First brake Job done!

[taxmyzer]

96728967299673096731 This job wasn't difficult at all. Will attempt rear brakes next but will need to look at some videos of 2013 rear brakes. If anyone has a link for 2013 please post. If you don't mind getting a little dirty this job is easy so save the labor cost. Front OE pads had just over 12k miles on them is this about right?

[Roadster Renovations]

96728967299673096731 This job wasn't difficult at all. Will attempt rear brakes next but will need to look at some videos of 2013 rear brakes. If anyone has a link for 2013 please post. If you don't mind getting a little dirty this job is easy so save the labor cost. Front OE pads had just over 12k miles on them is this about right?
Looks pretty cut and dried. What about the rotor? You replace it or resurface? When I do mine I have a "mushroom" that I use on flywheels that I probably will use. It is bunch of little tone balls that lightly score the surface to help the new clutch or brake seat in. I like how they did the reticulator ring (the ABS ring). Having it separate from the rotor should make the cost of the rotor cheaper. If that's possible. btw: Where did you get your pads?

[PW2013STL]

96728967299673096731 This job wasn't difficult at all. Will attempt rear brakes next but will need to look at some videos of 2013 rear brakes. If anyone has a link for 2013 please post. If you don't mind getting a little dirty this job is easy so save the labor cost. Front OE pads had just over 12k miles on them is this about right?

Looks good :thumbup:

When you do the rear it makes it easy if you remove the muffler first. Only one bolt and one clamp, but heavy so be careful. Make sure the parking brake is off and the wheel spins freely as this will give you the clearance that the new pads require. Free up the parking brake cable from its mounts on the swing arm, but do not move the lever attached to the caliper! Trust me you do not want the piston moving out. You can then remove the caliper mounting bolts and tilt the caliper to remove the cable from the lever without moving the parking brake lever.

You do not have to remove the rear wheel.

Once free the pads can then be removed and the new ones put in.
Reassemble and ride.

[Chupaca]

these pads wear limits are thin. I have 24,000 miles on mine and still good. I do use the engine compression for braking. I also got 22,000+ miles on my Kenda and the fronts are still good. Must have lucked out with this RS.

On those calipers you can actually change the pads with out taking anything but the wheel off. On the rear not even the wheel. Just make sure you have not added any brake fluid if you have remove some before you push the pistons back...:thumbup:

[StanProff]

Normally on the spyder the rear will ware down quicker than the fronts. I changed the rear on my '10 RTS at 20,000 miles. The fronts were still good, I bought a set of pads for them anyway to change later. According to the dealer, you have 60% braking on the front and 40% rear. That would mean each front wheel sees 30% while the rear is doing 40% being the reason the rear will ware quicker.

[jcthorne]

Most Brembo calipers do not need to be removed to pull and replace the pads. These are no different. Just remove the wheel and the pin in the center holding the pads. The pads pull out the back of the caliper and go back in the same way. Brembo's are designed for quick pad changes at the track. These appear to be a miniature version of what is on my GT, very similar design, just much smaller.

[Bob Denman]

:congrats: on a good job; well-done! :clap: :firstplace: