Tri-axis handlebar install video series

[finless]

Hi folks.... well as always I shoot video that might help someone.
This time around it is how to install the Tri-Axis handlebars.

1/15/2015 - Edited my RANT commentary... Not needed here...

_____________________


This is a video series (it's 3 parts) I shot showing how to install the Tri-axis handlebars on a RT.

Feel free to ask questions and I will respond.

I hope this video series is helpful to someone AND ENJOY!


PART 1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7DPxDzWx4g


Part 2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d86blO7fVEc


Part 3:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfRlqmgnr6I


I hope these videos help someone!

Enjoy,
Bob

[finless]

DAMN IT... I misspelled handlebars in my thread title...

Lemont does not allow Vbulletin users to edit title threads :(

I wish I could fix it so it is searchable but alas it is stuck with the misspell :(

Lemont, can you please edit the title for me?

Bob

[Jim&Teresa]

Thanks Bob....great job! :firstplace: I wish I would have had your video instructions when I had done mine!!!

This will really help those who want to tackle a job like this!

BTW...I really like our tri axis bars.....no more neck or back pain on long trips as I have the handlebars exactly where I need them! :D

[iSpyder123]

DAMN IT... I misspelled handlebars in my thread title...

Lemont does not allow Vbulletin users to edit title threads :(

I wish I could fix it so it is searchable but alas it is stuck with the misspell :(

Lemont, can you please edit the title for me?

Bob

I noticed it's fixed but

Would Edit Thread>Go Advanced work for you?
I checked out a thread I started and saw where I was able to do something to the title.
I never tried it though. I just noticed it to try and help the next person out.

[finless]

I have to ask....
Has anyone done this themselves now? Did these videos help?

Reason I ask is somehow Youtube messed them up and they do not play fully. Part 1 wont play for me even when I try to watch it in my Youtube manager. Part 3 wont finish... I complained to Youtube about it but no response.

Honestly, if no one needs these, I don't think I want to spend the time to edit them again and re-upload... Funny not a single person has said anything to me about them not working so I have to assume no one really needs them?

Freakin Youtube.... I am not happy :(

Bob

[SpyderAnn01]

We are swapping out the silver bars for black ones on a friend's Spyder and I thought I would watch this to see what I could learn. I'm hoping that swapping that part out isn't as time consuming as the Tri Axis bars.

[stormtrooper]

I will be watching your videos soon as in a few weeks I will be doing the Tri-axis bars on my 2014 RT-S.I will let you know if they help.From what I saw I would assume they will help :yes:

[finless]

We are swapping out the silver bars for black ones on a friend's Spyder and I thought I would watch this to see what I could learn. I'm hoping that swapping that part out isn't as time consuming as the Tri Axis bars.

No.... that is super easy to do! You do not have to even go into what it takes to install the tri-axis bars just to replace the covers!

Be ready for the 4 top hex bolts though... My video does cover that.

Bob

[finless]

OK I am pretty PC savvy.... but I cannot get part 1 of this video series to play. It did and worked way back when I uploaded it. Now for me, it does not play all the way and in fact dies about 3 minutes in and youtube gives an error.

Can someone else tell me if this is a problem for you?

I have a feeling I have to re-upload these due to youtube screwing them up!

So someone try to play part 1 and let me know.... Then.... if someone needs it to work and it isn't, I will spend the time to do it again.

Bob

[pitzerwm]

OK I am pretty PC savvy.... but I cannot get part 1 of this video series to play. It did and worked way back when I uploaded it. Now for me, it does not play all the way and in fact dies about 3 minutes in and youtube gives an error.

Can someone else tell me if this is a problem for you?

I have a feeling I have to re-upload these due to youtube screwing them up!

So someone try to play part 1 and let me know.... Then.... if someone needs it to work and it isn't, I will spend the time to do it again.

Bob

Worked just fine for me. I don't really see any difference in the new handlebars, what is the difference?

[stormtrooper]

OK I am pretty PC savvy.... but I cannot get part 1 of this video series to play. It did and worked way back when I uploaded it. Now for me, it does not play all the way and in fact dies about 3 minutes in and youtube gives an error.

Can someone else tell me if this is a problem for you?

I have a feeling I have to re-upload these due to youtube screwing them up!

So someone try to play part 1 and let me know.... Then.... if someone needs it to work and it isn't, I will spend the time to do it again.

Bob

No good for me.Stops and says error :dontknow: I hope you can fix.I plan on watching when I do my bars.

[stormtrooper]

Well I did the Tri-axis bars and I would have to say its really not that hard.I do have lots of experience with ripping bikes/Spyders apart so that might have helped.Yes there is a few tricky bolts to do and hope you do not lose them.Overall its not that bad of a job.The videos help for sure because the instructions are really not that great.

[Spyder 42]

Hi, Bob. Yes, please keep your videos up. We will have a set on our RT later this spring and I will be the wrench. FWIW, I played the first vid, then paused it to answer the phone. When I came back, the video would not play but the audio did. I believe this is more a function of YouTube and IOS than it is the video itself as I've seen this issue before.

[finless]

I am going to try to re-upload part 1 this week. The PC also has an issue with playing part 1 sometimes so it's not just iOS.

Stormtrooper, glad to hear t all went OK! :clap:

Bob

[stormtrooper]

Just a heads up.There is a new set of tri-axis bars on E-bay starting bid of $425 plus $12.50 shipping no reserve.Good deal :thumbup:

[SpyderAnn01]

Bob, thanks for the video. My girlfriend wanted the stock black bars off my 14 installed on her 12 and Joe and I tackled that last weekend. We had no instructions so your video was really helpful.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am going to try to re-upload part 1 this week. The PC also has an issue with playing part 1 sometimes so it's not just iOS.

Stormtrooper, glad to hear t all went OK! :clap:

Bob
When I uploaded a video the other day I saw something about a 15 minute time limit on the video length. Maybe you ran into that as your first two are more than 15 minutes.

I don't know if it's in the video or not but one caution from my experience. Be very careful with the top end of the trunk and glovebox release cables. The ferrule at the top of them is not rugged and is easily broken, and not easy to fix. I had mine changed when the DPS was swapped out.

[MisterP]

Thanks, Bob. Your videos convinced me I have no interest in changing handlebars, and I have taken parts of and on the Fat White Chick.

Just not that many at one time...

[finless]

Youtube long ago updated my account to 1 hour videos because of how many I have done so no 15 minute issue there.

I complained to Youtube about the issue and it looks like they fixed it. As of this AM I am able to play the video in Chrome, I.E., Android Youtube APP and iPhone Youtube APP.

So looks like they fixed it for me :)

Ann, glad the video helped!

WasWinger, yes I was aware of your dilemma so was very careful there with the cable. In fact I pointed this out in the video and what had happened to you telling folks to be careful.

MisterP, really not that hard just time consuming. Having the right tools that I outline will keep you from getting hung up.

Bob

[Jdsd1]

I had the tri-axis installed. I know what the top screws control but what about the bottom one? I try to loosen it but it is extremely tight and I cant get movement. Can you explain? Thanks

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I had the tri-axis installed. I know what the top screws control but what about the bottom one? I try to loosen it but it is extremely tight and I cant get movement. Can you explain? Thanks
The lower screw is intended to be that way. It adjusts the height of the grips by pivoting the handlebar up and down. Since there is no way to lock the screw into place, or torque it down like you can the upper ones, it is made to be hard to turn. That way it won't creep turn from where you set it.

[ahh-cool]

The videos worked for me on firefox

[bscrive]

The videos worked for me on Safari. Thanks Bob for the videos.
I am going to install some Tri Axis bars on my wife's ST Limited in the next couple of weeks and your video helped me out a lot. I have already put on a set of RT bars to make sure that they would fit so these should be the same. The only issue I see is putting that bottom plastic skirt back on but I will find a way.


Brian

[finless]

I had the tri-axis installed. I know what the top screws control but what about the bottom one? I try to loosen it but it is extremely tight and I cant get movement. Can you explain? Thanks

You did get the big Allen tool that comes with the bars correct? You will need that to turn the bottom screw. As WasWinger said above, it is hard to turn for a reason but using the tool you should have no problems. Again as he said it is for changing the height / forward back angle.

Bob

[Jdsd1]

You did get the big Allen tool that comes with the bars correct? You will need that to turn the bottom screw. As WasWinger said above, it is hard to turn for a reason but using the tool you should have no problems. Again as he said it is for changing the height / forward back angle.

Bob
Thanks for the input. Yes I did get the Allen tool but I may have tightened it much and I think I will have to use a ratchet tool to get more leverage.

[happyspyder2039]

Nice video!
Note to anyone..if you don't have GPS mounted to the bars I recommend getting Elmers rubber glue and glue the small center rubber piece to the Bar or it will disappear shortly on 1st Ryde.

[jetmech]

Hi folks.... well as always I shoot video that might help someone.
This time around it is how to install the Tri-Axis handlebars.

1/15/2015 - Edited my RANT commentary... Not needed here...

_____________________


This is a video series (it's 3 parts) I shot showing how to install the Tri-axis handlebars on a RT.

Feel free to ask questions and I will respond.

I hope this video series is helpful to someone AND ENJOY!


PART 1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7DPxDzWx4g


Part 2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d86blO7fVEc


Part 3:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfRlqmgnr6I


I hope these videos help someone!

Enjoy,
Bob
Hey Bob, we had our local dealer install a chrome set but they were loose after installed. Could rock about 1/2 inch in each direction when pushing down or up when the adjustment assembly tight. The horizontal bolt was tight wiTh no play when you rocked the handlebars. I think the 4 bolts that hold the steering column tri axis plate in place may have been loose. They said is was a warranty issue but never got new tri axis bars. So we threaten to let everyone know how bad the dealership is. The owner got involved and after 3 months they put the olds ones back on, and refunded our money. The steering column tri axis plate bolts or the handlebar assembly horizontal bolt are the only things that I think could cause this problem. Your thought?

[finless]

Hey Bob, we had our local dealer install a chrome set but they were loose after installed. Could rock about 1/2 inch in each direction when pushing down or up when the adjustment assembly tight. The horizontal bolt was tight wiTh no play when you rocked the handlebars. I think the 4 bolts that hold the steering column tri axis plate in place may have been loose. They said is was a warranty issue but never got new tri axis bars. So we threaten to let everyone know how bad the dealership is. The owner got involved and after 3 months they put the olds ones back on, and refunded our money. The steering column tri axis plate bolts or the handlebar assembly horizontal bolt are the only things that I think could cause this problem. Your thought?

I bet it was the 4 bolts as that is the key part of any type of rocking of the handlebars!

I bet you a million bucks the old locktite in the holes of the column cause the mechanic to think they were torqued to spec yet were not even close!
I had to clean out the threads of the column holes to get a proper torque spec on the new bolts. BRP used a crap load of locktite on those probably for good reason but that left over locktite tended to fowl the new bolts going in.

It's a bummer to hear you had to go through all that and now don't have your nice handlebars :(

Some mechanics need to not be in such a hurry to make time constrints and actually look and see what is going on. This unfortunately causes me to have to do my own work. I almost don't trust anyone now to touch my Spyder....

My 14K service is coming up and that means checking the valves. I know I can do this myself but don't really want to. But I am SOOOOOO worried about letting someone else work on my bike, I am at a cross road....

Bob

[happyspyder2039]

I bet it was the 4 bolts as that is the key part of any type of rocking of the handlebars!I bet you a million bucks the old locktite in the holes of the column cause the mechanic to think they were torqued to spec yet were not even close!I had to clean out the threads of the column holes to get a proper torque spec on the new bolts. BRP used a crap load of locktite on those probably for good reason but that left over locktite tended to fowl the new bolts going in.It's a bummer to hear you had to go through all that and now don't have your nice handlebars :(Some mechanics need to not be in such a hurry to make time constrints and actually look and see what is going on. This unfortunately causes me to have to do my own work. I almost don't trust anyone now to touch my Spyder....My 14K service is coming up and that means checking the valves. I know I can do this myself but don't really want to. But I am SOOOOOO worried about letting someone else work on my bike, I am at a cross road....Bobthink they updated valve check to later mileage. Lots of people have gone 30k+ before doing it.

[finless]

think they updated valve check to later mileage. Lots of people have gone 30k+ before doing it.

I am aware that many that had the valves checked at 14K did not in fact need it. But I also know some that did!

BRP has not changed the spec on the 990. So if you have warranty for a while and don't have it done, if there is a failure there you wont be covered. I specifically called and asked them this. Again, they did not update that spec.

Bob

[jetmech]

Hi folks.... well as always I shoot video that might help someone.
This time around it is how to install the Tri-Axis handlebars.

1/15/2015 - Edited my RANT commentary... Not needed here...

_____________________


This is a video series (it's 3 parts) I shot showing how to install the Tri-axis handlebars on a RT.

Feel free to ask questions and I will respond.

I hope this video series is helpful to someone AND ENJOY!


PART 1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7DPxDzWx4g


Part 2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d86blO7fVEc


Part 3:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfRlqmgnr6I


I hope these videos help someone!

Enjoy,
Bob
Great videos Bob. I found that if you remove the frunk latches first I could easily get to the two front bolts that hold the fairing assembly on. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to get to where I can install the triaxis handlebar. I used a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 3/8ths drive adapter to break the old handlebar bolts loose. Was pretty smooth using your instructions. Again many thanks.
As a side note I wish BRP could reduce the size of the air intake box to get more air around the back cylinder. I may go to the JT air filter if the BRP fix for the heat issue is not that effective.

[finless]

Glad they helped!
Yes after doing mine I realize that if I do it again, to remove the frunk latch first thing! As you saw that hung me up in a couple of places.

I may be helping a local guy here with his bars on a 2014 so the lessons I learned will be helpful the 2nd time around :)
Although I think the 2014's don't have the electronic latch. But it might be helpful to remove the manual latch itself anyway.....

Enjoy the new handlebars!

Bob

[stevedfive]

Your video was a great help. I could have not done without it. Thank you.

[finless]

Your video was a great help. I could have not done without it. Thank you.

Glad you gotter done yourself Steve!

Dang I was hoping to help and get a free lunch :)

Bob

[Troublemaker1]

Hey Bob,

On page one of this post someone mentioned changing out the stock alum cover with a colored one and you mentioned it was quite a bit easier,

Did you do a video on that?

Steve

[finless]

Hey Bob,

On page one of this post someone mentioned changing out the stock alum cover with a colored one and you mentioned it was quite a bit easier,

Did you do a video on that?

Steve

Nope but it should be pretty easy.

1) Remove the 4 bolts at the center. Be aware they will be extremely tight and you may not be able to do it with a L allen wrench. You may need a allen driver and socket wrench.
2) Under the handlebars are the 2 plastic covers. They will be held on to the top cover with 4 screws on each side. Remove those.
3) Just like in the video, remove the grips from the top cover.
3) Put the new cover on and reverse the steps.

Bottom line it's almost the same EXCEPT... you do not have to remove the entire fairing, and you do not have to mess with the key switch at all.

If you watch my videos through, you will see what I am talking about as basically those same steps have to be done.

Buy me lunch, come up here, and I will install it for you :)

Bob

[Troublemaker1]

Nope but it should be pretty easy.

1) Remove the 4 bolts at the center. Be aware they will be extremely tight and you may not be able to do it with a L allen wrench. You may need a allen driver and socket wrench.
2) Under the handlebars are the 2 plastic covers. They will be held on to the top cover with 4 screws on each side. Remove those.
3) Just like in the video, remove the grips from the top cover.
3) Put the new cover on and reverse the steps.

Bottom line it's almost the same EXCEPT... you do not have to remove the entire fairing, and you do not have to mess with the key switch at all.

If you watch my videos through, you will see what I am talking about as basically those same steps have to be done.

Buy me lunch, come up here, and I will install it for you :)



Bob

Sounds good how far is home from Chula Vista? and what do you want for lunch...

[finless]

Sounds good how far is home from Chula Vista? and what do you want for lunch...

Chula Vista.... man your right at the boarder! There is a RC airplane club there I have been to a few events at.

http://www.cvmrcc.com/

I am up in Stanton, Ca so that's a good 2.5 hours minimum as I recall.

Maybe I come down there and visit the RC club too...... I just don't know when I can do it... Let me think about a schedule.

Bob

[Troublemaker1]

Chula Vista.... man your right at the boarder! There is a RC airplane club there I have been to a few events at.

http://www.cvmrcc.com/

I am up in Stanton, Ca so that's a good 2.5 hours minimum as I recall.

Maybe I come down there and visit the RC club too...... I just don't know when I can do it... Let me think about a schedule.

Bob

In that case lunch and a bed for an over night is on me. provided you don't mind cats.

Steve

[robhowen]

I just had the dealer install my new set of Tri-Axis bars for my 15 RT-Ltd. Thank you as I watched the posted videos in advance to get a sense of what had to be done. For my dealer it was their first installation of the bars. They thought it was going to be a 2 hour or less job; I thought it was going to be 5 hours given what I learned from the videos. Bottom line: It was 5 hours and they appeared to use the same approach used by the poster of the videos. Also the new GPS mount is required. Unfortunately the actual mount is the only part required, yet the BRP kit includes an all new power supply and GPS connector that you don't need. Too bad that you can't just purchase the new bar mount alone. Now I get to experiment with positions on the bars and hopefully feel the difference by eliminating the pain between my shoulders. After some time I'll report my experience with the new bars.

Rob

[kitkat61]

Just wanted to say "thank you" for the time & effort you spent putting these (and all the other) videos together. I just bought a 2015 RT-S and had the dealer install the Tri Axis before we took possession. And as soon as we tried to adjust the height we knew we had a problem. If you turn the lower bolt, it just gets loose. Up to several inches of 'flop' if you keep turning it. Based on your videos, we know that's not right so back to the dealer it goes. But the videos did help us determine it wasn't anything WE were doing wrong. Just a bad install.

So thank again, plan on learning as much as I can from everyone on these boards.

Kathy

[KX5062]

I'm bring back this old thread to say thanks to Finless because I have dealer installed (when I bought it) tri-axis bars on my 2014 and they have gotten progressively looser over time, so I now have to dive in and figure out what bolt or bolts or whatever have loosened up, so I found these videos useful. :thumbup:

So, also a note to other tri-axis owners that you should keep an eye on them because the dealer might not have been as diligent as they should have been during the installation process. (clean bolts, loctite, proper torque, etc)