Electric Frunk Actuator

[pitzerwm]

I have one of these on my 14, and it doesn't work. While I had the frunk off the other day, I checked a few things, but couldn't find which fuse controls this. Anyone know this? The previous owner said that it worked occasionally, sine my key works fine, not a big priority.

[pitzerwm]

Was just discussing this system yesterday with Finless Bob.

My research of the wiring diagram indicated Left Fuse Box F7.

PK

I assume Left is from drivers view? Fuse 7 is ok. Maybe its the switch.

[Larry rt]

Had mine replaced under warranty. My dealer said it was not covered, told him the BRP rep told me when I was at Spyderfest to have dealer install under warranty. He installed a new one,without asking any more questions. The rep told me there is a spring inside that gets bent and it will stop working.

[Doc - Riverside]

I assume Left is from drivers view? Fuse 7 is ok. Maybe its the switch.

As the cluster powers up F7 has to be good and you said you checked the fuse. In order for the actuator to work the micro-switch (located just to the left of the actuator) has to be depressed by the trunk lid. The micro-switch being depressed applies a ground to one side of the actuator (blue wire) and by pressing on the trunk release switch you apply 12 vdc to the other side of the actuator (red wire) which energizes it to pop the trunk lid. When the trunk lid is open the LED light in the trunk should be on as the micro-switch being un-depressed supplies a ground to the LED thus lighting it.

You can do electrical checks as follows:
1. Disconnect this two pin actuator connector.
2. On the female connector locate the contact that has the Gray/Brown wire. Key must be off to check continuity to ground using a meter. Depress the lever and you should see zero ohms. Releasing the lever it should go to infinity.
3. Set the meter up to read DC voltage. Black lead to chassis ground and red lead to the Green/violet wire on the two pin female connector. Turn the key on and depress the trunk release switch. You should read 12 vdc.

The above test are good then the problem could be the micro-switch needs to be adjusted so that is fully depressed when the lid is closed or the panel switch is bad.

Any question shoot me a PM.

Doc

[Dragonfly]

Had my 14K check done a few weeks ago and when I got her back home mine did not work either on my 13 RT. Found a plug that the dealer forgot to plug back in, he had to take the frunk loose to bring the wire up past the lip so it could be reconnected.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=113158&stc=1

[Bob Denman]

Finless Bob has a video on a simple troubleshoot of a common problem. The switch arm gets bent.

See if the switch arm is misaligned. Close the latch, hold the microswitch at the frunk, hit the button and see if it works.

Search for Bobs video. He shows and explains it good.

PK
:agree: That little switch arm is pretty easy to "tweak"... It's easy to check it's condition, and may just be the source of the problem.

(I always like to work from the simplest solution; back toward the deeper of the pool. :shocked:)

[pitzerwm]

I had the frunk off so I could see that nothing is bent. It is plugged in, I didn't check to see if I got voltage, but the actuator looked brand new and it doesn't move or hum or anything. The fuse is good, so I'm thinking switch or broken wire. Key works fine although I did elongate the holes on the lid latch and adjusted that a mm or so and now it shuts and opens much better.

[murphybrown]

I have one of these on my 14, and it doesn't work. While I had the frunk off the other day, I checked a few things, but couldn't find which fuse controls this. Anyone know this? The previous owner said that it worked occasionally, sine my key works fine, not a big priority.

Bottom line discovered that the ground wire had come loose...

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I had the frunk off so I could see that nothing is bent. It is plugged in, I didn't check to see if I got voltage, but the actuator looked brand new and it doesn't move or hum or anything. The fuse is good, so I'm thinking switch or broken wire. Key works fine although I did elongate the holes on the lid latch and adjusted that a mm or so and now it shuts and opens much better.
Hope this isn't a dumb question, but are you testing it with the frunk lid closed, or holding down the micro switch arm by hand? The micro switch completes the ground circuit for both the actuator and the frunk light, the actuator when the arm is down, the light when the arm is up.

[pitzerwm]

Not a dumb question Was, I didn't know that but Doc Riverside and I were looking at the wiring diagram and saw that too. So when I get a minute, that is something that needs looked at.