trailering a spyder

[dartex]

have found many good tips on trailering one question when on the trailer do you leave the park brake set or leave it off and just strap it down have a couple of spyder riders give different answers your 2cents worth please

[Mazo EMS2]

I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02

[MisterP]

I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02

I leave the Spyder in neutral with the brake on.

where are you going to put the fourth strap? One over each front wheel and one through the rear wheel makes three.

I have found wheel chocks pushed into the wheels don't stay there. Since the suspension is not strapped under load, the tires flex on bumps and push out the chocks. You would have to mount chocks into the trailer floor for them to stay put.

[flaggerphil]

Punctuation is your friend.

Carry on.

[Chupaca]

if it's semi auto it doesn't matter in what gear it will still roll so best leave it in neutral. If it is manual it's not a good idea to leave it in gear cause it is rough on the transmission. Same goes for the brake so basically if you tie her down right you should not need to have it in gear or have the park brake on...this is how I towed all bikes....:thumbup:

[pitzerwm]

This is how I do mine. SE6 in N parking break on.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113789&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113790&stc=1

[Tango]

Leave the tranny in neutral. No parking brake. One tie down each wheel, three total. My Spyder has never moved. Use towels in the spokes of the wheels to prevent scratching them. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

[tofriendscreek]

When I trailer the Spyder, I do it the same as the tractor or car. Parking brake on, 4 axle straps through the wheels and 4 ratchet straps (1 each on the fronts, 2 on the rear, all 4 going at diagonals to the hooks at the 4 corners of the trailer and wheel chocks screwed to the trailer floor. It's safety first: both for the Spyder and for anyone or anything which might be nearby in the event of some kind of failure.


Sent from my little piece of paradise!

[H2O]

On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.

H2O

[Bob Denman]

SE-6 here...:D
Neutral; with the parking brake on, and three straps...
Check the straps shortly after you start your trip, and then every couple of hours after that. :2thumbs:

[missouriboy]

On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.

H2OWhy? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine? :shocked:

[Deanna777]

Send a pm to Mike( Blueknight911) on how he strapped down a 2012RTS-SE5( that was mine) on a snowmobile trailer. Deanna

[NSPYTE]

I have an SE5, and in my toyhauler I have parking brake on and tie downs on each front wheel and two on the back wheel going out to the corners of the garage. I have the CAN AM tie downs, got them off ebay, still pricey... but they are set up to go thru the wheels and are padded so they dont scratch. Come as a set of four.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t218/Badhabt/Mobile%20Uploads/20150524_134206_zpsmu19k899.jpg (http://s161.photobucket.com/user/Badhabt/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150524_134206_zpsmu19k899.jpg.html)

[H2O]

Why? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine? :shocked:
As impatient as I am, I never waited that long to see if it would quit on its own. I couldn't stand the noise so I turned the key back to the on position while I was doing whatever it was I was doing at the time.

H2O

[budbetj]

After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I think I'm the MIKE you are referring to :thumbup: :2excited: , Nice job, and very nice PICS.... :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:........I can't believe someone actually believed me :banghead::banghead::banghead: .......good for you, you won't be dis-appointed.......I only use ONE on the rear wheel ...But I'm a dare Devil :lecturef_smilie:.....The only thing I would caution about is the distance of the front wheel anchors from the front tires / wheels. I don't think it's possible that the Spyder can move forward though.....and this is only as strong as the weakest LINK which is the ANCHORS .....I think your's are FINE....................Mike :bbq:

[pitzerwm]

I tie down the front wheels because someone said that they could bounce sideways and maybe be off the chocks. I'm figuring why take a risk. I don't plan on hitting anything hard enough to cause that , but then a lot a crap has happened to me that I hadn't planed for.

[Deanna777]

After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on. Mike( Blueknight911) tied down my 2012RRTS-SE5 the way you described above and my :spyder2: did not move on snowmobile trailer. Deanna

[Mazo EMS2]

I loaded up the Spyder the other day for experimental reasons. I was gonna do what Mike described, but then I came up with a different plan. My trailer is open, with angle aluminum open rail sides. I had 2 straps in place. One strap went through the rear wheel and back to anchors in the rear corners. The other strap went under the front of the bike, behind the lower A-arms, then I put it over the top of the A-arms, and outside of the lower shock mount, and forward to the aluminum rail. Sorry no pics, but both straps created a nice downward and forward and backward pull. The front strap, being on the outside of the shock mounts, creates a good downward and forward pull, but also a pull that would prevent side movement too. The back strap is simply through the wheel and down/back. I don't plan to have to trailer, but now I know how I'll do it if the need arises. The way the weather looks, we might be trailering to Spyderfest:(

[Bensonoid]

After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.

I have a similar setup.

[midnightbreeze50]

When I trailer the Spyder, I do it the same as the tractor or car. Parking brake on, 4 axle straps through the wheels and 4 ratchet straps (1 each on the fronts, 2 on the rear, all 4 going at diagonals to the hooks at the 4 corners of the trailer and wheel chocks screwed to the trailer floor. It's safety first: both for the Spyder and for anyone or anything which might be nearby in the event of some kind of failure.


Sent from my little piece of paradise!

I Concure, this is how I tie my Spyder down too!! Better safe that sorry!!!


Midnightbreeze:yes::yes::yes:

[900Dave]

I think I'm the MIKE you are referring to :thumbup: :2excited: , Nice job, and very nice PICS.... :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:........I can't believe someone actually believed me :banghead::banghead::banghead: .......good for you, you won't be dis-appointed.......I only use ONE on the rear wheel ...But I'm a dare Devil :lecturef_smilie:.....The only thing I would caution about is the distance of the front wheel anchors from the front tires / wheels. I don't think it's possible that the Spyder can move forward though.....and this is only as strong as the weakest LINK which is the ANCHORS .....I think your's are FINE....................Mike :bbq:

The tie downs in my Toyhauler are not at the correct location to put the straps over the tires. I don't want to cut new holes in the floor. The Toyhauler cost a lot more than the Spyder.

[900Dave]

I use 4 straps, brake on and I do no go through the wheels at all. The front wheels move, I tried this a couple times and the straps were loose every time I checked them. The front I hook the ratchet straps to the cross member up front (were the sway bar passes through). I pull back to the rear. The rear I pull front and I tie off to the rear bottom shock mount. Never has been an issue.

I may have to rethink this when I bring home the F3. I will see and adjust accordingly.

[Mazo EMS2]

I've gone back n forth a couple times, but today I looked at the forecast and decided to load up the Spyder on the trailer. We'll arrive on Wed afternoon sometime. I've himmed n hawed on how to tie the Syyder down. I opted to do this same thing with mine. I had to alter my anchors, but no big deal. The straps over my tires are over the top and straight down, front/back, with no forward angle on the straps. I also added a 4th strap that goes under the belly, and up over each lower A arm, then forward to the front of the trailer. I can't imagine the bike moving at all. :bowdown:

[dlby]

All look pretty good to me
But!
I would never tie down on any of the mechanical parts
A frame tie rods etc

Many 2000 mi trips just going thru the wheels with micro fibre cloths to protect finish

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[budbetj]

I think I'm the MIKE you are referring to :thumbup: :2excited: , Nice job, and very nice PICS.... :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:........I can't believe someone actually believed me :banghead::banghead::banghead: .......good for you, you won't be dis-appointed.......I only use ONE on the rear wheel ...But I'm a dare Devil :lecturef_smilie:.....The only thing I would caution about is the distance of the front wheel anchors from the front tires / wheels. I don't think it's possible that the Spyder can move forward though.....and this is only as strong as the weakest LINK which is the ANCHORS .....I think your's are FINE....................Mike :bbq:

Thanks Mike, I was limited by the length of the short strap with hook connected to the ratchet - caused me to have the angle you don't like. I would prefer to have the strap come straight down from the top of the tire - possibly could add another anchor which is straight down to run the strap through, but I thought it would be OK with the forward strap angle because the rear is secure and pulling toward rear while the front straps are pulling forward. I'll be checking the straps often the first time I haul it any distance. Appreciate your advice and comments.

[Jim&Teresa]

We use a Droptail trailer. I really like that it folds and store upright in the garage and NO ramps needed - built in. Works well for the Spyder with the low clearance. The back of the trailer hydraulically lowers and the built in rear gate folds down to extend the ramp portion. Easy to use. Our Spyder RT just fits and the nose of the Spyder fits in the V part of the front of the trailer. Not a lot of spare room, but works well. The Spyder fills the whole trailer even though this is a "two up" motorcycle trailer. A bonus for us is that our Gold Wing can be hauled on this trailer as well - however, only one bike at a time (unless you have two - 2 wheel motorcycles). There is a standard 8 inch stone guard and an optional 20" stone guard. I did add the 20" stone guard on our trailer. Also, we purchased an optional spare tire which bolts to the bottom of the trailer.

Here's some info on the model number and a few pics: Drop - Tail "Two - Up" Cruiser / Sport Bike Trailer, model number: 03-DCT2200-02

Good luck on your choice of trailers - there are a lot of good trailer out there that work!! :thumbup:

[kbwitt]

have found many good tips on trailering one question when on the trailer do you leave the park brake set or leave it off and just strap it down have a couple of spyder riders give different answers your 2cents worth please


I highly recommend factory way. Look in your Manuel under Transporting The Vehicle.
It has good pictures and its so much easier than some of the suggestions made here.
It has you putting it neutral parking brake off to pull it up onto a trailer ( in a broken mode) it never tells you in the stap down mode to put it back in gear or set brake so leave in neutral brake off when transporting.
Kennn

ps parking brake is only on back tire

[Elembytes]

SE-6 here...:D
Neutral; with the parking brake on, and three straps...
Check the straps shortly after you start your trip, and then every couple of hours after that. :2thumbs:

I agree with Bob---SE6- leave in Neutral, use 3 straps, check it after moving a little bit and check it often during your trip. The straps do come loose! This is exactly how we do it and it works great!

[AzBTO]

Good thread but not sure if it will work for me. Live in Arizona, looking to get a spyder in california (~ 500 miles away) and was thinking of getting a uhaul open trailer to bring her home. Don't think uhaul would appreciate me modifying their trailer and don't have a spyder manual so no idea what it says about transporting. Any thoughts on securing to a uhaul open bed trailer? I'm guessing I'll need a 6 x 12 to be safe.

[CopperSpyder]

yes 6 x 10 or longer. the issue will be getting ramps long enough to get the spyder on and off. The ramp in the middle can be a little shorter. The Spyder sits low so you will need long ramps for the out side (front wheels). The Rt is about 64 inches wide and 9 foot long. Few ways to strap it down. best is over the top of the wheels but for you; you may have to use the through the wheels with ratchet straps place a soft rag or towel on the strap between the strap and rims so you don't scratch them. Tie the all 3 wheels down using 3 straps.

[timeless]

Leave the tranny in neutral. No parking brake. One tie down each wheel, three total. My Spyder has never moved. Use towels in the spokes of the wheels to prevent scratching them. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

Me too, I do exactly the same and in several thousand miles of trailering I have never had the RT move even through several trailer and motor home tire failures.

[Gwolf]

My wheel chocks have a slot on the back side. One in front of the tire and one in rear of the tire, then run a strap through the slots and lock it in place. Also put a strap on the rear wheel, but not through the wheel. It goes through the frame in front of the wheel.

Only time it has ever been on a trailer is the day I picked it up at the dealership.

[NewYorkSpyder]

This is how I tow my RT and also my Ryker. Straps thru front wheels 179201179202 then attached to front of trailer with emergency brake on no rear strap used.

[strykerAKAmack]

Black+Gray stuff works great keeping stuff from moving round also their hangers are great also

https://www.blackandgray.com/products/total-kits/tck3-total-chock-kit-sp.html
with their
https://www.blackandgray.com/products/total-kits/tdk2-total-tie-down-kit.html

[CopperSpyder]

This is how I tow my RT and also my Ryker. Straps thru front wheels 179201179202 then attached to front of trailer with emergency brake on no rear strap used.

You should rethink the rear strap. If you ever get in an accident or have to leave the road because of an accident in front of you that Spyder may not stay with you.

[Peter Aawen]

You should rethink the rear strap. If you ever get in an accident or have to leave the road because of an accident in front of you that Spyder may not stay with you.

:agree: With it secured like that up front & no rear strap (of any sort) there's nothing at all holding your Spyder DOWN & on the tray besides its own weight, and there's nothing at all to stop it bouncing forwards & over that beam of wood in front of the front tires in the event of an impact &/or sudden/hard stop !! :gaah:

IF you're lucky, that sudden/hard stop or knock might only bounce the tires up & over the beam, damaging the front end of the Spyder & maybe the suspension too; but if the stop is sudden/hard enough, there's the potential for the Spyder to bounce forwards up & over the beam & flipping, ending up inverted half in the back of your truck, albeit with the front tires still securely tied to the front of the trailer! :shocked: Not happy Jan! :opps:

If you haven't secured the front tires DOWN behind that beam in addition to the straps holding it forwards across the top of the beam that we can see, then your Spyder really isn't too much better off than just leaving it sitting on the flat trailer deck with a couple of chocks in front of the front tires!! :lecturef_smilie: At least with a strap holding/pulling the rear wheel back towards the back of the trailer, it'd lessen the risk of your Spyder bouncing forwards over the beam in the event of an impact or sudden/hard stop; but ideally, you really should secure at least one end DOWN & onto the trailer bed! ;)

Me, with straps like that up front, I'd be fixing the rear tire down with something like an E-track ratchet strap over the tire circumferentially. Or better yet, I'd strap the front tires down using the same style of E-track ratchets, & secure the rear tire either the same way or with a strap wrapped figure 8 style around the rim & tire so that it'll stop the rear of your Spyder moving from side to side as well as holding it back & down! :thumbup:

Over to you! :2thumbs:

[Terraplane8Bob]

I guess that trailers are the best way to go, but has anyone here backed their Spyder into the bed of of a pickup truck ? My Ford Super Duty has a tailgate opening that is one inch wider than the width of the bike, so if I back it into the 8' long bed, I would avoid the narrowest width at the wheel wells and the front wheels of the Spyder would set onto the very last few inches of the bed --- or even onto the tailgate. I have a "Gator-Ramp" that telescopes off the tailgate that provides a solid surface from side-to-side so there wouldn't be the necessity of having three normal-type ramps to accommodate the rear wheel. Has anyone been adventurous enough to try something like this ?
As you may have guessed --- I'm terrible at backing up a trailer !

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I guess that trailers are the best way to go, but has anyone here backed their Spyder into the bed of of a pickup truck ? My Ford Super Duty has a tailgate opening that is one inch wider than the width of the bike, so if I back it into the 8' long bed, I would avoid the narrowest width at the wheel wells and the front wheels of the Spyder would set onto the very last few inches of the bed --- or even onto the tailgate. I have a "Gator-Ramp" that telescopes off the tailgate that provides a solid surface from side-to-side so there wouldn't be the necessity of having three normal-type ramps to accommodate the rear wheel. Has anyone been adventurous enough to try something like this ?
As you may have guessed --- I'm terrible at backing up a trailer !

I have put my 2014 RT ( see my album ) onto/into my 03 Toyt. pk-up that I made a flatbed for .... however I can drive it up and in going forward ... yes the ramps are steep ( 10' ramps & 28" rise ) ... I put 10ft. of 26ga. galvanized sheet metal that I put hundreds of dimples thru.... excellent traction even in the rain .... your problem is going to physics .... the Spyder hasn't got the greatest traction ( ie one powered wheel ) and you arn't making it better because you are going backwards. I'm known to try just about anything, but I wouldn't try that ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

[Steve W.]

As you may have guessed --- I'm terrible at backing up a trailer !
I'll just make one comment here. If you are terrible at backing up a trailer, backing the Spyder up a ramp into a VERY tight area isn't going to be any easier. In order to get the rear tire into THAT particular spot, the front wheels are going to be going from side to side, quite a bit more than that one measly inch of room that you have. Remember, that's only HALF an inch on each side. The sides of the tailgate opening will not be gentle on the wheels, tires and fenders if you miss.

.

[ARtraveler]

All good information. Even with the revival of the thread from 8/2016. I thought some of the early posters looked familiar. :yes:

[Terraplane8Bob]

Thanks for all of the thoughts about loading a Spyder into a pick-up truck ! I'm going to push it one step further ---- What if the Spyder is loaded onto the truck bed using a winch ? It might be a lot easier making incremental adjustments as you go using that method. Come to think about it --- where would you have to attach the winch cable ? The "Gator Ramp" I mentioned can be deployed onto an embankment or standard loading dock so the the ramp becomes not a ramp, but is parallel to the ground. Perhaps in that situation, the rear wheel might have normal traction ? The ramp is coated with a "gritty" compound of some sort and has always had good grip for all of the times I ran my BMW K-75 in and out of the bed. Sound like a possibility to anyone ? I still have trailer dyslexia ! Bob

[Peter Aawen]

I dunno that I'd be all that happy driving too far with my Spyder on the trailer/in the bed of a pick-up so that it's FACING BACKWARDS as you drive along!! :gaah:

Maybe it wouldn't be such a biggie if the trailer &/or pick-up bed was protected by a full height fairing or better yet, fully enclosed; maybe it might not be too bad for some Spyder models or possibly a windscreen-less Ryker; but even just the thought of carrying/transporting my RT while it's facing backwards so that it's exposed to all the airflow & buffeting of a vehicle travelling at pretty much any speed just makes me cringe!! :shocked: And that still applies Even if the machine was winched into place, possibly with the winch cable secured to the trailer hitch?! :lecturef_smilie:

Have you seen how those windshields are held on?? Or the tupperware side-panels?? Even on mine, with its 'much more positively secured D-Zus fasteners' holding the side panels on, the whole thing is designed to withstand the airflow of its motion passing from the front of Spyder over everything as it heads towards the rear & eventually flows off the back - flip that around so that the airflow & any debris, rain, bugs, or other crud it's carrying is travelling from the rear of the Spyder over & around the blunt end, creating a heap of 'backward' high velocity turbulence & lifting forces in places and ways the designers probably never even dreamt of, and I can see the potential for a few lost panels; a broken windshield, maybe tearing off a dash cover as it goes past; with water &/or other crap being blasted into the instruments & cluster etc, getting injected in under the glass & into the delicate working bits; the potential for lifting &/or ripping off things like the mirrors, trunk/frunk lids, or the glove box lid; and maybe getting even more crushed & stinking bugs stuck deep into some difficult to remove places than it currently scores!! :banghead:

So Bob, if it was me facing a choice of loading my Spyder backwards onto anything vs me spending some time practicing reversing with a trailer in tow until I'm comfortable with reversing that trailer at speed uphill thru an icy slalom course while driving a truck wearing racing slicks, I'd already be out there practicing reversing!! nojoke Or I'd just plan on NEVER EVER trailering or carrying my Spyder anywhere, and ALWAYS ryding it FORWARDS wherever it needs to go, with maybe just a little low speed reversing under its own steam thrown into the mix if necessary! :thumbup:

But that's just me.... you might choose to do things differently, cos YMMV! :ohyea: :cheers:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for all of the thoughts about loading a Spyder into a pick-up truck ! I'm going to push it one step further ---- What if the Spyder is loaded onto the truck bed using a winch ? It might be a lot easier making incremental adjustments as you go using that method. Come to think about it --- where would you have to attach the winch cable ? The "Gator Ramp" I mentioned can be deployed onto an embankment or standard loading dock so the the ramp becomes not a ramp, but is parallel to the ground. Perhaps in that situation, the rear wheel might have normal traction ? The ramp is coated with a "gritty" compound of some sort and has always had good grip for all of the times I ran my BMW K-75 in and out of the bed. Sound like a possibility to anyone ? I still have trailer dyslexia ! Bob

What are you going to use on the rear of the Spyder to attach your cable to ????? .... I wouldn't use a Tow Hitch because of the angle that cable is going to be at ..... plus BRP says 400lbs MAX for their hitch ( tow capability ) .. and you MUST remove the windshield as others have said ....... and will keep my " cheese grater " traction device :roflblack:.... Mike :ohyea:

[Terraplane8Bob]

Actually, I didn't mention the fact that my Ford Super Duty has a fiberglass bed cover that rises hydraulically straight up six feet and parallel to the bed, so, as I did mention before, I could ride my old BMW K-75 up the Gator Ramp and straight up to the cab of the truck. I then strapped it down, removed the windshield [4 screws] and lowered the cover down onto the bike after placing padding on the saddle and fairing. I've driven a lot of miles at 70+MPH with no problems whatsoever, so I was assuming I could duplicate that general setup for a Spyder. The bed cover is a "Top-Up Camper" I bought years ago from a company in Michigan. With canvas sides and bunks that cantilevered off the sides of the bed, it converted a pickup truck into a camper while leaving the entire bed of the truck as open space. Pretty slick ! Thanks for the advice about the 400 pound limit on the BRP trailer hitch ! That was where my mind was wandering to as a logical attachment point. I guess a custom hitch point would be required to achieve my aim. I really appreciate the different points of view and suggestions --- AND the emojis !! Cheers !! Bob