Threw two Codes

[farmerjim]

Just brought the bike out for the first time after a long winter's nap. She's been on a battery tender all winter and has been started and ran (though not on the road) several times. She started up great and after a short time the RPM's leveled out, then down the road. Got about a mile when the check engine light comes on and Limp mode then she died. Started back up ok, still a little rough, then back to my shop. Check codes and got P2279 and P0106. I'm not sure where to start looking. By the way, she's a 2012 RT A&C with 6,000 miles if that helps. Please help!!! :bowdown:

Farmer Jim
Feeling Nervous

[NancysToy]

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit/range performance

P2279 = Intake Air System leak

Sounds like you have a damaged vacuum hose...maybe heat, storage conditions, old age, or mice.

[farmerjim]

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit/range performance

P2279 = Intake Air System leak

Sounds like you have a damaged vacuum hose...maybe heat, storage conditions, old age, or mice.

Definitely not old age, could be mice but there were always cats in the shed. Do I need to take off all of the tupperware to check or where should I look first. Thanks for the reply.

[NancysToy]

The Tupperware needs to come off and possibly the airbox.

[nhoj]

Same thing happened to our RT last spring after storage. They seem to dry out over the winter.

You will have to remove the left side panels.

[farmerjim]

Ok, I've taken off all panels from both sides, looked everywhere for any sign of mice (None), and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. I have to admit though, I haven't a clue what to look for and where. When I start her up, the engine settles down to 1400 RPM, sounding fine and stays there until she heats up. That's when the check engine light comes on and she'll sputter and die if I don't give throttle. She starts up every time even after the check engine light comes on. Should I drain my gas tank? I've put in some Heet thinking water in the gas. Full gas tank though. Any ideas as to where else to look or what to try would be appreciated.

[Bob Denman]

You almost need to take those vacuum lines, and roll them between your fingers; in order to tfnd any damage in them... :shocked:

[farmerjim]

That's just it, Bob, I don't know what's what under there. I just drove around a big lot that I have and the check engine light would come on, go off for maybe 30 seconds then limp mode, then everything would go off again for another 30 seconds. I haven't drained the gas yet. Any ideas?? Guess I'll just have to try and find time to take her to the nearest dealer (100 miles). MAN!!! What a downer.

[RBS66]

That's just it, Bob, I don't know what's what under there. I just drove around a big lot that I have and the check engine light would come on, go off for maybe 30 seconds then limp mode, then everything would go off again for another 30 seconds. I haven't drained the gas yet. Any ideas?? Guess I'll just have to try and find time to take her to the nearest dealer (100 miles). MAN!!! What a downer.

WOW sounds strange hope you get it figured out ..

[NancysToy]

You don't need to drain the gas, you need to replace the vacuum hoses, plain and simple. If they aren't chewed they are likely just cracked...or even just loose at the MAP sensor end. Access is difficult, but the job needs to be done. The hoses in question run from the throttle body to the MAP sensor. You might also want to check the vacuum line attached to the purge valve.

[SteveMac]

Would anyone happen to have a pic or schematic? That might help Jim out. A pic is worth a thousand words as they say...

I wish upon a star that I could just hop on the Wing and ride down to his house to help him out, but right now, I don't even make a good doorstop in the condition I'm in.

Hang in there Jim! We will try to save a trip to the dealer. This is something you can DIY once you have an idea of where they are.

Hang in there buddy!

[nhoj]

Would anyone happen to have a pic or schematic? That might help Jim out.

The MAPS Vacuum hoses are accessed from the LEFT side. I forget if you have to remove the black acoustic panel under the left side too. The first picture is of the front hose, goes to the MAPS sensor from the throttle body. The 2nd hose is on the rear of the MAPS sensor and is much easier to get at.

Look closely at the hoses, the cracks may not be obvious. I think the codes you saw do indeed indicate a vacuum leak and that had been a problem for some in the past.

If you want to view other threads dealing with those two codes P2279 and P0106... scroll down to the bottom of this thread and click the 'View Cloud Tag' Link (lower left corner). Enter in either of your two codes P2279 or P0106 and the search will return others threads that have those TAGS added. I added the two codes to this thread.

John

[Gray Ghost]

I just replaced mine a few days ago. Of course I didn't think about taking photos until too late. I am posting three screenshots from the manual though. When you are looking at the throttle body area, you should be able to recognize the MAPS sensor from the picture. There is a vacuum hose running from under the sensor plug area to the right as shown on the first photo (by red line). The second is taken from underneath the MAPS and you can see the tube running to the left also. The third photo shows how the two tabs should be oriented at installation.

I removed the MAPS from the throttle body to get to the tubes. I replaced mine with silicon hose rather than the OEM part. Make sure, if you are cutting replacement hoses to make them the same length as the original. (hose is 3mm ID). I did have to disconnect some of the wiring in the area to get room to get the left side hose off (used bent needlenose pliers to get it off and on). Just make sure that you mark any connectors to ensure you get them all replaced.

The job wasn't really difficult, just have to work in tight space just a bit on that left side.

[SteveMac]

You guys rock. :bowdown:

Thanks a bunch!

[Bob Denman]

There was a thread kicking around, that mentioned replacing those lines with ones made from silicone... :thumbup:

[SpyderDon65]

It must be a Spyder bug or virus :spyder:that is going around or maybe just a quality problem :opps:. The rear hose looked OK but was loose at the MAP connection. The front hose was a disaster. Not only did it break off when trying to remove it but it pulled the hose connector out of the throttle body :yikes:when trying to get the remainder of the hose off. If you think it is hard to replace the front hose, try getting the hose connector back in :cus:. I was unable to get any proper sized silicon hose so I used windshield washer rubber hose but covered it with a little larger silicone hose for protection that I had in stock. Hopefully this will make them last a little longer. It must have worked OK because I put a quick 50 miles on after supper with no problems :yes:. 88204

[NZSpyderRyder]

I'm no expert, but my son works in the rubber industry and he reckons from what he can see from the photo's that a lot of this damage to the vacuum hoses has been caused by excessive heat or the quality of the rubber used is very poor. This shouldn't happen to a pipe that is just a few years old under normal conditions.
just saying.

[Dan McNally]

I'm no expert, but my son works in the rubber industry and he reckons from what he can see from the photo's that a lot of this damage to the vacuum hoses has been caused by excessive heat or the quality of the rubber used is very poor. This shouldn't happen to a pipe that is just a few years old under normal conditions.
just saying.
Amen to that! My 2013 LTD was only nine months old with under 3,500 miles when one of those hoses decided to die on an interstate highway in traffic . . . fortunately, I had just turned in to a rest area . . . and as soon as I got off the throttle, the hose cracked and I stalled. Sure glad it happened where it did or I might not be here to discuss it!