Battery not charging

[silverado]

I have a 2013 RT LTD my battery is not charging , I checked it with a meter and it shows my alternator is not charging , any suggestions what I need to check or how to fix it .

[SNOOPY]

I'm guessing first things to check are clean and tight connections at the power terminals, especially the ground.

Sorry, not sure where those are on an RT.

I hate wiring issues, I'd probably take it to a dealer.

Hopefully, something simpler than the alternator.

[Bob Denman]

If the magneto isn't charging; this is a, "take it to the dealer" sort of problem... :shocked:

Good Luck; please let us know what they find! :thumbup:

[Tango]

Like what has already been said. Magneto, and dealer. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:

[jtoro1]

I have a 2013 RT LTD my battery is not charging , I checked it with a meter and it shows my alternator is not charging , any suggestions what I need to check or how to fix it .

Check your fuses there is some in fuse box's and one on the red cable 4 inches from the battery it is a little black box with one big fuse. But I think it is dealer time.

[wiredgeorge]

I am not a Can-Am mechanic but in general the alternator makes AC that comes off in three legs. The alternator connects to the reguilator/rectifier which changes the AC current into DC and at the proper amount of current to keep the battery charging. Power from the reg/rec goes to the battery and to the main fuse box where power goes to the ignition switch. Not sure how you tested the alternator but to do this you have to unplug the connector between the alternator and reg/rec and put your multimeter on AC and put one probe on one leg and one probe on another. You will gete a value specified by your shop manual. Most of the bikes I work on this value is about 45VAC but I suspect the Spyder has a much stronger alternator. You then check the other two possible ways... in other words A&C A&B then B&C. Value of AC should be within spec and same for all combinations. This check may be a bit difficult since there is a ton of plastic likely needing removal so try this. If the alternator and reg rec are working properly, measure DC at the battery. Start the engine and at idle you should see about 12.5 VDC. Rev engine to about 4K rpm and you should see 14.5 VDC or something along those lines. The 14 plus VDC is necessary to maintain a positive charge on the battery and if this is what you get it says the alternator and reg/rec are doing OK. Your issue is likely the battery. You can take it out and have it load tested by an autoparts store or replaced. If it is over 3 years old it is probably just as easy to replace. You could probably also take off the strip that covers the cells with the battery upright and measure specific gravity of the battery fluid using a hydrometer. This is a small gizmo that looks like an eyedropper. You put a hose on the end which will supplied with the hydrormeter and put it in the cell and draw out some fluid. There are colored balls and a chart for reading them but if ANY of the colored balls fails to float in the fluid the cell is either sulfated or is getting there and the battery can be considered unreliable.

[billybovine]

The charging system fuse is located, under the hood, under the left access panels, between the jumper posts.

The most common failure point for the charging system on a 998 engine appears to be a short in the stator/generating coil. As others have said unless you are a highly skilled mechanic it may be dealer time.

[Chupaca]

being a 2013 you have the stator charging system. There are several points to check but it does require a shop manual with the specs. Most of what I have seen is after checking all connections, fuses, connectors is the stator going bad. Not a tough job if you have some wrenching experience seeing as it is easy access on the left side of the engine. Odd that this would happen but depends on the loads you have on the system...:thumbup:

[billybovine]

being a 2013 you have the stator charging system. There are several points to check but it does require a shop manual with the specs. Most of what I have seen is after checking all connections, fuses, connectors is the stator going bad. Not a tough job if you have some wrenching experience seeing as it is easy access on the left side of the engine. Odd that this would happen but depends on the loads you have on the system...:thumbup:

Remember the OP has a RT Limited that automatically makes it a SE5. That means the HCM has to be removed first. That makes magneto access not so easy.

[Ronsam]

What do you have for voltage

Check your battery first . it need to be 12.6 volt in off position. in running 14 volt. if the battery is ground it will not charge.









I have a 2013 RT LTD my battery is not charging , I checked it with a meter and it shows my alternator is not charging , any suggestions what I need to check or how to fix it .