Building a trailer?

[SailnDive]

I'm planning to build a trailer for my RTs. My thoughts are welded Al frame and axle with steel stub axles w/as light a spring set and hubs as I can get. 10" wheels and tires. I'll mount a high quality roof top carrier. I should be able to keep the weight just over 120 lbs...maybe less. Should make a pretty good looking rig. Now, how to find a suitable carrier. The 18 cubic foot SportRack SR7095 @ $199 looks pretty good, but I have no idea of how robust it's built without seeing one. I have most of the frame and trailer parts on hand
already and while I did pay for them at some point, (years ago) they are just setting on the shelf right now. Might as well put them to good use.
Think I'll build the hitch also. Wish I had a BRP one to look at...hate to re-invent the wheel. ;)
Quinton

[finless]

Loots of good info out there on doing it.

Here is one source.

http://pbmotorcycletrailer.com/how-to-build-a-homemade-pull-behind-motorcycle-cargo-trailer-that-does-not-look-homemade/

Bob

[MouthPiece]

You might want to talk to Tom a/k/a 2ndChildhood. He built one for his RT and it was super nice. If I know Tom, he would/will be more than happy to share his knowledge and experience.

Chris

[Deanna777]

I'm planning to build a trailer for my RTs. My thoughts are welded Al frame and axle with steel stub axles w/as light a spring set and hubs as I can get. 10" wheels and tires. I'll mount a high quality roof top carrier. I should be able to keep the weight just over 120 lbs...maybe less. Should make a pretty good looking rig. Now, how to find a suitable carrier. The 18 cubic foot SportRack SR7095 @ $199 looks pretty good, but I have no idea of how robust it's built without seeing one. I have most of the frame and trailer parts on hand
already and while I did pay for them at some point, (years ago) they are just setting on the shelf right now. Might as well put them to good use.
Think I'll build the hitch also. Wish I had a BRP one to look at...hate to re-invent the wheel. ;)
QuintonSend a pm to Mike( Blueknight911) for some suggestions, he built one. Deanna

[cuznjohn]

only thing i would suggest is going with larger wheels

[Bob Denman]

Remember... :shocked:
:lecturef_smilie: We're gonna need to see pictures of the glorious results!! :D :2thumbs:

[4 MARIE]

Sounds like a Super D.I.Y. project ! and, with BRP trailer prices being what they are, why not !
Post on the project as you go.

[Ex Winger]

??? Yesterday you were selling your Spyder because of the computers.Didn,t like the way it cornered.Now are you going to keep it?Not trying to be a smart ass here.Hope your getting more use to it.
Bill
Good luck on the trailer and show the pics

[Bob Denman]

He still isn't happy with the computers: check Dee's thread about her DESS problems...

[SPYD3R]

using a surplus 16 ft. boat trailer, i converted it into a SPYD3R trailer...
i also use it for my JOHN DEERE and a couple pallet loads of red bricks and other DYI projects at home...
if you decide to build a similar unit, remember that when towing an RT, to remove the windshield... i never had an issue with the RS because the windshield was on a few inches toll...
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113655&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113656&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113657&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113658&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113659&stc=1
dp

[DrewNJ]

If you can weld aluminum you should be able to make a VERY nice light weight trailer that would pull very nicely behind the spyder. If I were a trailer pulling kind of rider aluminum would be my choice. A triton aluminum jetski trailer would make for a very nice starting platform.

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[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Me and a few others here have used the Sears X-Cargo roof top carrier....holds 18.5 cu ft. and weighs about 10 lbs......I see them at garage sales all the time ...I even salvaged one that was being thrown out.............I had mine up to about 85 MPH and no problems...As someone else mentioned here already ...forget the 10 inch wheels you arn;t saving much weight by going to 12 inch....it's the hubs that are heavy....get 4 bolt they are slightly smaller..........Also get a " C " or better rated tire ...it's worth it.....also use all LED's ......they won't upset the " Nanny ".........good luck, I luv a DIY'er.............Mike :thumbup:

[wiredgeorge]

Not sure I would bother welding up a frame...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543

[DrewNJ]

I'd run the smallest diameter wheels I could mount up. Keep it as low as possible without sacrificing width. Load/weight when choosing wheels is a non-issue. We're talking about what? 500lbs total when loaded including the trailer??

Doing an aluminum frame and you could likely have the entire trailer rig at well under 150lbs unloaded.

[SailnDive]

I've been searching the web for car top carriers and they all seem really light weight. I'd like to find one a little more robust that also looks good. As long as I use good tires, I can't think that the size would matter. i.e. Smaller = better. I have had bad luck with regular trailer tires and chose 10" because I think it is the smallest car tire available. The lightest spring that I keep on hand is a 3 leaf 1500lb, so I'll see if I can buy a light weight single leaf or maybe just disassemble the 3 leafs. That would still be pretty stiff. Welding Al. (or any other metal for that matter) is no problem with my equipment. Retired welding instructors always have a shop full of welding gear. ;)
Getting the raw materials is a 70 mile round trip tho' Just a part of living in the beautiful hills of West Virginia. It was easier when I lived close to 10 refineries in south Texas. There was not a mechanical part or material that you could not find in Texas City, Texas. Not so in Weston, WV.
I hate to try and build a carrier, lots of work and not very pretty. Suggestions? :p

[tip]

I would go with larger wheels.
Small wheel/tire = more revolutions = more heat = more potential bearing problems.

[billybovine]

I was going to build a trailer but changed my mind. The axles I was looking at were 425 lbs half axles, adjustable height. That way I could make the trailer low to the ground no matter the size of the wheels.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-1018-425-lbs-adjustable-half-torsion-axles.aspx

[SailnDive]

I was going to build a trailer but changed my mind. The axles I was looking at were 425 lbs half axles, adjustable height. That way I could make the trailer low to the ground no matter the size of the wheels.

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-1018-425-lbs-adjustable-half-torsion-axles.aspx

This is a good way to do it...but very expensive.

[billybovine]

This is a good way to do it...but very expensive.

A complete conventional leaf spring axle. I don't think you could find for less than $200.

[DrewNJ]

Torsion axles are the way to go for a nice smooth ride. Overall it's a balance between bulding a nice durable trailer but not having it weigh as much as tank.
Good Luck!

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[JCGammack]

Here is my trailer project. Used a Harbor Freight Tool trailer kit. I used the 1000# rated kit because it has 12" wheels. I had already had the car top carrier and had adapted the box to a Thule roof rack and used it on many cars and vans over the years. So not having deep pockets I have now adapted this setup to the trailer. I used 1 1/2" angle and 3/4" angle to create the profile of a rain gutter for the roof rack feet to attach. Small blocks of 3/4" square stock are to support the 3/4" angle. Found a company to Power Coat the rails for around $50.00 also they did the frame for the cooler rack for $25.00.

It has worked out that the gap between the trailer bed and the car top box is a great place to put tent and folding chairs.

The trailer is rated for much heaver loads that I would use for motorcycle towing. To soften the trailer I removed some of the leafs from the springs. This seems to be working out fine.

Here are some pictures of my finished trailer.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113732&stc=1http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113733&stc=1

[SailnDive]

A complete conventional leaf spring axle. I don't think you could find for less than $200.

Actually $78 plus shipping for spindles, hubs and springs. I'll use a 1 1/2" aluminum sch 40 pipe for the axle with the stub axles machined to fit and bolted in. Also drill out the big end of the stub axle to 1/4" wall to remove excess weight. I already have all of these parts on hand...so it makes the decision easy. I've build several sand sailor using this method and these are parts left over from that project.

[SailnDive]

Hey JC, thanks for your post. That looks like a pretty sturdy carrier and about what I'm looking for. I have not seen that one on my internet search so far. Amazon has several listed but the one I liked got really bad reviews.

[Bfromla]

Great DIY :thumbup: do it right become a vendor:ohyea:. I had looked into as well & found newer torsion axel. Found here http://www.possibilitieswithdisabilities.com. Might be handy for keeping small & light. (No leaf springs!)

[SailnDive]

Great DIY :thumbup: do it right become a vendor:ohyea:. I had looked into as well & found newer torsion axel. Found here http://www.possibilitieswithdisabilities.com. Might be handy for keeping small & light. (No leaf springs!)

The box they use would work great for me. But I can not find just the box for sale and their completed trailer is $1200. That's why I want to build my own.

[JCGammack]

Hey JC, thanks for your post. That looks like a pretty sturdy carrier and about what I'm looking for. I have not seen that one on my internet search so far. Amazon has several listed but the one I liked got really bad reviews.

The carrier box is a X-Cargo from Sears. I have had it for a number of years so I don't know how it compares to what is in the store today. I adapted the Sears box to the Thule roof rack with hardware I got from a Thule carrier box that was damaged when a guy tried to drive into his garage with it on top of his van. If you are not in a hurry, watch for yard/garage sales or craigslist carrier do show up quite often.

I agree that torsion type springs may be smoother but I have not experienced a harsh or bouncy trailer with mine. Being that they are slipper springs the only thing is they rattle a bit.

Not counting my time I have about $300 invested in the project. That is not counting the carrier that I already had.

[Bfromla]

http://youtu.be/QzVVqXxbGSA

[SailnDive]

I have an old carrier box that I may use until I can find one that looks a little better. I could design and lay one up using fiberglass...but that is way more work than i want to do. We'd like to take some long trips before the snow flies and a trailer is really needed for that. So even a trailer with a couple Action Packers strapped on would do until I can come up with a better box.

[SailnDive]

Not sure I would bother welding up a frame...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543

Not a bad choice, but mine will be substantially lighter and I already have most of the materials on hand.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Here are some comments based on my experience of building and towing trailer. To see what my trailer is go here. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?72427-My-versatile-trailer!

It's noted in the article linked above somewhere but be sure to aim for about a 60/40 split on the load ahead and behind the wheel centers. That gives about the best stability for towing.

In spite of comments and advertising to the contrary torsion axles will not give a vibration or bump free ride. Because of that the tongue takes quite a beating right at the front of the frame. I made the mistake of using too light a tube for the tongue, 2" x 2" x .060 steel. After about three seasons of pulling it around the country the tongue cracked almost completely in two. Fortunately I had inserted a heavier 1 3/4" sq x .090 tube inside after I saw the tongue bending downward so that prevented a complete collapse. But I pulled it up to 400 or 500 miles home at the end of my 4700 mile trip to Spyderfest in May with only about 0.6" of steel holding the tongue together. Here's pics of the break. There's no question my guardian angels were watching over me. The inner tube wasn't anchored to the outer tube at the back end of it, so had it broken the tongue would have come apart and who knows what kind of disaster would have resulted. So make your tongue stout enough to take the constant beating it is subjected to a the front of the frame.

Top.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113933&stc=1

Right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113930&stc=1

Left side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113932&stc=1

Bottom.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113931&stc=1


Make the tongue as long as you can and still have the numbers work out. The longer the tongue the easier it is to back up the trailer and the lighter the load on the hitch. The Spyder specs are about 40# on the hitch and 400# total towing weight max. The general guidance is to have about 10% of the total towed weight on the hitch.

[SailnDive]

Thanks for the Post Wes. This has given me real food for thought. I had considered carrying a tent but had not considered being able to set it up on the trailer. It would force the trailer to be wide tho' ? Building a trailer with sides and carrying action packers is sounding better all the time. It also looks pretty good .
I'm surprised at the frame cracks that developed on your trailer. Those cracks had to start at a high stress area created at the weld. Bad weld design or brittle base metal, or both is my guess. Most of our steel supply is coming from China now so who knows about the quality.
I've designed and built MANY trailers and never had one fail that I know of. Sometimes my students would make less that perfect welds but we always inspected and repaired any that we found suspect. I normally locate the axles one inch (or more) behind center for every foot of trailer length. Loading the trailer slightly heavy to the front will also reduce sway. Avoiding a high polar moment of inertia is the key to straight tracking.

[PMK]

Been following this topic.

Understand the desire to reduce weight.

In regards to building the rear axle, lightening the stubs and using a tube for the axle, are you planning to use leaf springs or trailing arms or no suspension to keep it light?

I'm not jumping in yet to build us a trailer. Want all the ideas from the wife about her planned uses first.

PK

[PMK]

I had some ideas to also build a lightweight trailer.

Was considering possibly doing a Spyder specific hitch and trailer tongue setup where the ball would be on the drive side of the swingarm near the axle and the trailer tongue would be offset to the left and arced to allow turning.

PK

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I had some ideas to also build a lightweight trailer.

Was considering possibly doing a Spyder specific hitch and trailer tongue setup where the ball would be on the drive side of the swingarm near the axle and the trailer tongue would be offset to the left and arced to allow turning.

PK.............Paul , I've successfully built three............and I can't think of WHY you would want to do it this way........What would be the advantage ????...........................I don't use a conventional Ball and Coupler, I have a Stiff Hitch similar to what Bushtec has and I love the lack of banging..........Mike :thumbup:

[PMK]

.............Paul , I've successfully built three............and I can't think of WHY you would want to do it this way........What would be the advantage ????...........................I don't use a conventional Ball and Coupler, I have a Stiff Hitch similar to what Bushtec has and I love the lack of banging..........Mike :thumbup:

Main reason is it would place the hitch under the left bag, making a cleaner look when not coupled to the trailer.

PK

[bscrive]

It's not really worth building a trailer unless you want something unusual. If you want a basic trailer, Harbor freight has one that fits the bill perfectly, and it is on sale right now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

[SailnDive]

It's not really worth building a trailer unless you want something unusual. If you want a basic trailer, Harbor freight has one that fits the bill perfectly, and it is on sale right now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

Harbor Freight "stuff" tends to be built very light weight. It may be OK but I know the one that I build will be OK. I do like the looks of the Carrier but I don't see that I can buy just the carrier. I'm tending toward a pretty wood sided box and weather proof action packers.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Harbor Freight "stuff" tends to be built very light weight. It may be OK but I know the one that I build will be OK. I do like the looks of the Carrier but I don't see that I can buy just the carrier. I'm tending toward a pretty wood sided box and weather proof action packers.

You were told about the carrier........................you need to read more ...........................jmho................... Mike :thumbup: