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View Full Version : HowTo: Replace the Windsheld Arm with Billet Aluminum Arm.



ThreeWheels
09-19-2014, 10:43 AM
You may have seen this in the regular threads. I thought I'd clean this up, add some more info, and include it as a separate post for those interested. I know, I'm being a little pretentious.
I'm surprised at how little attention there is in this arm outside of this forum. I guess it really isn't as big of a deal as I had originally thought.

For those who aren't familiar with the issue, here's what all the hubbub is about.
There are three mechanical arms used to control the motion of the windshield on the Spyder RT. Two of the arms (left and right) are not powered and just guide the windshield into position.
The center arm, the mechanized control arm, is powered and provides the motive force to raise and lower the windshield.

When this mechanized control arm breaks, the windshield drops and lays down on top of the dashboard. The guide arms don't seem to let go, so it's unlikely the windshield will fall off and hit someone, but when you are at speed, the resultant blast of air can take one by surprise and cause a real "Uh-Oh!!!!" moment that tends to leave skid marks in your shorts.

The control arm is not available as a separate unit from BRP. You have to purchase the entire windshield drive mechanism from BRP to get a new control arm. The cost of the repair is somewhere in the $700 range, most of that cost is in purchasing the new drive mechanism. If this happens within the 2 year OEM warranty, BRP will pick up the replacement cost. If it happens after the 2 year warranty, the owner has to pick up the entire cost, even if the Spyder is covered under the BEST warranty.

On my 2010 RT, I had two windshield control arms break and consequently two complete new windshield drive mechanisms, all paid for by BRP.
Each of these arms lasted roughly 13,000 miles. I traded my 2010 RT in at about 30,000 miles.
Sadly, the new 2014 RT has exactly the same design control arm. In my opinion, it's unlikely the 2014 control arm will be more reliable.

An alternate billet aluminum arm is now available that replaces only the OEM control arm.
This requires dis-assembly of the windshield drive mechanism, something that is clearly outside the normal scope of BRP repair.
When installed, the new billet arm is expected to outlast the Spyder.
I chose to install the billet aluminum arm as a preventive measure, rather than wait for my OEM arm to fail.

Here is a photo of my second arm that was cracked and replaced before a catastrophic failure.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=77838&d=1382220096

Here are two catastrophic failures. This next picture I have shamelessly stolen from Teddy's Dave (CyncySpyder)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96292&d=1412292900


This next picture I have, again shamelessly stolen from eddieshep999

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96291&d=1412292879

There have been many other failures posted. I don't know how many in total. I'd guesstimate as much as 5% based in CyncySpyder's poll

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?34743-WARNING-FOR-ALL-RT-OWNERS-*-You-may-want-to-check-this-on-your-machine&highlight=warning

Here is a photo of the billet arm that I received.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94731&d=1410003074

I’d like to say a hearty Thank You to two people:
First, noboot (Ron) for making these beautiful works of art. As sturdy as they are beautiful. I understand there is a move afoot to have these arms available through one of the established vendors here on this site.

Second is John (JRWW). I had contacted JRWW who had installed the billet arm himself. He was able to give me some general directions to follow and a few keen pointers, some of which I neglected, much to my detriment. I will quote parts of his email at appropriate times

The billet arm is exactly that, a single piece of metal. Manufactured by cutting away unwanted material from one piece of aluminum. There are no welds to fail, nor is there any grain such as the pressed metal OEM pieces. The existing arm has often times proven inferior.
My 2010 went through two of these arms and a friend of mine surprisingly had his arm fail as well.
Talking with others, it seems the Florida contingent has no problems with these arms. It may well be that only those in the Northeast (AKA potholes) have reliability issues.

I photographed everything, mostly so I would know how to reassemble things.

First, remove the windshield and the windshield support. This comes out pretty easily with just a few bolts and bushings. This takes about 15 minutes.
Next, remove the fascia around the windshield operating arms to get to the one we want to replace.
There are two screws on the top, take them out.
You have to take off the mirrors, both left and right upper panels and the fascia around the headlights to get to all the bolts to remove the windshield fascia. This doesn’t take a long time.
At this point we’re about an hour into the project.
Now that the windshield mechanism is exposed, you need to start removing the arm from the mechanism in order to replace it.

Next is a photo of the windshield mechanism exposed with the OEM arm in place.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94732&d=1410003123

At this point, I’ll quote John:

"Gidday Steven,
I'll try and explain as best I can from memory, now been awhile since I did this. Once all the Tupperware is removed the tricky bit is prying the top plastic parts either side of the arm apart. They are glued down and after you remove the screws, use a flat bladed screwdriver, I gently tapped it between the top and bottom section, it takes a bit of force to break the glue and mine went flying across my workshop. Then the arm lifts out, make sure you mark the position of the arm on either side before removing. The next difficult part is removing the arm from the shaft, on one end is a magnet, put some tape over it so you don't lose it. I placed the arm in a bench vice to remove a pin that locks the arm in place. I sacrificed a small drill of the same size to tap it out, make sure you don't damage the hexagonal shaft in anyway as you won't get the new arm on. Then using a hair dyer to heat the toothed plastic wheel I used a small open ended spanner slightly bigger than the shaft placed on the wheel and very gently tapped the spanner with a hammer to remove the wheel. Did I mention gently!!!!! Take your time here!!!! Apply plenty of heat and take your time. Once you have the wheel removed then with a rubber mallet gently tap the hexagonal shaft out of the old arm. Again take your time and be gentle!!! The installation of the new arm is just the reverse, make sure the hole in the arm lines up with the hole in the shaft to replace the metal pin. Forgot to mention I had real difficulty in removing two of the screws on one side of the plastic holding the arm in place, ended up removing with multi grips and destroying the head, so went to my local bolt place and bought new bolts with Allen key head. Also once you have put the arm back in place and fitted everything, start your bike and operate the electric button to ensure the arm moves up and down without any issues. If you mark the position as I mentioned everything should be fine. Best of luck and let me know how you go.
Regards
John"

The arm/shaft/gear can be removed from the lifting mechanism without removing the mechanism from the Spyder.
I removed the screws that hold the top part of the plastic pieces in place. In both cases, the lower screw could be removed easily. I broke the heads off the upper screws. The plastic pieces came off with no problem at all. No, or little glue.
Removing the arm assembly was quite easy, and I was left with the next biggest problem. Removing the plastic gear to make way for removing and replacing the arm. There is a small screw at the end of the gear that retains the gear on the shaft. This needs to be removed. The head is a small phillips head, which I promptly stripped. I used a hacksaw to cut a new slot for a straight bladed screwdriver and carefully removed the screw.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=95653&d=1411321330

I tried the spanner (wrench) trick John spoke of with one minor difference. Rather than putting the wrench around the plastic shaft of the gear, I put the wrench around the sprocket and began rapping. This was not wise. Not much happened, so I continue to rap with increasing force until I finally broke the gear. I should have paid more attention to the "gently" part.
Once the gear was broken, it was much easier getting the plastic shaft off the main shaft. I understand Ron is now including wedges in his kit to help with uninstalling the plastic gear.

Next is a photo of the broken gear.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94733&d=1410003172


So, now I had to fix the gear. I degreased the plastic parts and got out Devcon Plastic Welder, my go to glue for all things plastic from ABS to Styrene. It glues everything except polypropylene. If you ever use it, one safety tip: The instructions say “Use in a well ventilated area”. They aren’t kidding. This stuff is great, but it smells very bad. This glue forms a chemical bond with the plastic, so it's much stronger than a simple glue.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94738&d=1410003954

An hour later, the gear is repaired. I used one of my miniature screw drivers as a punch and hammered it to remove the pins on the old arm. I removed the old arm, installed the new arm reusing the pins and reinstalled the now repaired gear. I had to use a hammer to rap the plastic gear back into place. The outside diameter of the new arm is a little bigger than the old arm. When re-installing the pins, keep this in mind to try to install the pins to get maximum grip from both ends of the pin. Also remember to transfer the bushings from the old arm to the new arm.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94734&d=1410003243


Please note the plastic repair to the gear. I filled in the entire void space with glue, so instead of the 1/16" ring mounting the gear to the plastic shaft, now there is 3/8" of plastic mounting the gear to the plastic shaft. I was careful to make sure the gear was square to the shaft before the glue set. I'm confident that the plastic gear is now stronger than it was in its original configuration.

Here is another picture of the final assembly of the shaft. Notice the holes in the arm with the pins installed. You can clearly see that Ron has stamped the word "TOP" into the billet arm as another means to ensure the correct alignment.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94735&d=1410003291

I put the gear shaft and arm in place and locked it down with only one screw in each of the plastic retainers. I used the up and down buttons to cycle the mechanism and make sure it worked properly before I fully reassembled everything. You just need to make sure that you put the arm back in the same position you took it out from so the magnet lines up. The magnet is what controls the position of the arm. I used my favorite glue again to fill the screw holes of the broken screws to make sure the plastic parts stay in place tightly. This is very important. In my opinion, the control arm breaks because it is absorbing the energy from the twisting or bouncing motion of the windshield. The absorbed energy is what breaks the arm. The new arm doesn’t absorb the energy; it is strong enough that it just transmits the energy to the rest of the mechanism, so be sure the plastic parts are all locked down firmly, even if you need to use additional glue. This will ensure that other parts of the mechanism are strong enough to support the load of the bouncing windshield.

Next is a picture of the new arm assembled into the lifting mechanism.
Notice the two new screws in the upper holes of the plastic hold down pieces. These are also glued in place for additional strength.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94736&d=1410003340




http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94737&d=1410003389

After re-installing the front fascia, I ran the arm up and down again to make sure it operated properly.

All told, going from old arm to new arm took about 4 hours, and that included an extra 90 minutes figuring things out and repairing all the stuff I broke. Figure about 2 and a half hours if most goes well. I waited another 6 hours or so before I put the windshield support and windshield back in place to allow all the glued pieces to reach maximum strength before use.

I've had the new arm on for 1500 miles now. No operational issues with the lifting mechanism at all.

eddieshep999
09-19-2014, 11:18 AM
Thanks for posting

I would like to get my arm changed out but would be not have the skills to even attempt this (Bound to end in tears or more expense)

Maybe someone will come up with the arm already located on the shaft and it would be any easy swap out but reading whats involved I doubt this will be available or even possible as the arm needs to be set to ensure it rises and falls correctly

The other option would be for BRP to purchase the arms and fit them to new machines to avoid any further issues, again I don't expect to happen which is such a shame

I have a broken unit (Motor, Mount, Shaft and broken Arm etc all still in place)- Having had BRP replace mine for the 2nd time So if I could find someone willing to take the work on I would be willing to post it out and pay for the work to be done and returned to me
I would then keep it ready to change out with a stock unit when I upgrade to the 1300 RT sometime next year

larryd
09-21-2014, 07:58 AM
I also just purchased this bracket for my 2014 RTS...I have a F4 larger windshield and I live in PA, noted for pot holed roads...So to be ready for when the cracks start I purchased this QUALITY replacement part...GREAT SERVICE and a QUALITY PART from Ron Piggott...larryd

BLUEKNIGHT911
09-21-2014, 09:51 AM
:clap:.....Thank you for taking the time to present this information and doing it in such a professional manner :thumbup:. As you and some others here may remember I have had some experience with this issue. I made a steel cover for a broken one that I got from a fellow Spyderlover, ( BILL RYAN ) and swapped it for the one on my 2014 RT. ...Actually I had to swap the entire Platform with the arm assembly. Because His ARM wouldn't work properly on My Platform ( the large blk plastic piece everything attaches to) ........I did discover that when putting the ARM back into it's fitting ( on the platform ) it didn't matter about where it was marked ....it always went up and down and stopped where it was supposed to, no matter how I placed it in it's fitting ......Somehow the magnetic TRIGGER and the computer are linked because it always worked as designed .....And when it comes from the factory IMHO the ARM and PLATFORM are linked ......and you cannot exchange or swap ARM assemblies with different PLATFORMS ......At least this was my experience.............Getting the GEAR wheel off the Shaft ( as stated above ) is going to be a challenge to say the least......I have made two attempts on my original ARM ( I use this to make steel covers ) , without success. I did not use HEAT on the gear wheel though......I have a concern about warping / melting that plastic, BECAUSE if you do you cannot replace the gear wheel......and if it is not absolutely " TRUE " ,,,it may work a few times , but either the motor will burn out or the gears will strip.......If you think the ARM is stressed ....that's nothing compared to the gear assembly............So far My cover is working well , I have about 800+ miles on the windshield since I put it on.....I hope this info helps anyone attempting this fix........................Mike :thumbup:

Roadster Renovations
10-04-2014, 09:57 PM
Thanks for posting. I will be upgrading mine as soon as those are available and I urge everyone else to do so. I do not see them breaking at low speed. Probably on the interstate and in heavy traffic. A much needed upgrade.

Magdave
10-04-2014, 11:17 PM
I also have one sleeping in my tool box from down under including the wedges to assist in the gear removal. Insurance just in case. :thumbup:If mine breaks under warranty I will let BRP replace it after that I will.

Huddleston
10-05-2014, 06:55 AM
Where do you get the replacement arm?

Yelhelp
10-05-2014, 07:10 AM
:clap:.....Thank you for taking the time to present this information and doing it in such a professional manner :thumbup:. As you and some others here may remember I have had some experience with this issue. I made a steel cover for a broken one that I got from a fellow Spyderlover, and swapped it for the one on my 2014 RT. ...Actually I had to swap the entire Platform with the arm assembly. Because His ARM wouldn't work properly on My Platform ( the large blk plastic piece everything attaches to) ........I did discover that when putting the ARM back into it's fitting ( on the platform ) it didn't matter about where it was marked ....it always went up and down and stopped where it was supposed to, no matter how I placed it in it's fitting ......Somehow the magnetic TRIGGER and the computer are linked because it always worked as designed .....And when it comes from the factory IMHO the ARM and PLATFORM are linked ......and you cannot exchange or swap ARM assemblies with different PLATFORMS ......At least this was my experience.............Getting the GEAR wheel off the Shaft ( as stated above ) is going to be a challenge to say the least......I have made two attempts on my original ARM ( I use this to make steel covers ) , without success. I did not use HEAT on the gear wheel though......I have a concern about warping / melting that plastic, BECAUSE if you do you cannot replace the gear wheel......and if it is not absolutely " TRUE " ,,,it may work a few times , but either the motor will burn out or the gears will strip.......If you think the ARM is stressed ....that's nothing compared to the gear assembly............So far My cover is working well , I have about 800+ miles on the windshield since I put it on.....I hope this info helps anyone attempting this fix........................Mike :thumbup:

Hi Mike
Bill Ryan here I'm the guy sent you the assembly . I sent a reply to Deanna777 she had commented about Lake George and I wanted to know how things went this year. Just got a message from Chuck as well. I'm sorry to say it was not in the cards for me this year. Maybe next year if there is another. I know Ron was hesitant after the first one but maybe it is additive. Hope you all had a good time.

Magdave
10-05-2014, 10:22 AM
Where do you get the replacement arm?

On eBay he is supposed to be working with Bajaron to get them vended on here. He only had a limited supply on eBay.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/251628654594?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Bob Denman
10-05-2014, 05:40 PM
Thanks for posting this information! I've got my "NoBoot" piece here in my desk... If the time comes; I'll give a link to this thread to my technician at my dealership; they've promised to help make some "Magic" happen... :D

noboot
10-07-2014, 05:12 PM
:clap:.....Thank you for taking the time to present this information and doing it in such a professional manner :thumbup:. As you and some others here may remember I have had some experience with this issue. I made a steel cover for a broken one that I got from a fellow Spyderlover, ( BILL RYAN ) and swapped it for the one on my 2014 RT. ...Actually I had to swap the entire Platform with the arm assembly. Because His ARM wouldn't work properly on My Platform ( the large blk plastic piece everything attaches to) ........I did discover that when putting the ARM back into it's fitting ( on the platform ) it didn't matter about where it was marked ....it always went up and down and stopped where it was supposed to, no matter how I placed it in it's fitting ......Somehow the magnetic TRIGGER and the computer are linked because it always worked as designed .....And when it comes from the factory IMHO the ARM and PLATFORM are linked ......and you cannot exchange or swap ARM assemblies with different PLATFORMS ......At least this was my experience.............Getting the GEAR wheel off the Shaft ( as stated above ) is going to be a challenge to say the least......I have made two attempts on my original ARM ( I use this to make steel covers ) , without success. I did not use HEAT on the gear wheel though......I have a concern about warping / melting that plastic, BECAUSE if you do you cannot replace the gear wheel......and if it is not absolutely " TRUE " ,,,it may work a few times , but either the motor will burn out or the gears will strip.......If you think the ARM is stressed ....that's nothing compared to the gear assembly............So far My cover is working well , I have about 800+ miles on the windshield since I put it on.....I hope this info helps anyone attempting this fix........................Mike :thumbup:

Hi there,

With My replacement bracket I supply a set of "wedges" or Shims to enable you to progressively push the gear wheel (we call it a worm wheel) back off the shaft. We also looked at heat but too much can go wrong.

Cheers, noboot

BLUEKNIGHT911
10-07-2014, 07:07 PM
Hi there,

With My replacement bracket I supply a set of "wedges" or Shims to enable you to progressively push the gear wheel (we call it a worm wheel) back off the shaft. We also looked at heat but too much can go wrong.

Cheers, noboot
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:....... This winter when the Spyder is put to bed so to speak :dontknow: .... I will make some wedges and try again...... My feeling is, when BRP designed this assembly they had no intention of either them or anyone else taking it apart.... That is why It's sold as a complete unit ( which IMHO is total BS ) but what do I know: lecturef_smilie: :roflblack: ................. Mike :thumbup:

thomasag
10-12-2014, 11:14 AM
I am another who has replaced the RT windshield actuating arm with the one made by Ron Piggott in Australia. It is beautifully made and fitted perfectly.

Unfortunately, I had great difficulty in removing the plastic worm wheel. I tried to use the wedges but only succeeded in damaging the end of the boss on the gear. Since this is a bearing that was not good. I devised a different removal method which worked and so I thought that I would pass it on in case anyone else needs to do it. I drilled a hole in a piece of 3/8 inch thick steel bar. The hole was the same size as the dimension across the corners of the hexagonal shaft. I cannot remember the drill size and I am not at home now but it is easily measured. I then cut the bar through the center of the hole to create two pieces which can be used to clamp the assembly vertically in the vise. I removed the scroll pins from the old arm and slid it up against the end of the worm wheel. Then I mounted the assembly in the vise with the split bar clamp positioned 1/16 inch above the end with the magnet, clamping it very tightly since I did not want it to slide and damage the magnet end. Aluminum would be easier to drill and cut but I was not confident that it would provide the amount of grip which I needed. Possible slight damage to the hexagonal bar at this point would not matter. Then, I used the wedges positioned between the steel clamp and the end of the old arm to push the old arm upwards against the end of the worm wheel. It moved and then it was easier to continue to remove it. Since the old arm had a full diameter contact on the end of the worm wheel no further damage was done. I was able to clean up the end of the worm wheel bearing boss using a Swiss file and careful measurement. I was surprised that the hexagonal bar showed no marks of damage from where I clamped it and I think it must be made of quite good material.

BRP should be ashamed that they have not redesigned this part to eliminate a persistent and dangerous failure.

Alan.

Orange Spyder Man
10-16-2014, 03:36 PM
I think once BRP gets dragged to court .. and have to pay out millions for an injury or death for a "known defect" they will prolly do something about the cracking windshield bracket.. not to mention how much money lost from people not buying their products...

noboot
10-17-2014, 11:48 PM
I have posted this video on another thread but I guess it can't help to have it in two places.

Went to a friends place the other day, he wanted to try and install his replacement Windscreen bracket so I took along the video camera. Came up with this Video of how to install your replacment bracket. It's a bit rough around the edges but it's a first attempt at doing a video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ62VCiIe70&feature=em-upload_owner


cheers noboot

ThreeWheels
10-18-2014, 08:16 AM
I have posted this video on another thread but I guess it can't help to have it in two places.

Went to a friends place the other day, he wanted to try and install his replacement Windscreen bracket so I took along the video camera. Came up with this Video of how to install your replacment bracket. It's a bit rough around the edges but it's a first attempt at doing a video.


cheers noboot

Very nice Ron !!!
If a picture is worth 1000 words, a video is worth 1000 pictures.

Thanks so much.

BLUEKNIGHT911
10-20-2014, 11:13 AM
Hi there,

With My replacement bracket I supply a set of "wedges" or Shims to enable you to progressively push the gear wheel (we call it a worm wheel) back off the shaft. We also looked at heat but too much can go wrong.

Cheers, noboot............................................ ..........I finally accomplished the gear wheel removal......I didn't have wedges .....I made a tool using a 3/16 th thick steel bar that I drilled a 3/8 hole then cut out a slot and "V'd" the hole to match the HEX.........I secured the ARM in a vise and used the tool against the MAGNET END and slowly tapped it off ............It came off much easier than the GEAR WHEEL ....................MY question to you is WHY didn't you take the Magnet end off ??????.....Mike :thumbup:

noboot
10-20-2014, 04:13 PM
.................................................. ....I finally accomplished the gear wheel removal......I didn't have wedges .....I made a tool using a 3/16 th thick steel bar that I drilled a 3/8 hole then cut out a slot and "V'd" the hole to match the HEX.........I secured the ARM in a vise and used the tool against the MAGNET END and slowly tapped it off ............It came off much easier than the GEAR WHEEL ....................MY question to you is WHY didn't you take the Magnet end off ??????.....Mike :thumbup:

Yep! Fair comment. Once we came up with the "Wedges" or "Shims" we decided it was safer to remove the Gear wheel than the magnet end to the proximity switch. There was more room for leverage on the wheel than on the magnet end. Maybe when we do the next one we'll have another look at the magnet end. Although with every arm I am now supplying a set of wedges included and they appear to be working as intended. We did another RT last weekend and let the owner do most of it himself and the wedges worked fine. Can't stress how important it is to mark all the points indicated in the video so the arm goes back in exactly as it came out otherwise you may find it doesn't go up and down correctly.

If you are happy to remove the magnet end are confident in not damaging it or the hex shaft, do so as removing one end would be as good as the other.
Cheers, ron

obiwan57
10-21-2014, 07:03 AM
I also just purchased this bracket for my 2014 RTS...I have a F4 larger windshield and I live in PA, noted for pot holed roads...So to be ready for when the cracks start I purchased this QUALITY replacement part...GREAT SERVICE and a QUALITY PART from Ron Piggott...larryd
May I ask where you got the billet arm? I'd like to get one!

Magdave
10-21-2014, 09:13 AM
May I ask where you got the billet arm? I'd like to get one!
noboot was selling them on ebay but he only had a few. I believe he is working with Bajaron on getting them distributed here in the USA. :thumbup:

BLUEKNIGHT911
10-21-2014, 09:17 AM
May I ask where you got the billet arm? I'd like to get one!
:yikes:......You ask questions ....and have gotten answers here .............But don't indicate that you have followed up,..... so therefore :dontknow:.........Mike :thumbup:

noboot
11-16-2014, 03:17 PM
Last Weekend We had our annual SPYDER ROYALE which is the equivalent to the USA SPYDERFEST (but in a lot smaller way) and we found eleven (11) RT's with cracked Windscreen arms. Maybe our roads down under are a lot harder on the Spyders

noboot
12-15-2014, 03:35 PM
I have my Alloy arm listed on e-bay if anyone is interested in a purchase as I have not yet secured a vendor within the USA to sell them.

sscheuer47
12-15-2014, 04:53 PM
I too have this aftermarket arm just in case. Not knowing how long this part would be available I ordered. It just amazes me that the company has not yet changed this part. I suppose you just have to follow the money. Too costly for BRP or is it something else?

BLUEKNIGHT911
12-15-2014, 05:06 PM
Yep! Fair comment. Once we came up with the "Wedges" or "Shims" we decided it was safer to remove the Gear wheel than the magnet end to the proximity switch. There was more room for leverage on the wheel than on the magnet end. Maybe when we do the next one we'll have another look at the magnet end. Although with every arm I am now supplying a set of wedges included and they appear to be working as intended. We did another RT last weekend and let the owner do most of it himself and the wedges worked fine. Can't stress how important it is to mark all the points indicated in the video so the arm goes back in exactly as it came out otherwise you may find it doesn't go up and down correctly.

If you are happy to remove the magnet end are confident in not damaging it or the hex shaft, do so as removing one end would be as good as the other.
Cheers, ron
:yes::yes:.........Ron, I went a step farther on the wedge thing.....I made a pair which are slotted in the middle to go around the HEX shaft.......I then put them in a vise opposing each other with the HEX shaft in the middle ......As I close the vise it gently slides the MAGNET END off.....I actually tried both ends , but the magnet end goes off much easier because there is a lot less surface contact therefore less friction.......Works like a charm................Mike :thumbup:

Dragonrider
02-05-2015, 02:09 PM
Just a shameless bump to keep this this thread near the top of the list.... it's important.

noboot
02-06-2015, 01:10 AM
Just a short note: I have one left at the moment be 3 or 4 weeks before I have anymore.

Dragonrider
02-06-2015, 11:31 AM
Noboot - thanks for doing this! Having your windshield flop in your face 1300 miles from home is not a fun experience, and several on SL can attest to.

noboot
02-06-2015, 04:11 PM
Dragonrider,
That is the only reason We make these replacement arms is the safety factor. There is no profit in them as the hours put into making them doesn't equal the cost.

The same here in Australia we have had a few break at speed and the danger and risk of an accident is high.

One of the side products of the new arm is less flex in the windscreen as well.

Cheers, noboot

noboot
03-09-2015, 02:51 PM
Just a shameless bump to keep this this thread near the top of the list.... it's important.

MikeT
03-21-2015, 08:01 AM
Seems to me there's "an elephant in the room". WHY DOESN"T BRP RESPOND TO THIS SAFETY ISSUE WITH A STRONGER ARM??????????????????????

Purple Guy
03-21-2015, 09:15 AM
Very informative thread!
Thanks to all that participated! :thumbup:

noboot
05-25-2015, 06:00 PM
Just a shameless bump to keep this this thread near the top of the list.... it's important.

BLUEKNIGHT911
05-25-2015, 10:56 PM
FWIW, I had the windscreen support off recently. Oddly, the brass bushings, (3 of them) had corroded into the bores. Was able to draw them out with spacers and a longer screw.

More important than the corrosion though, was that the bushing lengths are short and it is possible (no I did not do this) to crush and distort the hinge tabs on the windscreen support if the screws are tightened. Since these screws can not be made tight, they must be Loctited.

PK
A combination of salt air and dissimilar metals......Also if your windshield rattles / shakes etc., I have a " hollow punch " set and made some very thin washers from the plastic top of a Kool Whip container. I put one each on the outside of the upper arms and my windshield no longer rattles. The plastic is very slippery so it's self lubricating ........Mike :thumbup:

BLUEKNIGHT911
05-26-2015, 08:39 AM
Mike, salt air is the least of the issue in my opinion. Yes, galvanic corrosion from three different metals, brass bushing, stainless screw and washer and pot aluminum windsceen V shaped mount, but what is worse is that with the oem bushing being short the water remains trapped in the voids under the washer. Even worse than that is if you use even the slightest amount of grease, the Loctite does not work if the holes are polluted. The corrosion likely occurred from the aluminum to stainless which easily happens, and the effected area would be directly under gap between the brass bushings end and the washer.

This was the first removal of the windscreen mount since new. So about 14 months of use.

As for the additional plastic washer, the area of concern uses flanged plastic bushing if I recall correctly, so I should be good there.

I'll sort something out to correct this minor concern. Probably order some brass rod and make new bushings in the lathe. Just to many other things going on currently.

I should get a billet center arm and do this all at once. Reliability is a good thing.

PK

In Vt salt air is not in the mix....I've had mine apart recently ( to fix the rattle ) and I have NO corrosion. That's why I thought the Salt Air might be an issue. Sorry......:thumbup:

jwulf74
05-26-2015, 10:20 AM
So...I like the billet arm, but then it doesn't match the other 2 arms... any plans on making the other 2 arms so they match forc aesthetic purposes?

68vette
05-26-2015, 01:39 PM
We were all packed for the long weekend and 30 miles into our ride to the mountains. I hear her over the intercom something broke on my windshield. Sure enough the support arm on the her 2012 RT had snapped. We turn round and head home. She had no desire to ride on the FJR so everything went into the car. Got home last night to search this site and found this info and placed an order.
Taking the bike into the shop to confirm if it will be covered under the extended warranty. I will have this as a spare if it is covered. If not I will be doing a bit of work on the existing unit.

BLUEKNIGHT911
05-26-2015, 02:59 PM
So...I like the billet arm, but then it doesn't match the other 2 arms... any plans on making the other 2 arms so they match forc aesthetic purposes?

REALLY...This is your concern with this issue......not the fact that if the ARM breaks it will cost you $ 750 + to fix it if it's not under Warranty............I'm sorry for the RANT but this attitude totally blows my mind :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: .......Mike :thumbup:

jwulf74
05-27-2015, 03:58 PM
REALLY...This is your concern with this issue......not the fact that if the ARM breaks it will cost you $ 750 + to fix it if it's not under Warranty............I'm sorry for the RANT but this attitude totally blows my mind :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: :yikes: .......Mike :thumbup:


If it ends up being something I eventually have to fix, I want it done right and not have it look like a mismatched after thought...

BLUEKNIGHT911
05-27-2015, 04:41 PM
If it ends up being something I eventually have to fix, I want it done right and not have it look like a mismatched after thought...

You Sir are apparently someone who demands PERFECTION SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, why do you even own a Spyder .....:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:: roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbl ack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::r oflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbla ck::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::ro flblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblac k::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::rof lblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack ::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::rofl black::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflb lack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:: roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbl ack::roflblack:.......Mike :thumbup:

noboot
05-28-2015, 04:13 PM
I do know of some guys that have undercoated and painted my Billet arm to match the colour of their Spyder.

Also we are now planning (very slowly) to make up a three (3) arm kit as there has been one case here in Australia where one of the side arms did a fair amount of damage at the same time as the centre arm snapped at highway speed.

jwulf74
05-28-2015, 06:56 PM
Awesome! I will be watching for the 3 arm kit. Our center arms are ok currently though I need to check them again. Hopefully I won't need them until you have your kit ready (or beyond... who knows, they may never break, or break tomorrow ;))



I do know of some guys that have undercoated and painted my Billet arm to match the colour of their Spyder.

Also we are now planning (very slowly) to make up a three (3) arm kit as there has been one case here in Australia where one of the side arms did a fair amount of damage at the same time as the centre arm snapped at highway speed.

jwulf74
05-28-2015, 06:57 PM
My Spyder is perfect... dunno what's up with everyone else's... :rolleyes: :roflblack:



You Sir are apparently someone who demands PERFECTION SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, why do you even own a Spyder .....:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:: roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbl ack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::r oflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbla ck::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::ro flblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblac k::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::rof lblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack ::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::rofl black::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflb lack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:: roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflbl ack::roflblack:.......Mike :thumbup:

Oldmanzues
06-20-2015, 02:07 PM
I thought my 2010 RT was fine until Friday. Arm broke completely apart. Talked to the dealer a couple hours ago, updated/redesigned part for $600. Only a hour labor to put in was their answer on installation. All on me so far, but the dealer is seeing what they can do
Anybody come with anything different or latest information. I could not do the work to use the arm talked about here and I am concerned labor would eat up any savings.
26 k on Spyder,
Oldmanzues

noboot
06-20-2015, 05:50 PM
I am interested to see what the "updated / redesigned part looks like especially for $600. Seems terribly expensive to me.

Maybe the dealer has purchased one of my Billet arms and selling it at a very big profit :-)

Ronsam
06-20-2015, 06:19 PM
When you replace the arm , you do not need to remove the gear .Remove the bushing very simple.

I have the arm welded all over for $ 20.00. They need to sandblast the arm first.

I use chrome paint. It looks like new

It took me one hour and half to do remove the arm and to install it.


Very simple job to do:clap:






You may have seen this in the regular threads. I thought I'd clean this up, add some more info, and include it as a separate post for those interested. I know, I'm being a little pretentious.
I'm surprised at how little attention there is in this arm outside of this forum. I guess it really isn't as big of a deal as I had originally thought.

For those who aren't familiar with the issue, here's what all the hubbub is about.
There are three mechanical arms used to control the motion of the windshield on the Spyder RT. Two of the arms (left and right) are not powered and just guide the windshield into position.
The center arm, the mechanized control arm, is powered and provides the motive force to raise and lower the windshield.

When this mechanized control arm breaks, the windshield drops and lays down on top of the dashboard. The guide arms don't seem to let go, so it's unlikely the windshield will fall off and hit someone, but when you are at speed, the resultant blast of air can take one by surprise and cause a real "Uh-Oh!!!!" moment that tends to leave skid marks in your shorts.

The control arm is not available as a separate unit from BRP. You have to purchase the entire windshield drive mechanism from BRP to get a new control arm. The cost of the repair is somewhere in the $700 range, most of that cost is in purchasing the new drive mechanism. If this happens within the 2 year OEM warranty, BRP will pick up the replacement cost. If it happens after the 2 year warranty, the owner has to pick up the entire cost, even if the Spyder is covered under the BEST warranty.

On my 2010 RT, I had two windshield control arms break and consequently two complete new windshield drive mechanisms, all paid for by BRP.
Each of these arms lasted roughly 13,000 miles. I traded my 2010 RT in at about 30,000 miles.
Sadly, the new 2014 RT has exactly the same design control arm. In my opinion, it's unlikely the 2014 control arm will be more reliable.

An alternate billet aluminum arm is now available that replaces only the OEM control arm.
This requires dis-assembly of the windshield drive mechanism, something that is clearly outside the normal scope of BRP repair.
When installed, the new billet arm is expected to outlast the Spyder.
I chose to install the billet aluminum arm as a preventive measure, rather than wait for my OEM arm to fail.

Here is a photo of my second arm that was cracked and replaced before a catastrophic failure.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=77838&d=1382220096

Here are two catastrophic failures. This next picture I have shamelessly stolen from Teddy's Dave (CyncySpyder)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96292&d=1412292900


This next picture I have, again shamelessly stolen from eddieshep999

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96291&d=1412292879

There have been many other failures posted. I don't know how many in total. I'd guesstimate as much as 5% based in CyncySpyder's poll

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?34743-WARNING-FOR-ALL-RT-OWNERS-*-You-may-want-to-check-this-on-your-machine&highlight=warning

Here is a photo of the billet arm that I received.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94731&d=1410003074

I’d like to say a hearty Thank You to two people:
First, noboot (Ron) for making these beautiful works of art. As sturdy as they are beautiful. I understand there is a move afoot to have these arms available through one of the established vendors here on this site.

Second is John (JRWW). I had contacted JRWW who had installed the billet arm himself. He was able to give me some general directions to follow and a few keen pointers, some of which I neglected, much to my detriment. I will quote parts of his email at appropriate times

The billet arm is exactly that, a single piece of metal. Manufactured by cutting away unwanted material from one piece of aluminum. There are no welds to fail, nor is there any grain such as the pressed metal OEM pieces. The existing arm has often times proven inferior.
My 2010 went through two of these arms and a friend of mine surprisingly had his arm fail as well.
Talking with others, it seems the Florida contingent has no problems with these arms. It may well be that only those in the Northeast (AKA potholes) have reliability issues.

I photographed everything, mostly so I would know how to reassemble things.

First, remove the windshield and the windshield support. This comes out pretty easily with just a few bolts and bushings. This takes about 15 minutes.
Next, remove the fascia around the windshield operating arms to get to the one we want to replace.
There are two screws on the top, take them out.
You have to take off the mirrors, both left and right upper panels and the fascia around the headlights to get to all the bolts to remove the windshield fascia. This doesn’t take a long time.
At this point we’re about an hour into the project.
Now that the windshield mechanism is exposed, you need to start removing the arm from the mechanism in order to replace it.

Next is a photo of the windshield mechanism exposed with the OEM arm in place.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94732&d=1410003123

At this point, I’ll quote John:

"Gidday Steven,
I'll try and explain as best I can from memory, now been awhile since I did this. Once all the Tupperware is removed the tricky bit is prying the top plastic parts either side of the arm apart. They are glued down and after you remove the screws, use a flat bladed screwdriver, I gently tapped it between the top and bottom section, it takes a bit of force to break the glue and mine went flying across my workshop. Then the arm lifts out, make sure you mark the position of the arm on either side before removing. The next difficult part is removing the arm from the shaft, on one end is a magnet, put some tape over it so you don't lose it. I placed the arm in a bench vice to remove a pin that locks the arm in place. I sacrificed a small drill of the same size to tap it out, make sure you don't damage the hexagonal shaft in anyway as you won't get the new arm on. Then using a hair dyer to heat the toothed plastic wheel I used a small open ended spanner slightly bigger than the shaft placed on the wheel and very gently tapped the spanner with a hammer to remove the wheel. Did I mention gently!!!!! Take your time here!!!! Apply plenty of heat and take your time. Once you have the wheel removed then with a rubber mallet gently tap the hexagonal shaft out of the old arm. Again take your time and be gentle!!! The installation of the new arm is just the reverse, make sure the hole in the arm lines up with the hole in the shaft to replace the metal pin. Forgot to mention I had real difficulty in removing two of the screws on one side of the plastic holding the arm in place, ended up removing with multi grips and destroying the head, so went to my local bolt place and bought new bolts with Allen key head. Also once you have put the arm back in place and fitted everything, start your bike and operate the electric button to ensure the arm moves up and down without any issues. If you mark the position as I mentioned everything should be fine. Best of luck and let me know how you go.
Regards
John"

The arm/shaft/gear can be removed from the lifting mechanism without removing the mechanism from the Spyder.
I removed the screws that hold the top part of the plastic pieces in place. In both cases, the lower screw could be removed easily. I broke the heads off the upper screws. The plastic pieces came off with no problem at all. No, or little glue.
Removing the arm assembly was quite easy, and I was left with the next biggest problem. Removing the plastic gear to make way for removing and replacing the arm. There is a small screw at the end of the gear that retains the gear on the shaft. This needs to be removed. The head is a small phillips head, which I promptly stripped. I used a hacksaw to cut a new slot for a straight bladed screwdriver and carefully removed the screw.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=95653&d=1411321330

I tried the spanner (wrench) trick John spoke of with one minor difference. Rather than putting the wrench around the plastic shaft of the gear, I put the wrench around the sprocket and began rapping. This was not wise. Not much happened, so I continue to rap with increasing force until I finally broke the gear. I should have paid more attention to the "gently" part.
Once the gear was broken, it was much easier getting the plastic shaft off the main shaft. I understand Ron is now including wedges in his kit to help with uninstalling the plastic gear.

Next is a photo of the broken gear.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94733&d=1410003172


So, now I had to fix the gear. I degreased the plastic parts and got out Devcon Plastic Welder, my go to glue for all things plastic from ABS to Styrene. It glues everything except polypropylene. If you ever use it, one safety tip: The instructions say “Use in a well ventilated area”. They aren’t kidding. This stuff is great, but it smells very bad. This glue forms a chemical bond with the plastic, so it's much stronger than a simple glue.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94738&d=1410003954

An hour later, the gear is repaired. I used one of my miniature screw drivers as a punch and hammered it to remove the pins on the old arm. I removed the old arm, installed the new arm reusing the pins and reinstalled the now repaired gear. I had to use a hammer to rap the plastic gear back into place. The outside diameter of the new arm is a little bigger than the old arm. When re-installing the pins, keep this in mind to try to install the pins to get maximum grip from both ends of the pin. Also remember to transfer the bushings from the old arm to the new arm.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94734&d=1410003243


Please note the plastic repair to the gear. I filled in the entire void space with glue, so instead of the 1/16" ring mounting the gear to the plastic shaft, now there is 3/8" of plastic mounting the gear to the plastic shaft. I was careful to make sure the gear was square to the shaft before the glue set. I'm confident that the plastic gear is now stronger than it was in its original configuration.

Here is another picture of the final assembly of the shaft. Notice the holes in the arm with the pins installed. You can clearly see that Ron has stamped the word "TOP" into the billet arm as another means to ensure the correct alignment.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94735&d=1410003291

I put the gear shaft and arm in place and locked it down with only one screw in each of the plastic retainers. I used the up and down buttons to cycle the mechanism and make sure it worked properly before I fully reassembled everything. You just need to make sure that you put the arm back in the same position you took it out from so the magnet lines up. The magnet is what controls the position of the arm. I used my favorite glue again to fill the screw holes of the broken screws to make sure the plastic parts stay in place tightly. This is very important. In my opinion, the control arm breaks because it is absorbing the energy from the twisting or bouncing motion of the windshield. The absorbed energy is what breaks the arm. The new arm doesn’t absorb the energy; it is strong enough that it just transmits the energy to the rest of the mechanism, so be sure the plastic parts are all locked down firmly, even if you need to use additional glue. This will ensure that other parts of the mechanism are strong enough to support the load of the bouncing windshield.

Next is a picture of the new arm assembled into the lifting mechanism.
Notice the two new screws in the upper holes of the plastic hold down pieces. These are also glued in place for additional strength.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94736&d=1410003340




http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94737&d=1410003389

After re-installing the front fascia, I ran the arm up and down again to make sure it operated properly.

All told, going from old arm to new arm took about 4 hours, and that included an extra 90 minutes figuring things out and repairing all the stuff I broke. Figure about 2 and a half hours if most goes well. I waited another 6 hours or so before I put the windshield support and windshield back in place to allow all the glued pieces to reach maximum strength before use.

I've had the new arm on for 1500 miles now. No operational issues with the lifting mechanism at all.

BLUEKNIGHT911
06-20-2015, 08:59 PM
Ronsam.......In your post you refer to " bushing "....are you talking about the " black piece with the Magnet " in it ???...........because if you are I posted that way of doing it a long time ago.......I am very curious about the WELDING you had done. The material BRP uses to make the ARM does not appear to be ...WELDABLE ????.................Mike :thumbup:

Ronsam
06-20-2015, 09:35 PM
Yes you can weld it . You need to sandblast first . I just weld my arm. If you do not sandblast the weld explode and you can not weld it. I will tried to add some photo next time

Thanks





Ronsam.......In your post you refer to " bushing "....are you talking about the " black piece with the Magnet " in it ???...........because if you are I posted that way of doing it a long time ago.......I am very curious about the WELDING you had done. The material BRP uses to make the ARM does not appear to be ...WELDABLE ????.................Mike :thumbup:

Ronsam
06-20-2015, 10:01 PM
Photos. I hope it work. Mike

Thanks











Ronsam.......In your post you refer to " bushing "....are you talking about the " black piece with the Magnet " in it ???...........because if you are I posted that way of doing it a long time ago.......I am very curious about the WELDING you had done. The material BRP uses to make the ARM does not appear to be ...WELDABLE ????.................Mike :thumbup:

BLUEKNIGHT911
06-20-2015, 10:57 PM
Photos. I hope it work. Mike

Thanks

That's amazing.....was this done with a rod ( ie arc welded ) and if so what type of metal was the rod made of ???....... mike :thumbup:

Ronsam
06-20-2015, 11:15 PM
I did not ask them. I will next week Mike





That's amazing.....was this done with a rod ( ie arc welded ) and if so what type of metal was the rod made of ???....... mike :thumbup:

ThreeWheels
06-21-2015, 12:58 AM
Yes you can weld it . You need to sandblast first . I just weld my arm. If you do not sandblast the weld explode and you can not weld it. I will tried to add some photo next time

Thanks


Nicely done. Nicely done indeed !

ThreeWheels
06-21-2015, 01:08 AM
I do know of some guys that have undercoated and painted my Billet arm to match the colour of their Spyder.

Also we are now planning (very slowly) to make up a three (3) arm kit as there has been one case here in Australia where one of the side arms did a fair amount of damage at the same time as the centre arm snapped at highway speed.

Would you be able to make up a kit for the two guide arms for those of us who have already changed out the center arm ?

Incidentally, the "New And Improved" BRP part doesn't change the center arm. The improvement modifies the screws that hold the center arm to the windshield.

I had this modification made to my 2014 RT during my last service. The technician at the shop was very impressed with the quality of noboot's (Ron's) center arm. He's sure it will outlast the Spyder.

ThreeWheels
06-21-2015, 01:30 AM
We were all packed for the long weekend and 30 miles into our ride to the mountains. I hear her over the intercom something broke on my windshield. Sure enough the support arm on the her 2012 RT had snapped. We turn round and head home. She had no desire to ride on the FJR so everything went into the car. Got home last night to search this site and found this info and placed an order.
Taking the bike into the shop to confirm if it will be covered under the extended warranty. I will have this as a spare if it is covered. If not I will be doing a bit of work on the existing unit.

This can be a serious safety issue. I had my first arm snap at 60 MPH. When that happens, the next few moments are not for the feint of heart.
Now that BRP has solved the 2013 heat issue, I hope they turn their attention to this. It should be pretty easy, they just need to have their sub-supplier make the change.

BRP Care..................have you been following this at all ?

Oldmanzues
06-21-2015, 08:58 AM
I am interested to see what the "updated / redesigned part looks like especially for $600. Seems terribly expensive to me.

Maybe the dealer has purchased one of my Billet arms and selling it at a very big profit :-)

I do not think so. He looked it up in his Service manual. According to him, there have been two upgrades since the original, no idea what they were except to increase the cost from 400 or so to 600 for the part. Apparently the whole assembly has to be replaced, including a electrical module. I think that is pretty high for is a design fault in my opinion.
Oldmanzues

noboot
06-21-2015, 04:15 PM
I still stand by my Billet arm, it gives the entire windscreen more stability and that's half the problem, the shuddering of the windscreen while riding causes the arm to fatigue and break.

noboot
08-30-2015, 02:20 AM
I still have some avaiable

Troublemaker1
08-31-2015, 12:23 PM
Hey Guy's did anyone do a video of removing the Tupperware around the windshield base? there is at least one or two on re-placing the arm but they all start with the TW removed.

Steve

noboot
08-31-2015, 04:07 PM
Not that I know of but you start at the mirrors, then wind deflectors, front panel where they plug your BUDS into and then just keep finding the screws.

noboot
11-17-2015, 09:21 PM
I still have these arms if anyone is interested. Check your RT windscreen arm and if cracked, let me know

Troublemaker1
12-28-2015, 09:38 AM
Hey guy's thanks for all the know how on how to do the change. got it done about three weeks ago and fixed all my mistakes last week end. apparently you can put it on backwards even with the marks on it, and the blue grease can remove the mark that you carefully placed on the gear. After about three disassembles and re-assembles I finely got it right by sliding the magnet off and re-clocking it to the next hex flat.
if I did this again I'd pay more attention to the directions.


Troublemaker

noboot
12-28-2015, 03:53 PM
Sorry to hear you had some hassles putting it on. And yes there is only one way of fitting it and backwards won't work.
The Instructions may not be as explicit as they should be (the video helps a lot) but as I am just a Spyder Ryder like the rest of us I tried as best as I could to explain the process of fitting the replacement arm.

On another short note I seen on the Forum some people were plastic coating their OEM Windscreen arm. I find that very concerning because we know these things tend to crack & break and with it "hidden" under plastic they are not going to get an early signs.

eddieshep999
12-29-2015, 09:28 AM
Noboot Ref the question :-

Would you be able to make up a kit for the two guide arms for those of us who have already changed out the center arm ?

Has any progress been made on this suggestion or have you decided against doing this, Having had you middle bracket on my Spyder for over 2 years (Moved from my previous Spyder when I upgraded from the v twin to the triple) there is no sign of wear, The windshield is much more stable it would just Finnish off the looks so much better than those 2 dull looking
side brackets
I would be prepared to purchase a set

Troublemaker1
12-29-2015, 09:30 AM
No worries Mate,

Your directions were fine, the problem came when the mark on the gear turned out to be gone. and me trying to figure out top. the wedges worked great. the gear was kind of stubborn going back on so I used a spark plug socket and one of your spacers to cover the magnet end to slowly force it back on.

It's a great product and I wish I'd thought of it.


Steve

Empty Pockets
04-03-2016, 12:11 PM
Does anyone happen to know where these are available now? The eBay

listing (251674757681) has been removed, or this item is not available

thanks

GadgetGuy442
04-03-2016, 12:14 PM
Ron (aka "noboot") sells them. I just got mine and it's a fantastic product! Send him a private message.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Empty Pockets
04-03-2016, 12:16 PM
Ron (aka "noboot") sells them. I just got mine and it's a fantastic product! Send him a private message.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks

Empty Pockets
04-15-2016, 11:59 PM
Received The new windshield arm from Ron (Noboot). Got the arm installed following Ron's video. The wedge kit that he supplies with the arm was excellent made the sprocket come off with ease. The install was a fairly simple process. The quality of the arm is first rate. I would recommend that everyone switch out the OEM arm to Ron's arm especially if you have an oversized windshield. It would also be a good idea to swap it out prior to the OEM arm breaking. Or at least have one on hand so when the OEM one does break you will be able to swap it out quickly. Shipping from Australia was very quick it was in my hand within five days from when it was ordered.

Thanks Ron!👍

GadgetGuy442
04-16-2016, 05:37 AM
I fully agree with Empty Pockets. Don't wait until your's breaks.

I was thinking mine wasn't ever going to, as I'd accumulated 53,500 miles on my 2010 and it hadn't broken. Then I noticed more wobble in the windshield than normal on a recent ride, and next time out it failed a few hundred feet from my home (thankfully). When it breaks, your done riding.

I took a few rides with no windshield and came to appreciate the wind protection and forces the windshield has to deal with.

When I got Ron's billet arm and took the old broken one out and compared them side by side, there is NO COMPARISON! The strength, quality and capability of his product is fantastic. The original part feels like a piece of styrofoam compared to the billet aluminum.

I took my first ride with the new arm and windshield was stable like never before. I rode with great confidence that this part will outlast every other part on the bike. I'm so thankful for this component and the saving over the POC $700 replacement from BRP would have cost.

Don't wait until yours breaks! SERIOUSLY!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/e0ebc0583849a1c1d461242f9be6c131.jpg

Thanks Ron (noboot) for a great product!

Bill


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GadgetGuy442
04-18-2016, 10:44 AM
PMK..... You are wise to do it on your own timeline rather than on it's timeline!

Bill


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Coreythebody
06-15-2016, 02:05 PM
Mine snapped this morning, luckily at a relatively low speed, but nonetheless, got my attention real quick.

Called the dealership, was told that my warranty expired in March (3 months ago), so I am out of luck. The part here is over $700 Cdn not including labour... they suggested calling BRP and seeing what, if anything they will do about it. problem is, I do not want the same pos part replaced, so I sent a PM to noboot this morning, hopefully he has one in stock and can get it here soonest.

I did a temp fix with some epoxy and a fairly robust hose clamp, so I can at least get home after work...

Lagaffe
06-15-2016, 02:52 PM
Just ordered one billet arm today... As a spare part.

ThreeWheels
06-15-2016, 04:47 PM
Just ordered one billet arm today... As a spare part.

You may consider replacing it at your earliest convenience. Do you keep spare brake pads so you can replace the brakes when they fail ? It's a really important Preventive Maintenance.

Just my opinion. I could be wrong, and I'm sure someone here will let me know about it.

noboot
06-15-2016, 06:35 PM
It all happens at once. I have had 7 enquiries for replacement arms this week ,,,, in Canada, USA, New Zealand and all over Australia, how crazy is that.

Lagaffe
06-15-2016, 08:14 PM
You may consider replacing it at your earliest convenience. Do you keep spare brake pads so you can replace the brakes when they fail ? It's a really important Preventive Maintenance.

Just my opinion. I could be wrong, and I'm sure someone here will let me know about it.


Excuse my bad english, i'm french speaking.

An old mechanic told me years ago... If it's not broken, dont touch it ! :-)

I'm more than 600 miles away from the nearest BRP dealer and beleive me i always have a full brake pads set spare at home.

ThreeWheels
06-16-2016, 05:02 AM
Excuse my bad english, i'm french speaking.

An old mechanic told me years ago... If it's not broken, dont touch it ! :-)

I'm more than 600 miles away from the nearest BRP dealer and beleive me i always have a full brake pads set spare at home.

I have nothing but respect for anyone who can speak more than one language.

Questions
06-28-2016, 04:10 PM
It all happens at once. I have had 7 enquiries for replacement arms this week ,,,, in Canada, USA, New Zealand and all over Australia, how crazy is that.
When someone does something wright, people take notice!

Questions
06-28-2016, 04:20 PM
Mine broke last weekend, luckily I was not going very fast but it was dark out and when the windshield fell flat on the dash it gave me and my wife quite a scare!
On Monday I called the only BRP dealer in Laval and was informed that I had to purchase the complete assembly. When The service rep told me the price I fell off my chair!!! I did what everyone one else has done and started searching the net for a solution. Being a mechanic for 25 years as now a trainer for 8 years I knew there would be a solution.

And it is Ron (Noboot) who is responsible for this. I have ordered his billeted arm. In the mean time I fixed my arm by welding it and then adding aluminium flat bars on each side with 3400psi epoxy resin.

Someone in this thread had made mention to the magnet at the oposite end of the gear on the shaft, this is a positioning sensor like a Hall-effect sensor and should not be removed or tampered with.

I will update with photos when I receive the new arm.

BLUEKNIGHT911
06-28-2016, 05:59 PM
Mine broke last weekend, luckily I was not going very fast but it was dark out and when the windshield fell flat on the dash it gave me and my wife quite a scare!
On Monday I called the only BRP dealer in Laval and was informed that I had to purchase the complete assembly. When The service rep told me the price I fell off my chair!!! I did what everyone one else has done and started searching the net for a solution. Being a mechanic for 25 years as now a trainer for 8 years I knew there would be a solution.

And it is Ron (Noboot) who is responsible for this. I have ordered his billeted arm. In the mean time I fixed my arm by welding it and then adding aluminium flat bars on each side with 3400psi epoxy resin.

Someone in this thread had made mention to the magnet at the oposite end of the gear on the shaft, this is a positioning sensor like a Hall-effect sensor and should not be removed or tampered with.

I will update with photos when I receive the new arm.
I moved the MAGNET and put it back and it works fine .................You do have to mark the SHAFT and the MAGNET and put it together to same way as it was.......The gear end is twice as difficult to get off and four times as likely to break......Good luck.......Mike :thumbup:

Questions
08-15-2016, 07:56 PM
Well I got in touch with Nobot and all I have to say is what a great experience it was dealing with someone that lives on the other side of the planet! the part was shipped to me within 4 days and it fit perfectly and the wedged tools were included. If only BRP was so efficient!!!! Thank you again Ron for the great part.

paraflyer1966
09-02-2016, 07:53 PM
Just had my windshield bracket break on the way home from dinner out with the wife this evening. Got home and immediately PM'd noboot.

Count me as another victim of lowest-bidder supply sources to BRP, I guess.

GadgetGuy442
09-02-2016, 07:58 PM
I truly believe every RT owner will eventually have this happen to them!

Get your replacement part and make the change BEFORE it breaks and messes up a trip you may be in the middle of when it decides to let go. When it does, it comes right back toward you with great force (especially if you're at highway speeds), and you could lose control. Then you have to figure out how to get home with the broken screen laying back in your face.

136911


Bill


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paraflyer1966
09-13-2016, 08:43 AM
Just had my windshield bracket break on the way home from dinner out with the wife this evening. Got home and immediately PM'd noboot.

Count me as another victim of lowest-bidder supply sources to BRP, I guess.

I can only say this:

THANK YOU NOBOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Part arrived yesterday morning; got home from work and got it installed (took me about 1.5 hours as I was being extra cautious/paranoid about cracking the plastic gear!). Ran out of daylight after getting the right-side body panels back on....I'l be able to get out of work a bit early today and finish up the job....then BACK ON THE ROAD!!!!

EDIT:

Spoke too soon; got the remaining body panels on, started ttrying to get the old brass bushings out of the actual windshield bracket.....aaaaand I hit a brick wall. The damn things are wedged in. I'd love to meet the engineer that designed this, no easy way to get wedges in there to pry the bushings out. And who the ^*&!@$#&^% came up with the idea of aluminum bracket, brass bushings, and steel screws?!?!?!?!?!?

If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

EDIT 2: Been doing some hunting on the web, looks like it's going to be a trip to Home Depot for metric screws, then try the "hammer it a bit and pull" method...

FINAL EDIT: Done! the hammer-and-pull method was the trick...and I couldn't believe how corroded it was (then again, this IS eastern Pennsylvania). Judicious application of 160-grit sandpaper, then a light machine oil, then introduce to the new bracket. All went back together well after that.

cptjam
02-10-2017, 03:32 AM
Have a customer with a broken windshield arm. Looking forward to the job!

noboot
02-10-2017, 04:49 PM
I still have a few on hand if anyone needs one

SpyderAnn01
02-10-2017, 06:20 PM
Have a customer with a broken windshield arm. Looking forward to the job!

The part has been ordered from NOBOOT, tracking info already received and the part should be here on Monday. Pretty good service!! Our customer has been riding around on an RT with no windshield for many months so I'm sure she also appreciates the quick service from NOBOOT

BrianO
03-15-2018, 03:00 PM
I still have a few on hand if anyone needs one

is SpyderAccessories selling your part now?

http://www.canamspyderaccessories.com/rt-replacement-arm-for-windshield-2010-2017/

Bike-O-Din
07-14-2018, 04:16 PM
It has been asked if the CanAmSpyderAccessories.com arm is equal to the one from NoBoot. Well, here is my report. (Caused by the breaking of the support arm on my 2011 RT-S)

It seems that Ron (NOBOOT) either does not have any more, or maybe they are several weeks out, and the eBay listing is expired, so I went with the SpyderAccessories version because of the turnaround time. It is more expensive (200 + shipping, but I had it in just a few days.

It DOES NOT COME WITH THE WEDGES TO REMOVE THE GEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This makes the install a lot more difficult to say the least. Getting the bike apart is not a problem, but getting that gear off of the shaft was nothing short of a monumental task. To start with, the head of the small screw at the end of the shaft broke off as soon as I tried to remove it. There is no information that says if that screw slips inside the gear and into a threaded part of the shaft or if the threads are also in the plastic part of the gear as well, but the gear did not move no matter what i tried. So I drilled out the screw, and still had no joy in getting the gear off. I tried to use the original arm as a "ram" to force off the pulley. I tried several ways to get some force the gear, but nothing seem to get it moving. Finally, I applied some heat and used a "punch" in the hole where the screw was and was able to drive the shaft out of the gear assembly. Not fun, and more than a bit nerve wracking. If I destroyed the thing, then I was looking at multiple hundreds of dollars for a new unit plus the cost of the new arm.

Re-assembly was not too bad, but..... The gear is shaped like the hex shaft inside, and fits just as tight when replacing it as it did taking it off. I think the screw is unnecessary (I hope), so I did not try to drill and tap the shaft but just pressed the gear back on the shaft. The shaft housing has a capped end, so there is nowhere for the gear to go even if does shift. Time will tell!!

The new arm does not allow for the use of the small plastic washers at the windshield end. No big deal as the new part fits better inside the support frame without the washers than the old one does with them!! The new arm also does not use the roll pins to hold it on the shaft. Instead, it uses a set screw with an allen head. The inside of the arm is cut to fit the hex shaft, so the set screw is only used to keep it from moving side to side.

There were no instructions or pictures with this setup. I forget what the size is for the allen wrench, but it comes from Canada, so it was metric. Nothing said I should, but I decided to add some locktite to this screw as I did not want to even think about looking for it if it came loose.

All in all, the product is really well made, and should outlast the bike.

I did post a review to SpyderAccessories, indicating that it would certainly be better if it came with some instructions, a note about the size of the allen wrench, and even better with the wedges!! It is a great product, but not a project for the faint of heart.

As an FYI: When the job was done, the windshield works great! In fact, it does not "wobble" near as much as the original because the tolerances between the arm and the windshield support frame are much tighter! Overall, I am pleased, and really thankful to be done with this project!! It took many hours, and a lot of experimenting, but is a big improvement over the original.

In the spirit of full disclosure: When prying the right side cap off of the shaft, it popped up and then disappeared down one of the many openings into the darkness of the front of the bike. It took nearly 2 hours of looking, removing panels that I had no original intention of removing, and mounting fears about what might be needed if I could not find it!! I eventually used a Ryobi Inspection camera attached to my phone, and with the help of the Spyder Gods found the part lying inside of the U-channel on one of the frame pieces. With the help of a long retrieval tool, I was able to liberate it from the depths and continue on with the project. Just a reminder to be sure to block all of the holes with rags or something when doing this kind of work. This is especially important when replacing the C clips on the windshield frame! You do not want to take the bike all apart to look for them if they disappear.

Follow Up:

I received a call today from Pierre at SpyderAccessories today. He was following up on my review. His operation is really the essence of the Small Business community. It is just him and his significant other doing everything!! Since he does not make these arms, and does not want to infringe on any patents or other liability areas, he just has them made by a local craftsman - (who used to be a tech at BRP and now works as his own repair shop) and markets them to the public, so there is no expectation of videos, directions, wedges, or any additional support. He was really great to talk with, and offered to be of any assistance he could for future purchases, questions, and observations.

noboot
07-14-2018, 09:07 PM
is SpyderAccessories selling your part now?

http://www.canamspyderaccessories.com/rt-replacement-arm-for-windshield-2010-2017/
No, his one is a competative one.

Pete743
08-04-2018, 12:41 PM
I still have a few on hand if anyone needs one

Hi noboot.
I'm new to this forum as well as a new Spyder owner. Loving every minute of it except when the windshield arm broke... I was more fortunate than some here since I was 5 minutes from home.
Do you still have some arms available? If yes, I would love to get o e from you.
Thanks for your help and all the info you be provided!

eddieshep999
08-04-2018, 01:51 PM
Hi noboot.
I'm new to this forum as well as a new Spyder owner. Loving every minute of it except when the windshield arm broke... I was more fortunate than some here since I was 5 minutes from home.
Do you still have some arms available? If yes, I would love to get o e from you.
Thanks for your help and all the info you be provided!


There is one listed on e bay yesterday from Noboot

I would just put in Can AM Spyder RT Replacement Windscreen Arm

In the search box on e bay to locate it

noboot
08-04-2018, 11:39 PM
Hi noboot.
I'm new to this forum as well as a new Spyder owner. Loving every minute of it except when the windshield arm broke... I was more fortunate than some here since I was 5 minutes from home.
Do you still have some arms available? If yes, I would love to get o e from you.
Thanks for your help and all the info you be provided!
Pete, sent you a pm.
cheers

Upstater
08-05-2018, 07:05 PM
I ordered my replacement windshield arm from Ron (NOBOOT) two (2) years ago. It took all this time to finally get the job done, as I haven't been riding as much as I would like. Removed all the tupperware and pulled the OEM part that was prone to failure. All was going well with the job until I tried to assemble the hex shaft with the new arm. It would not fit (too tight). Nobody else seemed to have this problem according to previous posts.

I sent a message to Ron and within minutes had a response to "lightly file the end of the hex shaft." That helped but the shaft was still a bit too large for the new arm and would not pass through the arm easily. I filed (very lightly) all sides of the hex shaft. It only took a few light passes and the shaft easily (but still very snug) slid into the new arm.

Overall, the project is relatively easy with Ron's product. The wedges supplied to help remove the plastic gear are a great bonus. I spent more time trying to figure out the hex shaft fitment. Thanks to Ron's fast response, it wasn't more than an hour before I had everything installed and buttoned up. This product gives great peace of mind for a potentially dangerous problem.

Time to get out and ride now!

Sopher
06-27-2019, 05:21 PM
My windshield arm just broke for the second time. First time was within warranty years ago. I'm planning on designing and 3D printing mine out of Carbonfiber infused PETG.

BLUEKNIGHT911
06-27-2019, 05:59 PM
I ordered my replacement windshield arm from Ron (NOBOOT) two (2) years ago. It took all this time to finally get the job done, as I haven't been riding as much as I would like. Removed all the tupperware and pulled the OEM part that was prone to failure. All was going well with the job until I tried to assemble the hex shaft with the new arm. It would not fit (too tight). Nobody else seemed to have this problem according to previous posts.

I sent a message to Ron and within minutes had a response to "lightly file the end of the hex shaft." That helped but the shaft was still a bit too large for the new arm and would not pass through the arm easily. I filed (very lightly) all sides of the hex shaft. It only took a few light passes and the shaft easily (but still very snug) slid into the new arm.

Overall, the project is relatively easy with Ron's product. The wedges supplied to help remove the plastic gear are a great bonus. I spent more time trying to figure out the hex shaft fitment. Thanks to Ron's fast response, it wasn't more than an hour before I had everything installed and buttoned up. This product gives great peace of mind for a potentially dangerous problem.

Time to get out and ride now!

happy to hear you DIY'ed a fix ….. however I would have filed the ARM instead …. a lot less filing , IMHO …… Mike :ohyea:

BLUEKNIGHT911
06-27-2019, 06:02 PM
My windshield arm just broke for the second time. First time was within warranty years ago. I'm planning on designing and 3D printing mine out of Carbonfiber infused PETG.

If you have the equipment and know how to do this - Kudo's to you ….. You might be able to make a Killing producing them ….. Back in 14 ( before NoBoot 's piece ) I added thein flat pieces of metal to the sides of mine then wrapped a strap around the entire piece and welded the edges … NEVER GOING TO BREAK >>>>>> Mike :ohyea:

pegasus1300
06-27-2019, 07:24 PM
My windshield arm just broke for the second time. First time was within warranty years ago. I'm planning on designing and 3D printing mine out of Carbonfiber infused PETG.
Do not leave us in the dark. Let us know how this works out.

Sopher
06-30-2019, 08:48 PM
Do not leave us in the dark. Let us know how this works out.

And 'Viola'. It's done. It's not shiny like an aluminum billet, but it sure is strong. This particular filament has 6000psi tensile strength.
I could easily print more and resell. Not sure how much to sell. Send me a PM if you're interested.

It took me a few hours to design, revise and perfect. The hardest part is getting the old one off. I chose to remove the small end with the magnet; preserving the integrity of the gear.

I could trim down the locking bolt as I didn't have a 22mm bold on hand, just 25mm's. OH, in case someone want to critique it: The layers are printed from barrel to barrel. This part will not split like the original. :)

173573
173574
173575

BoilerAnimal
07-01-2019, 06:42 AM
Don’t you actually mean 60000 psi?

PMK
07-01-2019, 07:07 AM
Don’t you actually mean 60000 psi?

Pretty sure the billet aluminum version, not the oem cast version has 42000 psi tensile strength.

DGoebel
07-10-2019, 08:17 PM
Can you print them in Black material?

noboot
07-10-2019, 10:37 PM
What can I say but Competition is a healthy thing.

PMK
07-11-2019, 07:45 AM
If the printed version is actually only 6000 psi strength, being 1/7 the strength of yours hardly seems like competition.

Sopher
07-12-2019, 06:10 PM
I printed mine in High Temp PLA that has a 6000psi tensile strength.
I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.

However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.

noboot
07-12-2019, 06:30 PM
However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.

Correct, The movement particularly sideways of the windscreen is a participating factor to the fatigue of the OEM part.

BLUEKNIGHT911
07-12-2019, 08:03 PM
I printed mine in High Temp PLA that has a 6000psi tensile strength.
I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.

However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.

I dis-agree, the BRP arm is ( from what I've seen of broken ones ) cast metal , maybe an alloy. ….. It just isn't very strong …. and compounded by all the deep reliefs in the arms …. If those reliefs weren't there I don't they would be failing at the rate they do..... The reliefs serve No purpose other than to Weaken the part ….. Mike :ohyea:

Sopher
07-17-2019, 02:34 PM
Regardless, I now have a functional wind shield again.
I will be designing additional add-on parts for other areas. I have now have Carbon Fiber back coming in.

Sopher
09-03-2019, 07:58 PM
As a added update... the part is doing great. no issues with the part. I'm not entirely sure I have my magnents set right on the endstops.

PMK
11-05-2019, 06:53 AM
Semi reviving an old topic.

Years ago I purchased the NoBoot machined billet aluminum windscreen arm. Our original never failed, and available time did not have me accomplish installing the NoBoot part until last week. I had already removed many bodypanels, so accessing the windscreen arm was simply a matter of removing the windscreen itself and mounting bracket.

The video showed marking parts as needed for correct reassembly. The bearing cap fasteners easily removed, however I learned that BRP adds a drop or more of what appears to be Super Glue to help secure the bearing caps when originally assembled. The gear end bearing cap easily removed with the Super Glue giving up with a slight pry as shown in the NoBoot video.

The position sensor magnet end bearing cap was glued together with more than a simple drop. In simple terms, the Super Glue applied was too much, and wound up wicking into the entire aft mating surface of the bearing cap and housing assembly. Simply prying the cap would not release it. Without fear, I used a new single edge razor blade, and worked it carefully into the glued joint. I also utilized a wide blade Xacto knife as needed. Ultimately, the Super Glue was weakened and the bearing cap released without damage.

I utilized the specialty removal tools supplied with the machined windscreen arm and with essentially no effort removed the magnet assembly from the shaft.

Removing the original was easy after removing the roll pins. The new arm slid on well, then the shaft created a small burr on the aluminum. I removed the shaft and lightly chamfered the end of the shaft with a fine file. Accomplishing that, the arm slid on with a very accurate precision fit. The roll pin holes were accurate and the pins installed nicely. I expect the slight chamfer on the shaft also eased reinstallation of the magnet assembly.

In short, the shaft assembly task was relatively easy, and assembled with a quality fit.

Next, utilizing the previous alignment marks everything was positioned, reassembled and secured.

The first ride with the new machined windscreen arm was 200 miles to the Deland event. Without doubt, the windscreen is more stable at speed and less jittery with road imperfections.

Yes, I waited a while to install the upgrade windscreen arm, no regrets in waiting, but now am far more confident in the windscreen setup. Wanted to add, our windscreen itself is the F4 standard series, so it is a bit wider than oem, so the added stability is quite noticeable.

Thanks Ron / NoBoot for a great product at a price that is easily fair considering the quality of the part and included tools to make the task very easy.

noboot
11-05-2019, 03:43 PM
PMK, Your welcome and thanks for the feedback. We see the replacement arm as an assistant to help your ride on the Spyder RT a more safer one.

TIMMB
11-06-2019, 05:16 AM
I have a new one for sale, never installed it & have a F3 now.

ninjahuey
12-21-2019, 07:24 PM
How much are you looking to get for it? Mine broke last week on my 2010 RT

bbudster
03-03-2020, 10:38 PM
Hi All, I bought the arm and replaced it on my 2011 RT, it seemed to work OK for awhile and started to miss when I tried to move windshield up/down. I took all apart again and it seems that the Gear wheel is good but that the base had stripped (found a few small broken plastic pieces on wheel). Now it skips when I try to put it back together, any help would be appreciated, do I need to replace the base (GGrrr it is all one big piece which will cost $$$). Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....HELP !!!!!

Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.

noboot
03-04-2020, 04:48 PM
Hi All, I bought the arm and replaced it on my 2011 RT, it seemed to work OK for awhile and started to miss when I tried to move windshield up/down. I took all apart again and it seems that the Gear wheel is good but that the base had stripped (found a few small broken plastic pieces on wheel). Now it skips when I try to put it back together, any help would be appreciated, do I need to replace the base (GGrrr it is all one big piece which will cost $$$). Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....HELP !!!!!

Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.

Reading your post I gather the gear cog in the base is breaking. If that's the case I suggest you find someone that is wrecking a Spyder and purchase the entire base assembly and then replace yours with it on your bike and use your "new" arm.

bbudster
03-10-2020, 03:17 PM
That is exactly what I am trying to do but not easy to find a second hand one and we are able to ride by next week March 15, 2020 (winter tire law expires on that date). If I can't find one by next week, I may just put it back together and leave the windshield up and try to sell it that way. I have to but my new used 2018 by Mid April 2020 and want to have this one sold by then (if possible.....LOL).

ThreeWheels
03-11-2020, 12:32 PM
I just picked up the 2020 RTL.
The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.

noboot
03-11-2020, 04:34 PM
I just picked up the 2020 RTL.
The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.

I guess time will tell. Fingers crossed they have learnt to improve not just the looks and style but quality of the components

bbudster
03-18-2020, 05:59 PM
HELP !!!!! I found the gear and motor assembly in Canada and ordered it, I got it today and went to fix the arm. NOW, I have another issue, The arm goes UP when I press the UP on the handlebar for the windshield. When I press the DOWN on the handlebar for the windshield to go DOWN, I get nothing? It doesn't try to go DOWN? When I press the button, I don't even hear the motor engage, I hear nothing? Any suggestions? A friend mentioned that he doesn't think that it has anything to do with the magnet, he thinks that it may be a sensor on the handlebar where I press DOWN, I opened the piece on the handlebar and tried to giggled the wires to see if it may be a loose connection, nothing (the wires seem very tight to the UP/DOWN switch).

Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.

BLUEKNIGHT911
03-18-2020, 06:42 PM
HELP !!!!! I found the gear and motor assembly in Canada and ordered it, I got it today and went to fix the arm. NOW, I have another issue, The arm goes UP when I press the UP on the handlebar for the windshield. When I press the DOWN on the handlebar for the windshield to go DOWN, I get nothing? It doesn't try to go DOWN? When I press the button, I don't even hear the motor engage, I hear nothing? Any suggestions? A friend mentioned that he doesn't think that it has anything to do with the magnet, he thinks that it may be a sensor on the handlebar where I press DOWN, I opened the piece on the handlebar and tried to giggled the wires to see if it may be a loose connection, nothing (the wires seem very tight to the UP/DOWN switch).

Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.
It is possible that the magnet isn't properly lining up with the trigger .... it's similar to what stops the elevator at the correct floor no more / no less ..... I can't guess why or how yours doesn't align. ...... good luck .... Mike :ohyea:

bbudster
03-18-2020, 07:47 PM
I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly

I may try this tomorrow

noboot
03-19-2020, 05:02 PM
I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly

I may try this tomorrow

Try rotating the arm 180' (in other words turn it upside down to the way it's sitting on the shaft now) Also make sure it's positioned half way up and not right at the top or right at the bottom. We have had this same problem a number of time and when people rotate the arm it has worked.

Rljcorbie
07-20-2020, 05:03 PM
Hello All!

So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

Thanks,
Rachel

ThreeWheels
07-20-2020, 06:10 PM
Hi Rachel. Noboot is your man. The last post was actually just a few months ago, so yes, this is still a hot issue.

BLUEKNIGHT911
07-20-2020, 06:24 PM
Hello All!

So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

Thanks,
Rachel

Actually a few months (6-8 ? ) .... BRP finally decided to make the ARM available as a separate part ..... However it's the same CRAPPY one as earlier ..... before " noboot " made His commercially available, I bought a broken one from another member here .... first I JB welded it together ... so it was stabil , then I made a temp plate and cut out two pieces of 20ga. steel .... I wrapped the entire arm ( end to end ) with a strip of 20ga. .... I welded all three pieces together. I have my original and my 14 RT has the one I patched ....... I made a few for friends, but then " noboot " made His available .... I highly recommend buying His ..... Mike :thumbup:

Rljcorbie
08-01-2020, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?

Thanks!

PMK
08-02-2020, 04:38 AM
Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?

Thanks!
Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.

noboot
08-02-2020, 05:22 PM
Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.

That's about correct, and even longer to save frustration and the worry of stuffing it up. Also be very careful of any difficult screws, sometimes a bit of heat is required on the screw helps to remove it.

sandylolee
08-05-2020, 10:43 AM
I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?

BLUEKNIGHT911
08-05-2020, 12:49 PM
I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?

If your 19 has an ARM that raises and lowers it ( and it does )...... It probably has the same one that has been used since 2010 ..... and that has been failing since about 2011 ..... the design is structurally weak... For some reason an engineer @ BRP designed it with SIX reliefs ( three on each side ) this dramatically weakened the part and causes failure due to cracking. Had they NOT created those reliefs I don't think the part would have failed, even if it is a CAST part. .... Thankfully BRP will now sell you the ARM alone .... Until recently you had to buy the ENTIRE motor assembly, just to get the ARM ..... However it's still the same Cr*py ARM , so that too will fail..... I suggest you look into what " noboot " sells to fix this issue ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:... Bad news, you have the same ARM I just looked it up @..cheapcycleparts.com ..... Annnnnnnnnnnnnnd BRP doesn't have the ARM as a separate part !!!! :gaah:

sandylolee
08-05-2020, 07:49 PM
Thank you for the info

Kernow70
08-27-2020, 06:11 PM
Well I have just read this thread from the start to date, and it was with some trepidation that I ventured out to check my windshield arm on my 2017 RTS I took a small led torch with a thin bendable extension protruding from the base which was perfect for getting in and around the mechanism allowing me to thoroughly examine the offending article. Phew what a relief at this moment in time it's just fine, well that was a relief to say the least, the windshield itself is also absolutely rigid no movement in any direction whatsoever. Of course I'm not deluding myself after reading this thread I know it's probably only a matter of time.:yikes:

So from now on I will be checking it on a regular basis, one thing in my favour is I have just recently changed out the very large touring windshield for the much smaller sports version, simply to improve the airflow a must I feel in the hot weather, with me being a bit of a short "arse" I could only look through the touring shield but now at least I can lower it sufficiently to see over the top and get some much needed airflow, and of course a smaller shield is going to mean less pressure on the offending arm, which may prolong it's eventual demise. :pray:

Allanmarc
11-26-2020, 01:01 PM
Hi,

After 40,000 kms the windscreen arm broke on my 2011 RT SE. Looks like I will be chasing a stronger replacement part from Noboot also.

Cheers,
Allan

Fearless
11-26-2020, 04:04 PM
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.

Worked well. Highly recommend.

BLUEKNIGHT911
11-26-2020, 04:36 PM
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.

Worked well. Highly recommend.

Interesting .... I did my 14 RT and didn't have that issue. But glad to hear you were successful ..... Mike :thumbup:

UtahPete
07-04-2021, 02:46 PM
bit rough around the edges but it's a first attempt at doing a video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ62VCiIe70&feature=em-upload_owner cheers noboot

Helpful. Thanks

UtahPete
07-04-2021, 03:54 PM
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket. Worked well. Highly recommend.

This is where I'm stuck. Once I get one 4mm hex head screw out of one side of a bracket, there's nothing to stop the brass barrel from turning when trying to remove the other screw from the other side. Can I just punch it through from the side with the screw removed?

190793

UtahPete
07-04-2021, 04:28 PM
I went ahead and punched it out.
190794

noboot
07-04-2021, 05:36 PM
I went ahead and punched it out.
190794

Yep, Correct

trikermutha
07-04-2021, 07:10 PM
Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!

Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.

UtahPete
07-04-2021, 07:21 PM
Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!

Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.

Ron recommended heating them with a soldering iron, and that did the trick.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 10:47 AM
Does it matter that the new arm lacks the black washers at the pivot point?

190814

190815

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 11:36 AM
You need to remove and install the sleeves on the new arm.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 11:42 AM
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.

I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.

Worked well. Highly recommend.

I just used a punch to drive the brass piece out.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 12:36 PM
Okay, now I'm stuck again. I got the mechanism put back together and the windshield bracket mounted to the arms. But when I went to check the functioning of the mechanism, it went up okay, but won't come back down. So now the arm is jammed tight against the dashboard cowling and I can't budge anything.

190817

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 02:45 PM
Can you still move the top cover??

Can you remove battery power and pull it down??

You maybe also be able to run the arm motor off a 12 vdc source to raise it up and down. But would need jumpers to make it happen.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 03:35 PM
Can you still move the top cover?? Can you remove battery power and pull it down?? You maybe also be able to run the arm motor off a 12 vdc source to raise it up and down. But would need jumpers to make it happen.

The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.

Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.

Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 03:40 PM
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.

Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.

Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.

The limiter is related to the magnet on the side that was taped up. Hope its still there?

It looks like the motor goes back to the WPM module

You did place it back into the correct position correct on the gears? Sorry have to ask questions.

Did you put the magnet back on the shaft in the same spot too?

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 03:46 PM
The limiter is related to the magnet on the side that was taped up. Hope its still there?

It looks like the motor goes back to the WPM module

You did place it back into the correct position correct on the gears? Sorry have to ask questions.

I did tape on the magnet so as not to lose it, but it's possible that it fell off as I was reinstalling the shaft and arm.

I put dabs of paint on all the pieces as instructed so I'm fairly confident it was properly oriented.

I'm concerned that if I pull down too hard on the billet arm, I'll break something in the gears. Should I be?

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 03:50 PM
I did tape on the magnet so as not to lose it, but it's possible that it fell off as I was reinstalling the shaft and arm.

I put dabs of paint on all the pieces as instructed so I'm fairly confident it was properly oriented.

I'm concerned that if I pull down too hard on the billet arm, I'll break something in the gears. Should I be?

I wonder if the magnet is missing or the shaft was off a slot? I am sure you marked it correctly. But that magnet could have fallen out??

Can you put pressure on the top cover versus trying to pull the arm down?? I guess you could try it but I would be very careful as you cannot just buy the gears. You have to buy the whole module if something breaks.

Let me see if I can move mine since I have mine still in pieces..

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 03:53 PM
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.

Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.

Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.

Which fuse is it? I don't see a label for windshield motor.

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 03:56 PM
I would not try to force the arm down. You will break something.

When you start the bike the arm will not go down??

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 03:58 PM
Believe its F4 in the right fuse box.

I really dont think you blew the 20 amp fuse if since it goes thru a relay.

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 04:00 PM
Do you have BUDS by chance?

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 04:24 PM
I would not try to force the arm down. You will break something.

When you start the bike the arm will not go down??

I was finally able to pry and wiggle the dash cover off. Took the end covers off the hex shaft. Magnet still in place. I've got a suspicion I installed the arm on the shaft 60 degrees off, but then again those drift pin holes obviously lined up okay.

I'm mystified (but very glad I haven't broken anything yet that I know of)

I don't have BUDS.

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 04:46 PM
I was finally able to pry and wiggle the dash cover off. Took the end covers off the hex shaft. Magnet still in place. I've got a suspicion I installed the arm on the shaft 60 degrees off, but then again those drift pin holes obviously lined up okay.

I'm mystified (but very glad I haven't broken anything yet that I know of)

I don't have BUDS.


That's great you got it off. Now to figure out what is not right.

Did you remove the plastic off the shaft that has the magnet on it??

There is a top and bottom on that arm. It does have top stamped on it too.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 05:00 PM
Is the magnet oriented correctly? How about the slight bend in the arm?
190819

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 05:17 PM
I am guessing it is compared to NOBOOTs Video. around the 2 minute mark.

There is a TOP stamped on the arm. That faces up.

Did you remove the plastic end where the magnet goes into? or did the magnet fall out at anytime?

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 05:53 PM
I am guessing it is compared to NOBOOTs Video. around the 2 minute mark.

There is a TOP stamped on the arm. That faces up.

Did you remove the plastic end where the magnet goes into? or did the magnet fall out at anytime?

I've just figured out I had the arm mounted on the shaft 180 degrees different from the original, based on pictures I took of the magnet end before I dismantled the original arm. Wish I'd checked that before...

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 06:00 PM
Thats good you found it. Does the magnet have dot on the end. Hard to tell from the pics.

noboot
07-05-2021, 06:06 PM
You need to remove the arm and rotate it 180' A number of people have had the same problem (including us) and once rotated it all worked correctly.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 06:19 PM
You need to remove the arm and rotate it 180' A number of people have had the same problem (including us) and once rotated it all worked correctly.

Good morning Ron. I just did that and now everything works properly. Thanks.

I'm afraid your Mona Lisa looks more like a Sydney Pollack now. Sorry mate.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 06:21 PM
Thats good you found it. Does the magnet have dot on the end. Hard to tell from the pics.

No dot but one place on the edge it was slightly disfigured.

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 06:24 PM
Thats good you found it. Does the magnet have dot on the end. Hard to tell from the pics.

190820

trikermutha
07-05-2021, 07:02 PM
Thanks. I was hoping to see some sort of sign that would help others if there was a dot on the magnet.

Maybe next person who does there's will start marking a dot on the magnet too??

UtahPete
07-05-2021, 07:29 PM
You need to remove the arm and rotate it 180' A number of people have had the same problem (including us) and once rotated it all worked correctly.

In retrospect, it would have been simpler just to rotate the magnet rather than removing the gear and arm from the shaft again. Oh well.

noboot
07-05-2021, 09:21 PM
In retrospect, it would have been simpler just to rotate the magnet rather than removing the gear and arm from the shaft again. Oh well.

Pete, because of the delicate nature of the magnet relating to the proximity switch we have always concentrated on working from the worm wheel end and as our video indicates not to disturb the magnet end.

Cheers, Ron (noboot)

LeeAb
07-23-2021, 11:02 PM
In the process of replacing my broken arm with Noboot’s arm. I’m at the point where I got the pins out of the hex shaft but the old arm doesn’t seem to want to budge / slide off. Any suggestions on how to get it free?

Thanks!

noboot
07-23-2021, 11:07 PM
Have you used the 5 Shims that would have come with the arm ? And watched the video ? That will help

trikermutha
07-24-2021, 05:53 AM
Little oil clean the shaft and tap on hard wood table it comes out. And you can see thru the pin holes correct? Have to ask questions.
You have the gear off correct?

LeeAb
07-24-2021, 06:37 AM
Little oil clean the shaft and tap on hard wood table it comes out. And you can see thru the pin holes correct? Have to ask questions.
You have the gear off correct?
I took off the magnet side after stripping the screw on the gear side. I can see through the pin holes. Going to try oil on the shaft. Thanks!

LeeAb
07-24-2021, 06:39 AM
Have you used the 5 Shims that would have come with the arm ? And watched the video ? That will help

Yes, watched the video a few times. I used the shims to take off the magnet side since the screw stripped on the gear side.

Just can’t get the broken arm to slide off. Going to try a little oil.

trikermutha
07-24-2021, 07:06 AM
You can use a hair dryer too to heat up the old arm shaft area.

The screw you could have used a bit of heat too.

It should slide somewhat easy. Scotch pad works good on the shaft before removal.

LeeAb
07-24-2021, 11:17 AM
Thanks!! Ended up using a bit of wd40 and let it sit for an hour or so then tapped the broken arm down with a hammer.

My biggest issue is that one of the pins got damaged and wouldn’t slide back in, so I’m running the arm with one pin. Hopefully that’s not too bad. Other then that, it goes up and down no issues.

trikermutha
07-24-2021, 01:15 PM
Those pins are the heavy duty type spiral pin.. I had to replace them too..

LeeAb
07-24-2021, 03:25 PM
Those pins are the heavy duty type spiral pin.. I had to replace them too..

Any idea where I can buy one?

noboot
07-24-2021, 06:31 PM
Thanks!! Ended up using a bit of wd40 and let it sit for an hour or so then tapped the broken arm down with a hammer.

My biggest issue is that one of the pins got damaged and wouldn’t slide back in, so I’m running the arm with one pin. Hopefully that’s not too bad. Other then that, it goes up and down no issues.

Glad to see you managed to get the old one off and the new one on. I'm not sure about replacing the pins, maybe you can find someone nearby that can machine you up a couple

trikermutha
07-24-2021, 08:46 PM
I believe mcmaster carr is where I got mine