Going to a car tire

[Questions]

I am going to mount a car tire on the rear of my 2014 RT-S. Would like some input on the make and size that you are running.
Are there any that are the exact size as the OEM?
Any input will help.
Thanks

[freebob]

I am going to mount a car tire on the rear of my 2014 RT-S. Would like some input on the make and size that you are running.
Are there any that are the exact size as the OEM?
Any input will help.
Thanks

Kuhmo ast 225/50 R15 is a good choice...12000mi on mine and showing no real sign of wear...

freebob...:doorag:

[Spyderal11]

Kumho ecsta is the same size I buy mine at tire direct for 81 dollars with free shipping takes about three to five days to get it. Thats the tire alot of people use on here.

[Chupaca]

search tires here and you will get everything you need to know and then some. Then pick who you trust the most and get what he's got. But if you go with a car tire in the back then go with the same in front...:thumbup:

[Highwayman2013]

I didn't like the choices in the stock size. Went with 215/60/15 Michelin Primacy. There are a lot of choices in this size, I went for wear and traction. The tire was $140 at a local tire store that mounted it on the rim for me. I did the rest of the work and there is no difference in feel from the Kenda. Still running the stock Kendas up front and see no need to change them. The speedometer is almost right on with the GPS now.

[Bob Denman]

Throw another vote on the Kumho Ecsta AST pile... :2thumbs:
In the OEM's 225/50-15 size! :D

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

search tires here and you will get everything you need to know and then some. Then pick who you trust the most and get what he's got. But if you go with a car tire in the back then go with the same in front...:thumbup:

:gaah:I'm not going to get into a p*ss*ing contest about this BUT ....There is no valid reason to change out the KENDA front tires until they are worn out.......For all intensive purposes the only absolute difference between KENDA CAR TIRES ( 4-ply )and KENDA MTC. TIRES.( 2 ply )).........the mtc tires state they are MTC tires ..........What you never want to do is mix tires on the SAME AXEL :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:..................Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[PW2013STL]

Throw another vote on the Kumho Ecsta AST pile... :2thumbs:
In the OEM's 225/50-15 (tel:225/50-15) size! :D

I just picked up one this morning at Discount Tire in Aurona, CO for $81 and will see about having it mounted at the Fun Center in Durango on Saturday :clap:

[freebob]

Rear...
http://gargoyle.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Spyder1374/i-zqdk79m/0/M/P1000368-M.jpg

Front...
http://gargoyle.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Spyder1374/i-fNwnC8t/0/M/P1000369-M.jpg
Nice looking tires..Good brand..Hope they work out for you.....

Freebob:doorag:

[freebob]

:gaah:I'm not going to get into a p*ss*ing contest about this BUT ....There is no valid reason to change out the KENDA front tires until they are worn out.......For all intensive purposes the only absolute difference between KENDA CAR TIRES ( 4-ply )and KENDA MTC. TIRES.( 2 ply )).........the mtc tires state they are MTC tires ..........What you never want to do is mix tires on the SAME AXEL :yikes: :yikes: :yikes:..................Mikeguyver :thumbup:

:gaah::banghead:.......

[tplayer49]

I am going to mount a car tire on the rear of my 2014 RT-S. Would like some input on the make and size that you are running.
Are there any that are the exact size as the OEM?
Any input will help.
Thanks


Hi,

Curious as to why you are going with a car tire.

Joe

[Gordo]

Following this thread with great interest. 7200km(4500miles) and I'm down to the wear bars. That's just not acceptable.

[murphybrown]

Hi,

Curious as to why you are going with a car tire.

Joe

I ran only OEM, Kendas, on my 2010 RT. Satisfied with the life of those tires.
Then I purchased the 2014 RTS. Why did I replace my rear Kenda with a car tire? 3800 miles at wear bars and I do NOT..spin out or in anyway over use. As an FYI..trailer tires on '14 (purchased same time as RTS) 622 (also Kendas) gone at 3000 miles. Front Kendas on '14...are cupping...IMHO I'm thinking that BRP has either asked Kenda to create a formula for the tires that is not holding up OR BRP got a "bad" batch .. don't know, but not acceptable to me. I am at Owner's Event and I will be taking all my data with me to meet with BRP directly. I have the best dealer in the world, Len of Pitbull Powersports and he is "taking me" to the BRP person. So I will let SL's know what my results are. I have already replaced the rear tire...certainly not safe to drive it, but I have everything I need to "discuss" situation. :yikes::thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:gaah::banghead:.......
Actually :shocked:...
"Guyver" has a pretty valid point! :thumbup:
They'll wear-out soon enough on their own :D; just change them at that time! :clap:

[oldgoat]

:gaah::banghead:.......




Not sure why you seem to be disagreeing with Mike (BLUEKNIGHT911). He makes a very valid point.

I see nothing wrong with the "same" tires on the front wheels & a different brand on the back. Our Spyders are not 2 wheeled motorcycles where it is a no no.

[Bob Denman]

Mike does sometimes; bring out the best in folks... :D :roflblack: :joke:

[StealthSpyder]

What is the possibility of running a slightly wider rear tire than stock on an RSS? How much extra room is there inside the rear fender back there? I never really looked to see what could be possible. Nothing crazy, maybe a 235 or 245 as opposed to the stock 225?

Curious to hear if anyone has gone slightly wider without removing rear fender.


By the way...the yokohoma S drive tires are awesome!! Really badass looking and they are an excellent sport performance tire!! I had my 4.2 V8 S4 wrapped in them and the AWD loved them!! They were really grippy and excellent in rain as well. Highly recommend.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

What is the possibility of running a slightly wider rear tire than stock on an RSS? How much extra room is there inside the rear fender back there? I never really looked to see what could be possible. Nothing crazy, maybe a 235 or 245 as opposed to the stock 225?

Curious to hear if anyone has gone slightly wider without removing rear fender.


By the way...the yokohoma S drive tirs are awesome!! Really badass looking and they are an excellent sport performance tire!! I had my 4.2 V8 S4 wrapped in them and the AWD loved them!! They were really grippy and excellent in rain as well. Highly recommend.

:yes::yes::yes::yes: OMG.....Someone actually took my advice ( from 4 months ago ) 185/55-14 ( for front ) these have the widest footprint of any tire that will fit inside the front fenders :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:.....Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

What is the possibility of running a slightly wider rear tire than stock on an RSS? How much extra room is there inside the rear fender back there? I never really looked to see what could be possible. Nothing crazy, maybe a 235 or 245 as opposed to the stock 225?

Curious to hear if anyone has gone slightly wider without removing rear fender.


By the way...the yokohoma S drive tires are awesome!! Really badass looking and they are an excellent sport performance tire!! I had my 4.2 V8 S4 wrapped in them and the AWD loved them!! They were really grippy and excellent in rain as well. Highly recommend.

:lecturef_smilie:....Good Luck with that....( rear tire ).........Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike does sometimes; bring out the best in folks... :D :roflblack: :joke:

:agree:....I try Bob, I try :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflb lack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:: roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.................. ..Mikeguyver..:thumbup:

[StealthSpyder]

:lecturef_smilie:....Good Luck with that....( rear tire ).........Mikeguyver :thumbup:


Please elaborate, oh wise one :roflblack:

[Bob Denman]

I'd be just guessing...
But you've got the swingarm and rear brake stays, to worry about! :shocked:
(And we haven't even mentioned the drivebelt yet!)
But then; I haven't looked all that closely at it... :D

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

As a tire shop & spyder owner i would not recommend using the kumho ast. kumho is one of our house brands & are good tires, first the ast is being discontinued, second it is an all season tire & i don't like to mix a/s & summer tires on the same car & more so on a bike. the load index & speed rating come up good but if the ground were wet or you go through a puddle there could be some problems on under steer. ABS braking system requires the same type of tires to work correctly.

For the computer to work correctly the rolling circumference for front & rear should be within 3% of each other.
Unfortunately i can't get m/c tires but i still will stay with the correct ones for my bike. 2013 rt-s fully fully loaded, just got it in May of this year.
My wife & i wear full riding gear & i take no chances with a bike.
I bought my spyder because my wife & i believe it is the safest motorcycle we have ever seen & to save a few dollars i won't compromise.

I am doing my wheels color matched pearl yellow to my bike next week, full yellow with cnc/brushed face. Pressure 15f 28r 76 torque.

AL'S HUBCAPS & WHEEL REPAIR
490 JERICHO TPKE.
MINEOLA, NY 11501
516-742-6823

P.S. we can mount & road force syders just can't get the tires wholesale. I am also looking for spyders on long island that want to ride on sundays.
al

[Bob Denman]

"ABS braking system requires the same type of tires to work correctly."

:shocked::hun:
There's really nothing magical about ABS... it merely senses wheel lock-up, and applies braking forces to the affected wheel(s)... :dontknow:
Noboby is saying that you have to use something other than the Kendas...;)

[bug's zedi]

Not sure why you seem to be disagreeing with Mike (BLUEKNIGHT911). He makes a very valid point.

I see nothing wrong with the "same" tires on the front wheels & a different brand on the back. Our Spyders are not 2 wheeled motorcycles where it is a no no.

Why is that? On my GL1800, I run a michelin Primacy Alpin run flat winter tire on the back, and a Bridgestone G709 on the front and feel it is one of the best set ups for traction and safety. There are many that run differeent brands, and even types of tires from front to rear with no issues depending on what they are looking for.

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

Why is that? On my GL1800, I run a michelin Primacy Alpin run flat winter tire on the back, and a Bridgestone G709 on the front and feel it is one of the best set ups for traction and safety. There are many that run differeent brands, and even types of tires from front to rear with no issues depending on what they are looking for.

I am just going to say this.....what you are running is dangerous, i would never run it for myself, i would never let a customer run that mix on a car
nor would i allow my guys to install it. I play it cautious. if you want to do that set up it is not illegal for you to do it but it actually is for a tire shop
or m/c shop to install that on the vehicle, we are supposed to know better & we would be liable.
It is your bike & you can do what you want, if you crash it really won't affect or bother me too much. It would be nice if I was wrong but as my
employees know when it comes to tires & wheels i am very rarely ever wrong!! My expertise is on car wheels & tires but i don't expect there to be
much difference on handling characteristics with m/c or spyders.
al

[oldgoat]

Why is that? On my GL1800, I run a michelin Primacy Alpin run flat winter tire on the back, and a Bridgestone G709 on the front and feel it is one of the best set ups for traction and safety. There are many that run differeent brands, and even types of tires from front to rear with no issues depending on what they are looking for.


I was under the impression that you needed to put the same manufacturer's tire on the front & rear of a motorcycle "and" the same front & rear specific model of that tire to ensure the same adhesion to the road in all conditions. Failing to do that could easily result in handling problems & maybe a fall off the bike.

Caveat:-I'm no expert here, it's just what I've read in magazines over the years.

[Bob Denman]

We've all read stuff like that...
I tend to take most of it, "with a grain of salt." :D
On my GoldWing; I ran Dunlops up front, and Contis out back... the only thing that it ever did, was make me grin!
I suppose that you could get into a situation where two vastly different tire profiles; might make the handling a bit... wonky! :yikes:

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

I was under the impression that you needed to put the same manufacturer's tire on the front & rear of a motorcycle "and" the same front & rear specific model of that tire to ensure the same adhesion to the road in all conditions. Failing to do that could easily result in handling problems & maybe a fall off the bike.

Caveat:-I'm no expert here, it's just what I've read in magazines over the years.

Yes, you should always put tires with the same tread design & specs on all points of a car & bike, I personally will match front & rear with same
brand & series tires. As for changing brands and such use the same specs ie. load rating, speed rating or you compromise the full handling characteristics of the vehicles design. Meaning the bike comes with an 'H' speed rating so the minimum you want is the h but you can put a v, w, z or y on since they exceed the h & it is recommended all tires have the same speed rating. as for the load index any car tire you would find would handle the weight of the bike but since the load index of a car would be much greater then our spyders i would expect the tires would not feel the same on cornering and won't have the same flex but would probably give much better mileage & be cheaper.
al
I am still looking for riders on long island!!

[tplayer49]

I ran only OEM, Kendas, on my 2010 RT. Satisfied with the life of those tires.
Then I purchased the 2014 RTS. Why did I replace my rear Kenda with a car tire? 3800 miles at wear bars and I do NOT..spin out or in anyway over use. As an FYI..trailer tires on '14 (purchased same time as RTS) 622 (also Kendas) gone at 3000 miles. Front Kendas on '14...are cupping...IMHO I'm thinking that BRP has either asked Kenda to create a formula for the tires that is not holding up OR BRP got a "bad" batch .. don't know, but not acceptable to me. I am at Owner's Event and I will be taking all my data with me to meet with BRP directly. I have the best dealer in the world, Len of Pitbull Powersports and he is "taking me" to the BRP person. So I will let SL's know what my results are. I have already replaced the rear tire...certainly not safe to drive it, but I have everything I need to "discuss" situation. :yikes::thumbup:
Hi,

Okay so the short answer is.... better wear on the tires. I think it is awesome how you gathered the facts and are pursuing the matter. I have learned that there are not many people in this world.... like you... who care about others... enough to provide feedback. Feedback changes things and makes life better... and in this case safer. I try to do the same whenever I can. Thanks you so much.

Please let me know what you find out.

Joe

[Bob Denman]

I ran only OEM, Kendas, on my 2010 RT. Satisfied with the life of those tires.
Then I purchased the 2014 RTS. Why did I replace my rear Kenda with a car tire? 3800 miles at wear bars and I do NOT..spin out or in anyway over use. As an FYI..trailer tires on '14 (purchased same time as RTS) 622 (also Kendas) gone at 3000 miles. Front Kendas on '14...are cupping...IMHO I'm thinking that BRP has either asked Kenda to create a formula for the tires that is not holding up OR BRP got a "bad" batch .. don't know, but not acceptable to me. I am at Owner's Event and I will be taking all my data with me to meet with BRP directly. I have the best dealer in the world, Len of Pitbull Powersports and he is "taking me" to the BRP person. So I will let SL's know what my results are. I have already replaced the rear tire...certainly not safe to drive it, but I have everything I need to "discuss" situation. :yikes::thumbup:

Good luck, and we're waiting to hear how they respond... :thumbup:

(I had heard it mentioned elsewhere, that BRP got some "bad" batches of Kendas... :shocked:)

[BikerDoc]

Kuhmo ast 225/50 R15 is a good choice...12000mi on mine and showing no real sign of wear...

freebob...:doorag: I got over 30000 miles on my last one, 8000 already on my new one after my kenda crapped out in 8000
miles on my 2014

[Marker]

Following this thread with great interest. 7200km(4500miles) and I'm down to the wear bars. That's just not acceptable.


I would complain to your dealer.
My 2010 can -am RT S had 23,000km on it before I got the OEM rear tire changed and it was just down to the wear bars. I uesed another OEM rear tire
the front tires still have lots of tread left.

[Nito]

Out of curiosity, if anyone gets the opportunity, could they weigh the stock tyre vs a car tyre? particularly the front ones. If bike is 2 ply and car 4 ply could the reason be to reduce unsprung weight and to allow more flex to alleviate strain off the steering components? (At the expense of longevity).

cheers
nito

[billrob71]

I kinda like the tread pattern front and rear of the Kenda tires and the front tires I'm gonna keep till there worn , how ever the rear tire is having a very short life on the rear of my bike :sour: I really can't fault the tire to much I'm hard on it , I do wanna try the Kumho tire just to see if it will last any more and if it doesn't it doesn't. I like riding the bike the way I do and have fun doing it. I did notice that the rear tire size is getting harder to find and the 15 inch front tires don't have a lot of choices either.

[jcthorne]

Rear...
http://gargoyle.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Spyder1374/i-zqdk79m/0/M/P1000368-M.jpg

Front...
http://gargoyle.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Spyder1374/i-fNwnC8t/0/M/P1000369-M.jpg


How do these Yokohama 205 55R15 compare in real world width to the oem Kenda? I know the Yoko S drive tires run much wider than the size numbers suggest. Any chance you have the kenda to shoot a side by side comparison shot?

I also see nothing in a size close to the 15 inch fronts. Would really like to run GOOD tires such as these.

[WackyDan]

I ran the Kumho.

Does it wear better? Not by much. I got only 1000 more miles out of it as compared to the Kenda... But I ride pretty hard. Others have seen a mileage bump out of the Kumho. It does wear evenly across the tread though.

That said, and I think this is important. The Kumho was pretty crappy in the rain once you got a little wear on it. It was also greasy on wet roads. For running around and general touring it was fine, but you had to be careful in the rain.

I'm now running the Toyo Proxes 4. Has been the best tire in all conditions. It is very sticky - far better than the kenda and Kumho on dry roads and I have yet to float it in any standing water... and I ran at speed in that nasty storm at the owners event last year in Maggie valley. Only problem is the Proxes 4 is discontinued. I love it so much I bought three more as I could find them. There are still some places that have them... They are more than the Kumho... I think I paid $120 delivered. If you can find one, buy it. There are plenty of us running the Toyo now and we love them.

Next set of fronts is going to be Bridgestone Potenza RE-92's ... Firefly is running those and they are awesome in the rain. They don't look aggressive, but at the end of the day who cares? I want a tire that performs.

[KX5062]

Out of curiosity, if anyone gets the opportunity, could they weigh the stock tyre vs a car tyre? particularly the front ones. If bike is 2 ply and car 4 ply could the reason be to reduce unsprung weight and to allow more flex to alleviate strain off the steering components? (At the expense of longevity).

cheers
nito

I did not weigh them on a scale, but I did do a side by side comparison when mounting the new car tires. It was obvious the car tires were heavier. On my old 08' GS I switched the fronts to the Altimax tires and the difference was only slight. It would have taken a scale to detect the difference. On the rear I switched from the Kenda to the Falken, not the Kumho, and that tire seemed to be several lbs heavier. I would suspect the same would hold true with other brands because the Kenda is built very lightly, which I suspect is why they seem to wear out quickly.

I don't think the design of the tire has anything to do with unsprung weight or alike, I'm sure it has to do with costs. The front end of the Spyder is structurally almost identical to their quads and those tires weigh a ton (or tonne :joke:).

I will say that based upon my previous experiences, when it comes time to replace the tires on my 14' RT I will buy a car tire without a doubt.

[bug's zedi]

I was under the impression that you needed to put the same manufacturer's tire on the front & rear of a motorcycle "and" the same front & rear specific model of that tire to ensure the same adhesion to the road in all conditions. Failing to do that could easily result in handling problems & maybe a fall off the bike.

Caveat:-I'm no expert here, it's just what I've read in magazines over the years.

I can almost understand why on a car this is true since ideally their handling is designd to be neutral in that both ends lose traction equally, and are therefore neutral in handling. Cars are regularly driven in a controlled skid. On a motorcycle there is no advantage since if either side loses traction you have a high likeklyhood of going down. I would think that any setup that gives maximum traction to either end is better than matching inferior traction front and rear.

[bug's zedi]

I am just going to say this.....what you are running is dangerous, i would never run it for myself, i would never let a customer run that mix on a car
nor would i allow my guys to install it. I play it cautious. if you want to do that set up it is not illegal for you to do it but it actually is for a tire shop
or m/c shop to install that on the vehicle, we are supposed to know better & we would be liable.
It is your bike & you can do what you want, if you crash it really won't affect or bother me too much. It would be nice if I was wrong but as my
employees know when it comes to tires & wheels i am very rarely ever wrong!! My expertise is on car wheels & tires but i don't expect there to be
much difference on handling characteristics with m/c or spyders.
al

With the many documented failures of rear tires on these large motorcycles, I believe I am using the least dangerous setup for a gl1800. The only change in handling is a distinct increase in traction at the rear. This does mean that the in slippery conditions the front will tend to push first as opposed to the rear coming around, but either end slipping is a bad thing, so improving the grip on eithewr end is an improvement.

On a car I agree that handling can be adversly effected if one end has much greater traction. This is different since the loss of traction is not as big a deal on four wheels, and is much easier to recover from. Even saying that I still feel much safer in winter conditions with my studded Gislavid Nordfrost 3's on the front only of my Altima, than only All seasons all around. Obviousley 4 winters are the best, but oh well.

[BajaRon]

Out of curiosity, if anyone gets the opportunity, could they weigh the stock tyre vs a car tyre? particularly the front ones. If bike is 2 ply and car 4 ply could the reason be to reduce unsprung weight and to allow more flex to alleviate strain off the steering components? (At the expense of longevity).

cheers
nito

When I switched to the Toyo Proxes TR1 rear tire (very nice tire and so far, my favorite) I weighed both the worn out OEM tire and the new Toyo. I was surprised to find the Toyo to be lighter! I don't remember the exact weights but I think it was lighter by about 2 pounds. This really surprised me. But thinking about it. I came to these possible reasons.

The OEM tire is the only one of its kind. No competition, no other choice. Take it or leave it.

The Toyo has a lot of competition as there were many other tire makers producing the same size and similar design tire. How much research went into the OEM tire? Who knows, but chances are that a lot of research went into the Toyo. To compete, Toyo had to make a better tire at a competitive price. The OEM manufacturer has no such pressure.

How many of these tires did Toyo sell? Probably millions! High volume lowers per unit price and also justifies making a higher quality product.

How many OEM tires are being sold? In comparison to just this one Toyo brand and model, probably a drop in the bucket. Remember, a car will get 4 of these. The Spyder just 1.

Just because a tire has 4 plies instead of 2 does not necessarily mean it will be heavier. The number of plies is meant to give more rigidity and a higher weight carrying capacity. Obviously, our Spyders do not need more plies to carry more weight. But the additional plies also make for a flatter tread area giving you more meat on the road surface and a more uniform wear pattern.

The wider the tire, the more you need additional strength across the tread area. Otherwise, your tire will balloon in the middle as speed increases giving you the classic, Worn Out in the Middle wear pattern.

It appears that better technology and manufacturing processes can give you both increased rigidity and less weight. That's my theory, what's yours?

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd365/BajaRon/Spyder/ToyoProxesT1R_zps2b043a88.jpg

[oldgoat]

I can almost understand why on a car this is true since ideally their handling is designd to be neutral in that both ends lose traction equally, and are therefore neutral in handling. Cars are regularly driven in a controlled skid. On a motorcycle there is no advantage since if either side loses traction you have a high likeklyhood of going down. I would think that any setup that gives maximum traction to either end is better than matching inferior traction front and rear.

I understand the point you are making with regard to getting the best traction at both ends of the motorcycle.

I'm just not in a position to give a definitive argument one way or another.

[oldgoat]

When I switched to the Toyo Proxes TR1 rear tire (very nice tire and so far, my favorite) I weighed both the worn out OEM tire and the new Toyo. I was surprised to find the Toyo to be lighter! I don't remember the exact weights but I think it was lighter by about 2 pounds. This really surprised me. But thinking about it. I came to these possible reasons.

The OEM tire is the only one of its kind. No competition, no other choice. Take it or leave it.

The Toyo has a lot of competition as there were many other tire makers producing the same size and similar design tire. How much research went into the OEM tire? Who knows, but chances are that a lot of research went into the Toyo. To compete, Toyo had to make a better tire at a competitive price. The OEM manufacturer has no such pressure.

How many of these tires did Toyo sell? Probably millions! High volume lowers per unit price and also justifies making a higher quality product.

How many OEM tires are being sold? In comparison to just this one Toyo brand and model, probably a drop in the bucket. Remember, a car will get 4 of these. The Spyder just 1.

Just because a tire has 4 plies instead of 2 does not necessarily mean it will be heavier. The number of plies is meant to give more rigidity and a higher weight carrying capacity. Obviously, our Spyders do not need more plies to carry more weight. But the additional plies also make for a flatter tread area giving you more meat on the road surface and a more uniform wear pattern.

The wider the tire, the more you need additional strength across the tread area. Otherwise, your tire will balloon in the middle as speed increases giving you the classic, Worn Out in the Middle wear pattern.

It appears that better technology and manufacturing processes can give you both increased rigidity and less weight. That's my theory, what's yours?

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd365/BajaRon/Spyder/ToyoProxesT1R_zps2b043a88.jpg


Ron
Should I manage to find one, what size did you get?

[SpongeBob]

I just noticed this ad from Vee Rubber in Rider magazine ...

http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=2763&cur-cat=motorcycle

They're calling their Spyder tire the Arachnid.

[BajaRon]

Ron
Should I manage to find one, what size did you get?

Stock size, 225-50-15

It would be nice to find a slightly larger rear tire to get closer on actual speed. But as far as I know they didn't make this in a 225-55-15.

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

I just noticed this ad from Vee Rubber in Rider magazine ...

http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=2763&cur-cat=motorcycle

They're calling their Spyder tire the Arachnid.

tires are made in thailand, i have been there. fun country great place to ride a spyder but i don't know if i want to trust
my ride on their tires
al

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

Stock size, 225-50-15

It would be nice to find a slightly larger rear tire to get closer on actual speed. But as far as I know they didn't make this in a 225-55-15.

225x55R15 is a discontinued size that was made for early to mid 90's bmw 3. they used to make it in a 'v' rating which would
be great for our bikes
al

[BajaRon]

225x55R15 is a discontinued size that was made for early to mid 90's bmw 3. they used to make it in a 'v' rating which would
be great for our bikes
al

Many of the 225/50/15 tires that work well on our Spyder are also being discontinued. Like the Toyo Proxes TR1.

[dndfindley]

Following this thread with great interest. 7200km(4500miles) and I'm down to the wear bars. That's just not acceptable.

Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.

[dndfindley]

I just noticed this ad from Vee Rubber in Rider magazine ...

http://www.veerubber.co.th/2013/?p=2763&cur-cat=motorcycle

They're calling their Spyder tire the Arachnid.

Thailand? Seriously?

[jcthorne]

Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.


Profit

[Chupaca]

Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese...:roflblack: Jmo

[BajaRon]

Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.

I understand those who have this approach.

BRP certainly has a reason for every component installed (or not installed). But to assume that the reason is 'Best Possible Part or Component for the job' is going to be off the mark. In general, the truth is that BRP (or any manufacturer) is going to use the materials which at least meet the minimum requirements needed to achieve the established goal for the least amount of cost.

In other words, you're looking at a weighted matrix which determines the quality of each component. Highest quality and best possible performance are seldom of greatest concern. And for good reason. You might be looking at a $250,000.00 machine if BRP approached the Spyder in this way. Plus the fact that most would not necessarily need or appreciate 'The Very Best' of everything.

Every vehicle is a compromise, including our Spyder. Some components are worth upgrading, some are not. This depends as much on the individuals needs/wants as it does in the quality of the original component.

[oldgoat]

Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese...:roflblack: Jmo



I've been thinking my rear tire was at the wear bars, but after your comments, maybe I have been looking at the rain blocks

Will have to have another more careful look. Thanks

[BajaRon]

Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese...:roflblack: Jmo

Very True! And some get more out of a tire than others....

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd365/BajaRon/Spyder/ToyoTire.jpg

[Highwayman2013]

Stock size, 225-50-15

It would be nice to find a slightly larger rear tire to get closer on actual speed. But as far as I know they didn't make this in a 225-55-15.

I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.

[BajaRon]

I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.

One of the good tire size choices. You trade some tread width for a more accurate speedo/odometer.

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

I used a 215/60/15 and it puts the speedo very close.

As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.

[SpongeBob]

Thailand? Seriously?


Why not ? The OEM Kenda is made in China.

[Chupaca]

I've been thinking my rear tire was at the wear bars, but after your comments, maybe I have been looking at the rain blocks

Will have to have another more careful look. Thanks

If you look hard turning a whole revolution you will find a small triangle on the side of the tire. Across from that is the wear limit see picture below...
90732 hope you can see it...:thumbup:

[msj4848]

As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.

I guess that would probably be true if you were talking about using the same model tire with only a change in size. But if you upgrade to a significantly higher UTQG rated tire, the one centimeter difference in width would probably be overcome by the higher quality construction and materials used in the new tire.

I run a 215-60-15 Michelin hyrdoedge, and I can personally attest that it performs better than the kenda, in every single aspect of riding, including highway speeds, where it balloons significantly less. Even treadwear, which we all know is a shortcoming of the kenda.

[BajaRon]

As a tire guy i can tell you 215x60R15 is a performance downgrade that would be noticeable at highway speeds & exit ramps.

Not to argue, just curios.

What would be the performance downgrade?

[PW2013STL]

Had the Kumho Ecsta AST installed this morning and we went for a 300 mile ride that included the million dollar hi way (550) and my wife ask if I did something to make it handle better. I asked her in what way was it better. She said it doesn't squirm like it was in curves and it rides softer.
I can understand the 4ply reducing the squirm, but riding softer :dontknow:

I told her the only difference is the rear tire.

Now all I need to get is better mileage out of it (anything better than 6000) and I will be a very very happy :f_spider: owner :rolleyes:

[Highwayman2013]

Not to argue, just curios.

What would be the performance downgrade?

Yes please explain this down grade. Michelin Primacy 215/60/15:dontknow:

[Gordo]

Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.


I rolled the dice and rode my bike home(2000km). I was on a road trip and no where near home when I first noticed my tire. Rear tire is now worn down in the middle almost like a racing slick(no wear bars or noticable tread left). I ran 28psi in the rear from the time I got the bike. Mileage now at 92k(aprox 5700miles) and I can't get in at my dealer for replacement until the 17th. I will for sure go with the Kuma....or another but deffinetly no more Kenda's.

[WackyDan]

Thailand? Seriously?

As someone already pointed out, the Kenda is made in China. There are probably some car tires made in the U.S. that will hopefully fit the Spyder. That is your call.

My trailer tires for my toy hauler are also made in Thailand. They are the best ten ply tires currently on the market. I would have bought the American made Goodyears if they even offered a ten ply. The Goodyears have also earned a pretty bad reputation among those with trailers for premature wear and failure. As much as I try to buy U.S. made product, sometimes it makes more sense to buy the best product. Not every product made overseas is crap. Oh...and those tires I bought were more expensive than the Goodyears even in the same ply count.

[900Dave]

Couple of things I noticed from ryders I have met. Some don't know which is the wear bar and which is the rain blocks. Shoddy dealers have convinced them they needed new tires before they really did. I ryde hard and just now changed my oem Kenda at 20,000 miles. I run a bit low on the air pressure so to get full contact at speeds and even wear. The other factor is the actual road construction and roads traveled, the weather and tire temps reached while ryding. There is the model roadster and the ryder. The 14's I feel have the problem that many are upgrading and are used to cranking down to get to the torque range at higher rpms. The increased horse power and the low end torque is wearing the tires out quicker and they feel they got a bad batch as well. I don't throw the milk out because the sell by date has passed, I do when it comes out like cottage cheese...:roflblack: Jmo


I know which is the rain blocks & wear blocks. I am through the rain blocks and well into the wear blocks at 4750 miles. I have been lowering pressure to try to get more life out of them. But how low can I go? Either way no change the center still wears fast. It has nothing to do with the 14 RT and the 1330 engine, I am on my ST-L and I feel I will be lucky to see 6500 miles out of the oem tire.

[sledmaster]

We have also been told by BRP techs that they got a bad batch of tires.

I have burned through many tires in my 75,000 miles on three spyders, a few of the OEM Kenda, some of the Kumhos, a couple of the Maxxis Vectras, and am now using the Toyo Proxes, which is also discontinued like the Kumho. The Kumhos were OK, the Maxxis was better, the Toyo Proxes was the best for traction and performance. I bought six of them when I learned they were discontinued. BajaRon likes this one as well, comes in the OEM size. I would not hesitate to again run the Maxxis Vectra, that is what I have on my original 2008 #006 Spyder right now.

It all depends on what your criteria is - longevity, cost, traction, wet pavement performance, speed rating, sidewall flex, what do YOU want? I know that I want a tire that is going to hold together at 100+ MPH, one that is going to grip the road when it is wet, one that lasts longer than the latest POS Kenda, one that isn't going to pop me $150 each time it is bald. The Kumho is getting tough to find, I know riders like this one but it is only fair at best. It IS perfectly OK to run a different size, preferably as close to stock diameter as possible. I have made many posts on what is acceptable size-wize, as have many others. I run my spyders long and hard, limit seeker for sure, and I know my nanny well, with stock and non-stock tires.

Bottom line, the latest Kenda rear tires are not lasting as long as the previous ones, and I REFUSE to replace the rear tire every time the oil is changed!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Acceptable or not that is about the norm for OEM. I have 8500 miles on mine and it's down to the wear bars but I think I can make it until I have the 9300 mile service done and then I'll have the dealer mount another Kenda OEM while it's in for routine service. Car tires have been shown to last a lot longer but BRP put the Kenda's on there for a reason and I'm sticking with it.
:gaah:.....To Mr. Findley....and anyone else who wants to know .....BRP made a deal with KENDA because they had to.....BRP was extremely short on funds ( if it weren't for Mitt Romney the Spyder never would have been built in case you didn't know this )......Kenda was willing to accommodate the needs of BRP in EXCHANGE for certain benefits that were going to prove financially lucrative to KENDA down the road .......LIKE WHAT.....how's this ...A TOTAL LOCK ON THE SALES OF SPYDER TIRES ......did you know you can buy all sorts of KENDA tires from all sorts of places ....But not Spyder tires.....you can only buy them from a BRP DEALER.......Pretty neat for KENDA :hun:..........I hope this answers you question Mr Findley...........you didn't think it was their HIGH QUALITY ...did you ???? ...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::ro flblack::roflblack:............................... ........Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[Chupaca]

So what I'm seeing is : BRP, who is involved in manufacturing some of the finest airplanes, snowmobiles, personal watercrafts, off road 4 by's was on it's last leg when they decided to make the roadster (spyder). Along came Mitt Romney who brokered a deal with Kenda to scratch "For motorcycle use" on a bunch of rejected 2 ply auto tires that only brp could sell at an outrageous prices saving their butts. I must assume they also saved a bundle by not involving any engineers or research and development people in the whole tires needed cause skis don't work thing. All this so a small group of spyder ryders can spend a disproportionate amount of time online :cus: ing and moaning about their tires...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: All in fun...

[msj4848]

That is the funniest thing I've seen here in a loooong time!!!
:thumbup::roflblack::roflblack::clap:

[DrewNJ]

I'm probably the only one that actually likes my Kendas.....[emoji12]

[BajaRon]

So what I'm seeing is : BRP, who is involved in manufacturing some of the finest airplanes, snowmobiles, personal watercrafts, off road 4 by's was on it's last leg when they decided to make the roadster (spyder). Along came Mitt Romney who brokered a deal with Kenda to scratch "For motorcycle use" on a bunch of rejected 2 ply auto tires that only brp could sell at an outrageous prices saving their butts. I must assume they also saved a bundle by not involving any engineers or research and development people in the whole tires needed cause skis don't work thing. All this so a small group of spyder ryders can spend a disproportionate amount of time online :cus: ing and moaning about their tires...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: All in fun...

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd365/BajaRon/Other/Romney_zps06d9d235.jpg

[oldgoat]

If you look hard turning a whole revolution you will find a small triangle on the side of the tire. Across from that is the wear limit see picture below...
90732 hope you can see it...:thumbup:


Thank you.

Found it & have 5/32nds still to go, so OK for a good while

[Questions]

Finally had a car tire mounted on the Spyder. WOW. What an improvement in the handling. Sticks to the curves like it was glued there. No more swishy rear in the turns. Don't know about the mileage yet. Too soon to tell. Will keep you posted.

Also had the Sirius antenna moved to the outside of the trunk. Totally solved the missed signal.
All is good.

[SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN]

Not to argue, just curios.

What would be the performance downgrade?

with a taller sidewall you will have more flex in the tire, performance comes from a smaller sidewall which will give a quicker
response time on turns and more control on highway.
A taller sidewall tire will usually be a higher mileage & softer ride. Right now i have a littler over 3,100 on my tires & they
still have very high tread, i have a dill digital tread depth gauge that i will measure them out when i need to.

As for those who are saying kenda is made in china, it's not just country of manufacture as much as company of manufacture, i do very very very little kenda car tires but have no problems with the few we sell & this is the first set i
have had on a bike so it will be a few thousand miles more until i know if they are any good.
al

[reverendg]

with a taller sidewall you will have more flex in the tire, performance comes from a smaller sidewall which will give a quicker
response time on turns and more control on highway.
A taller sidewall tire will usually be a higher mileage & softer ride. Right now i have a littler over 3,100 on my tires & they
still have very high tread, i have a dill digital tread depth gauge that i will measure them out when i need to.

As for those who are saying kenda is made in china, it's not just country of manufacture as much as company of manufacture, i do very very very little kenda car tires but have no problems with the few we sell & this is the first set i
have had on a bike so it will be a few thousand miles more until i know if they are any good.
al

The tire in question doesn't have any appreciable difference in sidewall height. If it did the rolling circumference would be different. The higher aspect ratio relates the fact that it has a smaller section width by 10 mm. Most would assume that a smaller section width results in less tread width as well, but that is not always true either. That must be evaluated independently for every design.
Also, a taller sidewall composed of more, or stiffer plies, can outperform a lower more flexible sidewall.
Tires are quite often very different between front and rear on a vehicle for various reasons. The spyder is proof of this in itself. Different suspension designs, setups, and functions all matter. The front tires steer, the rear tire propels, all are used for braking. The suspension is quite different front to rear as well.
Yes, different designs may alter the handling characteristics... for better or worse. I am certain the designers did not coordinate with the tire manufacturer to produce an ultimate match-up.
The only experimentation I advise against is variation on the same axle. Just be aware of potential side effects of new tire choices and work up to extreme handling situations to evaluate your new set-up. If you heed the advice of others who have experimented before you, you may be pleasantly surprised.