fogging oil

[czdaryle]

Okay I know you guys are getting sick of me asking this stuff on storing the spyder, but it is my first time doing this and I want to do it right, as right as I can. I want to use fogging oil and I read where you should do it in two spots. One is when it is running spray it in the intake. I take it I just remove the air filter and spray it. Second is remove spark plugs and spray in each. The part I don't get here is I read where you want to move the cyclinders by hand(flywheel) to get the whole cyclinder coated. How do I do this with the spyder? Thanks again for any help you can give me...winter is ah comin'

[NancysToy]

Okay I know you guys are getting sick of me asking this stuff on storing the spyder, but it is my first time doing this and I want to do it right, as right as I can. I want to use fogging oil and I read where you should do it in two spots. One is when it is running spray it in the intake. I take it I just remove the air filter and spray it. Second is remove spark plugs and spray in each. The part I don't get here is I read where you want to move the cylinders by hand(flywheel) to get the whole cylinder coated. How do I do this with the spyder? Thanks again for any help you can give me...winter is ah comin'
I use fogging oil in my bikes, but I do not spray in the intake. For a two-stroke outboard, it is important to do this because the oil in the fuel lubricates the lower end. When they are not running, this diluted oil runs off the bearings and corrosion can set in. A four-stroke engine like the Spyder is less critical. Turning over the engine will spread the oil over the entire cyclinder. An outboard has an exposed flywheel, for the Spyder you could use the starter briefly.

I use an alternate method, which has worked well for my storing 20+ bikes each winter. I run down to the gas station and fill the tank, after adding the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer. This does two things, fills the tank completely to reduce condensation, and gets the engine hot. Immediately on my return, I pull the plugs and spray in a couple of good squirts of fogging oil. Usually it will form a vapor in the hot cylinder, coating everything. You might see this vapor come out of the plug hole. Then put the plugs back in and do not turn over the engine. I feel turning it over can expose fresh metal, and cause the rings to scrape some of the fogging oil off the cylinder walls. In the Spring, I clean the plugs if necessary, and start the beasts. They will show oil smoke for a while.
-Scotty

[czdaryle]

thanks Scotty...knew I could count on you to answer. I want to thank you for all the help you have given me...it is much appreciated

[Rokonman]

I use fogging oil in my bikes, but I do not spray in the intake. For a two-stroke outboard, it is important to do this because the oil in the fuel lubricates the lower end. When they are not running, this diluted oil runs off the bearings and corrosion can set in. A four-stroke engine like the Spyder is less critical. Turning over the engine will spread the oil over the entire cyclinder. An outboard has an exposed flywheel, for the Spyder you could use the starter briefly.

I use an alternate method, which has worked well for my storing 20+ bikes each winter. I run down to the gas station and fill the tank, after adding the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer. This does two things, fills the tank completely to reduce condensation, and gets the engine hot. Immediately on my return, I pull the plugs and spray in a couple of good squirts of fogging oil. Usually it will form a vapor in the hot cylinder, coating everything. You might see this vapor come out of the plug hole. Then put the plugs back in and do not turn over the engine. I feel turning it over can expose fresh metal, and cause the rings to scrape some of the fogging oil off the cylinder walls. In the Spring, I clean the plugs if necessary, and start the beasts. They will show oil smoke for a while.
-Scotty

I watched a friend change the spark plugs on his Spyder and I don't think I could get the body panels, air cleaner box etc off in less than an hour. The engine would cool down. Have you actually done this on your Spyder? There has to be a better way...

[bjt]

I watched a friend change the spark plugs on his Spyder and I don't think I could get the body panels, air cleaner box etc off in less than an hour. The engine would cool down. Have you actually done this on your Spyder? There has to be a better way...

You could let the Spyder run with the necessary body panels off. I might not ride around town with them off, or maybe I would. http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-020.gif I don't think it would really matter.

[NancysToy]

I will admit that the Spyder offers some challenges in this department compared to a coventional motorcycle. You could let it idle while removing the panels (which actually only take a few minutes) like BJT said, or you could remove the panels then ride it around the block to warm it back up. Fogging oil will also work in a cold engine, but not as readily. Use more. I am not going to fog the Spyder. Like my BMW RT, I will ride every chance I get during the winter, so I will be content to put it on the battery charger, and ride it periodically. The most the RT ever sat was two months while the driveway was iced in. Gotta get a bigger windshield and some heat installed, though. It's getting chilly.
-Scotty

[2+1]

Okay I know you guys are getting sick of me asking this stuff on storing the spyder, but it is my first time doing this and I want to do it right, as right as I can. I want to use fogging oil and I read where you should do it in two spots. One is when it is running spray it in the intake. I take it I just remove the air filter and spray it. Second is remove spark plugs and spray in each. The part I don't get here is I read where you want to move the cyclinders by hand(flywheel) to get the whole cyclinder coated. How do I do this with the spyder? Thanks again for any help you can give me...winter is ah comin'
The other way you could move the cylinders is this:

With the spark plugs out and disconnected from the plug wires all you have to do is tap the starter button a few times to cycle the cylinders. It will not start without the plugs. :2thumbs:

[NancysToy]

The other way you could move the cylinders is this:

With the spark plugs out and disconnected from the plug wires all you have to do is tap the starter button a few times to cycle the cylinders. It will not start without the plugs. :2thumbs:
If you do this, be sure to put the plugs back in the wires, and ground the plugs first. Otherwise you could burn out the coils or an ignition module.
-Scotty

[hondaman]

be careful with the plugs out and bumping over or turning engine over with the key on ,you can get a spark from the plug wire without the plug and the fuel in the cylinder will start a fire.I have seen 2 cars burn down because of this.Make shure you unplug the coil pack or whatever it has to cause any spark...I would know better but im still waiting on my spyder.

[Greg H.]

Man! I feel for you fine folks that have to store your rides for the winter. :shocked: I mean; I know in this area, there will be some days/weeks in Jan/Feb that won't really allow for good riding since we can get occassional icy conditions & snow (very rarely), and just plain cold. But, I'll be out in the garage cranking it up, and getting it out every single chance I get.

[2+1]

If you do this, be sure to put the plugs back in the wires, and ground the plugs first. Otherwise you could burn out the coils or an ignition module.
-Scotty
:agree:I also agree with this and hondaman"s comments. Very good precautions. :2thumbs:

[czdaryle]

One last question. I just saw the service manual and the say to spray fogger in the air intake for 5 seconds a piece. It say to open the throttle and then press start button while doing this. Do I do this with the key out so the the bike won't start or am I suppose to have it in neutral and the engine going....thanks

[Tonga]

I have put lots of Bikes and cars away for the winter and haver Never fogged any of them. My garage is insulated and the temps do not fluctuate and have never had an issue. I just change the oil add fuel stabilzer and a battery maintainer and wait for spring. Guess if I was putting it away in a barn or leaving out in the snow I'd think about it.

[NancysToy]

One last question. I just saw the service manual and the say to spray fogger in the air intake for 5 seconds a piece. It say to open the throttle and then press start button while doing this. Do I do this with the key out so the the bike won't start or am I suppose to have it in neutral and the engine going....thanks
I'm not sure where BRP is coming from on this. For one, it is only in the service manual, and not the owner's manual, so my guess is they mean it only for extended storage at the dealer, like a boat. It seems to serve no purpose on a four-stroke engine, except to cover the valve stem and any open valves with a coating of oil, as well as any steel intake componenets. In all my 50 years of tearing apart engines, I have never seen a running, assembled engine that was rusted upstairs in any way after only a few months of being idle, even if stored outside.

On a two-stroke outboard, standard practice for years has been to spray fogging oil in the intake until the engine stalls. For the most part, this fouls the plugs, so you need to replace them in the Spring. It would likely be the same with the Spyder, since their procedure seems to indicate not starting the engine, but simply cranking it with the starter while spraying. The key must be on to crank it. You are correct in that this could easily make it start when you didn't want it to. I suspect this is an old procedure for other BRP products, that was just carried over into the Spyder manual, for no substantiated reason.

My suggestion if you are going to fog the engine is to get it warm, then remove the spark plugs and spray into the holes. The oil will vaporize slightly, and spread over all the components, including any open valves and seats. Replace the plugs and button it up until Spring. Even though I fog most of the 23 bikes in the garage for storage, and usully my collector cars, I don't do my BMW RT because it gets ridden periodically. I doubt I'll fog the Spyder, either, for the same reason. I have never had difficulty when at the most the bikes are not ridden for 1-3 months. I just put them on the battery charger in the unheated garage, and let them go.
-Scotty

[czdaryle]

If I recall correctly it actually states winter storage. When I get home I will check again.

[czdaryle]

It says for winter storage. It states "Remove air filter housing cover, spray storage oil into throttle body(5 seconds in each openings) while cranking in drowned mode (throttle wide open and depress start button" I guess my question is should the engine be running while I do this...thanks

[Brandy]

What happens if you don't fog your Spyder?

[NancysToy]

It says for winter storage. It states "Remove air filter housing cover, spray storage oil into throttle body(5 seconds in each openings) while cranking in drowned mode (throttle wide open and depress start button" I guess my question is should the engine be running while I do this...thanks
If you open the throttle all the way, the Spyder will likely not start when you crank it. You can't crank the starter when it is running, anyway.
-Scotty

[NancysToy]

What happens if you don't fog your Spyder?
We'll find out soon enough. I'm not fogging Nancy's this winter. I don't fog my newer BMW, either, just the old stuff that sits longer.
-Scotty

[ataDude]

What happens if you don't fog your Spyder?

You'll have lots of teeny-weenie Spyder babies:
http://static.flickr.com/61/156835316_bfc1c6c821_m.jpg