How to Activate Cruise Control on Base RS

[BonesDT]

Wow! I was disassembling my right-hand controls to see how to fab a garage door opener where the cruise control is supposed to be & I found the cruise control electronics & buttons are all there. They basically replace the switch with a dummy switch and put a block off plate over it.

You can fab the "dummy switch" to turn it into a real switch:
90118

I tested it & it indeed works. The only caveat is the base-model black & white display does not give you any indicators whatsoever. I'll do a full write-up later. I'm still figuring out the best household items to make the switch 100% perfect.

[NetJunkie]

Hah! That's funny. Good job.

[Silvervette05]

That is great heads up findings.:thumbup:

[DrewNJ]

Nice find! I wonder what the parts would cost to add the missing "switch" pieces?

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[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Wow! I was disassembling my right-hand controls to see how to fab a garage door opener where the cruise control is supposed to be & I found the cruise control electronics & buttons are all there. They basically replace the switch with a dummy switch and put a block off plate over it.

You can fab the "dummy switch" to turn it into a real switch:
90118

I tested it & it indeed works. The only caveat is the base-model black & white display does not give you any indicators whatsoever. I'll do a full write-up later. I'm still figuring out the best household items to make the switch 100% perfect.
This is even more prevalent in the RT......It is way less expensive for the manufactorer to say run the EXACT same wiring harness including all the connectors ....than it is put in separate & different harnesses........Take the HEATED PASS. GRIPS on the RT ....I think if I just buy the SWITCH and connect it ......the heat elements are already in the grips .......I could be wrong..... ...but maybe not :gaah:...Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[BonesDT]

Nice find! I wonder what the parts would cost to add the missing "switch" pieces?

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Actually, from my brief review of the parts diagrams, it looks like the entire left and right control assemblies only come as full pieces and they cost $210 for RS (non-CC) and $400+ for RS-S (with CC). So be VERY careful in this mod process, you don't want to crack any of the small pieces.

It would be great to get separate parts. All you would need is the actual plastic switch cover that your finger touches. Even an OEM couldn't charge more than $10 for that. The internal part is modded easily with an exacto. You also need 2 tiny springs (my pen spring was a tad too big) and 2 ball bearings. I'll post pics later.


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[Chupaca]

must be more involved. I know all the harnesses have connections for acc we don't have, but there are two ends to the deal. You have the switch side but what about the the sending side of the cruise...:dontknow::dontknow:

[BonesDT]

OK, here's the details. First, you have to disassemble the right handlebar controls:
1) Remove the tiny piece of rubber covering the "blank" where the cruise control switch is supposed to be. Not sure how to do it since mine fell off on it's own. I suppose you just pull on it.
2) Remove the silver Torx 10 bolt that was behind the rubber boot. You can now pry the plastic switch blank off of the white 2-sided tape. You will notice the clear plastic LED indicators are hidden under the double-sided tape, so all the LEDs for the Cruise Control system are intact too!

DISCLAIMER: I have a 2014 RS. I can not vouch for the earlier years. If you do not see the dummy switch inside that looks like the below picture after you remove the Blank, then you might not want to proceed further.

3) Remove the four black bolts in the rear of the assembly with a Hex/Allen #3 wrench. The middle interior bolt goes into metal and is important in that it prevents the entire assembly from rotating with the throttle, so the factory used some loctite, so when all is done, it's probably a good idea to reapply loctite.
4) After removing the rear black plastic cover, you will see two gold bolts w/ washers. Removed those with a Hex #3. This separates the front assembly from the handlebar.
5) Looking into the interior of the front assembly, remove the five BLACK Torx 10 bolts. Do not remove the SILVER Torx 10 bolts, it is not necessary. There is also another Torx 8 bolt on the outside of the plastic shell which needs to be removed. After removing all of these, the front plastic cover will separate from the interior electric module.
6) Undo the three silver Torx 10 bolts that mount the black plastic dummy switch to the white rubber circuit board.

This is how the dummy switch assembly should look after removal:
90222

Now carefully pry each shaft end out of the base to separate the 2 pieces. Remember, be careful. From what I currently understand, you can not buy ANY of these components separately, they only sell you the entire handlebar assembly, which is over $200 for non-cruise & over $400 for cruise.

Here's what they look like separately. From what I can tell, only the top piece is slightly modified from the real cruise control switches in the RS-S+ models.
9022390224

Now the major change by the factory is that they thickened the base part of the right shaft preventing the switch from being able to slide to the right to activate the cruise control. I was too excited when I started this project, so I don't have any before pictures of the dummy switch. All pictures I am showing you are after I shaved the shaft down. I used a box cutter and slowly shaved down the shaft. It's actually fairly easy to do. I don't normally have a ton of patience for these things, but I did take a few minutes to shave a little bit at a time. Too much and it's game over. Get it as smooth as possible so the switch glides and rotates easily in the base. Here's a close-up of my handy work:
90227

Now, when you put the dummy switch back in it's mount, it should freely slide left to right and when it's in the right-most position (cruise control activate), it should be able to rotate up and down for the Accel/Resume & Decel/Set buttons.

Cruise Control Off:
90222

Cruise Control On:
90228

[BonesDT]

Now we're not done yet. We're missing some parts. First of all, let's understand how the electronics work. If you look at the white rubber pad back on the control assembly, the cruise control operates with three buttons in a triangle formation. The right two buttons are easy, and the switch assembly is now fully ready to click the Accel/Resume and Decel/Set buttons. The left button is the Cruise Control On button, but, contrary to common sense, it's not a touch-and-release-and-now-cruise-control-is-activated deal, I believe the button has to be held down for the entire duration that Cruise Control is on.

So if you look at the underneath of the dummy switch, you will see 2 holes. Now I have no idea what the OEM parts look like that are supposed to go in these holes, but I can guess there is some combination of springs and/or ball bearings. The left hole is for something to push down & hold down that On button - you will see a corresponding hole in the base as well as a little ramp to aid in the sliding back & forth. The right hole is for a spring'ed something to give the switch a nice click feel when you shift it left to right - you will see corresponding dimples in the base. The former is mandatory to get it operational, the latter is not mandatory, but you could risk a pot hole jostling your cruise control switch off since it lacks this clicking resistance.

A pen spring was too thick, so I disassembled a standard door knob lock cylinder to steal it's springs & tumblers. They work nicely in theory, but the tumblers are a little too thin and jostle around the holes too much causing the switch to jam a little bit, but here's the idea:
90229

Now it's not clear if you need a spring for the left hole "device". It does need a tad of give for it to run up on the ramp of the base, but I don't think relying on a spring is strong enough to hold the On button down, so I think a perfectly sized solid shaft with a nice round end is all you need. The longer tumbler I have here is a micro-meter too long. I'll try to file it down.

Once this is figured out, and I hope you guys can give me some ideas, everything can be put back together and you now have Cruise Control ... for free!!! Remember, there are no indicators on the base-model black & white instrument panel, so you'll have to remember/feel when your cruise control is set. Also, I have to figure out how to fab up a nice external switch, maybe by modifying the blank.

And, yes, I did test this on the road and it DOES work. I was able to accelerate by only clicking the cruise switch upwards and without touching the throttle. As soon as I tapped the brake, the engine braking was significant to indicate Cruise Control was no longer helping. Keep in mind, as in normal operation, you have to be going at least 25mph and possibly in a reasonable gear & rpm range.

[Craniac]

I think you found the answer I have been looking for.
Is this a 2013, Fly by Wire throttle? From the pics it looks like it is.

Biggest question. It works in theory but have you been able to use the cruise on the road?

[Bob Denman]

(It would HAVE to be; there was no electronic cruise control available on the prior model years...)
:congrats: on some very astute observations and findings! :clap: :firstplace:

[BonesDT]

I think you found the answer I have been looking for.
Is this a 2013, Fly by Wire throttle? From the pics it looks like it is.

Biggest question. It works in theory but have you been able to use the cruise on the road?

2014. I'm still learning about my byke, but I assume it's fly-by-wire. I editted to add, after Step 2, if you don't see the dummy switch, then things are different.

I made some edits and I did add that, yes, it works!


And, yes, I did test this on the road and it DOES work. I was able to accelerate by only clicking the cruise switch upwards and without touching the throttle. As soon as I tapped the brake, the engine braking was significant to indicate Cruise Control was no longer helping. Keep in mind, as in normal operation, you have to be going at least 25mph and possibly in a reasonable gear & rpm range.

[Craniac]

Thank you! I have a base '13 ST. The dealers tell me that Cruise cannot be added unless I add over a thousand dollars in sensors etc. But they would be happy to trade me for one new bike that does have cruise.

My LCD display tells me that Cruise if "off". It looked easy enough to me, like everything was there except the switch. But I gave up and tried to add a throttle lock. Could not get one to fit. So I bought a Cramp Buster.

In trying to get the throttle lock to fit I removed the the right hand throttle switch. The lock tite was so strong that I destroyed the allen bolt that goes into the handle bar. Had to drill it out and use vise gripes once the switch was out of the way. It is a metric allen bolt that you can buy almost anywhere. Nothing special to it.

I tried to take the switch apart but could not get to the front side. I was afraid to remove the little black rubber piece on the dummy switch.

Now I will try to remove the rubber piece and see if my bike has the same switch gear as yours.

Thanks again!

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK, here's the details. First, you have to disassemble the right handlebar controls:
1) Remove the tiny piece of rubber covering the "blank" where the cruise control switch is supposed to be. Not sure how to do it since mine fell off on it's own. I suppose you just pull on it.
2) Remove the silver Torx 10 bolt that was behind the rubber boot. You can now pry the plastic switch blank off of the white 2-sided tape. You will notice the clear plastic LED indicators are hidden under the double-sided tape, so all the LEDs for the Cruise Control system are intact too!

DISCLAIMER: I have a 2014 RS. I can not vouch for the earlier years. If you do not see the dummy switch inside that looks like the below picture after you remove the Blank, then you might not want to proceed further.

3) Remove the four black bolts in the rear of the assembly with a Hex/Allen #3 wrench. The middle interior bolt goes into metal and is important in that it prevents the entire assembly from rotating with the throttle, so the factory used some loctite, so when all is done, it's probably a good idea to reapply loctite.
4) After removing the rear black plastic cover, you will see two gold bolts w/ washers. Removed those with a Hex #3. This separates the front assembly from the handlebar.
5) Looking into the interior of the front assembly, remove the five BLACK Torx 10 bolts. Do not remove the SILVER Torx 10 bolts, it is not necessary. There is also another Torx 8 bolt on the outside of the plastic shell which needs to be removed. After removing all of these, the front plastic cover will separate from the interior electric module.
6) Undo the three silver Torx 10 bolts that mount the black plastic dummy switch to the white rubber circuit board.

This is how the dummy switch assembly should look after removal:
90222

Now carefully pry each shaft end out of the base to separate the 2 pieces. Remember, be careful. From what I currently understand, you can not buy ANY of these components separately, they only sell you the entire handlebar assembly, which is over $200 for non-cruise & over $400 for cruise.

Here's what they look like separately. From what I can tell, only the top piece is slightly modified from the real cruise control switches in the RS-S+ models.
9022390224

Now the major change by the factory is that they thickened the base part of the right shaft preventing the switch from being able to slide to the right to activate the cruise control. I was too excited when I started this project, so I don't have any before pictures of the dummy switch. All pictures I am showing you are after I shaved the shaft down. I used a box cutter and slowly shaved down the shaft. It's actually fairly easy to do. I don't normally have a ton of patience for these things, but I did take a few minutes to shave a little bit at a time. Too much and it's game over. Get it as smooth as possible so the switch glides and rotates easily in the base. Here's a close-up of my handy work:
90227

Now, when you put the dummy switch back in it's mount, it should freely slide left to right and when it's in the right-most position (cruise control activate), it should be able to rotate up and down for the Accel/Resume & Decel/Set buttons.

Cruise Control Off:
90222

Cruise Control On:
90228
You are my kind of Spyder Person :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:.....someone who thinks out of the box and goes against common logic........Mikeguyver :thumbup:

[ARCTIC]

This is an amazing find!!!!! Good work:yes:

[billrob71]

Looks great just hope that the module they talk about is not something directly for the cruise.

Hope for the best good luck with it keep us posted

13 and 14 should be the same

[ARCTIC]

Looks great just hope that the module they talk about is not something directly for the cruise.

Hope for the best good luck with it keep us posted

13 and 14 should be the same
I think he's saying the cruise works in his first post.

[Craniac]

Just took mine apart. The tiny little black piece on the dummy button is just a piece of tape. It comes off very easy. I was afraid to take it off when trying add the throttle lock because I didn't want to mess up something that may make the switch waterproof.
Trust me, that little piece of tape would not matter.

The dummy switch is there. It works the water proof switch behind it. The three contacts are on the waterproof part are easy to see. Took some pics with my cell phone so will post later. The dummy switch has no electrical contacts in it. It just pushes the silicon on the waterproof part.

[Craniac]

90284you can see the shoulder on the right that needs to be removed. I started with a Dremel but finished with a small hand file.


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[Craniac]

90286This was my first attempt at the switch. If you look inside the holes you will see a little nipple in the center of the hole. It looks like it is there to center a spring.

The two little black ears to the right of springs in the pic are used to push the contacts for accel or decel. The switch pivots on the axle portion (the part you cut down) to accomplish this.
I found a little spring in an old mechanical pencil that was just about the right size. Found a second pencil and now I had two springs.

First attempt was with the center of a pop rivet, cut down to length. This is what shows in the pic. I thought it was a little too firm. I was afraid of breaking the switch.

I then tried a .177 bb. It was just a hair too big. Got it stuck in the hole. Used a hot straight pin to drill in from the back and pushed the bb out. Then I found a drill bit that was about .175 diameter and widened the holes.

To put it all back together. One spring and bb goes in the switch. It is the one to the right of the bike or the wider portion of the moving part. Push the back of the switch down until both axles click in. Now move the switch to the right position, wide side of switch. Second spring and bb can now go in from the back through the hole. Now push the switch to the left. It will trap the second bb. Reinstall on bike.

I cannot test drive the bike right now due to the pain killers from my knee surgery. Do NOT want to mix a narcotic and a bike.
Couple of days and the pain killer will be out of my system.


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[BonesDT]

you can see the shoulder on the right that needs to be removed. I started with a Dremel but finished with a small hand file.

Yea, don't use a Dremel. Took a couple of minutes with a box cutter razor blade. The plastic is very brittle, which makes it easy to shave, but also easy to f' up. I got mine super smooth & round with only vertical strokes with a razor blade.


this was my first attempt at the switch.

Those inserts look perfect! Where did you source them from?

Welcome to the RS Cruise Control Club!

[Craniac]

90288Here you can see the dumb part of the switch that need to be modified. The white pad just above the black piece is the waterproof portion of the switch. The contacts are all under the silicon. They have no idea what is pushing them.

The larger diameter "button" to the left center is the on/off. The large hole in the back of the dummy switch goes over this hole. This switch is activated by the left spring/bb.

The two smaller "buttons" to the right center are the accel and decel buttons. They are activated by the ears on the rocker switch.

This mod requires NO modification to the wiring harness. NO electrical ability is needed.


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[Craniac]

90290
This is the "finished" product. I removed the double sided tape that "sealed" the old blank plate that was screwed to the switch and found the labels for the cruise already stenciled on the bike. I reused the screw that held the plate so I could push up to accel and down to decel. The switch needs to rock.

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[Craniac]

Those inserts look perfect! Where did you source them from?

Welcome to the RS Cruise Control Club!

Those were the center pin from a pop rivet. I punched it out of the rivet and then cut it down. Fit was great but it took too much force to move the slider.

I made the holes a little bigger (diameter) and used a couple bb's in place of the pop rivet pin. I think the pressure is perfect now.
No pics with the bb's because they wouldn't sit still.

[Craniac]

90291
This may explain the pop rivet center. The mechanical pencil and it's brother died for a good cause. The spring was almost perfect.

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[BonesDT]

Did you test it yet? I'm curious to see if the spring set-up on the left hole has enough pressure to hold down the ON switch. I couldn't figure out if there needed to be a spring'ed ball or a solid shaft in that hole.

[Craniac]

Did you test it yet? I'm curious to see if the spring set-up on the left hole has enough pressure to hold down the ON switch. I couldn't figure out if there needed to be a spring'ed ball or a solid shaft in that hole.

Can't test drive until the pain meds wear off. Had one of my bum knees scoped last week. Still on pain killers.

I turned the key on and slid the switch to "on" LCD panel still said "off" When I rocked the switch up or down the LCD panel said cruise "on". But when I let go of the switch it went back to "off".

The stenciled words for the cruise control lit up real pretty when I powered up the bike.

[Craniac]

90292pretty lights.


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[BonesDT]

Can't test drive until the pain meds wear off. Had one of my bum knees scoped last week. Still on pain killers.

I turned the key on and slid the switch to "on" LCD panel still said "off" When I rocked the switch up or down the LCD panel said cruise "on". But when I let go of the switch it went back to "off".

The stenciled words for the cruise control lit up real pretty when I powered up the bike.

Ha, yea, that's a good idea not to ryde. Get better.

Sounds like you might not have enough pressure on the left spring assembly. This is definitely the trickiest part of this mod. I'm convinced there isn't supposed to be a spring there at all, or if there is, a very short and very tight spring. I think you need a very precisely cut to length rod in there, just short enough to clear the ramp but long enough to press the ON button all the way without tearing up the white rubber waterproof material.

[billrob71]

Seems stupid to not just have it on all if its already wired , I just looked , can not get the plastic rocker switch separate either. Apart of the pod and the cruise pod is $70 plus more for the one with the rocker switch on it???? :dontknow:

I wanna work on the putting the ST radio on my RS. pull the panels and it is wired for it already and the cluster shows the radio section. Plenty of room under the back for a small amp and sub and set of speakers inside the dash even with my HID ballasts mounted in there.

[BonesDT]

I wanna work on the putting the ST radio on my RS. pull the panels and it is wired for it already and the cluster shows the radio section. Plenty of room under the back for a small amp and sub and set of speakers inside the dash even with my HID ballasts mounted in there.

Awesome. Please write that one up! Soon, us RS guys will have an RT Limited with a few dollars in parts!!


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[billrob71]

Awesome. Please write that one up! Soon, us RS guys will have an RT Limited with a few dollars in parts!!


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Im tring to find someone with the install instructions for the ST, and most important that I don't loose my frunk space and not adding anything to mess the look up of the bike. I heard the JL speaker kit for the spyders and they sound great but really hate the way they look on the bike. I have a set of 2.5 inch bose speakers that fit perfect inside, just need to make a box for them to mount in .

[Craniac]

90351
I decided to try a stronger spring. Since I had made the hole a slightly larger diameter I figured a ball point spring may work. Cut it about 3/8" and installed. Cruise now comes on. Sometimes I have to wiggle the switch a little so I know I am on the low side for spring pressure.

The better news. I have been off the pain meds for 24 hours so I took it for a test drive on a street that is never busy. It works perfect! Slide it over to "on", push down to set. LCD changes from "Cruise on" to "Cruise set". Push up, the bike speeds up about one mph. Push down, it slows one mph. Tap the brakes and the LCD goes from "set" to "on" and the bike slows. Push down again and the bike sets at the new speed.


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[ARCTIC]

Seems stupid to not just have it on all if its already wired , I just looked , can not get the plastic rocker switch separate either. Apart of the pod and the cruise pod is $70 plus more for the one with the rocker switch on it???? :dontknow:

I wanna work on the putting the ST radio on my RS. pull the panels and it is wired for it already and the cluster shows the radio section. Plenty of room under the back for a small amp and sub and set of speakers inside the dash even with my HID ballasts mounted in there.

When i was installing my BRP passenger back rest, I saw what I believe is the radio unit up inside the rear fender on the right side. I looked and the part number is 710003552 but it says that it's "not available" and doesn't list a price for it either

[ARCTIC]

I guess you can buy it. Honda East Toledo shows $529.35 for it

[Craniac]

I wanna work on the putting the ST radio on my RS. pull the panels and it is wired for it already and the cluster shows the radio section. Plenty of room under the back for a small amp and sub and set of speakers inside the dash even with my HID ballasts mounted in there.

I installed the factory radio on my ST. The "instructions" were next to useless. About two words in 14 pages. The rest were line drawings with too many details removed to understand the drawing. Some of the pics were mildly helpful.

In short, the brain installs behind the plastic, on the right side under the passenger grab rail. The wiring harness runs forward along the gas tank seam. It is held in place with supplied zip ties. Wiring harness hooks to the blank connector that it fits. Again, pretty obvious when you see it.

The large connector hooks to the similar sized large connector on the left side, near the radio brain. Use some of the little green silicon plugs to fill the empty holes on the new connector. They are just used to keep grime out of the unused pins in case you ever want to add more Farkles.

Drill a hole in the plastic for the antenna. Then a much smaller hole for the bracket to hook into. You will understand when you see the factory antenna. Ground comes from the bolt for the "brain" bracket. The extra antenna cable and ground strap gets coiled up and zip tied on the left side, kind of behind the brain. Pictures of this step were useless. Just wad it up and zip tie it somewhere.

[Craniac]

BonesDT PM me your address and shirt size. As a "Thank You" I might be able to find a polo shirt with a embroidered Spyder logo in your size. Also what color shirt and logo would you like?

[ARCTIC]

The complete right hand switch housing new is part number 710003921 and sells for $301.85 with free shipping

[billrob71]

90351
I decided to try a stronger spring. Since I had made the hole a slightly larger diameter I figured a ball point spring may work. Cut it about 3/8" and installed. Cruise now comes on. Sometimes I have to wiggle the switch a little so I know I am on the low side for spring pressure.

The better news. I have been off the pain meds for 24 hours so I took it for a test drive on a street that is never busy. It works perfect! Slide it over to "on", push down to set. LCD changes from "Cruise on" to "Cruise set". Push up, the bike speeds up about one mph. Push down, it slows one mph. Tap the brakes and the LCD goes from "set" to "on" and the bike slows. Push down again and the bike sets at the new speed.


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good to hear it's working but better that your off the pain meds

[billrob71]

I installed the factory radio on my ST. The "instructions" were next to useless. About two words in 14 pages. The rest were line drawings with too many details removed to understand the drawing. Some of the pics were mildly helpful.

In short, the brain installs behind the plastic, on the right side under the passenger grab rail. The wiring harness runs forward along the gas tank seam. It is held in place with supplied zip ties. Wiring harness hooks to the blank connector that it fits. Again, pretty obvious when you see it.

The large connector hooks to the similar sized large connector on the left side, near the radio brain. Use some of the little green silicon plugs to fill the empty holes on the new connector. They are just used to keep grime out of the unused pins in case you ever want to add more Farkles.

Drill a hole in the plastic for the antenna. Then a much smaller hole for the bracket to hook into. You will understand when you see the factory antenna. Ground comes from the bolt for the "brain" bracket. The extra antenna cable and ground strap gets coiled up and zip tied on the left side, kind of behind the brain. Pictures of this step were useless. Just wad it up and zip tie it somewhere.

Yeah that's what I'm looking for , wanna compare the wiring and need a content list of what the kit contains

[billrob71]

When i was installing my BRP passenger back rest, I saw what I believe is the radio unit up inside the rear fender on the right side. I looked and the part number is 710003552 but it says that it's "not available" and doesn't list a price for it either

Ive had mine all apart in the back and the wiring harnes I there but nothing else, I need the destructions for what the kit comes with I have not found a speaker harness up front but maybe it comes with the kit otherwise I gotta find the connections in the front and the front harness in the ST parts list

[Bob Denman]

90351
I decided to try a stronger spring. Since I had made the hole a slightly larger diameter I figured a ball point spring may work. Cut it about 3/8" and installed. Cruise now comes on. Sometimes I have to wiggle the switch a little so I know I am on the low side for spring pressure.

The better news. I have been off the pain meds for 24 hours so I took it for a test drive on a street that is never busy. It works perfect! Slide it over to "on", push down to set. LCD changes from "Cruise on" to "Cruise set". Push up, the bike speeds up about one mph. Push down, it slows one mph. Tap the brakes and the LCD goes from "set" to "on" and the bike slows. Push down again and the bike sets at the new speed.


:congrats: :clap: :2thumbs:

[Craniac]

The complete right hand switch housing new is part number 710003921 and sells for $301.85 with free shipping

I think you could buy this switch then take it apart. Take your non-cruise switch apart and swap the new-working cruise switch for the dummy switch and the cruise would work. Just the little black part shown in the photos, held down by three torx screws.

If you could find a used right hand control switch it could even be a cheaper way to get cruise.

All you would need is the black plastic rocker switch held down by three screws.

Make sure the switch is in the off position when you take the three screws out. If it is in the on position you will loose something (probably a ball bearing and spring) out the back of the switch. Easy enough to reinstall if you can find the pieces. But why take the chance?

[Craniac]

Ive had mine all apart in the back and the wiring harnes I there but nothing else, I need the destructions for what the kit comes with I have not found a speaker harness up front but maybe it comes with the kit otherwise I gotta find the connections in the front and the front harness in the ST parts list

I started a new thread with a couple pics of the installation manual. The entire parts list is included.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?69003-BRP-Radio-Install-Instruction-Manual&p=829795#post829795

[Bob Denman]

Is there a source for these switches among the cycle salvage yards?
(Any RT switch from 2010 and on would work... :thumbup:)

[ARCTIC]

Is there a source for these switches among the cycle salvage yards?
(Any RT switch from 2010 and on would work... :thumbup:)

Wonder if they could determine the switch manufacturer and buy a handful of them?

[Bob Denman]

Are there any telltale markings on the insides of the housings? :dontknow:

(This is just so COOL :D ... cruise control; at a very reduced price! :thumbup:)

[Craniac]

I wasn't looking for a manufacturer while I was in there. But I don't remember any logos or words. I do remember the date of manufacture "circles". But that is all.


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[ARCTIC]

Are there any telltale markings on the insides of the housings? :dontknow:

(This is just so COOL :D ... cruise control; at a very reduced price! :thumbup:)

I agree. This doesn't even benefit me and I'm interested in helping:roflblack:

[Bob Denman]

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_11_4.gif(Me either; my RT Limited already has it... Just like your ST Limited)

[Craniac]

90369
Cut the dummy switch down. I think it will work.


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[Bob Denman]

...Waiting for the confirmation...
:bbq::bbq::bbq:

[MtlBen]

This reminds me of my last car: a new 2006 Dodge Charger R/T.

Chrysler did not have auto headlight option available in 2006. When it became available in 2007, I checked what parts I needed, and it was only the switch's plastic knob that had an "A" printed on it and on which the back was molded a bit differently to allow the switch to go one notch further.

I just "dremelled" the back of my 2006 knob and Voilà ! Auto headlight. It just pissed me off that Chrysler purposefully prevented me from using something that was already built into the car, with the hardware that I had already paid for.

...Ben...

[Craniac]

It just pissed me off that Chrysler purposefully prevented me from using something that was already built into the car, with the hardware that I had already paid for.

...Ben...

One of the dealers I asked about adding a cruise to my bike told me that it would be expensive. It would be cheaper to "trade up". If I had traded my bike in for a more expensive Spyder and later found out the cruise was already on the bike. I would not have been happy.

How many customers opted for the more expensive "Limited" models just to get Cruise?

[ARCTIC]

One of the dealers I asked about adding a cruise to my bike told me that it would be expensive. It would be cheaper to "trade up". If I had traded my bike in for a more expensive Spyder and later found out the cruise was already on the bike. I would not have been happy.

How many customers opted for the more expensive "Limited" models just to get Cruise?

I opted for the limited because of the cruise and the radio. After I got it home I discovered that the saddlebags are pretty handy too.

[BonesDT]

I opted for the limited because of the cruise and the radio. After I got it home I discovered that the saddlebags are pretty handy too.

There's a spot on the side of the seat that if you Dremel a little bit, saddle bags will appear on each side.


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[ARCTIC]

There's a spot on the side of the seat that if you Dremel a little bit, saddle bags will appear on each side.


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:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::cheer s::cheers:

Damn..... guess I should have gotten a RS and turned it into a RT :roflblack: Let me know when you find how to enable the 3rd cylinder and turn it into a 1330 :coffee:

[Craniac]

90369
Cut the dummy switch down. I think it will work.


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Took the bike for a test ride. The cut down switch did not work. The switch could not rock far enough to engage cruise. Went home and removed the face plate.
Then went for a forty mile ride. Cruise worked perfect. It holds the speed going up hill and downhill. Needless to say I am very happy with the mod.

[BonesDT]

Took the bike for a test ride. The cut down switch did not work. The switch could not rock far enough to engage cruise. Went home and removed the face plate.
Then went for a forty mile ride. Cruise worked perfect. It holds the speed going up hill and downhill. Needless to say I am very happy with the mod.

I cut my blank down to use as a switch just like yours. You also have to cut the inside overhang to allow it to fully engage. Only problem now is, since it's only one bolt in the middle, the "switch" rotates in a circle.

I did not use a spring for the left hole. Just a solid plastic shaft with a rounded end cut to an exact length (just short of being flush) and it reliably holds down the ON button:
90412


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[Craniac]

If mine quits working, I might follow your lead.

I have been toying with ideas for a custom made switch. It works in my brain. The problem would be making it work in real life. You just need a way to push and hold one button, and momentary contact on the other two. The momentary contact is simple. Holding the "on" button down is the harder part. Push too hard and you could destroy the silicon pad.

I did grind away quite a bit of the back of the blank. Not quite enough. I didn't like how far out it stood. I was afraid something like a coat sleeve could accidentally catch it and tear it apart. I need to look at a factory switch to see how BRP did it.

[hchays]

:yes:I am a happy camper right now, cause I have cruise!!!! This is pretty easy mod over-all. I had an issue finding the correct tension for the on button, but I did and now it works. I used the pen spring and b.b. idea. I have found that not all pen springs are the same. I used a softer one cut 1/2 off and it didn't give me enough tension. Then I tried a stiffer pen spring and only cut about 1/4 off and it seems to work. Now I'm off to figure out a switch cover. :thumbup: BonesDT thank you for finding and posting this mod. I would have been pissed :mad: if I had bought the RS-S because I wanted cruise (like I almost did).

[Craniac]

Went for a ride today. Found a nice decreasing radius turn. Had the cruise set. Apparently the Nanny wasn't having as much fun as I was. She turned the cruise control off.

So it looks like this mod provides all the factory safety features.

[ARCTIC]

Went for a ride today. Found a nice decreasing radius turn. Had the cruise set. Apparently the Nanny wasn't having as much fun as I was. She turned the cruise control off.

So it looks like this mod provides all the factory safety features.

Glad it works!! It doesn't take much of a shake of the bars to get nanny to cut you off:lecturef_smilie:

[hchays]

Has anyone finalized their switch plate. I haven't had a chance to make one yet and wondered if anyone has and how they made it. BTW.. I went for a nice ride today and the cruise worked perfectly. It's so nice to be able to give my right hand a break.

[Jed_S]

I copped out and took the "easy" way. I purchased a right hand housing switch for an RS-S (2013, same as my RS). The only difference between it and the stock housing is the cruise slider; otherwise they are identical right down to the connectors and wire colors. I can confirm that all the functionality of the cruise works perfectly on my RS, quite a nice feature.

The part number is 710003574 and I purchased it from powersportswarehouse.com for about $300.

94795

[hchays]

If your interested in doing this mod but don't feel confident. I have for sale a complete right hand control with the mod already done. I posted it in the For Sale section of Spyder Lovers.

[coz]

Has anyone finalized their switch plate. I haven't had a chance to make one yet and wondered if anyone has and how they made it. BTW.. I went for a nice ride today and the cruise worked perfectly. It's so nice to be able to give my right hand a break. ......THAT'S what SHE said.:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.....:joke:

[ARtraveler]

Great stuff! "I see nothing, I hear nothing." :roflblack:

[hchays]

......THAT'S what SHE said.:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.....:joke:

Well played sir, well played.....:bowdown:

[Tnpapa]

I replace the switch with a switch out of an ST control unit from powersports and the cruise works like a charm.

[BonesDT]

I replace the switch with a switch out of an ST control unit from powersports and the cruise works like a charm.

Where did you order the switch from? powersports? How much?

[Tnpapa]

Where did you order the switch from? powersports? How much?

Order it from powersports.com and it was 302.00

[Spyder ri]

Would this switch replacement work on a 2012 RS or is it a completely different setup?

[DrewNJ]

Would this switch replacement work on a 2012 RS or is it a completely different setup?
No, Completely different setup. DBW vs Cable.

[Spyder ri]

Thanks

[Michaelscs]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! New to my Spyder(1 week & 800 miles so far) & new to the forum. I bought a used 2014 ST because it fit my budget. I wanted a ST-S for the cruise but I couldn't find one that fit my budget. Now, because of you guys I have the one option I really wanted! What an awesome find!

Thanks again,
Mike

[WA5VHU]

2013 RS basic.

When I had my first service at the dealer I asked if he had any right-hand pull-offs and he gave me one that was bad but wasn't sent back to BRP for warranty. Today I took the plastic switch assembly out of the bad one and put it in the one on my RS and viola! I have cruise control!

Thank you so much to BonesDT, Craniac, and all those that helped here and made it so easy!


Charles

[CoolSpyder2014]

I copped out and took the "easy" way. I purchased a right hand housing switch for an RS-S (2013, same as my RS). The only difference between it and the stock housing is the cruise slider; otherwise they are identical right down to the connectors and wire colors. I can confirm that all the functionality of the cruise works perfectly on my RS, quite a nice feature.

The part number is 710003574 and I purchased it from powersportswarehouse.com for about $300.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94795&stc=1

Did you have any issues with this vendor? I looked them up and the BBB gave them an "F" rating.

[Jed_S]

Did you have any issues with this vendor? I looked them up and the BBB gave them an "F" rating.
I've never had issues. I've purchased many things from them, too. They are physically located only 1.5 hrs from me so if I ever have problems I can go to the store. They are always way cheaper than anywhere else.

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[latony007]

This is even more prevalent in the RT......It is way less expensive for the manufactorer to say run the EXACT same wiring harness including all the connectors ....than it is put in separate & different harnesses........Take the HEATED PASS. GRIPS on the RT ....I think if I just buy the SWITCH and connect it ......the heat elements are already in the grips .......I could be wrong..... ...but maybe not :gaah:...Mikeguyver :thumbup:

Anyone know if this is true? My daughter would be sooooo happy with my. She was ticked i didnt get the S that had the heated passenger grips!!!

BTW congrats on coming up with this cruise mod, very clever.

[Trec1]

I just did this modification this weekend. It works great! I do need to come up with a better pin for the cruise activation shaft, but it works for now. Thanks for the info. Why BRP doesn't do this on the standard F3 is a mystery to me. But it really is quite a simple modification.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Just got a used 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SM5 and really love it; consequently joined the forum.

I thought it had cruise because the pictures shows the instrument panel as Cruise OFF; but evidently, it's optional on the SM5 vs the SE5.

Anyway, really glad I found this thread. I found it when searching for a used RH Housing Switch that had the cruise control button by using the part number 710003574. This part number does not even show under the SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the SE5 BTW.

So I followed the instructions from 2014 by BonesDT...thank you for sharing! Instructions were easy to follow and the cruise works great. I too used the cut down pen springs and BB's method. See my pic for dummy switch with springs and my Spyder where I bought it. As mentioned previously, the spring that pushes the cruise ON button needs to be fairly strong or it won't stay on.

Can't wait to get back on the road with my Spyder. If anyone lives in South Florida, give me a shout and let's go riding! It's the best time of year right now.

[Possible]

Nice to see another STS-SM5. Peggy's Spyder came with cruise, and I actually thought it was standard on the STS, and there's no mention
of it being an option with the ST-S, or the ST-S Ltd. Learn something new everyday.

[Michaelscs]

I believe it's an ST vs ST-S difference, not a SM5 vs SE5 thing. The ST-S came standard with cruise. The ST does not have cruise. I had a 2014 ST SM5 and it didn't have cruise. My friend had a 2014 ST-S SM5 and it had cruise. Are you sure you have an ST-S? I did the same mod as you to ad cruise to my ST. Worked great!
STSScreaminDemon, if the picture in your post is of your bike, it's an ST. Based on the wheels, frame color, and muffler shield covers.
On the ST-S those things are black.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Thank you for the replies Possible and Michaelscs. When I was doing my research, I had some confusion as well based on the wheels, frame color, and muffler shield covers. I expected to see the carbon black treatment on those items per this article: https://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/2013-canam-spyder-sts-roadster-review-91433.html

But also per that article, the ST does not come in Circuit Yellow Metallic at all. And as mentioned in my previous post, this cruise RH Housing Switch part number does not even show under the ST-S SM5 parts diagrams; had to go to the ST-S SE5 layout. This seems to suggest that it is not standard on the SM5. The sticker on the bike definitely does say ST-S; of course stickers can be purchased and applied so no proof there.

I guess the bottom line for me is, it doesn't really matter since the main difference is just features/optics and the bike looks damn good to me (and now has cruise).

187154

Happy riding gents.

[Possible]

It is a bit odd, I tried to find the RH handlebar switch assembly in the parts manual, and can only find the LH assembly. And
Peggy's ST-S is blacked out with black wheels, and the ST-S sticker.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Per the VIN lookup, it shows as an ST-S but like I said, I'm happy either way.

[Michaelscs]

Per the VIN lookup, it shows as an ST-S but like I said, I'm happy either way.

187157

That is curious. Perhaps you have a hybrid!;) I think a previous owner did some upgrades. It definitely has ST-S fenders, but it also has yellow upper A-arms. Neither the ST or ST-S had body colored A-arms. It also has 2014 upper side panels. This was a service bulletin upgrade for 2013 models with heat issues. On the other hand, it has a ST handlebar.
I do know the 2013 ST-S SM5 had cruise. When I bought my '14 ST SM5 I had also checked out two '13 ST-S SM5's and they both had factory cruise. In any case, I'm glad your enjoying your ST/ST-S and good job on the cruise upgrade!!!

[Possible]

Peggy's ST-S SM5 has body colored A-arm covers.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Thanks Michaelscs, you definitely know your stuff. I noticed the 2014 upper side panels as well, so "hybrid" it is. I really like how those air scoops look so bonus for me.

It's great that the engine loves the high RPM's. That's why I call her the Screamin' Demon. The 998cc's really move the bike even though it's 800+ lbs and I'm 200 lbs myself. I'll share one of my acceleration experiences on another thread that's more appropriate.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Reread the thread and it doesn't look like anyone found a switch cover solution other than ordering RH Housing Switch part number 710003574. Unfortunately, the price is up to $440 now so seems a bit much to get a plastic knob. My search on the Internet for a black knob meant for sliding has turned up nothing. I've search for "slider switch", "sliding knob", "sliding switch cover", on and on. Nothing. I think I might be able to make the original cover work like Craniac attempted. Just have to leave enough room between the cover and the switch to allow for the up and down rocking. I'll let everyone know if it works without looking ridiculous. If anyone has made something else work, please share the info. I'm using a small black screw now to give me leverage on the switch and it doesn't look too bad; may have to live with it if nothing else works.

Also to clarify the BB's I used, they were zinc plated .177 caliber (probably standard but decided to mention anyway). That's 4.5mm so I did have to enlarge the holes in the switch but only slightly; just shaved a few tenths of a mm really.

[Michaelscs]

I was fortunate enough to have a friend that does some machining and he made an almost stock looking switch out of aluminum. That was over 5 years and 5 Spyders ago, so I'm afraid I can't give you any more details.

[STSScreaminDemon]

So I took the original cover and cut it down along the ridges on the back with a box knife. This is a pic of one side done.
187227

After all four sides were cut down, I added a plastic spacer on the screw to allow room for up and down rocking of the cover. Also, and very important, I beveled the top and bottom edges of the cover so they lay flat whenever I press on the top of the cover (for resume/accel) or the bottom (for set/decel). Pic is not the best focus but you get the idea.
187228

Works great and looks much better than just the screw sticking up. Most people would not even notice it's not factory. Will add final pic once I find the plastic insert to go over the screw head. That thing likes to hide sometimes.

[STSScreaminDemon]

Well since I started contributing to this thread, the RH Housing Switch part number 710003574 went from $440 to now $540. I think BRP caught on.

Consequently, I'm providing an option. Hopefully more people will discover they already have cruise control with a little effort.

So here's the old blank cover after being cut down
187564

Same cover at night
187565

View from top. The spacer could probably be reduced some but wanted to have reliable up and down action
187566

View from top when pressing accelerate
187567

[RobertB57]

Can someone post pics of placement of bb and springs in switch?