Battery replacement help needed.

[edcodianne]

Trying to replace the battery in my 2012 RT. Got the terminals disconnected, but battery won't budge. What else needs to be disconnected and does any part besides the top panel over the battery need to be removed first? Are there any DIY videos showing the correct process to remove the battery?

[Bob Denman]

Try sending a PM to Rattigan_Roger about this. nojoke
He's a whiz with electrical stuff! :bowdown:

[revjvegas]

There is also a black-rubber bungee strap running down the center which holds the battery in its place.
You also have to remove that to get it out.

[jthornton]

IIRC on my 2012 RT it is a really tight fit after you get everything out of the way.

JT

[edcodianne]

Try sending a PM to Rattigan_Roger about this. nojoke
He's a whiz with electrical stuff! :bowdown:

OK, will do...thanks.

[jerpinoy]

Ensure you turn off your key switch and kill switch. Positive and negative wires out.

[edcodianne]

There is also a black-rubber bungee strap running down the center which holds the battery in its place.
You also have to remove that to get it out.

Yeah, did that, but it's still feels like it's secured down somehow.

[Chupaca]

get a strap e.i. Old belt, nylon strap, plastic strap etc and make a hole at each end. Bolt it back on the battery to give you something to pull with. No metal of course..now if its the other system where the battery lays on its side..there is a lip and you have to lift the battery up and then pull it out. The battery is heavy and it is a tight fit...:thumbup:

[viperryder]

I had a 2011 and had to take out the battery. It helps if you take off all the side panels. I know this is a chore, but when I did it on my the battery came out and went back in in a snap. Hope this helps.

[StanProff]

I had a 2011 and had to take out the battery. It helps if you take off all the side panels. I know this is a chore, but when I did it on my the battery came out and went back in in a snap. Hope this helps.

Remove the side panels and the little black panel under the seat. you will then have good access to the battery. The side panels aren't a big deal to remove, besides, once you get them off you can do some cleaning and just check out what's under there. Be sure to take the black rubber strap loose, The battery is heavy, it is surprising how heavy it is,and you may have to bump it to get it to move. Yes, it is a little hard to get out but "tilt wiggle and turn " (then do the same to the battery:roflblack:) and it will lift out.

[GeoffCee]

I did this job a couple of days ago, maybe I can help.
First, there is a blanked multi-pin connector and it is an advantage to move this out of the way. My workshop manual for the RT was not a lot of help in identifying it but it's possibly used for trailer wiring. It's fastened to the frame in front of the + terminal. It is supported from a complicated plastic device and if you put some downwards pressure on the connector this will release it from the device and you can either let it hang down or tie it up completely out of the way.
The rubber strap has already been mentioned. I levered the rear clip off the top of the battery carriage frame using a screwdriver. Once released the strap's removal is straightforward.
The next thing is to free the battery from under the rear carriage clips by moving it towards you. I used a screwdriver as a lever behind the battery to do this.
The next thing is to slide the battery towards the rear of the trike but this, too, may need some leverage to start it off. Again you can lever against the left side of the carriage. As it slides to the right lift it up and continue until it is standing on end. It can then be lifted clear of the machine.
Fitting a replacement battery is the reverse of removal, making sure you install it with the terminals uppermost and towards you, (this places the + terminal on the left where it belongs).
Refitting the holding strap requires a mighty amount of force to engage the top clip. I pushed hard on the rubber bungee (where the wire clip is) with a tire lever.
The connector and its plastic mount defeated any attempt to fit them together again so I gave up trying. I cut the plastic mount device free and used a plastic tie-wrap to support the connector instead. It supports it just the same.
I found the terminal screws supplied with the replacement Yuasa battery were shorter in length, so I used the original longer ones BRP had used.
That's about all, I think.
Good luck! :thumbup:
One thing I forgot, a 14 mm allen key fits a T30 torx nut well enough and you'll probably need one of these to undo and refasten the rearmost bolt on the battery cover, (under the rear of the seat), unless you have already removed the seat and you have vertical access.
And a safety tip: Undo the negative (-) connector FIRST and wrap it in insulating tape. When you connect up again connect the positive (+) terminal FIRST.