Wheel adapter orders!

[Spydyr]

I would be willing to take orders for wheel adapters If we can come up with a general concensus on which adapter would best suit the "do it your selfers" needs.
I mention this because the stock wheel studs are 1 1/4"s long. I made my adapters 1" think and had to clearance the wheels to go over the factory studs.http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1251.jpg
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1252.jpg
The two bolt patterns are not compatible in a one piece adapter so I only used three studs on a 5 X 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1253.jpg
A two piece design would allow the use of 5 studs but the adapter would have to be at least 1 1/2"s thick pushing the centerline of the wheel further from the pivot point of the ball joints.

[sleepman]

I'm certainly interested. My .02 is that the 5 lug would probably be a sturdier option. Any ideas on what we'd be looking at time and price wise?

[Spydyr]

I'm certainly interested. My .02 is that the 5 lug would probably be a sturdier option. Any ideas on what we'd be looking at time and price wise?
Time wise probably 3 to 4 weeks. As far as five lugs go, you still only have three holding the adapter on and the more I ride mine the more I'm convinced that the thinner the adapter the better. I know most people aren't going to want to machine their wheels for clearance but I'm going to try a 3/4" adapter. The other option would be to shorten the factory studs but that would require replacing them to put the stock wheels back on.

[Lamonster]

As far as five lugs go, you still only have three holding the adapter on and the more I ride mine the more I'm convinced that the thinner the adapter the better. I know most people aren't going to want to machine their wheels for clearance but I'm going to try a 3/4" adapter.

Why is that? :dontknow:

[Spydyr]

The factory 14X5 wheel has a lot of backspacing for all the wider the wheel is, something like 4 inches. This allows the centerline of the wheel to pivot on the same axis as the ball joints. With a 16X7, front wheel drive, wheel, the standard backspacing is about 5 1/4 inches. With a 1 1/4" adapter the back spacing is the same but you have two more inches of tire sticking out. This makes the center line of the tire piovt outside the axis of the balljoint. Thus, the farther from the balljoint the centerline of the tire, the more you pivot in an arc. The spyder has torque sensitive power steering and the more of an arc the tire has to pivot, the more effort it takes to move it. I'm not sure how the computer is going to react but I can feel a difference in the steering. I not sure how to describe it but it doesn't seem as forgiving on uneven roads.

[DragonSpyder]

I'm not saying this will help but you may want to double check the Toe if you are having issues on uneven roads. The more the wheels are Toed out the more wandering on uneven roads. Mine steers easier and tracks straighter with a bit of Toe-in.

That being said the more offset the rims are the more the road surfaces will interfere with steering and straight line tracking. Maybe we need to look for other rim alternatives?

[AMTJIM]

If I remember right, the farther the center line of the rim from the pivot point, the harder it is on the spindles and axles...stress wise. It starts to stress the components dramatically the further out you get.

[steven888]

Hey spydyr, So, Have you come up with a solution to the adaptors for do it yourselfers? I would like to know so I could plan on getting this set up going. Let me know

[Spydyr]

Hey spydyr, So, Have you come up with a solution to the adaptors for do it yourselfers? I would like to know so I could plan on getting this set up going. Let me know
Are you going to run fenders?
Are you able to clearance a set of wheels to clear the factory studs?

[Spydyr]

I'm not saying this will help but you may want to double check the Toe if you are having issues on uneven roads. The more the wheels are Toed out the more wandering on uneven roads. Mine steers easier and tracks straighter with a bit of Toe-in.

That being said the more offset the rims are the more the road surfaces will interfere with steering and straight line tracking. Maybe we need to look for other rim alternatives?
The problem with another rim that might have more backspacing is rubbing the side panels when you turn the wheels. I have the fendrs tucked as tight to the tires as possible and I can't fit my finger between the fender and side panels at full turn.

[joeythebarber]

Do you think a 17 or 18 inch rim would work??

[Firefly]

I would be willing to take orders for wheel adapters If we can come up with a general concensus on which adapter would best suit the "do it your selfers" needs.
I mention this because the stock wheel studs are 1 1/4"s long. I made my adapters 1" think and had to clearance the wheels to go over the factory studs.http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1251.jpg
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1252.jpg
The two bolt patterns are not compatible in a one piece adapter so I only used three studs on a 5 X 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc328/buckylaine/IMG_1253.jpg
A two piece design would allow the use of 5 studs but the adapter would have to be at least 1 1/2"s thick pushing the centerline of the wheel further from the pivot point of the ball joints.

So a person has to hone those holes out in our rims?

Why not 5 holes?

[Spydyr]

I switched to a 1 3/8 inch thick spacer which allows any wheel to clear the factory studs.

[altonk]

i put 15 x 7 fronts on my spyder so the wheels and tires would match all around. They are 1 3/4" thick and the wheel offset is 4 inches.

This does add some scrub radius. Coming from racing karts with extreme scrub radius it's not that radical on the spyder. It does a couple things to the handling. It provides a lot more feedback. Probably too much for many. also any asymeteric braking forces are sent back to the steering. You have to stay focused while driving. but the upside is that it is much more responsive.
with the sway bar penske racing shocks and r compund 225 45 r 15 hankook tires all the way around it really handles like a sport machine now. Understeer is pretty much non existant the inside wheel lifts before you lose dry traction. I still can't get rid of all the oversteer under power.

I've had no problems with the steering DPS is just fine with it or VSS it seems a little more inclined to intercede around 90 corners from a stop but i shouldn't have been going that fast anyway :ohyea: so really no problems.


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16684

[altonk]

this guy will do wheel adapters from the spyder to any wheel pattern you want for a hundred bucks a piece

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/about.html (http://www.motorsport-tech.com/about.html)


he will do one or two piece. He did two piece for me for a 3 lug platinum atitdue wheel he had that was very inexpensive due to the nonstandard lug pattern.

they worked out great