what are the shifting points for the F3?

[vondalyn]

I've driven the RT SE6 in eco-mode and found the shift points dramatically different from what I've gotten used to with my RT SE5. I read/heard (somewhere) that the F3 is set up slightly differently from the RT, so I wondered about RPMs/MPH for the gears on this model. Any advice from those who have taken it out for a spin?
Does BRP have advice? At the owners event I was asked by several BRP folks at what range RPMs I normally run in, and we know we shouldn't drive steadily below 4300rpms with that engine (the rotax 998 engine I mean). Just wondering how the F3 differs...

[Chupaca]

it will be the same as the RT sm6/se6 without using the eco mode. Thats just a gimick for the epa guys and kills the fun part of the ryde..jmo..:thumbup:

[dguisinger]

it will be the same as the RT sm6/se6 without using the eco mode. Thats just a gimick for the epa guys and kills the fun part of the ryde..jmo..:thumbup:

i don't think that's correct, my understanding is the gear ratios are completely different and geared for rocketing off the starting line

[Bob Denman]

If you start out shifting it the way you'd shift a new 1330 RT; that's a safe way to get the game going. :2thumbs:

[vondalyn]

I'd much rather rocket off the starting line! that's more my style. Yes.... I'll continue going through back tires.

[sledmaster]

The F3 is geared slightly lower with a 4-tooth larger rear sprocket and a drive belt that is 2" longer. The machine seems to run at 500 RPM higher for a given road speed. It squeaks the rear tire much easier, with a more aggressive drive-away characteristic. You can squak the rear tire in most any and every gear shift, as the bike is also 160 pounds lighter. But with the super broad torque band of the 1330, the exact shift points are really a moot point compared to a 990/991.

I just got back from riding the F3 up in Quebec for a couple of days, we put on 400 km and had a full presentation from the marketing, engineering and design teams. I am working on a presentation to put up here, but am trying to catch up from being gone for several days, so give me a bit to get it prepped. Let's just say the F3 truly does change the rules, and it works FAR better than even I expected. It is completely a bad-ass bitchin' machine, and pretty much obsoletes the RS and ST in my opinion. It is difficult to believe how much easier it is to ride, how superior the riding position is despite what you might think, and how the effort to steer is so, well, effortless. The lane wandering is gone, the thing tracks very straight, and you use less upper body and far more of your thighs in the cornering. I never thought it would work so well, but I have to tell you it is going to rock the cruiser market once people figure out how good it works. It looks good, sounds good, rides good, sits well, handles better, my guess is BRP will sell twice as many Spyders than they do now in maybe 3-4 years from now. It is that good. I will for sure be riding one next year!
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[daveinva]

Sledmaster, seriously, genuinely: thank you for that post. It's probably the most informative yet I've seen here about the F3, particularly in comparison to the RS and handling (see the other thread "F3 vs. RS"... your impressions would be most welcome over there I presume!).

DEFINITELY interested in riding one.

[sledmaster]

Just put another post in the general discussion (F3 vs. RS) section as well. I am so stoked about the F3, can not believe how well it worked.

[Bob Denman]

Do you have one coming; with your name on it yet? :D
Your opinion about this exciting model carries a lot of weight... Thanks for chiming in! :clap::clap::clap: nojoke

[sledmaster]

Yes I will have an F3 to ride. Zero doubt. The ones with the red frame tubes were really horny, not sure if I want the magnesium or the white with the red rails. They were all really sweet in real life. The image they project is so bold and muscular. They just plain look bad ass sitting there. The styling should win some awards, it is very well executed and downright elegant.

Now I have to decide if I need to make room for a third Spyder, or sell one or both of mine here now. I rode a manual the first day for over 200 km, then a SE6 the second day for not quite as far. The manual was REALLY awesome, and the BRP guys think the manual will actually be more popular than the semi-auto. My 2008 is a manual and 2013 is a SE5, so I am torn, but the manual F3 was freaking awesome. The uFit system with five positions for the foot pegs is ingenious, we could nail the leg length of everyone from the 5th percentile of small women to the 95th percentile of tall guys. You lock in between the pegs and the bucket seat for an incredibly secure feeling and you can just rail around the corners like this. Can you tell I am stoked? I honestly did not think it would be that much better, but it really blew me away. You have to forget initial impressions and just ride it, then you will see what I be sayin' here. RT riders might not be the target here, but RS and ST riders will for sure want to try one. Or not. Once you do then you will be bummed if you can't upgrade.........

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Dang...
Are you at all concerned about a longer drive belt? :dontknow:
I know that you don't want to get too small up front, but would losing one tooth up there help to keep a bit smaller rear sprocket a possibility? Could that have allowed for use of the same belt as the other bikes?

[sledmaster]

Percentage-wise a couple of inches should be a complete non-issue. It is a long belt, either way. If anything the shop guys will now have to be careful to use the right one.

Like on a sled, you are more efficient with as large of a small gear as possible, so we wouldn't want to go any smaller on the front sprocket. Don't want to increase the bending of the belt by wrapping it around an even smaller sprocket.

It also seemed like there was far less belt resonance, or maybe it moved to a different frequency, but it didn't seem to be an issue at cruising speeds.