Notes on BajaRon anti-sway bar install and Heim link install

[wiredgeorge]

First, the u-tube video that was done is excellent. I would like to make a couple notes that might help someone else who has watched the video.

If you are over 60 years old, jack up the front 3" higher than you would have 10 years ago.

There is a black tupperware on the bottom that MUST come out for the old swaybar to drop so have a Torx T20 and T30 on hand. You will also use the T30 on two body panel torx screws.

Other tools I used were 8mm, 10mm 13mm sockets, a short ratchet extension (with the wrench of course) and two 13mm combo wrenches. A ratcheting 13mm 12 pt wrench is also handy.

I was able to not have any issues with the trunk spacer piece of 2x4 by placing it ABOVE the old anti-sway bar.

I started to get tears in my eyes removing the upper M8 bolt holding the Heim links... the metal flange the bolt goes through to retain the link is just plain in the way of more than about 1/8" turn of a 13mm wrench. I took out the four sheet metal-type screws holding the plastic covers off the A arms and had tons of room for a socket on a ratchet using a short extension holding the nut with a 13mm wrench.

Wish some torque specs had been given...

I first doubted the right hand panel opposite the oil fill panel was mounted the same as the instructions claimed as I had a heck of a time getting it out. The grommets were DRY so lube them a tad with some grease before re-installing.

The little black cover on the right over the frunk hides the coolant reservoir. Might as well check and top off as needed. I didn't think about coolant when I went over things initially.

I lifted the Spyder with a transmission jack placed on the forward part of the center frame and used jackstands under the ends of the A arms where they join. It is very stable. I had to initially put the front tires on 3/4" boards to get enough clearance for the jack to operate. I will be asking my kids for some ramps for Father's day to simplify under-the-front maintenance in the future.

[Bob Denman]

:clap: VERY insightful!! :2thumbs:
Thanks! :D

[Chupaca]

all in all you had fun. Like the good old days. Great tips for other diy'fers now get your battery straightened out and ryde it so you can see what it is all about..:2thumbs::ohyea::ohyea:

[cptjam]

Use a spritz of windex. Grease or oil makes the fit loose, and the panel might come loose.

[wiredgeorge]

all in all you had fun. Like the good old days. Great tips for other diy'fers now get your battery straightened out and ryde it so you can see what it is all about..:2thumbs::ohyea::ohyea:


Bought the new battery this AM after looking at options presented. Might as well order online as it appears like it is going to rain for the next 40 days and 40 nights. We need rain anyway so praise the Lord for that! wg

[IGETAROUND]

WG, you might ask those children and grandchildren to pool their funds and get you the yellow aluminum ATV jack from Sears.

Makes Lifting and working on the spyder eazy peazy and you don't have to use lumber to raise it high enough to get under it to lift. Good investment if you do your own wrenching.

[finless]

First, the u-tube video that was done is excellent. I would like to make a couple notes that might help someone else who has watched the video.

There is a black tupperware on the bottom that MUST come out for the old swaybar to drop so have a Torx T20 and T30 on hand. You will also use the T30 on two body panel torx screws.



I will comment that my video clearly did show you have to remove the skid plate on the bottom. Part one clearly states this right in the beginning when I get under the Spyder.

So maybe your referring to the instructions that do not state to remove that?

Your comment seemed to be about my video unless you were watching someone else's video?

So I want to be clear that I do in fact tell you this contrary to the instructions for your 2010 sway bar kit.

My part 1 video for reference.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqlTutXsIpQ

Just want to make sure I did not miss something!

Bob

[finless]

I started to get tears in my eyes removing the upper M8 bolt holding the Heim links... the metal flange the bolt goes through to retain the link is just plain in the way of more than about 1/8" turn of a 13mm wrench. I took out the four sheet metal-type screws holding the plastic covers off the A arms and had tons of room for a socket on a ratchet using a short extension holding the nut with a 13mm wrench.



I will just add a tip for you especially if your planning on doing more work on the Spyder.

EVER FREAKIN THING on this bike is fidgety! AND I MEAN EVERYTHING!

Plan on getting a set of ratchet style wrenches! Trust me you WILL need them!

Other items I had to buy to make it easier to work on the Spyder RT:

- Consider all the swivel gizmo's for sockets. Shorties, double knuckles, etc.
- Get a BUNCH of different length socket extenders.
- A good Torx set PERIOD
- A side angle Torx wrench e.g. like a ratchet socket wrench but holds a Torx bit.
- Not need but very nice to have is a socket wrench where you turn the handle (like a throttle) to turn the socket.
- A QUALITY small and I mean as small as you can get, vice grips.
- A bag of cuss words! And I mean a very large bag of them.

Bob

[BajaRon]

I will just add a tip for you especially if your planning on doing more work on the Spyder.

EVER FREAKIN THING on this bike is fidgety! AND I MEAN EVERYTHING!

Plan on getting a set of ratchet style wrenches! Trust me you WILL need them!

Other items I had to buy to make it easier to work on the Spyder RT:

- Consider all the swivel gizmo's for sockets. Shorties, double knuckles, etc.
- Get a BUNCH of different length socket extenders.
- A good Torx set PERIOD
- A side angle Torx wrench e.g. like a ratchet socket wrench but holds a Torx bit.
- Not need but very nice to have is a socket wrench where you turn the handle (like a throttle) to turn the socket.
- A QUALITY small and I mean as small as you can get, vice grips.
- A bag of cuss words! And I mean a very large bag of them.

Bob

Maybe that is what BRP means when they say; 'The Spyder offers a unique experience'! :shocked:

[finless]

Maybe that is what BRP means when they say; 'The Spyder offers a unique experience'! :shocked:

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Well when you want to wrench, it is a "enlightening" experience! :yikes:

One more add, a bottle of "new skin"!!!!!!

Bob

[JerryB]

Hi Bob,

Re: A bag of cuss words! And I mean a very large bag of them.

That reminds me of a Saturday about 30 yrs ago. The kitchen sink/plumbing had some problem that I no longer remember.

I got up, had breakfast & headed out to the hardware store. Came home with more parts than I would ever need.

I then told the wife to take the kids and go to a movie or the zoo or wherever as it was going to get really mean under that sink.

They all left and I could scream and holler as loud as I wanted.

:yikes:

Jerry Baumchen

[finless]

I got ya Jerry.....

Oh and here is another rule! This is a BIG ONE and Jerry your story reminded me of this.

If your Wife, partner, or whatever tends to not be capable of LEAVING YOU ALONE FOR A FEW HOURS without the need to ask you a question totally unrelated to what your doing and to you, not even important..... Like, what are we going to do for vacation in 2021? OMG.......

Make sure you set rules when working on the Spyder! I AM SERIOUS HERE!

DO NOT COME OUT AND BUG ME WHEN YOU SEE MY FACE BURRIED IN THE SPYDER!

It's OK to come out if you see me taking a break, no tools in my hands, etc... but if my face and hands are working, DO NOT ask me questions about ANYTHING!

Seriously guys (and gals), when you are frustrated working on the Spyder.... distraction is something you will not be able to deal with!

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Bob

[finless]

As a IT nerd... here is one that get's me every time when your wrenching, upset, and bleeding...

"I need to send this Email but my PC is not working right"...

Oh and it's an email that in the end could be done via a phone call!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Ooops... OK.... I am spinning now.... never mind....

Bob

[wiredgeorge]

WG, you might ask those children and grandchildren to pool their funds and get you the yellow aluminum ATV jack from Sears.

Makes Lifting and working on the spyder eazy peazy and you don't have to use lumber to raise it high enough to get under it to lift. Good investment if you do your own wrenching.

I have a similar jack... probably at least 30 years old. Red. It was in one of my other shops and too heavy to drag. Also, when I am under something that weighs about as much as me, I like jack stands.

[wiredgeorge]

I will comment that my video clearly did show you have to remove the skid plate on the bottom. Part one clearly states this right in the beginning when I get under the Spyder.

So maybe your referring to the instructions that do not state to remove that?

Your comment seemed to be about my video unless you were watching someone else's video?

So I want to be clear that I do in fact tell you this contrary to the instructions for your 2010 sway bar kit.

My part 1 video for reference.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqlTutXsIpQ

Just want to make sure I did not miss something!

Bob

I will take a look at the video again. Seem to recall you removed the tupperware skid thing and were kind of surprised that it was there since someone sells a similar piece that is a bit larger. I seem to recall you said something to the effect it didn't need to be removed and you were doing it to make things easier to see.... forgive me if I got this wrong as I only watched once. Also, you complained about several switches you bent up that do not exist on my bike. Not sure you were aware that a 2010 doesn't have the frunk-open switch or at leas mine doesn't and there was one on the other side I don't have.

[cptjam]

Slapped one in yesterday. Took about 95 minutes. None of the tools referenced above are extraordinary. Had all of those for years. Swear words? Paratroopers come with a fluency of curse! Practically a second language! All set there! No surprises, and the results are fantastic! A big thanks to Ron for this thing! Any questions on these, call me. Having Spyderann working with me is a huge timesaver! Doesn't everyone work on Spyders with their spouses? The family that mods together, stays together! Riding helps, too!

[wiredgeorge]

I will comment that my video clearly did show you have to remove the skid plate on the bottom. Part one clearly states this right in the beginning when I get under the Spyder.

So maybe your referring to the instructions that do not state to remove that?

Your comment seemed to be about my video unless you were watching someone else's video?

So I want to be clear that I do in fact tell you this contrary to the instructions for your 2010 sway bar kit.

My part 1 video for reference.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqlTutXsIpQ

Just want to make sure I did not miss something!

Bob

You are correct... I went back and re-watched the video and you stated that Ron's instructions included with the new anti-sway bar don't say you need to remove the "bump skid" but you were going to remove it for better access. You are 100 percent correct and the old sway bar will never come out without removing it. Sorry for any confusion my comments caused. Having scanned BajaRon's instructions and watching your video, I kind of blended the two in my head I guess.

[Old Prof]

Has anyone made/posted a video of installing Ron's swaybar on a '15 RT? :dontknow:

[Tnpapa]

Had the Baja Ron swaybar installed at spyderfest on Thursday, had to take it back on Saturday to Pit Bulls. There was a popping sound coming from under the bike. They said that it was a bad bushing in the link out of the box. They said that they had never seen that before. No worries as they took care of it and we were back on the bike soon. Rons bar is a miracle worker as far as the handling goes.Thanks to Ann and John from squared away and Spyderpops for the bad boy horn I am one happy camper.