly physical removal of the mirrors. I have never broken a clip on two RT's, although the mirrors have been removed frequently. To remove without damage I recommend the following:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.
INSTALLATION:
First, make sure the mirror spring wires are straight and parallel. If they are bent inward they may not catch the post,
and if they diverge or bend outward, the mirror will be loose. It can help to put a very tiny bit of lube on the outer,
conical part of the post only. I'm talking about a film here, not a glob. Make sure there is none on the back side (post notch).
Engage the keyhole slot first. Then rap downward firmly (but politely) on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the bottom latch.
Now rap forward on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the front latch. You can rap a little harder than you can taking the
mirrors off, because they won't fly across the room, but don't get carried away. Problems seating the latches are usually
caused by bent spring wires.

Thanks for the tips Bob.

No, I won't be taping this adventure nojoke

Pam

[Pampurrs]

One tip, prior to removing body panel fasteners, use a Sharpie and write a W on the plastic tab at locations that have washers.

I did this a long time ago and it speeds up proper reassembly.

Ironically, when I watched Shawn Smoakes little Oil Change video, he spent some time talking about the machines he works on often have the fasteners in the wrong locations.

Don't forget to stuff a rag into the bottomless pit of the frame behind the seat...

PK

Thanks. When I installed my Utopia backrest I draped a bathtowel under the seat to cover all the hardware eating holes.


Pam

[kbwitt]

[/QUOTE]
ord high temperatures here in the Valley of the Sun, and I don't feel much like riding until later in the week when the temperature is supposed to return to a more comfortable 100 degrees. So, I'm gonna do like you guys up north do in the winter, and tool with my machine in the garage.

I've been watching videos by Finless and Shawn, and have been reading the "Body" section of my service manual. So, I'm gonna skin off the tupperware just for practice. This will give me a chance to examine the inner workings, and become more intimate with my :spyder2:. Hopefully I can get the skin back on before the cooler temps come in a few days, so I can go riding.

While I'm at it, I'm hoping to be able to fix the glove compartment cover that won't latch. Finless tells me that I should be able to fix it once I get the tupperware off.

I'm gonna run into town early in the morning (before it gets too hot) to get a 12 pack of :cheers: and a fresh box of swear words in case I need them. Whooo hoooooo :dg1:

I am on the road in Michigan. If I was home in Gilbert AZ. I would come over and give you a spirt bell to hide under the tuptupperware.
Have fun Kenn

[Pampurrs]

I am on the road in Michigan. If I was home in Gilbert AZ. I would come over and give you a spirt bell to hide under the tuptupperware.
Have fun Kenn



Thanks. I already have four bells on my Spyder, but you can never have enough :)

Safe travels!

Pam

[SpyderAnn01]

We use two small bins for nuts and bolts, one on each side. If they are empty when you put all the plastic on you've done s good job.

[pegasus1300]

Take pics & notes. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113788&stc=1 Look where to add farkles or a stash :hun::roflblack:.

I need one of those. Just ordered. Coo; thanks

[NM Wrench]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113797&stc=1

Where can I get one of these??? :D :2thumbs:

Hi Bob,
I have seen these on Tee Spring. They advertise on FaceBook a lot. Otherwise try googleing them

[dlby]

Well I just had a frink & I cant seem to frocus on de point 8f da matter
Eh?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I497 using Tapatalk

[wetmountainman]

Not trying to hijack this post, but I have a mirror question.

After having the mirrors off only about 3 times (by the dealer twice and me once), they seem to be a little loose, and move up and down some. Is there any way to tighten them up? I checked inside at the clips and everyone looks ok, nothing broken or missing, as far as I can tell.

[Pampurrs]

Not trying to hijack this post, but I have a mirror question.

After having the mirrors off only about 3 times (by the dealer twice and me once), they seem to be a little loose, and move up and down some. Is there any way to tighten them up? I checked inside at the clips and everyone looks ok, nothing broken or missing, as far as I can tell.

:popcorn:

[Bob Denman]

Not trying to hijack this post, but I have a mirror question.

After having the mirrors off only about 3 times (by the dealer twice and me once), they seem to be a little loose, and move up and down some. Is there any way to tighten them up? I checked inside at the clips and everyone looks ok, nothing broken or missing, as far as I can tell.

Are those little spring wire pieces (The pair that run parallel to each other) still nice and straight? If they start looking bent; just take a pair of pliers to them... :thumbup:

[Pampurrs]

Well, I got the skin off. I was hoping to find a way to fix my glove compartment lid that won't latch. Haven't fixed it yet, but I'll play around some more tomorrow.

I did get a look at the flux capacitor though. Very impressive!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113903&stc=1

[Pampurrs]

Well, I got the skin off. I was hoping to find a way to fix my glove compartment lid that won't latch. Haven't fixed it yet, but I'll play around some more tomorrow.

I did get a look at the flux capacitor though. Very impressive!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113903&stc=1

Gonna remove the glove box today and find out why it doesn't latch (hopefully)

Pam

[SpyderCruiser]

Well, I got the skin off. I was hoping to find a way to fix my glove compartment lid that won't latch. Haven't fixed it yet, but I'll play around some more tomorrow.

I did get a look at the flux capacitor though. Very impressive!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113903&stc=1

Wow, Pam.
My RT did not come with the fancy yellow accel high-performance ignition wires. Looks like BRP short changed my flux capacitor. :yikes: Or maybe that was an overpriced BRP option? :dontknow:

[Bob Denman]

That looks like an older model of the Flux Capacitors: the newer ones have attenuation circuitry that keeps harmonic vibrations from preventing the latching of certain panels... :D

[dlby]

Turn off your copper magnet latch precurser FOB

do this by latching & unlatching glovebox three times
Oh wait!
Crap u r stuck

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

[SpyderCruiser]

That looks like an older model of the Flux Capacitors: the newer ones have attenuation circuitry that keeps harmonic vibrations from preventing the latching of certain panels... :D

What the Flux Bob!:yikes: Every time I try to buy the latest and greatest, someone has to tell me there is something better! It happens with computers, my IPhone and now my :ani29: has an outdated Flux capacitor, and it is only 6 months old. Geeshh when does it end? How can I ever afford to keep up now that I am retired?

That also explains why I had such a darn time trying to get my mirrors back on after installing the Tricled turn signals. I never thought it was caused by the outdated flux capacitor. Bob, do you have the new BRP part number for the updated Flux capacitor? I noticed the photo of the flux capacitor Pam posted was a 3 cylinder flux capacitor. May I assume that before the 2014 RT models came out, BRP only used 2 cylinder flux capacitors?

[Pampurrs]

Well folks, this has been a great learning experience for me. I now know where the oil filter is and some other things I discovered while I was in there. I wasn't able to fix my glove compartment problem though, even after removing it. I'll just have to take it to the dealer for warranty work.

I did manage to get everything put back together, with only a few parts leftover. I'm fairly proud of myself.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114023&stc=1

[Pampurrs]

What the Flux Bob!:yikes: Every time I try to buy the latest and greatest, someone has to tell me there is something better! It happens with computers, my IPhone and now my :ani29: has an outdated Flux capacitor, and it is only 6 months old. Geeshh when does it end? How can I ever afford to keep up now that I am retired?

That also explains why I had such a darn time trying to get my mirrors back on after installing the Tricled turn signals. I never thought it was caused by the outdated flux capacitor. Bob, do you have the new BRP part number for the updated Flux capacitor? I noticed the photo of the flux capacitor Pam posted was a 3 cylinder flux capacitor. May I assume that before the 2014 RT models came out, BRP only used 2 cylinder flux capacitors?

:roflblack:

[SpyderCruiser]

Well folks, this has been a great learning experience for me. I now know where the oil filter is and some other things I discovered while I was in there. I wasn't able to fix my glove compartment problem though, even after removing it. I'll just have to take it to the dealer for warranty work.

I did manage to get everything put back together, with only a few parts leftover. I'm fairly proud of myself.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114023&stc=1

Congratulations! :clap: I remember the first time I had to pull off the "skin" was to install HID fog and headlights. It started with like... hmmm where do you start. I promise it will get easier each time you remove the Tupperware. Like you, wound up with extra parts. 2 tuff lock rivets. It still annoys me to this day I cannot find where they belong.

I did take a quick look at my glove box, and guess as you found out there were no adjustments. Good Luck with the dealer, sure he will get it sorted for you.