Backing Up A Ramp

[muleman1]

So we're considering the purchase of a class A toy hauler to do some traveling. On the pictured model, it would improve access from the coach if the Spyder was backed into the garage. Any mechanical issues with backing up that incline?

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: It almost looks as if you might need a couple of "short ramps", to lessen the approach angle a little bit.
(You don't want to drag the nose during loading or unloading...)
That ramp looks textured :clap:. If the rear tire can grip it; it can climb it! :thumbup:

[Roy]

So we're considering the purchase of a class A toy hauler to do some traveling. On the pictured model, it would improve access from the coach if the Spyder was backed into the garage. Any mechanical issues with backing up that incline?

Muleman1,
I have considered a toy hauler similar to the one in the picture. My concerns were will it actually fit. The measurements were close. If the ramp gets wet can I get enough traction to load the Spyder. I have a hitch on my Spyder and I was concerned about the length. If I was to purchase one I would ask them to allow me to try and load my Spyder first to make sure that it will fit properly. please post your results as you move forward with this. Thank you, Roy

[Cruzr Joe]

The incline is not a problem, just be sure that nothing is dragging and you have good traction.


Cruzr Joe

[Chupaca]

as long as the nose and toes clear your good to go. Your reverse is as strong as your first. Its not you starter motor trying to move you....it does have a rev limiter so you can't race up the ramp...:roflblack:

[retread]

Going over the joint at the top of the ramp might be a problem, I'd do lots of measuring before I bought.

john

[DrewNJ]

IMHO that is to steep of an angle. Your going to drag the nose at the bottom and the frame at the top. Traction will likely be an issue too

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[Mazo EMS2]

Gonna bottom out when you go over the hinge....might need a longer ramp.

[Xyzzy]

Maybe put a winch inside the trailer?

:dontknow:

[copilot]

Put two two by eight boards on the bottom of the ramp about five foot long . Drive it up back it up or pull it up.

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[MisterP]

1) it's unlikely a dealer would let anyone test ride any motorcycle on a toyhauler ramp. Even if it does no damage it will leave marks. I know, I owned one.

2) for the ramp pictured, they have very cleverly added a radius at the top to lessen the angle at the ramp hinge, so it's unlikely it will drag there. A ramp extender added to the bottom of the ramp that folds over when the ramp door is closed should take care of the bottom angle.

3) your biggest problem will be when the ramp is wet. A removable electric winch and an attachment point at the rear of your Spyder would solve that occasional issue.

[900Dave]

I have a 5th wheel toyhauler and I also back it in. The ramp angle looks toooo steep on the pic you provided. I drive the rear wheels of my truck up on ramps which takes some of the pitch out of the ramp. You will have problems backing up wet or dry at that angle. Traction is not near as good backing up a hill(ramp). In the case of a class A you could drive the front wheels of the motor home up a ramp. This would take some of the pitch out of the ramp.
I could drive in forward on my 5th wheel but then the rear tire would sit on the dove tail. Backing in all 3 wheels sit on the flat floor. My garage is 10 feet long and I need all of it! When the Spyder is strapped down I have about 6 inches front and back.

[muleman1]

...for your responses. Sounds like I'd be good to go mechanically.

The posted concerns about slippery ramp are very real but the ramp is textured and being a fair weather rider, if it's raining "Trypod" won't be out of the garage anyway.

Roy - you are probably correct about being too long to fit with your hitch. But I have measured the interior of the garage with the door closed, and it should be O.K. for me.

For those with concerns about clearing the hinge, you can't really see in the pic, but the manufacturer has built a hump in the ramp to alleviate that problem. That's another reason that I wanted to measure the interior with the door closed because the hump intrudes into that space.

As far as the nose goes, I could also lessen the angle of attack by raising the rear leveling jacks and extending the fronts.

So all that's left now is to pick the correct lottery numbers! :D

Thanks Again!

[jaherbst]

Going over the joint at the top of the ramp might be a problem, I'd do lots of measuring before I bought.

john

My point exactly. If you have leveling jacks you could raise the front end as much as possible or find a good dip to put the back wheels in and decrease the angle of entry. You most likely will hit bottom with that rig. Another way is to put 4-6" wood blocks under the entry edge of the loading ramp and then use a 4x8 sheet of CDX for a ramp up entry. This will reduce the angle.

I have a Toy Hauler and disconnect the hitch to raise the electric hitch jack as far up as it will go. I also use 2x4 blocks and a half sheet of 5/8 CDX plywood for entry on to the loading door.

Jack

[Peter Aawen]

There's already what looks like a 'fold out ramp extender' on the ground entry end of the ramp/door, make that a couple of feet longer & bolt a couple of 'feet' to the grounding edge of the door itself - so when you lower the door/ramp the leading edge sits on them first, leaving that hinge bit where the extender folds out at least 6 or 8 inches higher above the ground than it is now. By doing that you'll minimise the climb over the lip onto the ramp itself AND the 'ramp over' into the back of the RV - you get a longer but gentler angled ramp to reverse up without any ramp over or nose crunching issues, and when it all folds up & closes, the ramp extender will be inside flush against the door, and the 'feet' will be sticking out from the end of the closed door/ramp waaaay up above any likelihood of them being an issue to tail-gathers!!

Work out the necessary extn length & feet height, and Bob's your Uncle!! :thumbup: problem solved without resorting to levelling jacks or parking the rear wheel in a hole; it'll give you a ramp slope that's gentle enough for the Spyder to reverse up into the RV on, wet or dry!! But you will need to park somewhere with enough space behind you to lower the door/ramp & flip the extender out. ;)

[Arachnida]

I've tryed loading my RT in my 26ft toy hauler backwords. It does not work at that steep of an incline. All the weight of the spyder is transfered to the front . You will not get enough traction. I have to load mine by driving in front words. My toy hauler is a pull trailer. With a class A you will find much steeper incline. Good luck with your adventure.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I also trailer and have solved the traction issue this way......I took a 6 inch wide X 10 ft. long piece of 26 ga .galv. sheet metal and a large nail and Hammer. I used the nail to make semi-holes in the metal ( looks like a cheese grater when done ). Yes it took a while but after it was done the rear tire won't slip in the rain.................probably wouldn't slip even if you poured oil on it...........Oh yea you must attach the metal to the ramp................I can drive my Spyder up my ramp at 1 MPH ...Stop and then start again if I want.....Tire hasn't slipped yet...Mike :thumbup:

[jaherbst]

Put the wife on the back when backing up the ramp! More traction.:joke: (don't tell her I said that)

Jack

[ArkTerry]

Muleman,

I will let you know for sure in about 2 weeks. (I know you and I have communicated about this in the motorhome forum). I am driving down to Fort Worth area to take delivery on that exact model this Friday. I am 99% sure it will fit and work. I went ahead and pulled the trigger because even if it does not, I still liked the unit better than any others I found with or without garages.

[NautiBrit]

I have a 26' toy hauler and have found that the optimal height of the garage floor is around 20", and the rear suspension should be fully inflated to give the greatest clearance. As others have stated, backing in is more a function of tire grip than power.

[Bob Denman]

..So all that's left now is to pick the correct lottery numbers! :D

Pick out a set of those numbers for me too! :thumbup:

[LJspydee]

We have a 35' toyhauler with a steep ramp door, too steep for the Spyder nose to clear the ground when backing in. I use a set of ramps on the front tires to raise the front tires level with the rear tire until there is clearance for the nose. The steepness of the ramp also limits the traction of the rear tire, so I've added a winch to help with the loading. I back it in at an angle to allow room for our Minitrailer to be stood on end in the corner of the garage. Gotta have all the toys!

[PrairieSpyder]

There have been several comments about the steepness of the ramp. I'd try to find a way to lessen that. If possible, find a place to load/unload where the ground behind the hauler is higher than ground where the tires are.

[pontow]

So we're considering the purchase of a class A toy hauler to do some traveling. On the pictured model, it would improve access from the coach if the Spyder was backed into the garage. Any mechanical issues with backing up that incline?

Muleman1 - Don't know if you have already "done the deal" but I wanted to play with this a bit just to see what kind of numbers I would get. This is all based on the following assumptions:

Wheelbase of 67.5 inches (per BRP website)
Ground clearance of 4.5" (per BRP website)
Based on zero "hump" to assist
Based on trailer being level and approach surface being level
Absolute numbers shown - Ramp must be as long as if not longer than shown
Only deals with the "high center" effect - does NOT account for nose contact of the front beak

Use the table that I show. Measure the height of the toy hauler / trailer to the bed (at level). In order to not bottom out at 4.5" of ground clearance, the ramp must be as long as or longer than what the table shows. No guarantees but it might give you something to start with. Again, I just sort of wanted to play with this.

[NSPYTE]

Might be a bit of overkill...but in order to clear the nose on entry and clear the bottom at the transition into the trailer we came up with these. We need to add some sort of traction material on the center board. This past weekend ran into a bit of rain and a wet tire combined with a wet board..spun all the way up the ramp. Going in forward is alot easier (to me) than trying to back in.


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