Replacing the rear tire on your Spyder - Video

[finless]

OK folks, I finally put on my Yokohama "S" Drive tire.
Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

Hope it helps someone.

Bob


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWtbQPdKd8w

[cognaccruiser]

Thank you very much for doing this video.

Gary

[Chupaca]

a very nice video that will help a lot of folks venturing into doing there own...thanks for that and all your videos..:bowdown::2thumbs:

[mstella101]

Bob,kudos to you and all you other Spyderlovers with the big brass b@%&$ that have the knowledge and hutzpah to tackle a job like that- I especially like it when you said "Its really pretty easy to do this". Thank you for posting such an in depth video. It helps all of us decide if we want to tackle a job like this!- Keep 'em coming

[jcthorne]

Video is much appreciated. Calling to order 2 Yokohama S-Drive tires now.

[JerryB]

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

[Purple Guy]

Once again, a big :2thumbs: Bob on another excellent video!

[cyclelover63]

Awesome and full of little tips..:bowdown::bowdown:..Still going to have my dealer do it!!....lol

[wd8ajj]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..

[vrider]

Hey Finless..... Appreciate all the videos you and others have created about the Spyder, they are a big help and fun to watch.

[jcthorne]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..


2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.

[finless]

2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.

That was my understanding too but not knowing for sure I did not want to say.

JC, why two? If these go 20k or more, it might be a while before you use the 2nd one and the rubber will deteriorate just sitting.

Bob

[jcthorne]

That was my understanding too but not knowing for sure I did not want to say.

JC, why two? If these go 20k or more, it might be a while before you use the 2nd one and the rubber will deteriorate just sitting.

Bob

2 Spyders! Wifes has a few less miles than me but would need a tire before we get back from Spyderfest as well. Mine is pretty well gone at 7000 miles.

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Well, still no answer so I thought I would give it a bump.

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

[finless]

Hi folks,

Well, still no answer so I thought I would give it a bump.

Hi Bob,

Re: Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

This may be a rather stupid question, but will that procedure work on all models?

And again, Thanks muchly for all of your videos,

Jerry Baumchen

I cannot say for sure. Lamont did a video showing how to remove the tire on a RS. I watched it and it looks about the same to me.
As for 2014 and up, I cannot say for sure sorry.

Bob

[billybovine]

Great video and should be helpful to a lot of folks.

A couple comments based on my experience.

There is no need to remove the hub for a tire change at the 2 shops I have used. I guess it would depend on the equipment the tire shop has. In all cases I needed the hub in place to balance the wheel. Even if it can be balanced without the hub, more rotating mass included in the balance can only result in a better balance.

When disconnecting the shock to remove the belt. When the swing arm is left to hang all the weight is supported by the ABS sensor wire. You need to be careful not to damage the wire.

The possibility of a shim washer under the brake is only on 2013 or later models with Brembo brake. At least that is the way I understand it.

Last week someone posted some pictures on changing their tire and they did not unbolt the brake caliper. I may try that next time and see how it works out.

Thanks for your comments on the Yokohama tire. That's what I am putting on in the next couple weeks.

[billybovine]

Good for 2013 and earlier but 2014 + am told is diff due to new engine ect..

The rear wheel assembly is basically identical for all Spyders including F3's. There are some minor differences for color and some 2015's have 6 spoke wheel. But none of that is important in the removal and install procedure.

[bronzeflex42]

Thanks Finless for this video. I have been waiting for a while to see a video on the RT rear tire removal. I'm a DIY guy and really appreciate this site and the people that don't mind posting videos and tips when working on our :spyder:. :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :yes:

[finless]

Great video and should be helpful to a lot of folks.

A couple comments based on my experience.

There is no need to remove the hub for a tire change at the 2 shops I have used. I guess it would depend on the equipment the tire shop has. In all cases I needed the hub in place to balance the wheel. Even if it can be balanced without the hub, more rotating mass included in the balance can only result in a better balance.

When disconnecting the shock to remove the belt. When the swing arm is left to hang all the weight is supported by the ABS sensor wire. You need to be careful not to damage the wire.

The possibility of a shim washer under the brake is only on 2013 or later models with Brembo brake. At least that is the way I understand it.

Last week someone posted some pictures on changing their tire and they did not unbolt the brake caliper. I may try that next time and see how it works out.

Thanks for your comments on the Yokohama tire. That's what I am putting on in the next couple weeks.

Billy, I covered many of these points in my Video. Spacer, ABS sensor, etc, etc. I guess you did not watch the entire thing ;)

Bob

[finless]

Just a little follow up about the Yokohama S Drive tire.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLelkDLbd9E


Bob

[billybovine]

The diameter is almost exactly the same. That is one of the reasons I was interested in that size. The tire size that corrects the speedo, some have reported it does not fit under the fender on a GS/RS or ST.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=103401&stc=1

[jcthorne]

Thanks for the feedback. Look forward to them on our bikes.

Just FYI, the actual width of the Yokohama S-Drive 205/55-15 is 8.6 inches as reported by Yokohama. Yokos usually do run on the wider side of nominal sizes on their performance tires. Actual diameter is 23.9 inches and revolutions per mile is 871 but I do not have the actual specs for the Kenda to compare to.

[cognaccruiser]

Well I guess I'm about half way there on my 2014 RTS. I have the rear wheel off and will have to wait until next week to get the tire changed. I use, when ever possible, a local independent bike shop for tires and a few other things. A great guy and his wife run it. Very honest and very competent so I like to give him any business I can. He's closed Mondays like most bike shops so will set it up Tuesday.

A few observations.
Yes I needed a small pair of vice grips to hold the back of the shock sensor arm to remove the bolt.

When removing the bolt from the bottom of the shock, it was necessary to adjust the height of the jack to make sliding the bolt out easier.

There didn't appear to be any shim on either of the bolts holding the brake assembly on. Nothing fell out. I'm a little nervous about putting the brake assembly back on only because of having to slide the brake pads over the disk. Probably just me looking for something to be anxious about. :(
I didn't disconnect the ABS sensor but was very careful about resting the assembly on some blocks of wood and not stressing the wire.

I took the disk off from the drum but left the drum on and hope I can get the tire changed that way. Not a big deal if I have to remove it.

Removing the belt sprocket turned out to be a lot easier than I expected based on Bob's comments. I marked the position of each of the rubber pads with numbers and will replace them in the same order. Not sure if it matters but have marked the disk so it will go back in the same position too.

The nut holding the axel was pretty tight. Had to buy a 36mm socket and had to order a 36 mm combination wrench. Nobody locally had one. But the axel slid out quite easily. One of the things I did a little differently was that I removed the painted body work behind the trunk and the black plastic fender that holds the license. Pretty easy to remove thanks to information posted by others on SL and it made it easy to just roll the wheel out once the axel was out.

Man, that yellow loc tite stuff BRP uses is pretty tough. Will put a tiny amount of blue loc tite on the bolts that had yellow. Nothing that goes any where near plastic.

One thing I'm not sure about is how much torque to use when replacing bolts like the brake disk. I believe 35 lbs/ft for the drum but I may not have to remove it. Is the rear axel nut 150 lbs/ft? My torque wrench only goes to 150. I don't know what to use for the bolts holding the brake assembly on the Spyder or the bolt holding the shock.

Almost chickened out of doing this but hated to go to the dealer and wanted to do it myself to learn. Also, my belt was going to need a slight adjustment as it had become too tight to the inside flange. It was fine earlier but now I can't even get my finger nail between the belt and the flange on the sprocket so want to be able to do those adjustments myself. I'll do it when I put everything back together. Hope it goes back together as easy as it came apart.

Thanks to Bob, Lamont and all those that post how to do things on this forum. It is very much appreciated.

Gary

[jcthorne]

Just came back here to thank finless and to say all is well, both tires changed out Friday and we went for an extended ride today. VERY happy with the Yokohama tire. Will take a while to see how it will wear but it simply cannot be any worse than the POS Kenda tires. Nice to have a name brand, Z speed rated, made in USA tire on my bike. Each of them took less than 1oz to balance. Shows good quality control in manufacture.

[finless]

Gary, sounds like your doing fine buddy....

FYI the axel is 100 ft lbs torque! There are some mistakes in other documentation about it being any higher than that!
That's what my service manual says so you know.

The brake Caliper bolts are 35 lbs. Same with holding the disk on to the hub!
Blue locktite is fine! That is what I used!

For putting the caliper back on and getting it on the disk. No worries mate! Just take your time, spread the pads, and it will slide on the same way it came off.... Trust me!

PM me if you need some help buddy and I will give you my phone number!

Bob

[finless]

Just came back here to thank finless and to say all is well, both tires changed out Friday and we went for an extended ride today. VERY happy with the Yokohama tire. Will take a while to see how it will wear but it simply cannot be any worse than the POS Kenda tires. Nice to have a name brand, Z speed rated, made in USA tire on my bike. Each of them took less than 1oz to balance. Shows good quality control in manufacture.

JC, I think this tire "IS" the "keeper" and the best car tire replacement right now.

While I wanted the Michelin Hydroedge because I love Michelin tires, they do not make that anymore. The replacement Defender IS NOT a good tire for the Spyder due to it's offset tread.

Anyway, I rode all week to work and hit speeds of up to 80 MPH on Ca. freeways without ANY balancing! FREAKIN WONDERFUL!

So you and I are now some of the few that are using this tire. Let's keep folks up to date on how it goes.... :2thumbs:

By the way, I AM NOT the person that came up with this alternative tire! It was recommended to me by Spyder Lover User: spyderyderjim
In this post here:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?74404-Tire-hell-sorry

So I cannot take ANY credit for this tire choice...

spyderyderjim
THANK you for this wonderful recommendation! Loving it buddy! I hope you see this post as I thank you.... :cheers:

Bob

[danotech]

What did you find your belt tension was? Did you use a kricket? I'm still trying to get the belt alignment taking correct. Thought I had it right but riding over on the left edge. I need to tweak it a but mite. Finding small adjustments are the key.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

[randyandsandy74]

OK folks, I finally put on my Yokohama "S" Drive tire.
Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

Hope it helps someone.

Bob


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWtbQPdKd8w

Thank you Bob for your video it really helped with the loose adjusters!

[jcthorne]

JC, I think this tire "IS" the "keeper" and the best car tire replacement right now.

While I wanted the Michelin Hydroedge because I love Michelin tires, they do not make that anymore. The replacement Defender IS NOT a good tire for the Spyder due to it's offset tread.

Anyway, I rode all week to work and hit speeds of up to 80 MPH on Ca. freeways without ANY balancing! FREAKIN WONDERFUL!

So you and I are now some of the few that are using this tire. Let's keep folks up to date on how it goes.... :2thumbs:




Now I have about 10k miles to find the correct front tires....

[finless]

What did you find your belt tension was? Did you use a kricket? I'm still trying to get the belt alignment taking correct. Thought I had it right but riding over on the left edge. I need to tweak it a but mite. Finding small adjustments are the key.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

Yes I used the KirKit II to check the tension. It did not change for me and is at about 170 lbs.
Small alignment adjustments wont change the belt tension enough to see it on the KirKit II. At least I did not.

Remember I have a 2011 RTS and I believe the 13's and up they run it higher to help eliminate belt vibes.

Just a video (not by me) that shows how to adjust. Again make sure your end caps are not loose when you tighten the axle.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Ewxr7qwqo


Bob

[cognaccruiser]

Bob, thanks for the torque numbers and the encouragement. Sure it will all go back together but if any questions, I'll post.

Cheers, Gary

[rays hell]

Thanks for the video Bob, I can NOT believe my dealer charges $260.00 to do that same thing. Still shaking my head.:shocked:
Maybe they're trying to pay for the tire changing machine.
I opted for a different tire though. I chose a Nitto 205/55/15 and comes with a 45,000 tread wear warranty.

[Andy Cserny]

Hi finless,
great video, thanks for taking the time and effort to do this, a great help for us newbies to the Spyder World. I did not see the size of your tire, probably my oversight. I did note that you didnt like the Michelin with the assymetrical tread pattern, unfortunately I had already bought that tire and will report on the 1330 forum on how it does , that is if it doesnt kill me.
Andy

[finless]

Here is the tire spec

Yokohama S. Drive
Size isL 205-55-15

Bob

[Highwayman2013]

Hi finless,
great video, thanks for taking the time and effort to do this, a great help for us newbies to the Spyder World. I did not see the size of your tire, probably my oversight. I did note that you didnt like the Michelin with the assymetrical tread pattern, unfortunately I had already bought that tire and will report on the 1330 forum on how it does , that is if it doesnt kill me.
AndyIt won't kill you, I have it on for over 9,000 miles.

[Bernie]

I tried to buy a Kumho Ecsta AST 225/50 15 tire from Discount Tire. They said they would not sell it to me because I said it was going on a spyder.

[retirednick]

I am very late responding to the thread but I wanted to thank Bob for the Video and I only wish that the dealer here would charge $260 for a tire change. Here in sunny (today) Alberta it's over $800 and that of course is with the OEM put back on. Somwhere there is a new tire making it's way across the country so I should be on the road within a week.

[finless]

I am very late responding to the thread but I wanted to thank Bob for the Video and I only wish that the dealer here would charge $260 for a tire change. Here in sunny (today) Alberta it's over $800 and that of course is with the OEM put back on. Somwhere there is a new tire making it's way across the country so I should be on the road within a week.

$800! :yikes:

That is highway robbery!!!!

So are you going to do it yourself?

If so, try it with modifications others suggested.
1) When you take the tire to a car place to get the tire on the rim, see if they can do it without removing the hub from the rim (you will still need to pull off the belt pulley). If they can, this will save time! If I was to do it again I would try it. Removing and replacing the hub doubled the time and effort. BUT with that said, taking the hub off does allow you to inspect all your bearings not just the outer ones.

Now should you need bearings, there are many posts about this! So study them. I am glad my bearing were good but if they were not, I was ready to do that job and had ordered this stuff:
293200094 Seal. Model-RT STD 2 required
293300124 O-Ring $4.99
293350067 Ball Bearing $9.99 2 required
293350065 Double Row Bearing. Model-RT STD $26.99


2) Instead of removing the bottom shock bolt, just jack the rear up higher to be able to get the tire out from under the bumper / mud flap.
However, I am pretty sure to do it this way you have to turn the belt adjusters to get the belt off. As some have said, mark them and count the turns out you made to loosen the belt adjustment. With that said however, I would still just drop the bottom shock bolt as for me this seemed to work well for me with no issues.


Good luck!

Bob

[mstella101]

Just ordered the kuhmo- really wanted the yokohama but I could not find anyone dealer or another shop to install it- I was told because it was a 205 not 225 that there would be problems. This bums me out since yoko is my first choice but it sounds like I won't be dissapointed with Kuhmo. I just know with 7500 miles on my '13 St-S I don't want to put on another Kenda( to steal a line from Seinfeld) 'Not that theres anything wrong with that!'. BTW The Service Mgr. said it would be about a 1 1/2 hour job.

[jcthorne]

Just ordered the kuhmo- really wanted the yokohama but I could not find anyone dealer or another shop to install it- I was told because it was a 205 not 225 that there would be problems. This bums me out since yoko is my first choice but it sounds like I won't be dissapointed with Kuhmo. I just know with 7500 miles on my '13 St-S I don't want to put on another Kenda( to steal a line from Seinfeld) 'Not that theres anything wrong with that!'. BTW The Service Mgr. said it would be about a 1 1/2 hour job.


To heck with the NOMINAL size numbers. the ACTUAL width of the Yokohama is less than 3/16 of an inch difference and its EXACTLY the same diameter, better dry and wet traction, better speed and load rating and just all around a much better tire. If you dealer really is trying to steer you to the Kuhmo, they don't know or care much about tires. At least the dealers that push the OEM Kenda are just following the company line no matter if it makes sense to the customer or not.

[mstella101]

Sorry, the dealer wasn't steering me - bad pun - in the direction of the Kuhmo, I have to purchase the tire from somewhere else and bring it over to the dealer to have it installed. Again they thought it would be OK to install a different brand as long as it was the same size. They are a new dealer so I understand if they would like to do everything 'by the book'. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, cause I do need a new tire so we in the Midwest can start riding soon.

[YIRYDE]

JC, I think this tire "IS" the "keeper" and the best car tire replacement right now.

While I wanted the Michelin Hydroedge because I love Michelin tires, they do not make that anymore. The replacement Defender IS NOT a good tire for the Spyder due to it's offset tread.

Anyway, I rode all week to work and hit speeds of up to 80 MPH on Ca. freeways without ANY balancing! FREAKIN WONDERFUL!

So you and I are now some of the few that are using this tire. Let's keep folks up to date on how it goes.... :2thumbs:

By the way, I AM NOT the person that came up with this alternative tire! It was recommended to me by Spyder Lover User: spyderyderjim
In this post here:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?74404-Tire-hell-sorry

So I cannot take ANY credit for this tire choice...

spyderyderjim
THANK you for this wonderful recommendation! Loving it buddy! I hope you see this post as I thank you.... :cheers:

Bob

I just completed an 1800 mile round trip Bike week ride and S-Drive performed great. I didn't experience hardly any rain so I can't comment on the performance in the rain but on dry pavement it was great. If I can get at least 20K of mileage out this tire I will be very happy.

[finless]

I just completed an 1800 mile round trip Bike week ride and S-Drive performed great. I didn't experience hardly any rain so I can't comment on the performance in the rain but on dry pavement it was great. If I can get at least 20K of mileage out this tire I will be very happy.

Good to hear! Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Now that I have some long rides under my belt with this tire.... NO WAY would I use anything else including Khumo.

I personally believe this is the best tire for an RT available right now. It's a high RPM high rated tire and you cannot beat that!

While I don't have any experience with other tires, the more of us that share their experiences with this Yokohama tire, the better educated others are for choices later.
And that's what sharing is all about! :ohyea:

Bob

[johnwinslow]

OK folks, I finally put on my Yokohama "S" Drive tire.
Shot a video on how to do it or at least how I did it.

Hope it helps someone.

Bob


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWtbQPdKd8w

Bob just changed another tire. the guy at the tire place said, just remove the sprocket, no need to remove brake disc and hub, his unit grips the wheel from just the left side to dismount and mount the new tire

[robtdonna]

Always enjoy your videos Bob !:yes: Keep then coming.

[Bensonoid]

I hate to complain but how about a nice coat of nail polish on those toes for the next video.

[opiewhan]

Awesome and full of little tips..:bowdown::bowdown:..Still going to have my dealer do it!!....lol

Will your dealer put on a Yokohama?? Mine wont..Must be a quote un-qoute "motorcycle" tire or they could face a lawsuit..So im stuck right now deciding weather to just put on Kenda's or find a way to get a Yokohama or Kumho on my bike..nojoke:dontknow::dontknow:

[finless]

Will your dealer put on a Yokohama?? Mine wont..Must be a quote un-qoute "motorcycle" tire or they could face a lawsuit..So im stuck right now deciding weather to just put on Kenda's or find a way to get a Yokohama or Kumho on my bike..nojoke:dontknow::dontknow:

If you watch the video I say I took the tire off and went to the car tire place. I went to Allen Tire. There were no questions asked. I told them it was for a custom trike but I really did not need to say anything.

Also as people are saying above, you "may" not need to remove the hub as some tire places have equipment that doesn't require removal of the hub.

BUT, with that said I am still glad I did remove it as I wanted to check all the bearings and seals. You cannot do that without removing the hub.

Bob

[pslawing]

Now that you been running that tire awhile. Please update your thoughts on how it's wearing and riding!

[finless]

Now that you been running that tire awhile. Please update your thoughts on how it's wearing and riding!

I have 7K on my Yoko and loving the tire. As Paul said it's great for the weather I have out here.
Looking at the tread wear it looks like I will get about 14K out of it maybe more.
I got 12K out of my 2011 Kenda stock tire.
So for me this is a winner tire. High quality performance tire with excellent ratings. Love how it rides, it's grip on the road, etc.

If you want a tire that will go more miles than say 14K or so, your going to get a harder tire and it is not going to grip as well. Unfortunately this is the trade off.

When this tire is gone I will probably get the Yoko again.

Bob

[pegasus1300]

Will your dealer put on a Yokohama?? Mine wont..Must be a quote un-qoute "motorcycle" tire or they could face a lawsuit..So im stuck right now deciding weather to just put on Kenda's or find a way to get a Yokohama or Kumho on my bike..nojoke:dontknow::dontknow:

Any tire shop can do it. I live in Rural Utah no major tire companies around me.I took my wheel to the local guys asked can you put this tire on this rim,He said"I have four different tire machines I can mount anything on anything,and he did 10 min job including a dyna bead balance $25 plus $3.00 tire disposal fee, included balance. 5K miles so far no wear showing, no problems.

[AY4B]

I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo. :thumbup:
The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.

[jtoro1]

I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo. :thumbup:
The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.

OR BS THEM TELL THEM IT FOR A CAR BUT I THINK YOU GOT THE BEST TIRE ,KUMHOS HYDROPLANE A HAD 2

[AY4B]

Thanks, I also found a dealer that will put it on. BTW, Louis Powersports just lost any of my business,:mad:

[Pampurrs]

I purchased my General Altimax RT43 on Amazon, no questions asked. Received the tire on Friday and mounting it tomorrow.

Pam

[Sarge707]

http://www.townfairtire.com/tfttirespecials_2.aspx?size=205/55r15&gclid=ck-w-tcknsscfdyshwod2kuh7q

With 14,500 on the RT will need a new rear in about 1,000 miles- Do Yo think Town Fair Tire (Has the Tire above) would mount it for you if you brought in the wheel?
Anyone use them?

[billybovine]

I had ordered the Kuhmo early this morning and after seeing this thread wished I'd got a Yokohama. I called discount tire and they were going to change it to the Yoko and realized it was for a spyder and they canceled the order. I just went to Amazon and ordered the Yoko and spent less $$. Discount makes you think you are getting it for less but they add a 10.00+ charge for a certificate for refund or replacement. So now Im getting the Yoko for only 6 dollars more than the Kuhmo. :thumbup:
The moral of the story is dont ever say you are putting a car tire on a Spyder.

You dodged a bullet there. I know it's hard to not get caught up in the chant from Kuhmo cult. I had a Kuhmo and trashed it long before it was worn out. The only thing it seemed to stick to was black fresh asphalt. Grey pavement I had to little careful with the throttle. Wet pavement I had to treat like driving on ice. Hydroplaned in even a tiny amount of standing water. The Yokohama S drive is better. Still open to finding something better yet.

[Peter Aawen]

A lot of that ^^ sort of problem can be traced back to running the wrong tire pressures for the load the tires are carrying & the way they are being used, as well as your expectations. ANY tire run at pressures that are too high for the load it's carrying/the way it's being used will hydro-plane in some conditions &/or have poor traction on any/all surfaces, and many drivers/riders just don't realise how critical the difference of as little as just 1psi in their tires might be to the traction & ride/handling characteristics of said tire. So unless you've seriously tried adjusting your tire pressures to suit your load/riding style & provide the optimal balance of traction & ride/handling from that tire, blaming the tire for a lack of traction or otherwise is not a realistic response.... :shocked:

Still, the compound (or compounds - some tire manufacturers use two or more compounds across the tread face of the tire) that are used in the tread of the tire can have a big impact on how well a particular tire grips & behaves, altho if you bother, you as the operator can manage that behaviour to a large degree by adjusting your tire pressure to produce various desireable results or to reduce the un-desireable results. Kumho's (in general, altho there are specific exceptions in their line-up) tend to use more of a 'longer lasting' compound than some other brands, (including Yokohama, which in general are more of a softer compound using performance brand) which means that to provide the same degree of traction & to avoid hydro-planing, it is very likely you'll need to run lower pressures in a Kumho so that the tire compound will heat up more & become 'stickier' than you would in the same sized/tread type Yokohama. But you can achieve very much the same traction by adjusting your pressures suitably, altho it will likely be at some cost in terms of the potential tire life (probably countered by the longer life harder compound tho) - broadly speaking, the stickier you make your tires the quicker they will wear, altho lighter construction &/or softer compound tires will generally flex more & get hot quicker & thereby wear quicker than heavier construction/harder compound tires....

With a little effort, you can manage your tire pressures to get the best balance of performance, ride, handling, & traction from whatever tires you run if you want to, & maybe even learn how to pick a brand/construction of tire that best suits what you want from your tires; all it takes is learning how to vary your tire pressures to do so & then making the effort. OR you can just treat your tires as black round things that keep the metal bits off the road & just set & forget your tire pressures, blaming the tire itself for your lack of effort & thereby significantly effecting things like potential tire life, traction, ride, handling, etc & possibly even your riding enjoyment. Many people who do the latter even change the brands/tread patterns of their tires often until they stumble (generally by pure fluke) across one that works sorta OK for them despite their lack of involvement/input into such a critical part of their ride enjoyment & safety....

Your choice :rolleyes:

[billybovine]

A lot of that ^^ sort of problem can be traced back to running the wrong tire pressures for the load the tires are carrying & the way they are being used, as well as your expectations. ANY tire run at pressures that are too high for the load it's carrying/the way it's being used will hydro-plane in some conditions &/or have poor traction on any/all surfaces, and many drivers/riders just don't realise how critical the difference of as little as just 1psi in their tires might be to the traction & ride/handling characteristics of said tire. So unless you've seriously tried adjusting your tire pressures to suit your load/riding style & provide the optimal balance of traction & ride/handling from that tire, blaming the tire for a lack of traction or otherwise is not a realistic response.... :shocked:

Still, the compound (or compounds - some tire manufacturers use two or more compounds across the tread face of the tire) that are used in the tread of the tire can have a big impact on how well a particular tire grips & behaves, altho if you bother, you as the operator can manage that behaviour to a large degree by adjusting your tire pressure to produce various desireable results or to reduce the un-desireable results. Kumho's (in general, altho there are specific exceptions in their line-up) tend to use more of a 'longer lasting' compound than some other brands, (including Yokohama, which in general are more of a softer compound using performance brand) which means that to provide the same degree of traction & to avoid hydro-planing, it is very likely you'll need to run lower pressures in a Kumho so that the tire compound will heat up more & become 'stickier' than you would in the same sized/tread type Yokohama. But you can achieve very much the same traction by adjusting your pressures suitably, altho it will likely be at some cost in terms of the potential tire life (probably countered by the longer life harder compound tho) - broadly speaking, the stickier you make your tires the quicker they will wear, altho lighter construction &/or softer compound tires will generally flex more & get hot quicker & thereby wear quicker than heavier construction/harder compound tires....

With a little effort, you can manage your tire pressures to get the best balance of performance, ride, handling, & traction from whatever tires you run if you want to, & maybe even learn how to pick a brand/construction of tire that best suits what you want from your tires; all it takes is learning how to vary your tire pressures to do so & then making the effort. OR you can just treat your tires as black round things that keep the metal bits off the road & just set & forget your tire pressures, blaming the tire itself for your lack of effort & thereby significantly effecting things like potential tire life, traction, ride, handling, etc & possibly even your riding enjoyment. Many people who do the latter even change the brands/tread patterns of their tires often until they stumble (generally by pure fluke) across one that works sorta OK for them despite their lack of involvement/input into such a critical part of their ride enjoyment & safety....

Your choice :rolleyes:

I do understand the relationship between tire pressure and traction. I gave up on the kuhmo at 20 psi. At that pressure I disliked the feel in the corners. Which was surprise to me because of the stiffer construction. When the only requirement is to last longer and all the bad characteristics are ignored, kumho is a great tire. ;)

[JKMSPYDER]

I have run 28 psi in a rear Kumho tire with no traction or hydroplane problems.

[jcthorne]

You dodged a bullet there. I know it's hard to not get caught up in the chant from Kuhmo cult. I had a Kuhmo and trashed it long before it was worn out. The only thing it seemed to stick to was black fresh asphalt. Grey pavement I had to little careful with the throttle. Wet pavement I had to treat like driving on ice. Hydroplaned in even a tiny amount of standing water. The Yokohama S drive is better. Still open to finding something better yet.

The Toyo R888 is better for traction. MUCH better but it will not last much more than about 8k even on a car.

[jcthorne]

I have run 28 psi in a rear Kumho tire with no traction or hydroplane problems.


Well if your Kuhmo was not having traction problems, you were not using enough throttle. They are pretty poor on an RT, downright awful on an F3 which is pretty traction limited with the soft stock Kenda.

[Drypowder]

I have an F3 and
I'm going to order this tire as well. Does it need the weights removed and dyna beads added or just remove the weights and add the beads later if needed. I Was quoted 139 for arachnid and 130 for installation at a dealer and that's just not going to happen!

[jcthorne]

We recommend not using the dyna beads. Balance the tire/wheel before putting it on the bike.

The centramatic balancers work well too as long as the tire balance is close. Our experience has shown that with the Yoko tire, if you line up the yellow dot with the valve stem, they balance with VERY little to no weights and well within the capabilities of the centramatics. This is NOT true of the Kendas.

[Sarge707]

Well I have had the Kumho on my RT for 1,000 miles now and I like it . I accelerate Hard (Many times Hitting 60 in 2nd gear) But I Do Not Burn rubber for No reason. Shows No real wear yet and at 28 PSI it s still quite warm to the touch when I stop. It seemed to balance very well when the tire shop mounted it with the red dot at the valve stem. I Only ride on Dry -Rain Free- Days.

[pegasus1300]

"We recommend not using the dyna beads."

Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
What did I miss?

[BoilerAnimal]

No Tupperware removal necessary. Your brake will be different because it's a Brembo and is not bolted in place but has a nub that locates the front of the assembly and the axle does the rest, IIRC. Super easy! Just take your time and use your phone to take pictures for reference when reassembly, if you want.

[jcthorne]

"We recommend not using the dyna beads."

Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
What did I miss?

We have had several tires destroyed by clumping dyna beads. Also they do not balance until you are up at highway speed and personally I hate the wobble getting there. Its much better to balance the tire/wheel properly before installing. It only takes a few minutes to do the job right. Yes, a motorcycle wheel takes different equipment or adaptors to balance than a car wheel.

[jcthorne]

Thanks. I also have a hitch; should I plan on removing that first?

Also, what's the best location for the jack - under the frame (where?) or the swing-arm (where?) or both?

Hitch will have to come off first.

Place the jack under the rear most portion of the frame. Do not jack under the shock mounting bolt.

[BoilerAnimal]

The axle nut on my 2013 is a 36 mm. Can't speak about the 2014 or newer models.

[Peteoz]

"We recommend not using the dyna beads."

Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
What did I miss?

Paul,
........not directly related to the Dyna beads, but re the tyre shop not being able to balance.......when I ordered my front and rear tyres from my tyre shop, they suggested I book in at the bike shop on the way home as they could easily do the balance on their equipment. Sure it cost a few bucks, but it was a solution if you want your tyres balanced the normal way and the tyre shop doesn't have the right equipment.

p.s. I didn't do that as the tyre shop said that with the Kuhmos I was buying, they would be very well balanced as long as they were aligned to the valve......plus, I had just ordered Lamont's Balancers.

Pete

[jcthorne]

What is the 36mm wrench needed for? The axle bolt and nut on mine is only 19mm. Must be some other step unrelated to removing the axle bolt?

The 19mm one is the trailer hitch bolt that goes through the hollow axle. You will have a 36mm behind the hitch when you get it off.

[UtahPete]

Bob, this is for a 2011 and I understand there have been several changes to the rear wheel, brakes, etc since then that might affect this process; is that right?

I'm about to remove the rear wheel on my 2014RT. Thanks.

[UtahPete]

2014 rear brakes, wheel and axle are same as 2013.

So, on my 2014 the procedure s/b exactly as shown?

[pegasus1300]

We have had several tires destroyed by clumping dyna beads. Also they do not balance until you are up at highway speed and personally I hate the wobble getting there. Its much better to balance the tire/wheel properly before installing. It only takes a few minutes to do the job right. Yes, a motorcycle wheel takes different equipment or adaptors to balance than a car wheel.

No bike shop here I would trust to put air in a tire let alone balance it. Dyna beads are working fine, I have also used them in my previous 2wheelers with no incident. I don't feel any wobble getting up to speed. Thanks for the warning tho. I do know the shop was very careful to mount my tire with the proper orientation to the valve stem.

[pegasus1300]

Paul,
........not directly related to the Dyna beads, but re the tyre shop not being able to balance.......when I ordered my front and rear tyres from my tyre shop, they suggested I book in at the bike shop on the way home as they could easily do the balance on their equipment. Sure it cost a few bucks, but it was a solution if you want your tyres balanced the normal way and the tyre shop doesn't have the right equipment.

p.s. I didn't do that as the tyre shop said that with the Kuhmos I was buying, they would be very well balanced as long as they were aligned to the valve......plus, I had just ordered Lamont's Balancers.

Pete
Thanks Pete but no reliable bike shop in less then 70 miles,so as much as I can I do my own work.

[BoilerAnimal]

The only difference is the way the brake is mounted. Very similar but instead of being bolted as the old style brakes are it will have a tang, or nub, that is located to position the front part of the brake caliper assembly. You will have to locate the brake on the tang and line up the hole for the axle to slide thru. Not hard, just take your time and take pictures if you want a reference for something before you take it apart.

If you need extra room to slide the wheel in place, you can take the brake pads out and use needle-nose pliers to screw the brake piston in to give you more room.

I also found it easier to back off the alignment bolts for the rear axle by four FULL turns before putting the drive belt on. I match marked the bolts before loosening them and you MUST make the same number of turns on each bolt! DISCLAIMER: YOU RUN THE RISK OF CHANGING THE ALIGNMENT OF YOUR BELT IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY! I did it and nothing changed.

[BoilerAnimal]

Get some PB Blaster penetrating oil. Works the best of any I've tried.

[BoilerAnimal]

I think I jacked mine up before loosening the lower bolt on the shock, then adjusted the jack height to slide the bolt out.

[pegasus1300]

Pete you did release the shock height linkage 1st right? If so then you can jack up the rear end to take pressure off the shock bolt and to get you some room to swing.

[UtahPete]

Pete you did release the shock height linkage 1st right? If so then you can jack up the rear end to take pressure off the shock bolt and to get you some room to swing.

I did, thanks. I ended up putting the front wheels up on ramps, then jacking up the aft end of the frame far enough to get some room to work. Then, had to wait for Jane to come home so she could hold the breaker bar on the bolt head while I used an extended (with a piece of pipe) wrench on the nut end. It finally broke loose with a loud crack! and the rest was simply finding the sweet spot where the load is off the shock bolt and out it came!

Now back to the video to figure out how to remove the caliper .... OOPS, cancel that. Just read BoilerAnimal's post above. I guess with my year / model the caliper bracket has a hole for the axle bolt to go through ... have to study it some more.

[Peteoz]

Pete,

it's probably too late now (I only just saw this, sorry), but here's my (detailed;)) notes from my F3-L rear wheel remove and replace. There might be something you can take out of it for the reinstall.

2016 F3 Limited - REAR WHEEL REMOVE & REPLACE FOR DUMMIES



PLEASE NOTE ......THIS R&R PROCESS IS FOR THE F3 WITH THE NEW REAR WHEEL WITH INTEGRATED HUB, IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE YOUTUBE VIDEOS BY FINLESS AND LAMONSTER (both of which are for the old style wheel with removable hub). IT IS DESIGNED FOR THOSE WITH A GENERAL MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE, BUT LIMITED DETAILED KNOWLEDGE OF HOW THE SPYDER IS PUT TOGETHER.




I installed a Kuhmo KU22 205/55 r15 which has the same rolling diameter as the stock Kenda. I went for a slightly narrower width than stock as I have the stick on aftermarket belt guard and wanted to ensure it did not rub on a new tyre.




Obviously, while I believe these guidelines are relatively complete, I can accept no responsibility for their detailed accuracy. They are intended as a guideline only. Created December 2016......Last Updated June 2017.




BEFORE STARTING, YOU WILL NEED -




1. A bike lift (I used Harbour Freight)
2. 2 x 36mm ring spanners for the axle (or 1 x 36mm spanner and 1 x 36mm socket). Can Am must use Brian Shaw (aka the World's Strongest Man), to tighten their axle and brake caliper nuts while using judicious amounts of yellow locktite. They are on there very tightly (160ft/lbs +/- 10lbs for the axle). How Finless managed to use two short spanners to get the axle undone is beyond me (although, have Finless Bob and Brian Shaw ever been seen together in the same room? ). I used a long 36mm spanner and a 36mm 3/4" socket head with a loooong 3/4" breaker bar. An addendum to this is that prior mid 2014, there was only a torque specification of around 80ft/lbs, which explains how some people can remove the axle nuts so easily.
3. Assorted sockets/extender and open/ring spanners.
4. Torque wrench (up to 150 ft/lbs)
5. White lithium grease (WD40 and others make this)
6. I (and others) have found that a liberal amount of blue locktite will work just as well as the recommended yellow when reassembling.
7. Just in case, check for a bearing shop in your vicinity. The "o" ring in my wheel was missing some chunks of rubber, even though this was the first time the wheel had been disassembled, and others have also found this. The Spyder "o" ring is too big for most auto shops to carry, but most bearing shops will have them. Hopefully you won't even have to worry about this.
8. Set aside an afternoon if this is your first removal, and a morning to replace, as you are bound to be scratching your head from time to time. After the first one you would be looking at a couple of hours to remove and the same to reinstall.


Addendum 15th June 2017.....With the release of Lamonster's Wheel Balancers, purchasing and installing them at the time of wheel removal will remove any need for the "tyre guy" to balance your wheels (Step 23), unless you are reinstalling Kendas, as they can be so far out of balance/round that they overwhelm the Wheel Balancer.





WHEEL REMOVAL -




1. Position your bike lift toward the rear of the chassis bar, being careful not to crush the exhaust springs.
2. Place F3 in neutral, park brake on.
3. Remove the axle covers, cotter pin and break the axle nut (bloody tight). You will need a 36mm spanner and a 36mm socket with breaker bar or looooong handle for leverage.
4. Remove the rear suspension nut from the shock.
5. Lift Spyder up/down minutely using your preferred lift equipment until there is no pressure on the rear shock and the bolt will slide out fairly easily with just finger pressure (this allows the swing arm to drop when you jack the Spyder up, which allows you access to the top brake caliper bolt as well as making belt removal and reinstallation easier and eliminating the need to realign your belt)
6. Lift Spyder further until the rear wheel is barely off the ground and chock the rear wheel (just for stability while breaking the caliper nuts.....) This will expose the upper brake caliper nut.
7. Break the brake caliper nuts (bloody tight). You will need a socket and extender to get at the upper the brake caliper nut.
8. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate). Be very careful with this sensor. This is one of the 3 (one on each wheel), that control your ABS as well as being used, in conjunction with the other two wheel sensors, for traction control and brake distribution by Nanny. If you damage this sensor, or don't get all the shims back in, you WILL get a "Limp" mode from Nanny on startup and may have to replace the unit.
9. Turn the Ignition on, release the park brake, then turn the ignition off. Cover your ears while it beeps at you for 20 seconds.
10. Take lots of photographs of the pieces of equipment you are about to remove to ensure you can put every shim/washer/piece back in the correct place.
11. Tape up the axle adjusters thoroughly with duct tape on both sides of the swing arm ( around an 8" piece, along the top of the arm, over the back and underneath the arm) so the components don't fall out and to keep the halves and bolt in place to save having to recalibrate after wheel reinstall.....or worse, have the pieces fall into the swing arm.
12. Gradually slide the belt off the rear sprocket. (mine came off easily)
13. Put a cloth or tape inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)
14. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
15. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)
16. Remove the rear wheel chock and lower the Spyder until the wheel touches the ground.
17. Undo the axle nut completely.
18. Lift the Spyder slightly until there is minimal pressure on the wheel/tyre. The axle should just slide out from the left using hand pressure if you have the wheel at the right height.
19. Lift the Spyder to maximum and roll the wheel out. You may have to tip the Spyder forward to do this. Be verrrrry careful not to overbalance the Spyder (I nearly did)
20. Remove the metal bushings from each side of the wheel. (if they haven't already fallen out when you withdrew the axle)
21. Remove the disc from the wheel. The bolts are, again, very tight and you need a socket to do this as a spanner will not fit in the recess. Loosen opposing bolts gradually (I.e. Don't just undo in a circle)
22. Turn the wheel over and lay flat (the wheel, not you!) with the sprocket facing you. Pull upwards while wiggling (the sprocket, not you!) and the sprocket will lift out. Mark the sprocket to wheel position to ensure you don't hide the tyre valve behind a sprocket cross piece when reassembling. Remove the 5 rubber dampers. Check your "O" ring for damage (mine was missing a couple of chunks for some unknown reason.)
23. Take the wheel "as is" to your tyre guy. Watch the tyre guy's expression as he comes face to face with the Spyder wheel with integrated hub for the first time. There will be either a look of consternation, or a look of "I know how to do this". They will most likely not be able to balance the tyre as there is a concern that the conical fastener on their balancer may damage the bearing in the hub. You could have it static balanced at a bike shop (and some car/truck tyre shops do have static balancers)....... or align the tyre dot to the valve (the tyre guys should do this automatically) and remove any existing weights. This should work on good quality rear tyres (i.e. not on Kenda or Arachnid), and certainly worked for me. If this doesn't work, some have installed Dyna Beads. Ride-on also works for some, but is disliked by many tyre shops as it is messy when replacing the tyre. The choice is yours, but no responsibility is accepted for your choice.. Check the tyre pressure as the tyre guys will pump it to around 35psi, as they do for most car tyres. You don't need that much as the Spyder is much lighter than a car. I am running very comfortably at 23psi and I am a big guy.
N.B. The purchase of Lamonster's Rear Wheel Balancers will negate the need for any of the balancing mentioned above, unless you are reinstalling Kendas, which can overpower the Wheel Balancers due to the sheer amount of out-of-balance that they can experience.




WHEEL REINSTALL -




1. Reinstall the rubber dampers and gently wiggle the sprocket back on to the wheel as per line up marks, along with white lithium greased "O" ring. Make sure it is fully seated.
2. Reinstall the disc on the wheel. (Use blue locktite and ensure you tighten opposing bolts as you go. TORQUE to 63ft/lbs.
3. Reinstall the bushings into the wheel each side.
4. Lift the Spyder and manoeuver the wheel back in.
5. Lower the Spyder until the axle hole aligns with the swing arm holes.
6. Ensure the disc caliper backing plate is in position for the axle to slide through (to save having to remove the wheel after you have installed it because you find a metal backing plate lying on the ground.....don't ask me how I know ). Hang the backing plate from the stud on the swing arm while you slide the axle through the wheel, then you can raise the plate to slip the axle through the plate hole.
7. Slide the axle through the swing arm, the wheel caliper backing plate and opposing swing arm. (It should slide fairly easily if you have you bike lift at the correct height).
8. Chock the wheel as far forward as possible while tightening the axle to ensure you keep your belt tension.
9. Reinstall the axle nuts and TORQUE to 160 foot/lbs. (you can get away with 150lbs according to the workshop manual).
10. Reinstall the cotter pin and axle covers.
11. Lift the Spyder until the wheel is off the ground to allow access to the upper brake caliper bolt hole.
12. Separate the pads in the brake caliper if necessary and slide the brake caliper over the disc (it's tight fit, make sure the pads are separated in the caliper) and hand tighten the caliper bolts (use loctite).
13. Reinstall the sensor, ensuring shims are in the correct spot (use loctite.)
14. Slide the belt back on the sprocket (it helps to rotate the wheel)
15. Lower the Spyder to stability (meaning the wheel is just touching the ground).
16. Remove the axle adjuster tape.
17. TORQUE the brake caliper bolts to 77 ft/lbs
18. Lower/Lift the Spyder until the shock bolt holes align and insert bolt.
19. TORQUE nut to 35ft/lbs(use loctite).
20. Press hard on the brake pedal with the ignition still off to reset the pads and ABS.
21. Lift the Spyder rear wheel off the ground. Select first gear and check the belt for any side to side movement while the tyre is rotating. Brake and try in reverse. The belt should not move from side to side. If it does, you need a belt alignment adjustment. The belt should be 1mm to 5mm gap from the sprocket.
22. Lower the Spyder.
23. Test ride......hopefully with no nanny messages. I had none, following these guidelines.Animal's post above. I guess with my year / model the caliper bracket has a hole for the axle bolt to go through ... have to study it some more.[/QUOTE]

[Peteoz]

No problem mate. Now just make a video of it :joke: , preferably with Claire Holt in a starring role :ohyea:[/QUOTE]

Mate, I had never heard of Claire Holt before today.....she has certainly been flying under the Aussie radar. :shocked: :thumbup: . I will contact her immediately a make her an offer she can't refuse for the starring role in "Release the Axle". :D

Pete

[UtahPete]

WHEEL REMOVAL -

6. Lift Spyder further until the rear wheel is barely off the ground and chock the rear wheel (just for stability while breaking the caliper nuts.....) This will expose the upper brake caliper nut.
7. Break the brake caliper nuts (bloody tight). You will need a socket and extender to get at the upper the brake caliper nut.
8. Unbolt and remove the sensor next to the caliper(remember where each shim goes - I had 4, all between the sensor and the caliper mount plate). Be very careful with this sensor. This is one of the 3 (one on each wheel), that control your ABS as well as being used, in conjunction with the other two wheel sensors, for traction control and brake distribution by Nanny. If you damage this sensor, or don't get all the shims back in, you WILL get a "Limp" mode from Nanny on startup and may have to replace the unit.

13. Put a cloth or tape inside the wheel to avoid damaging it when the caliper comes off. (Just in case)
14. Remove the brake caliper bolts and the slide the caliper off the disc (tight fit) and bungy to the frame or exhaust to keep the load off it.
15. Avoid touching the brake pedal while the caliper is off as you could create nanny messages when you start the Spyder......which can be fairly easily rectified....... but.....)

WHEEL REINSTALL -

4. Lift the Spyder and manoeuver the wheel back in.
5. Lower the Spyder until the axle hole aligns with the swing arm holes.
6. Ensure the disc caliper backing plate is in position for the axle to slide through (to save having to remove the wheel after you have installed it because you find a metal backing plate lying on the ground.....don't ask me how I know ). Hang the backing plate from the stud on the swing arm while you slide the axle through the wheel, then you can raise the plate to slip the axle through the plate hole.
7. Slide the axle through the swing arm, the wheel caliper backing plate and opposing swing arm. (It should slide fairly easily if you have you bike lift at the correct height).
[/QUOTE]

Pete, I gather that the caliper is detached from the backing plate, then there is a bolt holding the backing plate in place? I've attached some pics to ensure my setup is the same as the one you're describing.

153455153456

Thanks.

[Peteoz]

Pete, I gather that the caliper is detached from the backing plate, then there is a bolt holding the backing plate in place? I've attached some pics to ensure my setup is the same as the one you're describing.

153455153456

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

From what I remember, there was no bolt holding the backing plate on mine, Pete. There's a lip that allows you to seat the plate while you run the axle through, then once you tighten the axle the plate is held firmly in place, and you fasten the caliper to it. Of course, I forgot to feed the axle through the plate before torquing the axle.:shocked:

Pete

[UtahPete]

Pete, I gather that the caliper is detached from the backing plate, then there is a bolt holding the backing plate in place? I've attached some pics to ensure my setup is the same as the one you're describing.Thanks.
From what I remember, there was no bolt holding the backing plate on mine, Pete. There's a lip that allows you to seat the plate while you run the axle through, then once you tighten the axle the plate is held firmly in place, and you fasten the caliper to it. Of course, I forgot to feed the axle through the plate before torquing the axle.:shocked:[/QUOTE]

Right you are!

[UtahPete]

(Later model rear brake assembly...) very similar but instead of being bolted as the old style brakes are it will have a tang, or nub, that is located to position the front part of the brake caliper assembly. You will have to locate the brake on the tang and line up the hole for the axle to slide thru. Not hard, just take your time and take pictures if you want a reference for something before you take it apart.

Thanks for this. What I discovered is that my Brembo rear brake caliper assembly is bolted to a separate plate, which has an axle hole and the tang referred to above. The caliper assembly needs to be unbolted from the backing plate. The backing plate itself is sandwiched between the wheel assembly and the swing-arm and comes loose once the axle is removed. In this picture, with the axle and wheel removed, the backing plate is hanging down from the tang.


153486

[BoilerAnimal]

Yep, something like that! It's been a while and I've slept quite a bit since I did ours, and it wasn't in a Holiday Inn Express! 😜

[UtahPete]

Yep, something like that! It's been a while and I've slept quite a bit since I did ours, and it wasn't in a Holiday Inn Express! 😜

Not sure what you mean by the Holiday Inn reference, but I gather you've slept okay since doing this job...?

Anyway, got it all back together this morning, fired it up, watched the wheel spin and the belt stayed aligned. Had VSS and ABS and 'brake failure' lights, but once I got it down on the ground and backed out of the garage, they all cleared up by themselves. So, I can breathe again!

[Peteoz]

Not sure what you mean by the Holiday Inn reference, but I gather you've slept okay since doing this job...?

Anyway, got it all back together this morning, fired it up, watched the wheel spin and the belt stayed aligned. Had VSS and ABS and 'brake failure' lights, but once I got it down on the ground and backed out of the garage, they all cleared up by themselves. So, I can breathe again!

Well done, Pete.....you worry and you worry and you worry that you have left out a step, or accidentally bent something, or........and you have buggered (technical term;)) your Spyder.....but with the help of the members here, it usually turns out OK. :thumbup:

Pete

[BoilerAnimal]

The Holiday Inn reference was because of their commercials whereby a person who had stayed at one the night before was able to do something far beyond their normal capabilities and training. The catch phrase, after being asked "Are you a (expert at whatever they had done)?" was "No, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night".

[pegasus1300]

The Holiday Inn reference was because of their commercials whereby a person who had stayed at one the night before was able to do something far beyond their normal capabilities and training. The catch phrase, after being asked "Are you a (expert at whatever they had done)?" was "No, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night".
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: Thanks for the explanation I was wondering about that myself.

[Eviltwin]

I know I'm going to have to replace the rear tire on my new to me 2010 RT-S. Looking online, Tirerack has 4 tires in the 205/55R15 size, all high performance summer. They have the Yoko for 90 with about 12 to ship it to me. They also have a couple of Kumho's and a Dunlap Direzza about the same price. Dunlap has a 420 wear vs. 300 for the Yoko and A vs. AA for traction. Both are symmetrical tread designs. Would the traction be the deciding factor in this type of usage?

Thanks,
Bob

[UtahPete]

I know I'm going to have to replace the rear tire on my new to me 2010 RT-S. Looking online, Tirerack has 4 tires in the 205/55R15 size, all high performance summer. They have the Yoko for 90 with about 12 to ship it to me. They also have a couple of Kumho's and a Dunlap Direzza about the same price. Dunlap has a 420 wear vs. 300 for the Yoko and A vs. AA for traction. Both are symmetrical tread designs. Would the traction be the deciding factor in this type of usage? Thanks,Bob

This is the wrong thread for this question. There are plenty more threads about choice of tire, rather than how to replace it, which is what this is.

[Eviltwin]

This is the wrong thread for this question. There are plenty more threads about choice of tire, rather than how to replace it, which is what this is.

Was that really helpful? :sour:

If you read the whole thread, there are quite a few posts about tire choice.

[UtahPete]

Was that really helpful? :sour: If you read the whole thread, there are quite a few posts about tire choice.

I think it was, which is why I posted it.

[Peteoz]

Was that really helpful? :sour:

If you read the whole thread, there are quite a few posts about tire choice.

The thread is already 4 pages long, Eviltwin, and the question of tyre choice always adds plenty of responses which will muddy the tyre remove and replace thread’s waters a little, which is why Utahpete asked if the question would be better in another (or its own) thread. It’s a fair call.;)

Pete

[HankD]

The thread is already 4 pages long, Eviltwin, and the question of tyre choice always adds plenty of responses which will muddy the tyre replacement thread’s waters a little, which is why Utahpete asked if the question would be better in another (or its own) thread. It’s a fair call.;)

Pete

Yes, likewise for threads on oil types, who does/does not wave, and posts concerning Bacon :shocked:

[Peteoz]

Yes, likewise for threads on oil types, who does/does not wave, and posts concerning Bacon :shocked:

:thumbup::D:D

[pegasus1300]

I know I'm going to have to replace the rear tire on my new to me 2010 RT-S. Looking online, Tirerack has 4 tires in the 205/55R15 size, all high performance summer. They have the Yoko for 90 with about 12 to ship it to me. They also have a couple of Kumho's and a Dunlap Direzza about the same price. Dunlap has a 420 wear vs. 300 for the Yoko and A vs. AA for traction. Both are symmetrical tread designs. Would the traction be the deciding factor in this type of usage?

Thanks,
Bob

Try this instead: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?108712-205-60-15-on-rear-of-RT&highlight=rear+tire.

There are multiplicities of other ones out there. Rather then the DIY forum search in the maintenance forums. I just went to my local tire store and asked him for his best tire in the correct size,gave him the wheel and he mounted the tire.

[Eviltwin]

Try this instead: <a href="http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?108712-205-60-15-on-rear-of-RT&amp;highlight=rear+tire" target="_blank">http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?108712-205-60-15-on-rear-of-RT&amp;highlight=rear+tire</a>.

There are multiplicities of other ones out there. Rather then the DIY forum search in the maintenance forums. I just went to my local tire store and asked him for his best tire in the correct size,gave him the wheel and he mounted the tire.


Thank You. I've been doing quite a bit of searching since I need to replace this tire before I can get the bike inspected and you can nuts trying to figure out which one to go with. I've found that it is better to do a straight google search and then look back in these threads then it is to try and use the search function at the top of the page. The results are generally more meaningful.

Unfortunately, it seems like some folks would rather be rude and condescending rather than helpful. I'm sure tires as well as many other topics have been beaten to death in the past, but it takes about the same number of keystrokes to be considerate and point new folks in the right direction as to just shut them down.