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Lamonster
09-07-2008, 06:29 PM
I haven't had one go bad yet but a few folks have so I picked up a spare to throw in the trunk from Autozone. This will work for all three relays.
Duralast 19271 41-5100 relay

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=7277
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2&pictureid=7276

BRPjunkie
09-07-2008, 06:35 PM
Same model available at Advance Auto Parts fort $8, so it beats BRP Dealer's order and wait process.

retread
09-18-2008, 12:46 PM
I went to my friendly local NAPA store,same relay, same number, $28.95, the guy told me to check some wrecking yards, lots of the Toyotas and Honda use the same relay, and the yards will give them away. But I think I'll try AutoZone.

spyder3rdr
09-18-2008, 07:40 PM
[quote=Lamonster;48751]I haven't had one go bad yet but a few folks have so I picked up a spare to throw in the trunk from Autozone. This will work for all three relays.

Thats why you are the Man !!! turns out that was what is wrong with my Spyder ... the dealer told me my instrument cluster was going bad and they would have to replace it ... not only have you helped us (Spyder owners) save money but time as well ... Thanks for All you do !!!

SpyderDee
09-18-2008, 09:23 PM
I went to my friendly local NAPA store,same relay, same number, $28.95, the guy told me to check some wrecking yards, lots of the Toyotas and Honda use the same relay, and the yards will give them away. But I think I'll try AutoZone.

Retread, you got robbed! The NAPA stores here (Clendenin, WV) sell them for $12. :yikes:

You were *&^() without even a kiss!!

retread
09-18-2008, 09:29 PM
Actually, when I stopped laughing, I left it on the counter.

mrb
11-20-2008, 09:58 PM
Hi guys
I have tried locally and no one can help me with a relay as a spare. Neither can I find a suitable relay on EBay and Autozone don't seem to allow anyone outside the USA to order online.:dontknow:
I have not asked BRP here as a reversing cable just cost me $100 and the sports rack is nearly $800 so I guess they will want $50 or so for a relay.

Can anyone help me pick up a couple? If you have an PayPal account I can transfer the money easy enough. If they are still a reasonable price I may get 5or 6 so others in Australia can have a spare if they need one.

bjt
11-20-2008, 10:13 PM
I'll do it. I sent out two SpyderLovers Tshirts to another aussie member here and the cost to ship was under $20. Shipping relays may be a bit higher as they'll have to go in a box and the Tshirts went in a padded envelope, which was cheaper. Let me know how many you are looking for so I can work on scrounging them up. When we tried to buy three for ourselves, we had to go to two different auto parts stores to get that many.

retread
11-20-2008, 10:18 PM
In an earlier post, I stated that a parts counter man told me the relays in Spyders are also used in many Toyotas and Hondas (cars), it might be worth it to take one in and cross reference it.

mrb
12-01-2008, 07:11 PM
I'll do it. I sent out two SpyderLovers Tshirts to another aussie member here and the cost to ship was under $20. Shipping relays may be a bit higher as they'll have to go in a box and the Tshirts went in a padded envelope, which was cheaper. Let me know how many you are looking for so I can work on scrounging them up. When we tried to buy three for ourselves, we had to go to two different auto parts stores to get that many.

Thanks BJT. I am just checking a possible source of a Tyco relay here but I am not hopeful. Any idea what you paid for the 3 you scrounged? Will let you know how my Tyco enquiry pans out.. Again big thanks for the offer of help - really appreciated.

bjt
12-01-2008, 08:11 PM
I'm thinking they were $8 - $12, somewhere in that price range. My wife picked them up so I don't remember for sure what she said she paid for them. Anyways, if you want me to get some relays for you, send me a PM along with a post here to be sure I see it in a timely fashion. :thumbup:

kma10-4
12-03-2008, 12:48 AM
I'm thinking they were $8 - $12, somewhere in that price range. My wife picked them up so I don't remember for sure what she said she paid for them. Anyways, if you want me to get some relays for you, send me a PM along with a post here to be sure I see it in a timely fashion. :thumbup:
i paid $9.95 at the dealer

vt228
02-09-2009, 02:04 PM
I payed 14.00 for one here in mass, I got 2 and a fuzz box spares so i well have extra fusses and if someone neaded one I can help. if you nead one let me no call me 508-477-7187

Degaman
02-10-2009, 01:50 PM
$8.95 at Autozone... just picked up two.

trikester
02-10-2009, 03:26 PM
How does one know when there is a problem with the relay as opposed to some other cause of a malfunction?

It would be very useful to be able to quickly diagnose a relay problem and put in the spare and in the right position as well.

Lamonster
02-10-2009, 03:37 PM
How does one know when there is a problem with the relay as opposed to some other cause of a malfunction?

It would be very useful to be able to quickly diagnose a relay problem and put in the spare and in the right position as well.
If you change the relay and it works that was the problem. ;)

bjt
02-10-2009, 03:53 PM
If you change the relay and it works that was the problem. ;)


:agree: In the posts I've read about relay problems, I don't recall a single one saying that "I had problem x, I traced it through circuit y and determined that relay z was bad." Depending on the problem, maybe you could start the troubleshooting by just removing and reseating the relays. If the problem persists try swapping the relays, one for the other, to see if the problem moves or changes. If it does, one of the relays is bad or flakey. If it doesn't, you either have two bad relays or the problem is elsewhere.

Rando
02-10-2009, 07:45 PM
How does one know when there is a problem with the relay as opposed to some other cause of a malfunction?My problem turned out to be a loose relay rather than a bad one. Now I have a spare.

SpyderByter
02-11-2009, 05:05 AM
When that relay goes bad, what happens (or does not happen) with the Spyder?

Rando
02-11-2009, 12:41 PM
In my case, the Spyder stalled out at a light and then all sorts of error messages were displayed on the instrument cluster. I turned it off, pushed it off the road, waited a few minutes and then restarted it and rode back home.

SpyderByter
02-11-2009, 06:01 PM
Thanks for the info, sounds like having a spare in the bike is a great idea!

LDFIREWORKS
02-11-2009, 06:09 PM
GOT ONE AT AUTO FOR $8.00 THANKS FOR THE INFO LAMONT YOUR THE MANNNNNNNNNN:2thumbs::2thumbs::spyder2::spyder:

jetskier
02-11-2009, 06:59 PM
Does anyone know which one of the relays in the fuse box looks after the indicator/blinker flash?

Dudley
02-11-2009, 07:08 PM
I'll do it. I sent out two SpyderLovers Tshirts to another aussie member here and the cost to ship was under $20. Shipping relays may be a bit higher as they'll have to go in a box and the Tshirts went in a padded envelope, which was cheaper. Let me know how many you are looking for so I can work on scrounging them up. When we tried to buy three for ourselves, we had to go to two different auto parts stores to get that many.

Did you check out the Postal Service Priorty International Flat Rate box? Should be way less than $20 and you can put as much in it as possible as long as you do not change the box conformity. No weight limitations.

bjt
02-11-2009, 08:36 PM
Thanks for the heads up. We got it taken care of and I always ship the cheapest and best way possible. I can't remember exactly what the shipping cost but I know the price was right. :thumbup:

trikester
02-12-2009, 01:08 PM
I printed Lamonster's posted photo and took it to Autozone to get my spare relay. That made it real easy, just handing the photo showing the part number to the sales clerk. Unfortunately, the bin where that part was supposed to be was empty.

The clerk wrote down the part number and said he would re-stock it right away. He also offered to order it for me but I said; "no rush, I'll check back in a couple of weeks". He said it will be in stock by then for sure. Of course he could sell out of stock, before I come back, if he gets a flock of Spyder owners buying the spare relays. :joke: Not likely! :D

Then I could blame Lamonster for making this such a popular item. :mad:

D&J's#2
05-11-2009, 03:03 PM
Thanks for the info. I'm on my way to pick up 2:2thumbs:

Blinc
05-15-2009, 10:50 AM
Autoparts store is the way to go for sure!
I forgot I had ordered this relay from the dealership and while I was there this morning getting my exhaust problem fixed, they advised me the part was in. Cost oh, only $42 and some change!!
Told them to re-stock it, I would even pay the restock fee as I thought that was a tad bit outrageous on pricing.

Twodog185
05-15-2009, 02:19 PM
If you change the relay and it works that was the problem. ;)


Thanks for the "heads up". $8.95 times 2...worth every penny for the secure feeling.

Thanks

Neez
05-17-2009, 12:36 PM
I could not find a Duralast locally (west coast, Canada), so I showed Lamonsters photo to the clerk at Lordco Auto Parts in Mission. He substituted a relay by an outfit called BWD, part # R3110. I tried it out in the headlight socket and it works fine. Cost was $17.77, Canadian.

Rando
05-26-2009, 10:26 AM
A Spyder owner I know did some more research on the Duralast relay and found out that it might not be a perfect match since the amps are different than the stock relay. Here is the info:

could you please give me the operating specs of your relay # 41 5100 it is available as a Duralast # 19271

Dan,
From our database:

Hope this helps,

Joe Dantuono
Quality Assurance


The relay from Auto Zone is a 20/10, we need 30/20 for the bike. I asked Sorensen (the maker) for the spec and they sent it out.

Lamonster
05-26-2009, 11:04 AM
A Spyder owner I know did some more research on the Duralast relay and found out that it might not be a perfect match since the amps are different than the stock relay. Here is the info:

could you please give me the operating specs of your relay # 41 5100 it is available as a Duralast # 19271

Dan,
From our database:

Hope this helps,

Joe Dantuono
Quality Assurance


The relay from Auto Zone is a 20/10, we need 30/20 for the bike. I asked Sorensen (the maker) for the spec and they sent it out.





So do we have a part number for the correct relay? I've been looking since our phone call and I can't find anything on it.

The relay I posted was the relay that AZ came up with when they checked it in the Autozone computer. :dontknow:

Rando
05-26-2009, 11:07 AM
He requested an equivalent part number for the 30/20 but hasn't recieved one yet. If and when he gets it, I will post it.

BRPjunkie
05-26-2009, 12:09 PM
Has anyone actually tried the AZ relay. I have been riding around with it as a spare thinking I'm ready and that may not be the case. The AZ store here in MI did the same file search and sold me the Duralast as a match. Apparently not?

Lamonster
05-26-2009, 12:10 PM
Yes, it works fine.

BRPjunkie
05-26-2009, 12:36 PM
Yes, it works fine.

Figured as much. Maybe it would be easier to ask, what haven't you tried? :dontknow:

Rando
05-26-2009, 12:46 PM
The friend that shared the info with me said it will work for two out of the three. The fan relay needs a 30/20 or it will fail.

I am NOT the expert. He is not on the forum so I am just sharing info.

BRPjunkie
05-26-2009, 12:58 PM
The friend that shared the info with me said it will work for two out of the three. The fan relay needs a 30/20 or it will fail.

I am NOT the expert. He is not on the forum so I am just sharing info.

Then you should be fine by swapping out a good 30/20 relay to the fan slot and using the spare 20/10 for the other slot in an emergency.

bjt
05-26-2009, 03:49 PM
I wonder what else could be powered off of that fan relay. 30 amps seems like an awful lot for that little fan. I might try to look at the wiring diagrams tonight to see if I can figure out for myself why there is a need for 30 amp capable relays.

Lamonster
05-26-2009, 06:13 PM
Headlights would draw 9.1 amps
Not sure what the main relay would draw or the fan relay. :dontknow::popcorn:

Rando
05-26-2009, 07:53 PM
BJT, It was Karen's bike that blew a fan relay. Dan said the original was a 30/20 and the Autozone replacement was a 20/10. They ordered a 30/20 from the dealer today for $10.00.
I wonder what else could be powered off of that fan relay. 30 amps seems like an awful lot for that little fan. I might try to look at the wiring diagrams tonight to see if I can figure out for myself why there is a need for 30 amp capable relays.

NancysToy
05-26-2009, 08:37 PM
The Headlamp Relay (R2) is fed by a 30 amp fuse, but that fuse also serves the 10 amp foglight circuit, which is not relay operated. The Cooling Fan Relay (R4) is fed by a 15 amp fuse. Both these fuses feed both the relay contacts and coils. Main Relay 2 (R3) is fed by the main 40 amp fuse for the contacts, and a 10 amp fuse for the coil (shared with Main Relay 1 coil). The Main Relay 2 contacts feed 4 fuses down circuit, for a total allowable load of 23 amps. Main Relay 1 (R1) contacts are also fed by the 40 amp main fuse. These contacts feed two fuses down circuit, for a total of 25 amps.

Good electrical practice dictates that the any components should be able to carry at least as much amperage as the wires that feed them and the circuit protection (fuses). That would dictate a minimum of a 30 amp relay for the headlights, a 15 amp relay for the fan, and 40 amp relays for the remaining two. Only the stock Tyco fan relay meets this standard, although the load for the headlight relay is probably within limits unless a short circuit develops. The large VF28 Main Relay 1 meets the downstream circuit's requirements, but at 35 amps, is rated slightly below the load of the main fuse. Substitution of the smaller VJ28 relay in this position appears to be insuffiecient for the load, if the Spyder's circuitry has not been changed to accomodate the smaller relay. The possible load on Main Relay 2 exceeds that relay's continuous current rating.

From what I can find, the Tyco VF28 relay is a standard unit with Form A contacts (make-break). The three VJ28 relays are apparently specially ordered from Tyco in a higher rating than their standard VJ28 relay. The Tyco data sheet says this is possible, and it explains the non-standard part number. These would appear to have a Form C contact (changeover), but are used as make-break on the Spyder. It is all very confusing.

As a result of what has been posted here today, and my research, I am no longer comfortable using the Duralast relay as a spare. I will buy one of each of the BRP relays, although they do not seem to be as reliable as they could be...or of sufficient ratings for the most part. They are rated higher than the auto store replacements, however.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

Dudley
05-26-2009, 08:45 PM
The Headlamp Relay (R2) is fed by a 30 amp fuse, but that fuse also serves the 10 amp foglight circuit, which is not relay operated. The Cooling Fan Relay (R4) is fed by a 15 amp fuse. Both these fuses feed both the relay contacts and coils. Main Relay 2 (R3) is fed by the main 40 amp fuse for the contacts, and a 10 amp fuse for the coil (shared with Main Relay 1 coil). The Main Relay 2 contacts feed 4 fuses down circuit, for a total allowable load of 23 amps. Main Relay 1 (R1) contacts are also fed by the 40 amp main fuse. These contacts feed two fuses down circuit, for a total of 25 amps.

Good electrical practice dictates that the any components should be able to carry at least as much amperage as the wires that feed them and the circuit protection (fuses). That would dictate a minimum of a 30 amp relay for the headlights, a 15 amp relay for the fan, and 40 amp relays for the remaining two. Only the stock Tyco fan relay meets this standard, although the load for the headlight relay is probably within limits unless a short circuit develops. The large VF28 Main Relay 1 meets the downstream circuit's requirements, but at 35 amps, is rated slightly below the load of the main fuse. Substitution of the smaller VJ28 relay in this position appears to be insuffiecient for the load, if the Spyder's circuitry has not been changed to accomodate the smaller relay. The possible load on Main Relay 2 exceeds that relay's continuous current rating.

From what I can find, the Tyco VF28 relay is a standard unit with Form A contacts (make-break). The three VJ28 relays are apparently specially ordered from Tyco in a higher rating than their standard VJ28 relay. The Tyco data sheet says this is possible, and it explains the non-standard part number. These would appear to have a Form C contact (changeover), but are used as make-break on the Spyder. It is all very confusing.

As a result of what has been posted here today, and my research, I am no longer comfortable using the Duralast relay as a spare. I will buy one of each of the BRP relays, although they do not seem to be as reliable as they could be...or of sufficient ratings for the most part. They are rated higher than the auto store replacements, however.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif


:(:dontknow::sour::helpsmilie::yikes::pray:
I am sooooooooo confused!!!!!

NancysToy
05-26-2009, 09:05 PM
:(:dontknow::sour::helpsmilie::yikes::pray:
I am sooooooooo confused!!!!!
Me too, and I'm the one that wrote it! :dontknow: In a nutshell, I don't feel the Autozone and other replacement relays are rated high enough, even though they seem to have worked for most people. I'm buying some BRP relays just to be safe.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

bjt
05-27-2009, 08:49 AM
I'll differ with Scotty and Rando's buddy on this one. After looking through the schematics, I think the VJ28 replacements (Duralast, BWD, etc.) that people are buying from auto parts stores are good enough for all three positions and possibly good enough to replace the larger main relay.

These are my reasons...

My Duralast relay was actually manufactured by Pokorny and this is a data sheet of their Micro relays. (http://www.pokornyrelays.com/page4.html) It is very similar to the TYCO VJ28 relays that are rated at 20/10 but their data sheet isn't as complete as the TYCO data sheet. It may have identical specs. :dontknow: Assuming they are identical, I'll use the more complete TYCO data sheet (http://documents.tycoelectronics.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=VJ28-X0000-A001&DocType=DS&DocLang=EN) for this information. First thing I'm going to do is disregard that 10 amp portion of their rating as the Spyder does not use that contact in any of the three relay positions. Next, the 20 amp contact rating is at 85 C or 185 F. At 23 C (about 75 F) the contacts are rated at 25 amps. I think that in the Spyder fuseholder location, the relays will operate in temps closer to 75 F than 185 F so the contacts can reliably handle more than 20 amps continuous, maybe up to 25 amps. Finally, the contacts are rated for an electrical of endurance of greater than 100,000 cycles at 20 amps load (they can turn on and off over 100,000 times while passing 20 amps through the contacts without failing).

The Headlamp relay is fused at 30 amps but feeds a 10 amp foglight fuse which doesn't go through the headlight relay. So the relay itself is counted on handling something less than 30 amps. The stock BRP lights are 55 watts times 2 or 110 watts total. 110 watts divided by 12 volts is the 9.1 (actually 9.1667) amps that lamonster referenced. I'm not sure what the HID lights and ballasts draw but I thought someone said that it was less than the stock lights. I'm not sure what the high/low shutter solenoid draws but it surely can't be more than 10 amps. Those are the only devices (headlamps and solenoids) that are powered through that relay. So, probably 99% of the time, that relay is passing current that is less than 20 amps likely only around 10 amps depending on when the solenoids are drawing power.

The Fan relay is fused at 15 amps. There is nothing else in that circuit so the 20 amp relay should be able to handle that circuit. I'm not sure what the actually fan motor electrical specs / current draw is but it should be less than the 15 amps its fused at.

The Main 2 relay feeds a 5 amp cluster fuse, a 10 amp (diagnostic connector, clutch valve, horn) fuse, a 3 amp switched accessory fuse and a 5 amp DPS control fuse. Of all those things, I think the horn is the highest current draw and that is only a seldom used, short duration draw. Some folks don't use the switched accessory connection at all or only sometimes so at least those two items would drop the total current draw down under 20 amps. The diagnostic connector would only draw power during maintenance / testing so that could further decrease the current draw of that portion of that circuit. I think its reasonable to expect that the Main 2 relay circuit draws less than 20 amps under normal operation. Note: being the switched accessory is powered through this relay with all these different devices in the circuit, it is just one more reason to not run more than 3 amps worth of accessories through that circuit.

On our 2008 Spyders, the Main 1 relay should continue to be the higher rated VF28 relay. I'm not sure what the actual current draws of all the devices it feeds is but it feeds a total of 25 amps of fuses. However, I think we can see that the VJ28 relay (operating in around 75 F temps) could probably be counted on to "get you home" if that main relay went kaput. Maybe the 2009 Spyder that was pictured with a VJ28 relay in this position has a different circuit design or different devices in the circuit that don't draw as much current through the relay. :dontknow:

Anyone who knows more about this, feel free to tell me where I'm wrong.

Lamonster
05-27-2009, 09:31 AM
Wow, great post Bro. Thanks for doing the research on this. :thumbup:

bjt
05-27-2009, 09:53 AM
Wow, great post Bro. Thanks for doing the research on this. :thumbup:

I'll send you my bill... :D :D :D :joke:

NancysToy
05-27-2009, 10:55 AM
:thumbup: Brian, I approached this from a strictly engineering point of view, and I'm sure you will agree that the fusing and the relay ratings don't seem to match. I like your more practical approach, and certainly agree that the actual loads on the circuits are probably far less than what the circuits are fused to handle, or what the relays are rated for. I also agree that a Duralast relay will be very likely to get you home...in any position. I am still hesitant to use one in the long run, however, given the higher rating of the custom VJ28 relays that are standard on the Spyder. They did not use the standard relay for a reason. We also both seem to agree that the earlier Spyders, at least, should probably use the VF28 relays for Main Relay 1. I will probably continue to keep a Duralast relay in the trunk as a spare, but I am certain to put at least one of each of the BRP relays on the shelf as a precaution, especially since they need to be ordered from most dealers. :D
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

bjt
05-27-2009, 11:26 AM
I tried approaching at least some of it from an engineering point of view also. I'm just more cynical than you about things like this. IMO, there are many reasons why a certain device is chosen when designing and building a product. One thing I have learned over the years of working in an industrial field is that just because something was used in the original manufacture of a product doesn't make it the only correct or even the most correct thing to use. Unfortunately, there are plenty of people who aren't as careful about how they do their job as I feel you or many of us would be. For all we know, the engineer in charge of the relays for the Spyder has a lot of stock in TYCO or got some type of kickback for "specifying" a non-standard relay. Stuff like that happens. :sour:

BTW, I'm not calling the BRP engineers incompetent but I don't believe they are God's gift to the engineering field either. For the most part, they have designed a super product right out of the gate with only a few major or semi-major problems.

BRPjunkie
05-27-2009, 12:00 PM
Much of the "special" part decision is to push business to their dealers for parts. They need you in dealer stores so you see more, buy more. If they used all off the shelf stuff, we'd all be in auto parts stores instead of the dealers. Oil, relays, light bulbs, tires are dealer profit items and in the end, that's not bad for us a owners.

Rando
05-27-2009, 12:56 PM
From another Spyder owner:

MasterPro Ignition part BWD REF: R3110 (SMP REF: RY-232) is exactly the same as the relay in our Spyder. This relay can be purchased at Murray’s. We compared the relay in the Spyder with the BWD: R3110. They are identical…including the schematic drawing, as well as the amperage at each terminal/prong.


Rodger at NordRide in Mount Morris, MI says the OEM relay we got at Murray’s is good. He also said that BRP sells this part for about $10.00. Now whether this price is to the dealers or the consumer, I don’t know. With that said, Murray’s sells it for around $9.00.

dltang
05-27-2009, 02:21 PM
From another Spyder owner:

MasterPro Ignition part BWD REF: R3110 (SMP REF: RY-232) is exactly the same as the relay in our Spyder. This relay can be purchased at Murray’s. We compared the relay in the Spyder with the BWD: R3110. They are identical…including the schematic drawing, as well as the amperage at each terminal/prong.


Rodger at NordRide in Brighton, MI says the OEM relay we got at Murray’s is good. He also said that BRP sells this part for about $10.00. Now whether this price is to the dealers or the consumer, I don’t know. With that said, Murray’s sells it for around $9.00.


Roger is our service manger for our spyders and he knows his stuff but NordRide is not in Brighton, it is in Mount Morris, just north of Flint.

Rando
05-27-2009, 02:55 PM
NordRide is not in Brighton, it is in Mount Morris.Oops! My mistake. I fixed my original post.

3wheeldemon
07-17-2009, 04:07 PM
I found equivalent relays from Song Chuan Relays

Main: TYCO VF28-15F14-S01 is identical to Song Chuan 898H-1CH-C-R1-U03-12VDC

Other three relays: TYCO VJ28-95F24-S01 is identical to Song Chuan 301-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC

J

bone crusher
07-17-2009, 04:16 PM
Order relays from Perry Performance (oem)...I ordered online...price is like 9.00 for the smaller relay and 30.00 for the bigger one...

To avoid any problems, this is probably the way to go...

burg650
07-17-2009, 04:21 PM
I notice that all the relays in my 2009 SE5 are the same, if I have to replace any I would prefer to do it with a stock one what is the part number so I can pick up a few from my dealer.

ataDude
07-17-2009, 04:49 PM
I notice that all the relays in my 2009 SE5 are the same, if I have to replace any I would prefer to do it with a stock one what is the part number so I can pick up a few from my dealer.




.
Just curious... why would you want to replace a stock relay with apparent reliability problems with more of the same? :hun:

I've several of the Duralasts now for more than a year with no further problems.

.

bone crusher
07-17-2009, 05:04 PM
.
Just curious... why would you want to replace a stock relay with apparent reliability problems with more of the same? :hun:

I've several of the Duralasts now for more than a year with no further problems.

.

Who's to say the Duralast is any better? Where is it documented that the stock relays have reliability issues? Perhaps on a case-by-case basis there are problems, but I'm sure not all the relays in all the bikes are bad. If we all had Duralast, we might have all the same issues, or even worse.

Think of all the mods we do to the bikes...some might not sit too well with the electrical system...

Also consider the vibration issue, any faulty lines, etc...

If a fuse or relay goes out over and over again, there is obviously a more serious problem...

My relays are fine so far and I hope they stay that way...if not, it's nice to have a few extras, no matter which brand they are. Only time will tell if the electrical system is faulty in any way...these things shouldn't be blowing under normal conditions regardless of which brand name they have on them...chances are that they're all made in the same factory anyway??

ataDude
07-17-2009, 05:16 PM
Who's to say the Duralast is any better? Where is it documented that the stock relays have reliability issues? Perhaps on a case-by-case basis there are problems, but I'm sure not all the relays in all the bikes are bad. If we all had Duralast, we might have all the same issues, or even worse.

Think of all the mods we do to the bikes...some might not sit too well with the electrical system...

Also consider the vibration issue, any faulty lines, etc...

If a fuse or relay goes out over and over again, there is obviously a more serious problem...

My relays are fine so far and I hope they stay that way...if not, it's nice to have a few extras, no matter which brand they are. Only time will tell if the electrical system is faulty in any way...these things shouldn't be blowing under normal conditions regardless of which brand name they have on them...chances are that they're all made in the same factory anyway??

Then, by all means, run the ones you like. :gaah: I'm out of this thread.


.

burg650
07-19-2009, 12:44 AM
Still need the part numbers.

krb1945
07-19-2009, 06:15 AM
I also have an 09 roadster and I am wondering what the consensus is on the best part numbers to use for the spare relays. As of this date I've had no problems but I only have a few hundred miles on it. But my moto is "be prepared" especially if you are aware of a known failure item.

There are some real thinkers working the post on this thread and I know I appreciate the "heads up" information that is being posted.

Super information guys! :thumbup:

bone crusher
07-19-2009, 07:30 AM
I also have an 09 roadster and I am wondering what the consensus is on the best part numbers to use for the spare relays. As of this date I've had no problems but I only have a few hundred miles on it. But my moto is "be prepared" especially if you are aware of a known failure item.

There are some real thinkers working the post on this thread and I know I appreciate the "heads up" information that is being posted.

Super information guys! :thumbup:

You can go to Parry Performance online and order the OEM parts for the same price as you can get after-market brands...no concern with getting anything wrong...

bone crusher
07-19-2009, 07:33 AM
Then, by all means, run the ones you like. :gaah: I'm out of this thread.


.

ata,

Don't take your relays so seriously! We can always change them back and forth... :D

wyliec
07-19-2009, 07:33 AM
You can go to Parry Performance online and order the OEM parts for the same price as you can get after-market brands...no concern with getting anything wrong...

I did go to the site you suggested and the Tyco numbers don't show up. What p/n's did you use?

NancysToy
07-19-2009, 09:14 AM
I also have an 09 roadster and I am wondering what the consensus is on the best part numbers to use for the spare relays. As of this date I've had no problems but I only have a few hundred miles on it. But my moto is "be prepared" especially if you are aware of a known failure item.

There are some real thinkers working the post on this thread and I know I appreciate the "heads up" information that is being posted.

Super information guys! :thumbup:
Look at the first post in this thread and you will find the Duralast part number from AutoZone. Not rated the same as the special production Tyco (at least one of them) but seems to have worked well for those that used them, and wil most certainly work as a spare to get you home. Otherwise, go to your dealer and order the relays (Tyco) from them. Get a 25 amp fuse while you're at it, since they are scarce as hen's teeth elsewhere.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

bone crusher
07-19-2009, 09:30 AM
I did go to the site you suggested and the Tyco numbers don't show up. What p/n's did you use?


Product ID: 278002168
Product Name: RELAIS *RELAY
Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $8.99
--------------------------
Product ID: 710000740
Product Name: RELAIS *RELAY
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $30.14

bone crusher
07-19-2009, 09:32 AM
Look at the first post in this thread and you will find the Duralast part number from AutoZone. Not rated the same as the special production Tyco (at least one of them) but seems to have worked well for those that used them, and wil most certainly work as a spare to get you home. Otherwise, go to your dealer and order the relays (Tyco) from them. Get a 25 amp fuse while you're at it, since they are scarce as hen's teeth elsewhere.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

I've never looked for hen's teeth before...the beak is scary enough....don't even want to imagine those mean ole birds with teeth! :roflblack:

mcguire1511
07-19-2009, 04:50 PM
My blowing fuse's problem was fixed when I noticed three of the four relays on my '09 spyder had worked themselves loose. after reseating them...No more blown fuses. Got a spare from O'Rellies Atuo Part. They had two types, one (store Brand $8.00 1 year warranty) or another brand ,($18.00 3 year warranty) both exactly the same. so always ask for the store brand.

burg650
07-19-2009, 10:31 PM
bone crusher, so which one is the relay for the my 09 se5.

bjt
07-20-2009, 05:43 AM
Product ID: 278002168
Product Name: RELAIS *RELAY
Quantity: 3
Unit Price: $8.99


bone crusher, so which one is the relay for the my 09 se5.

The SE5 uses 4 of these relays. The SM5 uses 3 of them plus one of the other one that he listed.

bone crusher
07-20-2009, 01:42 PM
The SE5 uses 4 of these relays. The SM5 uses 3 of them plus one of the other one that he listed.

Thanks for getting that for me...beat me to the punch...I'm still fixated on Scotty's hens with teeth...:D

NancysToy
07-20-2009, 02:10 PM
Thanks for getting that for me...beat me to the punch...I'm still fixated on Scotty's hens with teeth...:D
I told you they were scarce! nojoke
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

krb1945
07-27-2009, 09:09 AM
Where is that 25 amp fuse you are referring to? I looked at the picture on this thead and I don't see it in that fuse box. Please point me in the right direction.

smokster
07-27-2009, 09:26 AM
Autoparts store is the way to go for sure!
I forgot I had ordered this relay from the dealership and while I was there this morning getting my exhaust problem fixed, they advised me the part was in. Cost oh, only $42 and some change!!
Told them to re-stock it, I would even pay the restock fee as I thought that was a tad bit outrageous on pricing.
What did you order?
I ordered from the dealer here in SO CA and paid 9.99 for each relay

krb1945
07-27-2009, 09:29 AM
09 SE5 has only 400 miles on it and all four relays were lose with No.2 main lose to the point of leaning forward about to totally disconnect.

08 SM5 has 2200 miles and all four relays were lose but not as bad as the SE5.

I installed a piece of foam in each cover to hold them in place. Cover is a little tight to install but the relays won't work lose again. If they do I'll fabricate a metal spring clamp to hold them firm.

I would suspect that if they are lose and arching and a sparking... well that might just be what is making them fail.

Just a thought.

captainryder
07-27-2009, 09:32 AM
I forgot to tell my story about relays. Before my big trip ( Parts 1,2,3 already posted) I was taking my niece out for a ride July 4th. We only rode about 10 miles, and when I returned to my house, I just throttled a little to get into the garage and the SE5 shuts down as if I hit the kill switch. I could not restart it.....

Besides the panic I had, ( I'm no mechanic) it was tommorrow that I was going to start this 14 day trip, it's a Saturday July 4th holiday, so everything is closed, etc.... You can see I was getting twisted up inside.

Well my bro-in-law and I started tearing off panels thinking its a loose wire. I opened the trunk and removed the fuse/relay cover and found one of the relays was a little loose, so I pulled it and plugged it back in, but no effect. Started pulling fuses... My wife was getting ready to blog on this site for immediate help.

Well I had bought two extra relays and decided to start replacing originals. I did not have a circuit tester, so I could not tell which ones were good or bad. So my bro-in law decided that if I would leave the key on, and we would plug each one of the relays in with power to the board that we would hear each one click if it was good. ( All three clicked when we plugged them in)

BUT FOR SOME REASON, AFTER ALL THREE OF THE ORIGINAL WERE TESTED THE ABOVE WAY, I DECIDED TO HIT THE START BUTTON. And guess what it started right up.

Have had no problems since. But what a scare!!!!! We've driven the 3300 miles on the trip, and never a wink, however I did check those relay connections a few time, after some pretty rough roads we travelled.

Question: why did the relay re-plugged after I found it loose not solve the problem, but when we re-plugged with power on and it clicked it started right up?

bjt
07-27-2009, 10:25 AM
Question: why did the relay re-plugged after I found it loose not solve the problem, but when we re-plugged with power on and it clicked it started right up?

Hard telling. Could be multiple reasons for this to happen.

NancysToy
07-28-2009, 06:20 AM
Where is that 25 amp fuse you are referring to? I looked at the picture on this thead and I don't see it in that fuse box. Please point me in the right direction.
25 amp is one of the maxi-fuses in the other box, under the seat.
-Scotty http://www.pmdawnonline.com/forum/images/smilies/velo.gif

spyder1969
09-14-2009, 09:10 PM
My Spyder finally blew a relay. Beautiful weather, itching for a spyder ride, waiting for it to warm up and I decided to check the hi beams; click, end of fun: the headlights went out, the messages started streaming; ABS FAULT, DPS FAULT, VSS FAULT, LIMP MODE. So I shop around for said relay; Advanced auto knows nothing, O'reilly Auto parts knows nothing, NAPA auto parts knows nothing, and the internet was not helping. Finally found cross reference at Delcity.com for Song Chuan and only 2.38 apiece, you just have to do 25.00 minimum order, so I get 11 of them.
Now when I installed it, my headlights are back but I still get fault codes. Do I have to do a battery cable disconnect to reset the fault codes? I do hope it is that simple. Help me my Spyder family!
Love ya'll!:2thumbs::chat:

spyder1969
09-14-2009, 09:26 PM
What is with the relays blowing? Are the electrical engineers at BRP rejects from the automobile industry? None of my automobiles has issues with fuses or relays blowing. Is BRP afraid to fire said incompetent electrical engineers or does part of the socialist country's doctrine mandate that employees cannot be fired? I know that is part of the problem in European socialist countries. I know Lamontster said BRP reads our forums, so I hope they read this. My Spyder just crossed 2000 miles by the way. And where do we get this 135.00 manual from; I want one. With all of the wonderful help we get from this site, we don't need one, I just want one. And I also called my dealer about the relay when I was looking for one here in Augusta, Ga; He has to order it also, didn't get the price though. You would think that a money maker like blown relays would fill the stock shelves. Love ya'll.:chat:

bjt
09-15-2009, 09:37 PM
Not everyone has troubles with the relays or the fuses. I've got 23,000 miles without burning out a relay and my wife has over 25,000 miles on her Spyder with the original relays.

BajaRon
05-02-2010, 09:16 PM
If you change the relay and it works that was the problem. ;)

Your wisdom is absolutely undeniable! :D

Questions
05-08-2010, 07:18 PM
LaMonster,
Why did you buy a spare relay?

Spyder508 - A true HOW 2 fan of yourz. Also, I'm currently stationed in DC. Will you be coming for Rumbling Thunder?

Questions
05-08-2010, 07:28 PM
Wanna sell a couple of yor spares...you guys got me worried:shocked:


My Spyder finally blew a relay. Beautiful weather, itching for a spyder ride, waiting for it to warm up and I decided to check the hi beams; click, end of fun: the headlights went out, the messages started streaming; ABS FAULT, DPS FAULT, VSS FAULT, LIMP MODE. So I shop around for said relay; Advanced auto knows nothing, O'reilly Auto parts knows nothing, NAPA auto parts knows nothing, and the internet was not helping. Finally found cross reference at Delcity.com for Song Chuan and only 2.38 apiece, you just have to do 25.00 minimum order, so I get 11 of them.
Now when I installed it, my headlights are back but I still get fault codes. Do I have to do a battery cable disconnect to reset the fault codes? I do hope it is that simple. Help me my Spyder family!
Love ya'll!:2thumbs::chat:

docdoru
05-08-2010, 07:36 PM
Wanna sell a couple of yor spares...you guys got me worried:shocked:
Depending on your RS model, you may want to have 1-2 relays with you. :doorag:

spydee owner
07-04-2010, 08:37 PM
You can order these relays for less than $6.00 each from a company called digikey based in Thief River Falls Mn. They will ship to your house and you can order and pay for them on line. I had one go that caused the DPS to quit working as well as the digital readout on the dash. total cost $22.00 inxlusinf shipping and tax (to ont canada). One relay at dealer is $29.00 taxes in.

SethO
07-07-2010, 12:53 AM
You can order these relays for less than $6.00 each from a company called digikey based in Thief River Falls Mn. They will ship to your house and you can order and pay for them on line. I had one go that caused the DPS to quit working as well as the digital readout on the dash. total cost $22.00 inxlusinf shipping and tax (to ont canada). One relay at dealer is $29.00 taxes in.


Just 60 miles northwest of Dirt Town, they make batteries and all sorts of stuff like that.

BajaRon
07-15-2010, 04:40 PM
I've never looked for hen's teeth before...the beak is scary enough....don't even want to imagine those mean ole birds with teeth! :roflblack:

I'm with you...what's up with these Hen's Teeth? Does it mean that Rooster Teeth are easy to come by? :dontknow:

Burntkyle
01-17-2011, 06:16 PM
If any of you Spyder owners need the Tyco Relay VJ28-95F24-S01. I have about 14,000 of them. $3.00 a piece. All are new. Tyco discontinued this relay in 2010, and I have all remaining stock. burntkyle@hotmail.com

JonGalt
04-27-2011, 02:17 PM
I need to stop reading threads for entertainment, I now fear relay problems & think I need some spare relays (just in case), Anyone know what relays the 2011 RT-S SE5 needs? I'll get some just to have, but maybe the engineers switched to better ones in 2010-2011?:roflblack:

3Willie
05-11-2011, 01:11 PM
:clap:Just received my order of relays from guy two threads above me(burntkyle@hotmail.com). Email from him said they were also available on EBay. Really good deal, so got some extras. You can not go wrong with $3 each. Ordered six with $5 for shipping for a total of $23. I could only get two Duralast ones for that price locally. Should have spares for a long time!:2thumbs:

JonGalt
05-11-2011, 02:14 PM
:clap:Just received my order of relays from guy two threads above me(burntkyle@hotmail.com). Email from him said they were also available on EBay. Really good deal, so got some extras. You can not go wrong with $3 each. Ordered six with $5 for shipping for a total of $23. I could only get two Duralast ones for that price locally. Should have spares for a long time!:2thumbs:

Are these compatible for all Spyders? I have a 2011 RT-S SE5 & what is the part#

3Willie
05-12-2011, 08:13 AM
The part number on the OEM and replacement relay is in the title above. I do not know if it will work on the RT models. I wrote down the number from the relays in my 2008 SE5 Spyder since I did not see specifics in the operators guide. I did ask if he carried the 30A breaker for the Spyder, but he did not. You may want to contact him to see if he has what you need.

JonGalt
05-12-2011, 08:36 AM
The part number on the OEM and replacement relay is in the title above. I do not know if it will work on the RT models. I wrote down the number from the relays in my 2008 SE5 Spyder since I did not see specifics in the operators guide. I did ask if he carried the 30A breaker for the Spyder, but he did not. You may want to contact him to see if he has what you need.

:joke:I had emailed him prior to posting on here and he told me to ask on here because he did not know. I'll check and see if they match your numbers. Thanks.

Hdrider337
04-24-2012, 09:55 PM
You can get the relays here also:

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18620 (http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18620)

Littlebadwolf
04-30-2012, 11:27 AM
Ok..my very first problem with my Spyder..Hoping to get some answers here. I just had the dealer install the HID light set that was on special here (Xenon)..When I picked it up from the dealer I started it normally and it accelerated up to 5,000-6,000 and kept climbing. I immediately shut it down and tried starting again and it started normally and I drove it home. The next morning I went to start the Spyder and it did the same thing, zoomed up to 5,000-7,000 again and I shut it down. After 10-20 attempts to start it again, it finally started normally and I headed for the dealer...had to stop for gas on the way and went to start it and same thing happended again, rev up to 7k, shut it off, tried to start it again normally...30-40 times maybe...got fed up and let it sit for about 15 minutes. It finally started and I got it to the dealer. When the dealer tried to start it it did the same thing, reved up to 7k, shut it down and tried starting again...This time it wouldn't start at all even after sitting for a while. I haven't noticed anybody else having a problem after installing the HIDS but I'm wondering if it could be the relays????? It's still at the dealership waiting to be checked out and they tell me I'm gonna have to pay for an hours labor to hook it up to BUDS and if something's wrong I'm gonna have to rely on the warranties and/or pay the labor rate to get it fixed...What's wrong with this picture?...I bring a Spyder that's running pefectly to have the HID installed by the dealer, it messes up and they want me to pay to troubleshoot thier problem...Any ideas/suggestions...Thanks...Larry

NancysToy
04-30-2012, 11:34 AM
Ok..my very first problem with my Spyder..Hoping to get some answers here. I just had the dealer install the HID light set that was on special here (Xenon)..When I picked it up from the dealer I started it normally and it accelerated up to 5,000-6,000 and kept climbing. I immediately shut it down and tried starting again and it started normally and I drove it home. The next morning I went to start the Spyder and it did the same thing, zoomed up to 5,000-7,000 again and I shut it down. After 10-20 attempts to start it again, it finally started normally and I headed for the dealer...had to stop for gas on the way and went to start it and same thing happended again, rev up to 7k, shut it off, tried to start it again normally...30-40 times maybe...got fed up and let it sit for about 15 minutes. It finally started and I got it to the dealer. When the dealer tried to start it it did the same thing, reved up to 7k, shut it down and tried starting again...This time it wouldn't start at all even after sitting for a while. I haven't noticed anybody else having a problem after installing the HIDS but I'm wondering if it could be the relays????? It's still at the dealership waiting to be checked out and they tell me I'm gonna have to pay for an hours labor to hook it up to BUDS and if something's wrong I'm gonna have to rely on the warranties and/or pay the labor rate to get it fixed...What's wrong with this picture?...I bring a Spyder that's running pefectly to have the HID installed by the dealer, it messes up and they want me to pay to troubleshoot thier problem...Any ideas/suggestions...Thanks...Larry
Move your ballasts and check for stray grounds. I think the ballasts have to be isolated from the frame. All other grounds must be real good. If that doesn't do it, some of the experts here may be able to help further. You are getting EFI interference to your electronics from the fields given off by the ballasts, may have ground/switching issues, and may also have voltage related issues as the ballasts make their intial draw in combination with the high Spyder draw at startup.

Littlebadwolf
04-30-2012, 12:15 PM
Thanks Scotty...You da man:thumbup:

NancysToy
04-30-2012, 12:23 PM
Thanks Scotty...You da man:thumbup:
I'm not da man unless it works. This is not my area of expertise, but I have seen a lot of ballast related issues onother equipment, and a few on HIDs. I hope you can solve it simply.