rear trunk latch adjustment

[wiredgeorge]

The rear trunk on my 2010 Spyder RT only latches once in every 4-5 tries. Hard, gentle... doesn't matter. My manual is up in my shop but is there a way to adjust the latch so it latches easily and reliably every time?

[Chupaca]

but have you tried lubricating the system.?? Usually if out of adjustment it would latch easily and rattle or you have to slam it. :dontknow:

[wiredgeorge]

The frunk, trunk and glove box all lubed with lithium grease.

[Bob Denman]

Have you popped the back cover off yet for a closer look? :dontknow:
It's only 8 bolts: four up on top (You can see them with the lid popped open), and two more hidden by each saddlebag (Open them up; you can't miss them!)

[finless]

The screws holding the latch have a little play on the holes in the latch. You can loosen them and move it up which for me solved that. My lid now closes under it's own weight.

Bob

[wiredgeorge]

The screws holding the latch have a little play on the holes in the latch. You can loosen them and move it up which for me solved that. My lid now closes under it's own weight.

Bob

Thanks Bob... I didn't look at it carefully today as I was putting on new springs on my Elko shocks. In any case, I will look at it tomorrow. By the way, a service bulletin in my service manual says if the front is sometimes hard to close, you can get an alternate bushing. Being as I have an RT, I have no electric button and I have to be super careful to get the "hood" lined up perfectly straight where the latch can grab the depression in the current bushing or it just won't latch easily. Ever replace the bushing for the frunk latch? If there is a service bulletin, does the dealer charge you for the part? I suspect a little dremel grinding on the current one will do the same thing... I don't think the indent part is wide enough.

[finless]

Lots of things changed on 2010 and early 2011 RT models due to 2010 was the first year of the RT.
So I am not surprised something changed in the frunk hinge. But sorry I do not know about that TSB probably because it did not relate to my spyder.

Just remember this. a TSB is a Tech Service Bulletin not a recall. It may or may not be covered under warranty if you have a problem.

Anyway with that said, the front hinge on the frunk is a simple oval modeled thing. Take it apart and see what you can do with it. Just a suggestion.

Bob

[wiredgeorge]

Lots of things changed on 2010 and early 2011 RT models due to 2010 was the first year of the RT.
So I am not surprised something changed in the frunk hinge. But sorry I do not know about that TSB probably because it did not relate to my spyder.

Just remember this. a TSB is a Tech Service Bulletin not a recall. It may or may not be covered under warranty if you have a problem.

Anyway with that said, the front hinge on the frunk is a simple oval modeled thing. Take it apart and see what you can do with it. Just a suggestion.

Bob


Problem with the frunk latching is that the hood can move sideways almost 3/4" I guess. This can mis-align the bushing on the latch. The bushing is just a metal barrel with a shallow indented waist in the middle. If the other part of the latch controlled by the cable doesn't hit the indent exactly, it hits the full circumference of the bushing and that part is too wide for the hooked latch to grab.

[wiredgeorge]

As far as the rear trunk latch mechanism, I loosened the two screws that mount the receiver mechanisms and moved them slightly and checked function and after about a half hour gave up with no real improvement.

[Desert Spyder]

I asked my mech, The Pirate, if the rear lid can be adjusted any. It becomes unlatched all the time with the orange warning message on the display. Fortunately the gaz shock is not strong enough to push the lid up on its own. He said there is no adjustment, at least not on my 2010. I always forget to lock it. Not sure if that will help. I will lube the hell out of it next.

[finless]

I asked my mech, The Pirate, if the rear lid can be adjusted any. It becomes unlatched all the time with the orange warning message on the display. Fortunately the gaz shock is not strong enough to push the lid up on its own. He said there is no adjustment, at least not on my 2010. I always forget to lock it. Not sure if that will help. I will lube the hell out of it next.

While there is no "real" adjustment it can be adjusted and BRP even has an OLD service bulletin about it. I will see if I can find it. I guess the "pirate" doesn't know everything ;)

Next time I see you I will fix yours in about 15 minutes :)

Bob

[Gordy]

I had the same problem, trunk lid kept unlatching .Removed the rear panel to get to handle and found the cable had come off the guide and would not let latch close all the way .Put cable on guide and no more problem