Trunk Spring

[markusj]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=295&stc=1&d=1225951711

[markusj]

Did this in 1 minute and no drilling.

[markusj]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=296&stc=1&d=1225952321


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=297&stc=1&d=1225952427

[markusj]

Sorry so many post, I am still learning how this works.
Mark

[Arachnid]

Please give an explanation of what you've done.
How is the spring held on then if you didn't drill a hole and put a screw through the bottom plate? Pictures unclear.:dontknow:
Is it just clipped around the edge?
Thanks,
Mike

[markusj]

I loosened the bolt on left side (standing in front of spyder), there is a lip that slips down into platic spacer. I rolled spring around it and then tightened bolt back down.
Mark.

[Arachnid]

Oh, okay,
Now if I can find a spring like that I'll be in business.
Maybe Lowes has one?
Thanks for the info. The thing that bothered me with the other spring mod. was the fact that ya had to drill a hole for the screw to hold it.

Mike :thumbup:

[markusj]

Ya I felt the same way about drilling. That spring I just happened to have laying around in my. I am going to go to a local hardware store and get one a little stiffer.
Thanks Mark

[Arachnid]

I loosened the bolt on left side (standing in front of spyder), there is a lip that slips down into platic spacer. I rolled spring around it and then tightened bolt back down.
Mark.
Hmm, my bolt just spins must be a nut underneath the trunk some where.

Mike:dontknow:

[jwfranklin]

Hmm, my bolt just spins must be a nut underneath the trunk some where.

Mike:dontknow:
There is, pull the panel off that exposes your coolant bottle, the panel behind the latch just pull at both corners, pull right off. Than you can get to the nut. kinda hard to get to but can be done, I used a pair of locking needle nose pliers.

Wayne

[markusj]

Ya, I have a short 10mm wrench that I was able to get in behind, but Wayne is rite it is kinda of tight to get to.
Mark

[bone crusher]

Can someone post step by step for how to put spring on the trunk? I, too, have this problem as I have the trunk liner...when I push in and turn the key ccw, it clicks, but doesn't unlock...I have to pull it with my hand while the key is being turned...this is really annoying...

If someone could list specifics of materials being used and how it's done, that would be a great addition to the board and to the rest of us who have no idea what to do...

Thanks in advance...

[Dyno824]

If you just play with the adjustment the trunk will pop up when you turn the key.No spring needed ,same with seat. Who knows maybe i just got lucky. Good luck :cheers:

[markusj]

There is, pull the panel off that exposes your coolant bottle, the panel behind the latch just pull at both corners, pull right off. Than you can get to the nut. kinda hard to get to but can be done, I used a pair of locking needle nose pliers.

Wayne
Wayne, did you do the samething I did? I didn't think you could full around with the adjustment to make it stay open?

P.S. Saw a cool BH 502 ci on a ride this weekend over to Morro Bay (California Central Coast) this weekend. Took pics with my phone I'll try and post them later.
What size engines on your BH's?
Mark

[NancysToy]

If you just play with the adjustment the trunk will pop up when you turn the key.No spring needed ,same with seat. Who knows maybe i just got lucky. Good luck :cheers:
Several of us here did this, too, but eventually the gasket took a set, and it no longer "popped". Repeated adjustment just compressed the gasket more. I prefer to put the popper spring on the lid. You do have to drill a hole, but it is plastic quick, and easy, and the nut is then accessible. The other end of the spring hits on the metal latch plate then, too, instead of the soft plastic of the lid. While you're in there, consider rigging an emergency trunk release. Very easy to lock the keys in the trunk if you have the popper spring. Ask my wife how happy I was about that when she did it two hours from home.
-Scotty

[Spyderwoman3]

I loosened the bolt on left side (standing in front of spyder), there is a lip that slips down into platic spacer. I rolled spring around it and then tightened bolt back down.
Mark.
Your spring idea was great! Yesterday, I bought one at the hardware store for $1.19. At first the bolt spun around and then I realized I had to access the nut underneath to loosen the bolt. Had to loosen both bolts to raise it enough to fit the spring under the lip. I'd advise people to test the alignment several times before completely tightening the bolt. It works great. Such a simple thing eliminates the problem of having to hold the key in the ignition at the same time as pulling on the trunk lid. Hard to do while holding something in your hand. Thanks, Spyderwoman

[effgjamis]

....NancyToys.....
While you're in there, consider rigging an emergency trunk release


Any Instuctions available?? I thought I saw it somewhere.

Thanks for the assist

[jwfranklin]

Wayne, did you do the samething I did? I didn't think you could full around with the adjustment to make it stay open?

P.S. Saw a cool BH 502 ci on a ride this weekend over to Morro Bay (California Central Coast) this weekend. Took pics with my phone I'll try and post them later.
What size engines on your BH's?
Mark


That was Dyno824 who did the adjustment. I did pretty much the same as you.
My Boss Hoss bike has a 350 smallblock with cam kit, 385 hp
My trike has a custom engine a 383, stroked 350, with several other extra's 475 hp.

Wayne

[Arachnid]

The more I think about it the more I think I will try a version of this.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3799/cobbedlatchmod1vt9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I got it here: http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7341&hl=Trunk+Latch

Mike

[Big Arm]

After bjt posted this, I also did mine like he did. In another post, he also stated he used the spring off of a unistrut spring nut, which I also had and used. I did this install several months ago, and haven't had to do any adjustments to it yet. This works great with the electrical solenoid that I also installed that pulls back the latching mechanism.

[markusj]

I didn't see this one yet. I like it. The one I did just was super easy.:thumbup:
Mark

[dltang]

After bjt posted this, I also did mine like he did. In another post, he also stated he used the spring off of a unistrut spring nut, which I also had and used. I did this install several months ago, and haven't had to do any adjustments to it yet. This works great with the electrical solenoid that I also installed that pulls back the latching mechanism.

Yup, he even finally got mine on a couple months ago. I love it.

[bjt]

The more I think about it the more I think I will try a version of this.
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/3799/cobbedlatchmod1vt9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I got it here: http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7341&hl=Trunk+Latch

Mike


Yea, that's mine. I did it that way mostly because I had three of those springs sitting on my toolbox and I had many various sized washers sitting there too and I found two that worked. It was a zero dollar mod and its been working great for me for three or four months now. I also posted the info on SpyderLovers. Here's the link along with full details. (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6429)

[bone crusher]

BJT,

You are a wealth of information...this is simply genius! If I were to go to ACE or Home Depot, what's the best way to figure out the size of the spring so I don't get the wrong size?

[bjt]

BJT,

You are a wealth of information...this is simply genius! If I were to go to ACE or Home Depot, what's the best way to figure out the size of the spring so I don't get the wrong size?


Hmmm.... I'm not sure what size spring to get from a hardware store. Like BigArm said, I had salvaged the spring from a Unistrut Spring Nut (http://www.unistrut.com/Browse/cat_pg.php?P=S00_Ch_Nut) like the P1006 thru P1010 one. It seemed to be a good length and provided the proper spring compression to lift the trunk just enough to clear the latch pin. My local Home Depot sometimes carries those exact spring nuts and yours might also, if you wanted to look at them.

If you happen to have a friend, relative or aquaintence who is an electrician or other tradesman, they could probably just give you one. Many times, electricians just pull the springs off of the spring nuts and throw them out as they can sometimes get in the way when you are trying to put the stuff together and adjust it.

[ataDude]

Home Depot carries a package of three-four springs which fit fine. $3.00 +/- Not that many to choose from... can't miss them.

.


Hmmm.... I'm not sure what size spring to get from a hardware store. Like BigArm said, I had salvaged the spring from a Unistrut Spring Nut (http://www.unistrut.com/Browse/cat_pg.php?P=S00_Ch_Nut) like the P1006 thru P1010 one. It seemed to be a good length and provided the proper spring compression to lift the trunk just enough to clear the latch pin. My local Home Depot sometimes carries those exact spring nuts and yours might also, if you wanted to look at them.

If you happen to have a friend, relative or aquaintence who is an electrician or other tradesman, they could probably just give you one. Many times, electricians just pull the springs off of the spring nuts and throw them out as they can sometimes get in the way when you are trying to put the stuff together and adjust it.

[retread]

I must have tossed 1000's of those springs out, Unistrut has been the standard for over 40 years. Now I wish I'd kept some.

[92lt]

Why is it neccessary to have the trunk "pop" open? On my new SE5, I just turn the key to the trunk position and leave the key in that position. Then I just lift the trunk lid open and later close it when done. Finally, I turn the key back to "off" and remove the key.

Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?

[NancysToy]

Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?
It sure is on ours. Spring loaded to return both to center and up to the ignition position. The popper spring is just a convenience.
-Scotty

[bone crusher]

Excellent...

I'll have to find a spring and hook it up as per the instructions above...such a great idea...I was wondering why it wasn't working anymore...I figured the trunk liner was doing something funny but adjusting that did nothing...

Off to home depot I go this weekend...

[bjt]

Why is it neccessary to have the trunk "pop" open? On my new SE5, I just turn the key to the trunk position and leave the key in that position. Then I just lift the trunk lid open and later close it when done. Finally, I turn the key back to "off" and remove the key.

Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?



Maybe the key staying in the trunk unlatch position is a feature on newer Spyders. My key springs back to the center position from both the trunk and seat unlatch positions.

[NancysToy]

Maybe the key staying in the trunk unlatch position is a feature on newer Spyders. My key springs back to the center position from both the trunk and seat unlatch positions.
Or maybe his is faulty. I would check another SE5 of similar vintage. Could be something loose or broken.

An alternate location for the popper spring is shown below. The spring must be big enough to clear the bolt on the latch plate that it sits over. I used a tapered spring I had lying around, but a straight one of the right diameter would work.