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View Full Version : 2012 RT LTD clicks but won't start



JoeUpchurch
08-17-2014, 09:15 PM
Hi everybody,

I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.

Appreciate any help - thanks,

Joe

happyspyder2039
08-17-2014, 09:28 PM
Hi everybody,

I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.

Appreciate any help - thanks,

Joekill switch? Left in gear?

JoeUpchurch
08-17-2014, 09:30 PM
If it is the kill switch it would be broken - checked and double checked each try.

JoeUpchurch
08-17-2014, 09:31 PM
Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past.

JoeUpchurch
08-17-2014, 09:33 PM
Only relay I didn't pull was the "rectifier" under the plastic - put the plastic back on without thinking.

JoeUpchurch
08-17-2014, 09:36 PM
And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.

happyspyder2039
08-17-2014, 10:10 PM
And, of course, hasn't thrown the first code - checked that before and after on and off and start failure.
Foot or hand on brake then try to start

Princeau99
08-17-2014, 11:19 PM
There was a guy in the last two weeks that had the same symptom (sounds like anyway) and it turned out to be his starter had locked up. Not something I would try to fix at home.

bummer dude!

JoeUpchurch
08-18-2014, 07:07 AM
Foot or hand on brake then try to start

Thanks for the effort of reading and replying to my problem.

JoeUpchurch
08-18-2014, 08:20 AM
I guess it's on to my dealer now - have no trailer - we'll see how well BEST PLUS works!, to be continued

Bob Denman
08-18-2014, 09:17 AM
The only way that your bike could turn over while in first gear...

... if your foot was on the brake.
Give it another try... :thumbup:


"Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past."

Chupaca
08-18-2014, 09:34 AM
you can put it into "N" manually with a wrench. With no codes hard to tell much could be the gear position sensor or as the other member with the starter problem where the magnet came loose and he JB welded it back. Somewhat involved if no mechanically savy...sadly the old push start won't work on the se's let us know what they find...:thumbup:

JoeUpchurch
08-18-2014, 12:17 PM
The only way that your bike could turn over while in first gear...

... if your foot was on the brake.
Give it another try... :thumbup:


"Says in 1st gear but I can't get it out. Always cranked in first gear in the past."

Had my foot on the brake every cranking attempot for 2 days

JoeUpchurch
08-18-2014, 12:19 PM
you can put it into "N" manually with a wrench. With no codes hard to tell much could be the gear position sensor or as the other member with the starter problem where the magnet came loose and he JB welded it back. Somewhat involved if no mechanically savy...sadly the old push start won't work on the se's let us know what they find...:thumbup:

sure will, thanks for your interest!

Bob Denman
08-18-2014, 12:25 PM
Had my foot on the brake every cranking attempot for 2 days
Sorry... I had to ask about it.

My guess now, is that your battery isn't as good as you think it is...
Can you have it load tested?

billybovine
08-18-2014, 12:34 PM
Sorry... I had to ask about it.

My guess now, is that your battery isn't as good as you think it is...
Can you have it load tested?

The OP load tested the battery and tested fine. So that eliminates the battery as the cause. When he pushes the starter button there is a click. That eliminates the kill switch being in the off position and not having his foot on the brake pedal. With either of those issues there should only be silence. So manually putting it into neutral would be a waste of time. He has checked all the connections so that leaves the starter or a connection he missed.

Bob Denman
08-18-2014, 12:42 PM
I suggested a load test, because I've heard some folks in here talk about the batteries testing pretty decent without a load...

...But make them work, and a bad cell, has been known to make an appearance... :dontknow:

billybovine
08-18-2014, 04:02 PM
I suggested a load test, because I've heard some folks in here talk about the batteries testing pretty decent without a load...

...But make them work, and a bad cell, has been known to make an appearance... :dontknow:

But he said he owns his own load tester in the first post and said it tested good in another.

Bob Denman
08-18-2014, 05:11 PM
I guess because I didn't see a reference to the results of the test; I was wondering if he had done it yet... :dontknow:

JoeUpchurch
08-21-2014, 09:21 AM
I guess because I didn't see a reference to the results of the test; I was wondering if he had done it yet... :dontknow:
Sorry, for specifics the load test showed capability better than 400 CCA - with battery listed at about 350 CCA, I call that "passing the load test".

Schnauzer
08-22-2014, 04:42 PM
Our was clicking just like you reffer, it would after a few tries finally start. We were told that we were not holding it correctly... this went on for about a year.. At Spyderfest this year, BRP rep told me the same thing.. He would look at it, when he tried to crank, lt just clicked.. "Naturally I hollered,, you ain't holding it right... they replaced a defective switch button.. stranger things have happened.. mileasge has nothing to do with it either.. our reverse actuator went out with 800 miles on it...

JoeUpchurch
08-23-2014, 08:33 PM
Chris ( from my dealer) called this afternoon and informed me that my Spyder was fixed and that the problem was that the chassis ground had come undone. Can anyone tell me where the chassis ground is, how to check if it comes undone? Really perplexed.


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billybovine
08-23-2014, 08:57 PM
Under the seat on the right side is the main one. Doubles as the negative jumper post.

JoeUpchurch
08-23-2014, 09:06 PM
Billy, how could this be? The jumper post was a solid connection to the battery, the dealer mentioned that they should have caught it at the 4600 inspection - just makes no sense to me - I made sure that the thing was tight from the top. Help, please.


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Bob Denman
08-24-2014, 07:31 AM
Joe,
Is your bike now starting normally for you? :dontknow:
If so... :2thumbs:

billybovine
08-24-2014, 10:55 AM
Billy, how could this be? The jumper post was a solid connection to the battery, the dealer mentioned that they should have caught it at the 4600 inspection - just makes no sense to me - I made sure that the thing was tight from the top. Help, please.


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Well if it's not that one there must be others. I do not have 2012 service manual so I can't look it up. Then it still would be a guess. Why not ask the dealer where it was?

JoeUpchurch
08-26-2014, 12:25 PM
Joe,
Is your bike now starting normally for you? :dontknow:
If so... :2thumbs:

My dealer's tech says the ground wire on the oil tank was loose. Now runs as designed. Dealer covered under warranty. Happy to ride again!

billybovine
08-26-2014, 12:29 PM
My dealer's tech says the ground wire on the oil tank was loose. Now runs as designed. Dealer covered under warranty. Happy to ride again!

Thanks for letting us know. It may help someone else in the future.

Bob Denman
08-26-2014, 12:46 PM
:agree: :2thumbs:

JoeUpchurch
08-26-2014, 04:38 PM
Seems there are 3 major chassis grounds, anyone know where the third is ?


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JoeUpchurch
08-29-2014, 01:35 PM
One more observation about my 2012 RT Ltd not starting. The next day (after dealer found ground wire to the oil tank loose) I rode for 100 Miles to Ricky Clayborn's house for his laser alignment and back home only to hear the clicking sound once more the next morning. I had forgotten to plug the battery maintainer in and with subsequent testing of everything I could think of I finally found that the iPod in the trunk and the 660 Garmin when left on the Spyder draw just enough current to kill your next start up attempt. I can say that conclusively (I think) because as soon as I hooked up a battery charger set to deliver 40 amps it started strong re than usual. Additionally, by disconnecting the Garmin and the iPod the maintainer indicates full charge a whole lot faster. So, if you have starter problems and you've ruled out everything else - this is something else to check.


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billybovine
08-29-2014, 02:09 PM
The iPod will be drawing power. Not enough to be concerned about. The Garmin GPS gets it's power from the radio and when the radio turns off with the key, no power goes to the GPS.

On my Spyder the alarm, the BT dongle and my Sena headset are drawing power when parked. I can go for a 1 1/2 weeks before I have any starting trouble. I don't use the maintainer unless I think it will be sitting for more than a week.

Dizneyman
08-29-2014, 02:10 PM
I have a 2011 RT-S, originally battery, always leave Garmin on Bike and IPOD in trunk hooked up. Never has used a battery tender, and never an issue starting... (until I go down later for opening up my big mouth.)

I doubt that is your issue, leaving them on the Spyder. As a note, when I turn bike off, Garman says power lost, turning off in 30 seconds... does your say that?

Joe Upchurch
08-30-2014, 01:29 PM
Joe,
Is your bike now starting normally for you? :dontknow:
If so... :2thumbs:

:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:
:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:
:2thumbs::2thumbs:

Wind in my hair again! Darn - won't start again - called best plus for a tow

Joe Upchurch
09-04-2014, 08:25 PM
Hi everybody,

I've read every post I can find on this subject, pulled every relay, pulled and checked every fuse, tightened every battery terminal, unit shows 12.8 at the battery and the frunk accessory 12 V plug as well as the brunk accessory 12 V plug, The dealer installed a new battery on 5/28/14. My dealer isn't open till Tuesday, anyone got any more suggestions? I suspect bad cell in the battery with less than 300 miles traveled however, no bulging on it. I have a 12V battery load tester and will try that tomorrow.

Appreciate any help - thanks,

Joe. Second time BEST PLUSS towed it to dealer!

stopped for gas after 75 mile ride - I guess I'll just have to get used to my BEST PLUSS rep!

Joe Upchurch
09-04-2014, 08:28 PM
I have a 2011 RT-S, originally battery, always leave Garmin on Bike and IPOD in trunk hooked up. Never has used a battery tender, and never an issue starting... (until I go down later for opening up my big mouth.)

I doubt that is your issue, leaving them on the Spyder. As a note, when I turn bike off, Garman says power lost, turning off in 30 seconds... does your say that?
Yes, First time towed they said it was a bad ground at the oil tank - what will they say this time? BEST PLUS pays $200 for every tow, maybe the second time they will find the problem.

project.618
08-22-2015, 05:02 AM
Hi , my 2012 rts , has a starting problem too. I drive it often & keep it on the batty tender. I put in a new battery. I think it is the start switch on the handle bar. But dealer won't change the switch for me. Transmission in natural, I push the start button & nothing happens.

billybovine
08-22-2015, 08:36 AM
Hi , my 2012 rts , has a starting problem too. I drive it often & keep it on the batty tender. I put in a new battery. I think it is the start switch on the handle bar. But dealer won't change the switch for me. Transmission in natural, I push the start button & nothing happens.

You would be better off starting your own thread so we can deal specifically with your Spyder's starting problem.

When you push the start button and nothing happens it is not a battery problem. As you found out.
Is the engine stop switch in the run position?
Is your foot pressing down the brake pedal?
When you press the brake pedal are the brake lights coming on?
When you first turn the key on, do you hear the fuel pump run?
After about a minute after first turning on the key. Does the message "Bad Key" scroll across the screen? Warning it may only do this once.

pegasus1300
08-24-2015, 06:53 PM
So our last post from Joe was that he was going to the dealer again. Did we ever hear any more from him? Do we know if this got resolved and if so what that was? Joe where are you?:dontknow: